A magical breath for a playful demonstration, in a balance which emerges at the same time as an evolution which is shaped by its history. Here is a true designer, and who will remain so, John Galliano, the emperor of couture seduces us. Spotlight on clothing, which is not just a consumer product valid for one season, but which is a story, a life, an evolution, and above all a redemption.

A collection which is the most beautiful, the most snobbish, the most intellectual, the most radical, the most influential, the most wearable too, but above all the most desirable… A radicality which recalls that of the writer Jack Kerouac, and ultimately, the ex-fashion pariah who goes to Margiela for a transplant which is taken, leaving in the process the questions left hanging by these gentlemen of the family, of the fashion institutions.

A fan of recovery, DIY and recycling, well before his time, we remember his collection at Dior and the terribly ingenious garbage bags. It’s bluffing, often astonishing, and there is humor, Dadaism in the diversions, the second-hand clothing becomes “Arty”, poetic too, imbued with experience and re-mastering with a mastery of technique which reveals itself under our eyes.

John plays the fake chicos mixed with the concept of pauperism, but also deliberately theatrical. A middle finger to the world of fashion which wants to be much more classic and conformist, sometimes making it Céline and a few eccentricities could suggest a snub, to an environment stuck in their certainty. An invitation to travel to reinvent the world of Toledo, the very world that removed him from the media scene rather than having him treated. Galliano is undoubtedly one of the creators closest to the master of Granville, the raw poetry that sends silliness flying.

FM

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