Demna should silence the critics who complain that he has no new strings to his bow with his spring 2025 collection for Balenciaga, which opened with a series of underwear looks in his own way: embroidered, encrusted, or jacquard-knitted garters, bras, and stockings over flesh-colored bodysuits.

As a result of these looks, he falls squarely within the lingerie trend sweeping European runways, but with a hardcore twist.

“I wanted something sensual and almost erotic, not boudoir,” he said after the show, wearing a ripped hoodie. “I’ve never really shown it, but it’s always been part of who I am as a designer.” »

Underwear turned into flared jeans just below the pockets, trousers legs anchored by high boots (no suspenders were needed) and silky secretary dresses, demure in the front but open in the back to reveal loose corset lacing.

A sneaky, porno chic vibe permeated the show, with pants falling like a scarf or a mask like the woman in the movie Belle de jour. It’s better than plastic surgery if you can’t afford a full-face visor tested by Balenciaga Couture.