Moschino has appointed Adrian Appiolaza as creative director. The Argentinian designer will lead the house’s women’s, men’s and accessories collections, succeeding Davide Renne, who died prematurely last November a few months after being appointed head of style at Moschino.

Adrian Appiolaza left Buenos Aires, where he grew up, in his early twenties to move to London, where he graduated from Central Saint Martins fashion school. On leaving school in 2002, he made his debut at Chloé, before transferring to Miu Miu four years later.

As Gwendoline Christie finished her circuit in her kinky fit-and-flare latex dress, the photographers howled “Bravo” and filmmaker Baz Luhrmann joined the audience in stomping his feet. Every outfit was a marvel of imagination and artisanal craft. Mix between New look, and French cancan dancers, but also the style of the court of Catherine de Medicis.

There were sheer bias-cut dresses embellished with silvery embroidery, or dense accumulation of godets; rumpled street-urchin suits nipped and tucked for maximum glamour, and gauzy siren gowns that showed off the models’ enhanced Jessica Rabbit figures like the cartoom.

At the heart of the luxury goods and perfume industry, where every detail counts and design is king, a singular and enigmatic figure emerges: a bottle designer like Serge Mansau and Pierre Dinand in their day. But not just any designer: this one doesn’t work for the big name brands, but rather for some completely unlikely ones. Here’s a look at an artist who’s going against the grain.

While the world of fashion and luxury is dominated by the big houses of the Lord of Arnault and the Prince of Venice, this designer deliberately chooses to stray from the beaten track to make a name for himself. Why design bottles for Chanel, Dior or Gucci when you can design “Ce n’est pas drôle c’est Marrant” for Isabelle, “A mon Aix” for Jacquemus, or “un Ami qui vous veut du bien” for AMI perfume?

He challenges norms and expectations, questions established values and offers a subtle but powerful critique of the excessive superficiality that often characterises the world of luxury and the lack of humour, a powerful factor in memorisation. His approach provokes conversation, fuels social media and challenges established conventions. Ultimately, this designer manages to kick-start even the very universe he deliberately chooses to defy.