A HOTELKEEPER FOR PERFUME

LVMH Mot Hennessy Louis Vuitton’s Perfumes and Cosmetics division has appointed Stephane Rinderknech chairman and CEO. Stéphane Rinderknech joined L’Oréal in 2001 in the United States within Travel Retail.

He oversees the group’s 15 beauty brands, grouped under Parfums Christian Dior, Guerlain, LVMH Fragrance Brands, and Kendo. Rinderknech also leads LVMH Hospitality Excellence, which includes Hôtels Cheval Blanc and Belmond Hotels. He remains a member of the group’s executive committee as well.

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BALENCIAGA BACK IN STYLE

In love with black, purity and cuts, the unpredictability is a substantial element of the dissymmetrical creation. It creates an effect of surprise favorable to the eye, and the ignorance of the public is an asset in the hands of the Georgian designer.

To this factor is added the anxiety of creating by the uncertainty of a non-repetition of acts, the anxiety is further increased when the designer immerses us in his structures and the memory of the mud and water of his last collection.

Sunday’s fashion show at the Carrousel du Louvre, the meeting place par excellence of the old school, where Jacques Mouclier wanted, in his time, to gather the whole profession in view of the traffic problems to come, but visionaries are never recognized in their time. The show went off without a hitch, as minimalist as possible with rows of black chairs in a long room lined with white canvas, a tool that workshops like for their test canvases.

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COPERNI TOO ROBOT TO BE REAL

Coperni designers Sebastien Meyer and Arnaud Vaillant sought to create more impactful images by sending robot dogs down the runway, which led to a confrontation between model Rianne Van Rompaey and a quadruped that created a palpable sense of unease. After the plastic painting on mannequin a robot that undresses the mannequins.

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DRIES VAN NOTEN PARIS 2023

Intimacy. That’s what inspired Dries Van Noten’s fall 2023 women’s collection, which was dedicated to the love of clothes and cultivating relationships.Van Noten elevated dressmaker and mending details to the stage of Le Dôme de Paris (Palais des arts). Porte de versailles.

Some of the classics had special touches, such as a trench coat with gold paint rolled around the waist, as if it had been embellished by hand.

There were also feminine, lingerie-inspired pieces that contrasted with the masculine tailoring, including slipdresses embroidered with French lace or strapped with old necklaces, organza layered skirts with raw edges, and dusters with subtle floral prints over bra tops.

“We wanted pieces to look antique but not dusty,” he said, noting that a gold lamé floral was adopted from an archival piece found in a mill in Como, and another fabric was Continue reading

SCHIAPARELLI PARIS 2023

The Paris calendar is jam-packed with shows this season, so our backstage spy reporter will have more shows to cover, including big names like Christian Dior, Loewe and Givenchy as well as newcomers like Paco Rabanne and Y/Project. Daniel Roseberry’s Schiaparelli show is always a viral hit, and this season he’ll show ready-to-wear for the house for the first time. Wise very wise…

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PARIS FASHION GUERILLA

As K-pop stars take over the front rows and crowds of fans follow in the streets, as well as guerrilla invitations aimed at the general public, fashion week draws bigger crowds every year. Organizers face unique challenges this season because of a nationwide strike called on the final day to “shut down the country.”

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AN SOCIALITE WAS BRUTALLY MURDERED

Last week, 28-year-old Abby Choi, a Hong Kong socialite and influencer, was found brutally murdered and dismembered.

Choi’s ex-husband Alex Kwong, his brother Anthony, and their father Kwong Kau are charged with her murder. Jenny Li, the mother of the Kwong brothers, has been charged with perverting the course of justice. On Monday, the Kowloon City Magistrates’ Court denied bail to all members of the Kwong family.

Police found Choi’s body parts and a pot of “human soup” filled with Choi’s remains at an apartment near Tai Po District’s Lung Mei Beach that the elder Kwong had begun renting a few weeks earlier, two days after Choi was reported missing.

BOTTEGA VENETA 2023

Street style not from the extravagant, attention-seeking fashion species outside fashion shows, but from ordinary, arresting-looking people you might come across in your neighborhood just received a major stamp of approval from Bottega Veneta’s Matthieu Blazy, whose standing in the fashion landscape is on a meteoric trajectory. Continue reading

MOSCHINO 2023 MILANO

At Moschino the surrealism that is the DNA of the brand, is undeniably transformed into a new facet of the Italian label, with a spirit of rebellion for a Chanel-lisation of the brand the posh in the anarchic vision of the punk cool for bourgeoises walk in Milan.

PRONOUNCE RTW 2023

Founded by Yushan Li and Jun Zhou, Shanghai-based Pronounce’s fall 2023 collection was inspired by Chinese oracle bone scripts and knots, two of humanity’s oldest ways of storing information.

The suits and coats of the Mao regime resembled bones dug up from the ground, while tops, trousers, and outerwear featured giant ancient Chinese characters.

Giant knots danced around the sweaters in red, white, and brown, and oversize decorative patterns were made by knotting.

