It was indeed deeply moving and uplifting as a demonstration of unity, diversity, dignity, and defiance that Rick Owens described his spring 2025 men’s show as being like watching a biblical epic by Cecil B. DeMille.

He cast real people of all shapes and sizes in his women’s show on Thursday, culled from fashion schools and his own company. Facial tattoos and piercings seemed to be preferred.

The spectacle felt more solemn and downbeat, a mood fed by Wagner’s dramatic, throbbing “Liebestod”, the blackout contact lenses and the dark-hearted fashions, many of them black with Owens’ familiar ramrod or smokestack shoulders, fishtail skirts and Frankenstein-esque boots.

In clumps, his 120 models strutted out in hooded capes, biker leathers, snug bomber jackets, and laddered knits.