DIOR A COURT DRESS

Iroquois haircuts, also known as Mohawk, are a bold and distinctive hairstyle.  ‘Yes, it’s a cross between a punk and a monk disguised as a hedgehog, the Iroquois, this haircut could have been a symbol of war status, a message to the Lord of luxury the big Bernard, perhaps!

But these dresses are to be found in the collections of many museums around the world. They have a specific name, they were called court dresses, or corpse dresses, according to the ceremonial dress of the European courts of the 18th century, they symbolised social rank, wealth and power, and that hasn’t changed much.

It was Louis XIV, the Sun King, who contributed to its design around 1680. It consisted of a rigid whalebone bodice laced at the back, a crinoline skirt and separate sleeves. It also included a train worn either at the waist or falling from the shoulders, but the Maria prefers without a train to admire the world origin of ‘courbet’, a visit under the girls’ dresses, a must.

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JACQUEMUS THE DIVINE FINGER

Under your fingers, an infinite dance where polka-dot fabrics whisper of life, and the light circles of shy stars sown on the fabric in a limpid ballet come to light. I’m talking about a day tinged with light, dresses floating in the spring air, and scarves caressing the proud nape of the neck, with the gentle audacity of a sweet dream. Am I at Jacquemus? Yes, you are, but when it’s good, it’s good, and in this case, we’ve hit the nail on the head.

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RICK OWENS QUAY OF THE MISTS

Bowie’s anthem ‘Heroes’ rings out over dramatic high-collared coats and supernatural silhouettes in front of the emerging Eiffel Tower. ‘La dame de faire’ means lady to do… is back in a haze, where a silhouette appears in this tender winter morning.

Rick’s muses walk to embrace an ephemeral dream, a non-existent muslin veil blowing over laceless fabrics. Their footsteps echo on the cobblestones of the Trocadero Palace, and beneath the greyness, the outfits seem to dance in a mystery woven of light and shadow. And when the mist stretches out like a silky thread from a nebulous sky, it often draws perfect folds.

On the catwalk, nature scrolls by, calm and stylish. Each drop of creation hangs like a pearl at the end of a penis, dressing the next dawn in eternal grace. This is Owens’ creation, newness in continuity. Some people think that life is a ‘fashion’ sentence, others know it, but don’t think about it.

FM

KIM JONES

Kim Jones, under a black tent, like the sadness of the world, with a white staircase as a backdrop, Potemkin staircase style, a stripped-down décor to better highlight the fabrics and the construction of the fundamentals that distinguish the luxury of clothes as opposed to those of Zara. From a distance, looks are uncluttered, monochrome, sober at first glance, like this monastic black coat worn with a Yamamoto-style long skirt – the Catholicism is back. But if you zoomed in on the details, which even the front row had trouble seeing, you could spot details like these glass beads scattered like raindrops on the shoulders of a navy blue suit, the tears of luxury perhaps!

Diving into the archives makes sense at a time when many designers are redoubling their efforts to win back luxury consumers disappointed by the poverty of creations, because high-end basics ranging from €800 t-shirts to €4,500 coats are no longer in vogue, and at these prices, they’d better please. That’s probably why the more streamlined designs are given a touch of originality, often drawn from the women’s fashion lexicon of the old haute couture school.

In the 18th century, it was not uncommon to see fashionable men wearing brightly coloured silk damask coats. Jones revitalized this idea with belted kimono jackets and a pink satin robe embroidered with a motif borrowed at the Pondicherry dress from Christian Dior collection 1948.
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MARIA NO COUNTRY FOR OLD LADIES

Even if the lord forbids his employees to speak to certain press organs, information continues to leak like the waters of Lake Victoria Falls. Information swells like a balloon. Maria Grazia is allegedly in trouble with the group, and her replacement is obviously imminent. After almost 10 years of reinterpretation, no one can take her seriously any more, such is her commitment to the subtle feminine poetry of the house.

She never had the thrill that art provokes in a creator, the emotion of the found subject, and of the scene that takes shape in the intoxication of creation, with a flat encephalogram of originality. A victimized, conflicted feminist who believes that men dominate women, but where would she get such an idea, knowing only nymphs?
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ARMANI SEDUCTIVE SHOW

Giorgio Armani titled his collection “Seductive” with soft fabrics galore, including crushed velvet for pants, metallic touches in knits and generous animal prints on shoes, and little fur jackets.

The result was a strong and convincing show, perhaps a little flashier than usual, but proof that the master of Milanese fashion still has guts and new things to say at 90.

