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A NEW CEO IN STELLA
Amandine Ohayon has been appointed CEO of Stella McCartney. She will be based in London and will replace Gabriele Maggio, who joined the company four years ago and will leave next month to pursue other opportunities, according to an anonymous source he will join the LVMH group.
Amandine was most recently CEO of Pronovias and has spent much of her career in the beauty industry, working with brands such as YSL Beauty and Armani Beauty.
In her new role at Stella McCartney, she will help elevate the house and accelerate its development based on its long-standing commitment to sustainable fashion, with a very corporate message.
WOULD THE LORD LEAVE THE SHIP?
Mansvelt succeeds Antoine Arnault, Bernard Arnault’s eldest son, who has held the position since 2012 and will now remain as Chairman of Berluti, Chairman of Loro Piana, and in charge of Image and Environment for LVMH.
Arnault said: “I am very happy and quite emotional to welcome Jean-Marc as the new CEO of Berluti, building on the values of elegance, audacity and unique “savoir-faire”.
SAKS FIFTH AVENUE J’ADIOR
Dior’s Carousel of Dreams at Saks marks the retailer’s first exclusive collaboration with a luxury fashion house for its annual holiday initiative. The largest acquisition in Saks history took 10 months of planning by 100 artisans and involved designing and manufacturing objects in Italy for the Saks building and flying them to New York, hello eco planet.
Saks’ annual holiday celebration, which begins with its magnificent light show on Fifth Avenue, is one of the most anticipated, spectacular and enchanting in the world.
Marc Metrick, CEO of Saks, and Delphine Arnault, president and CEO of Dior, were introduced Monday evening at the unveiling in front of the flagship product.
THAILAND’S LUXURY
One of Thailand’s leading world-class hotels has redefined its game-changing properties and co-created spaces with retailers to reinforce its leadership in the luxury market. For today’s luxury businesses, people of all ages and walks of life must be able to indulge in many forms of indulgence.LOUBOUTIN AND KNOCK-OFF
Earlier this week, Meta and Christian Louboutin filed a lawsuit against a Mexican individual accused of running a counterfeiting operation.
On Thursday, Meta and Louboutin filed a lawsuit in the Northern District of California alleging Cesar Octavio Guerrero Alejo violated Meta’s terms of service and Instagram’s terms of use and infringed Christian Louboutin’s intellectual property rights by using Facebook and Instagram accounts to promote counterfeit Christian Louboutin products.
In violation of Meta’s terms, Cesar Octavio Guerrero Alejo has operated an online business trafficking in counterfeit goods, including fake Louboutin-branded shoes, handbags, and accessories, starting in June 2020 and continuing until May 2023.
According to the lawsuit, Alejo created and maintained at least 44 Facebook user accounts from May 3, 2010, to Jan. 11, 2023, as well as 32 Instagram accounts from Oct. 15, 2015, to Dec. 28, 2022. Continue reading
KIM KARDASHIAN NAMED MEN OF THE YEAR
The reality TV star turned into a businesswoman has been selected in GQ magazine’s prestigious “Tycoon of the Year” category.
TIFFANY AND COTTIN
Introducing Tiffany Co.’s latest ambassador Camille Cottin at the Opéra Garnier. On Wednesday, the French jeweler revealed the actress’ new role, just weeks after she was photographed snatching a Tiffany Co. ring from the Paris landmark’s monumental tarp. Continue reading
FIVE MORE TIME FOR VUITTON
Nicolas Ghesquière’s contract at Louis Vuitton has been extended for another five years, a sign of continuity within the world’s largest luxury brand. This is the designer’s 10th anniversary as artistic director of the brand’s women’s collection, so the one also called after Marc Jacob remains at Vuitton.
FASHION RETAIL
The Fashion brands accounted for more than 40 percent of retail floor space leased across Europe. Other brands fast opening doors across the region include the French down-jacket retailer JOTT (Just Over the Top) and the U.S. sportswear retailer Lids.
Fashion also accounted for the largest share of leases for bigger spaces larger than 11,000 square feet in the period. While core retail sectors continue to dominate transactional activity, emerging trends are bringing new brands into the marketplace.
Health and beauty operators, particularly premium brands, were also highly acquisitive in the first half of 2023 with the volume of space transacted almost twice that of the corresponding period last year. Jo Malone, Aesop, Freshly Cosmetics, MAC and Space NK have been particularly active.
ANNE FONTAINE IN MADISON
Thirty years after starting her company, Anne Fontaine was understandably reflective before Thursday night’s launch party for her Madison Avenue store.
While guests mingled in the Gabriel Kowalski-designed space, the designer and her cofounder husband Ari Zlotkin detailed future plans and one life-changing experience that left an indelible imprint on Fontaine.
Some of last year’s gains were due to opening a Monaco store, relocating stores in Florence and Zurich and a revival in sales in the company’s Paris flagship, he added, adding that the number of high-end travelers from Russia, China and the Middle East have declined in Europe, due to ongoing military and political conflicts, including the Israel-Hamas war.
BURBERRY A BAR IN NEW YORK
Burberry is taking its Streets to New York, opening the Knight Bar, a temporary takeover of Temple Bar in NoHo, and recreating a small corner of London.
For seven days, from Friday to Nov. 16, the bar will be decorated in a new Burberry red check and serve a special menu curated by Norman’s, the North London café famous for its English muffins, scrambled eggs, sausages, battered fish and hash browns. Continue reading
JORG G BUCHERER DEAD AT 87
Jörg Gerold Bucherer, the chairman and third generation of the now Rolex-owned watch and jewelry retailer Bucherer, died on Monday at the age of 87.