VUITTON HOMME 2025 AND GOOFI

Pharrell Williams, standing next to his longtime friend Nigo, two of the most influential tastemakers in streetwear, from the launch of their Billionaire Boys Club brand to their first eyewear design for Vuitton in 2004, to ongoing projects such as Nigo’s Human Made brand and Williams’ auction platform Joopiter, nigo and Williams to destroy Louis Vuitton.

Only at the top of the Louvre’s luxury pyramid, Nigo, “who means Goofi” in French, 54, took over the helm of Kenzo in 2021, and Williams, 51, was named artistic director of menswear at Vuitton in 2023, both young designers.

The collection they unveiled Tuesday in a mirror box in the courtyard of the Louvre, through a clothing vault filled with archive models, for a collection sprinkled with references and winks to the past, for a Vuitton men’s fashion that has no history!

A study varsity jacket that Williams never made, cherry blossom pink and leopard-print jeans, Williams’ bubblegum aesthetic, pink and the new black.

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PHILIPPE PLEIN 2025

He began his career designing dog beds and will end up producing clothes for bitches. The 39-year-old Bavarian is worth millions thanks to his three clothing lines, and his house is worth at least 800 million euros. A maximalist style for this son of a doctor who doesn’t bother with codes of good taste, but he knows all about the fall of the “rêne”.

The designer likes not only rhetorical questions, but also provocation, confidences about the business of the rich and powerful, and ‘saying out loud what everyone else is thinking down low.

I like iconoclastic rebels, which is perhaps why I’m sympathetic towards him. But I never forget that my son is Franco-German too. In the cosseted world of luxury, this designer stands out, and so far he’s succeeded, because truth is always a winning bet in the long term.

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PIERRE LOUIS MASCIA 2025

For fall 2025, Pierre-Louis Mascia stayed true to his approach to fashion, reinventing his colorful style without straying from following his North Star, he said backstage before his first coed runway show in Milan on Friday.

LOST HIGHWAY FOR LYNCH’S

It was a shock to learn of David Lynch’s death and to realise that there would be no more films from him. A filmmaker who left a profound mark on the history of cinema, from ‘Eraserhead’ to ‘Mulholland Drive’, via ‘Blue Velvet’, ‘Sailor et Lula’ and the world of ‘Twin Peaks’.

Elephant Man, his second feature film in black and white, was David Lynch’s crowning achievement. Fascinated by deformity, the young director brought to life the story of Joseph Merrick, a British man at the end of the 19th century suffering from a deforming disease. The man with the monstrous morphology became a freak show throughout the country.

Last August, after an interview with Sight & Sound magazine in which he revealed that he was suffering from the consequences of years of smoking.

PROENZA SCHOULER EXIT

Proenza Schouler founders Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez, who are stepping down as creative directors of the brand they founded in 2002.

Their exit is effective Jan. 31 They are widely expected to succeed Jonathan Anderson at the creative helm of Spanish luxury house Loewe, owned by LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, clearing the way for Anderson to eventually take up a creative role at Dior, as has been reported.

The Proenza Schouler duo have long been on the radar of top European fashion houses. Valentino Fashion Group took a stake in Proenza Schouler in 2007. Four years later, a group of backers led by John Howard and Andrew Rosen bought most of Valentino’s position.

Then in 2018, Mudrick Capital Management led the designers’ buyback of their company. According to sources, LVMH has held discussions with McCollough and Hernandez over the years about joining one of its marquee fashion houses, which include Dior, Louis Vuitton, Givenchy and Fendi.

EMILIA PEREZ

I am not a film critic, and yet, after last night’s shock, I am going to tell you about Jacques Audiard latest nuggets that will change French cinema and bring it, like the New Wave in its time, into another dimension. The film “Emilia Perez” stands out for the complexity of its plot, centered on the personal transformation of its protagonist. The film explores in depth the journey of “Manitas Del Monte”, a cartel leader who has aspired to become a woman since childhood, and who, with the help of her lawyer Rita, begins a transition to become Emilia.

This transformation is much more than a simple physical change; it represents a quest for identity and redemption. Manitas, played by Karla Sofía Gascón, must navigate the emotional and social challenges of her transition, while facing the consequences of her criminal past.

The film explores themes such as self-acceptance, overcoming prejudice and finding inner peace. But the complexity of the plot also lies in the relationship between Emilia and Rita, played by Zoe Saldana. Their dynamic evolves over the course of the film, from a professional relationship to a deep friendship, marked by understanding and mutual support. This relationship is a central pillar of the story, illustrating how empathy and solidarity can help overcome personal obstacles. The subject it addresses: can we become a better soul by changing sex? Is redemption possible?