A grandson of watchmaker Carl-Friedrich Bucherer, who opened a shop in Lucerne, Switzerland, in 1888, distributing his own designs before launching his own brand in 2001, followed by timepieces from others.
In the 1920s, Carl Eduard and Ernst joined the business, and Ernst struck a deal with Rolex founder Hans Wilsdorf to distribute the brand.
The son of Carl Eduard Bucherer, Jörg Bucherer took over the Switzerland-based business in 1977, expanding it to Austria in the following years then Germany in the 90s. Continue reading
FASHION AWARDS 2023
Last night, the fashion industry’s power players and their celebrity guests mingled to celebrate the honorees and winners of the 2023 CFDA Fashion Awards. Among the VIP guests were Serena Williams, Kim Kardashian, Gwyneth Paltrow, Anne Hathaway, Demi Moore, and many others…
In addition to caviar and broccoli sticks, glasses of champagne were passed around; the museum’s animal exhibits stayed illuminated, giving the big night of American fashion a rather eccentric backdrop, since animals were present in the ballroom.
Fashion icon Serena Williams’ winner, more expensive in fabric than the Diplodosore, was designed by Thom Browne, the new CFDA president.
Paltrow was dressed in Goop’s G Label to receive her Innovation Award. “It’s very validating,” Paltrow said of being honored by the CFDA.
DURAN LANTIK 2024
BEAUTY KERING RICHEMONT AND OTHERS
Richemont is building a Laboratoire de Haute Parfumerie and Kering is taking beauty in-house. Building a business in this industry isn’t easy, and there is no one-size-fits-all approach. There are four main reasons why beauty is a lure today: growth, resilience, desirability, and margins.
Fragrance and cosmetics are a big, fast-developing business, with the category generating sales last year of approximately $430 billion. Whereas the fashion business, with its discretionary categories, has become more difficult, beauty is part of a daily routine, and people will keep buying beauty.
In addition to its frequency of use, beauty has a high perceived value. Despite difficult economic times, people continue to buy it because they are pleased with the value. As with handbags, beauty’s margins are among the highest in luxury.
Kering seems to be tearing a page out of the LVMH playbook by creating multiple avenues into the brands, and potentially spreading their marketing budgets across all the fragrance brands. Funny NO? Who will Kering include in its basket of perfumes?
A.I IN FASHION
Artificial Intelligence does not stop its expansion, and in fashion, the word intelligence is certainly badly used: creation of images, writing of texts, generation of music… This is a simple reuse of existing or real artistic creations. The question divides the profession and raises questions about the future of creators who are now in dire straits.
The fields of intervention of AI in the image sector are expanding more and more every day. It is possible to create your logo, your visual identity, your photographs and videos like “Jacques muse-muse”, to manipulate the consumer. The promise is to generate the design with little effort, which helps many designers like Rous-tintin and many others who do not know how to draw or make a pattern or dress worthy of the name with their hands.
Generative AI works on the principle of “machine learning”; technology based on experience acquired through the digestion of content from web databases. Thus, many artists are worried about the use of works in AI databases, because, in fact, many images have been retrieved from the internet for AI training and used without permission. consent of their Rights Holders. The lack of legal framework for the exploitation of these bases is a subject at the heart of numerous debates. Continue reading
TAPESTRY PLAY AGAINST LVMH
Tapestry, Inc. is an American multinational luxury fashion holding company. It is based in New York City and is the parent company of three major brands.
Tapestry Inc. has agreed to purchase Capri Holdings. Capri, owner of Michael Kors, Versace, and Jimmy Choo, is expected to be valued at $8.5 billion after the acquisition. The company’s shares are purchased for $57 each. The LVMH garden will be endangered by this new luxury group.
The six brands now owned by the two companies generate more than $12 billion in annual sales.
We are excited to own these brands and maximize their value. We think we’re a good landlord, and we have a lot to offer.”, says Roe.
ZARA WILL SAVE THE PLANET
Zara parent company Inditex has committed to purchasing €70 million worth of textile-to-textile recycled polyester material from Ambercycle. By launching items 50% made with the Zara Athleticz range, the brand’s technical sportswear range for men is saving the planet.
A fundraising of $21.6 million in January 2022, with other fast fashion players, including H&M, Jack; Jones and Vero Moda, parent company Bestseller, and Zalando, as well as investment funds. Inditex also owns, among others, the brands Berhska, Massimo Dutti and Pull&Bear.
This action will help the group achieve its nebulous objective of using 25% of its textile fibers from new generation materials by 2030. Zara dressed us in designer copies, now you will also be dressed with recycled materials with prices which would always be higher. Welcome to the world of Fast Fashion. But this is the result of the appearance of the giant Shein on the market.
KERING SLOW DOWN
According to Kering’s third quarter sales figures, the group’s turnover fell by 13% at published exchange rates and by 9% on an underlying basis, to 4.46 billion euros.
Kering’s revenue is in line with analysts’ estimates, most of whom had already lowered their expectations for the quarter and their stock price targets.
Gucci, Kering’s largest brand, reported revenue of €2.22 billion, down 14% on a reported basis and 7% on an underlying basis. Bottega fell 13 percent and Yves Saint Laurent 16 percent.
François-Henri Pinault, said that beyond the difficult macroeconomic conditions and the slowdown in demand in the luxury industry, “our third quarter turnover reflects the impact of our decision to further raise our brands and our distribution”.
“Managing our homes in the current market environment and regaining our position and influence” with the organization put in place by Kering in July. Following the acquisition of Creed last week, one of the world’s most distinguished fine fragrance houses has joined our family, propelling our beauty ambitions.