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DOLCE & GABBANA IN PARIS

Bringing together for the first time the luxury fashion house’s unique creations, ‘From the Heart to the Hand: Dolce&Gabbana’ is an open love letter to Italian culture, the constant source of inspiration for Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana. The exhibition retraces the aesthetic itinerary of their creations, first worn in their hearts, then handcrafted in their workshops.

CHINA NIBBLING THE FRENCH LUXURY

Suggesting investor appetite remains strong for unique luxury properties, Chinese fashion conglomerate Youngor Group has acquired 100 percent of French childrenswear brand Bonpoint from private investment firm EPI.
It is understood Bonpoint attracted several unsolicited offers, and Youngor outmaneuvered other potential suitors by touting its retail, Shein is suppose to be sad.

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SWAROVSKI YEARS OF JOY

In honor of the Year of the Snake, Swarovski has revealed its latest Lunar New Year collection, “130 Years of Joy,” marking the brand’s 130th anniversary celebrations. A variety of symbolic designs highlight Swarovski’s craftsmanship and creativity in this collection, which combines tradition with modernity.

At the heart of the collection is the Swarovski Swan. For this milestone year, the swan is reimagined in a new design that combines it with its mirror image, their necks intertwined.In pieces such as a gold-tone pendant featuring one gold-tone and one rhodium-plated swan, both adorned with shimmering Swarovski Zirconia pavé, this design is demonstrated.

I am writing this article because when I went to the store with my friend’s ring to buy her a new one, seeing that the one I had brought was slightly damaged she exchanged it for a new one.

TAISNE RIOCOUR AT THE TOP OF THE SUBLIME

This is a sparkling journey in the heart of the Côte des Bars, a day through the enchantment of the setting sun on the vineyards. There is the pleasure palace with its voluptuousness of the superfluous and the fantasy, taking us to the heart of the medieval and finishing on the hill of the Biodynamic.

In France, there are sometime chapels which, without noise, export the image of these in all their greatness, like a kind of abstract goddess escaping from a bottle after a light explosion, like Bacchus and the lord of the wine. So here is Les Riceys in the Côte des Bars with its 866 hectares of vineyards, and a commune that has the largest wine-growing area in the whole of Champagne.

Like Helios, Pierre welcomes us with his brotherhood, watching over the pleasure of the others. Coco Chanel said about champagne: “I only drink champagne on two occasions. When I am in love and when I am not. Here, the family produces nectar that helps to amaze the taste buds, but above all, they are passionate. The land of Ricey goes from the mystical to the divine with Pierre, it’s amazing, but also overwhelming. A historian’s concept, you may ask? No, I was thinking more of a network of links that governs a family for a set of poles that found the slopes of the heart of others.

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BETWEEN TRADITION AND MODERNITY

As everyone knows, I often visit young designers, and when I saw a jacket with a fabric that looked more like a Napoleonic Guard ceremonial set, I pointed this out to the designer: ‘I like this bomber with these fabrics from the 18ᵉ century to the 19ᵉ because it gives the buyer something to think about. Indeed, it is always reassuring to think that, in a garment, there is a bit of history from the past.’ The designer looked at me with an interested expression, because in fact she hadn’t thought about it, she’d done it instinctively, as artists often have this instinctive vision of the world of the future. It is no doubt commonplace to observe that modernity gives tradition a bye, and to say that the modern is the era of the new or of renewal; it is a little less so to explore this assertion in greater depth and to grasp the twofold gesture that constitutes its substance.

The new of modernity to dismiss the old, for a gesture of rupture, a caesura without appeal. But in the same way that Lord Arnault said to Steve Jobs: ‘You have the technology of the moment, while I am selling the heritage of France’. Modernity begins when it reflects on its separation from the previous world and culture. The thread of tradition is broken, and supposedly cannot be renewed, but as the sentimental man that I am knows, we always need a bit of the past to appreciate the future, or to hate it. Continue reading

A WOMAN AT THE HEAD OF FASHION

Finally a woman at the head of fashion (A hidden message for French organisations.). The British Fashion Council has appointed Laura Weir as its new chief executive, succeeding Caroline Rush. Ms Weir, currently executive creative director at Selfridges, will take up the role on 28 April.

Laura said she would work with designers, industry partners and government bodies to advance the organisation’s mission to champion British fashion through programmes that support creative talent.