They said the collection represents their reflection of the information overload of the digital age, and how looking back might be the best course of action.

Their instincts were correct. This collection offered a fresh take on Chinese culture that wasn’t cliché. For those seeking Chinese identity, the collection has it all, and for those looking for great clothes, the brand has a lot to offer.” Continue reading

JW ANDERSON LONDON

UNITED COLOR OF ANDERSON; Looking at his archives, Anderson added the colors and images created by one of his heroes, pioneering dancer and choreographer Michael Clark. (In 2004, he staged the Alexander McQueen fashion show, which was more of an artistic performance than a fashion Show)

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SIMONE ROCHA

Simone Rocha used Lughnasadh in Westminster’s cavernous Central Methodist Hall yesterday. Models walked around the first level of the hall before carefully descending the ornate central staircase to skirt the rows below.  An ensemble of musicians performed a brooding, sometimes sinister, and very Celtic-sounding composition on stage.

You could imagine the venue’s founding fathers feeling aflutter as the looks unfolded and the soundtrack’s tempo gathered melodic urgency. The red ribbons that fell from the hair, garments, and sometimes eyes of certain models were meant to represent blood traditionally daubed on children’s faces to ward off ill spirits and bad luck.

Their ostensible primness and tumbled suggestion of their fabrication created a richly contradictory tension.

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DION LEE NEW YORK 2023

Roots under my words, leaves at my fingertips, I dreamed of creating a lyrical lineage, but it will not be for today. There is an immutable rule in Fashion Week that the shows always start late and at Dion Lee’s show it is in an empty loft in midtown Manhattan that we have been waiting for 50 minutes, as if the designer had not finished this collection that has already started for over 6 months.

All his life as a designer he was a chronic latecomer, he missed his appointments with me, and yet when he dies we will agree to say that he left too early; the last straw! Here it is the party in New York, clud 54 and tutti quanti, and for a good reason the designer born of the largest island of Oceania has found a niche by creating what is practically an outfit for the Rave parties, Kangaroo obliges. Lee has a look always carried on the sex, its cuts not precise reveals the most often a body of model who is not perfect either.

Tight dresses, tank tops with puffed sleeves, mini skirts and jeans that are only a wear two even are legion. The collection was slightly more refined than that of Kim Shui without losing his identity on the fact that he is a cool person. And the stars he worships including Julia Fox and Ice Spice sitting in the front row, confirmed their disease of narcissus syndrome, and on the other side of the party people for a drug sex and iPhone Video until the end of the night. It is necessary to “fuck” the pressure.

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WILLIAMS MIDDLE FINGER FOR KANYE WEST

Louis Vuitton appoints Pharrell Williams as creative director for men, you now have to be a thug, athlete or rapper to be a fashion designer, so why make fashion schools? Pharrell Irish name which means brave,  half black and not designer, after the achitechs the singers now!

In a bold move that confirms its positioning as a “cultural” brand, Louis Vuitton has appointed American Pharrell Williams as creative director of its men’s division. Yes, the one with the ridiculous glasses he wore at Chanel.

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RODARTE GLAM GOTHIC

Wednesday From Tim Burton, Gothic at Rodarte, animal at Collina Strada: two universes opened Friday the Fashion Week of New York, little provided in big names of fashion but full of young designers and emerging signatures, its trademark now.

Rodarte, the brand of the Californian sisters Kate and Laura Mulleavy, one of the most upscale to make its return in the New York calendar.

The two sisters, who had already made a detour into haute couture in Paris, and whose pieces are already featured in American museums, offered a gothic and mystical show, around a large table with tablecloths, dishes and silver candlesticks, in a landmark building in Brooklyn, the “Williamsburg Savings Bank Tower”.

The Rodarte show also reveals sublime dresses evoking both the fashion of the 30s with pieces adorned with bangs but also the golden age of Hollywood through dresses in silk and glamorous lace. Continue reading

HALLE BERRY METABOLIC

Halle Berry has joined Pendulum Therapeutics as chief communications officer, where she will advise on products and support the brand’s mission. She also became a brand equity owner and investor.

With its probiotic capsules, Pendulum Therapeutics offers gut health, sugar management, occasional gut discomfort, and metabolic health. Berry has been using the brand’s products for over a year, according to the brand, which received a $54 million Series C investment in 2021.

“Your gut and microbiome are so important to the rest of your overall health. It’s all connected. When I started using Pendulum, I immediately felt the difference in both my body and mind and I have been using it every day since,” Berry said in a statement. Continue reading

NEW FASHION MARC

The intimate runway show for Marc Jacobs’ spring 2023 collection took place Thursday night at the Park Avenue Armory, with a sense of excitement and nostalgia. Intimate for who, the journalists or the future customers?

In every detail, Jacobs is a master showman. The venue set up consisted of a single row of chairs for the audience, with a strobe light defining the runway of the darkened room so you couldn’t see anything at all; a pink-haired Jennifer Koh played a violin solo from Philip Glass’ “Einstein on the Beach: Knee Play 2,” and a cast of unisex/fluid models wearing his latest creations.

He also quoted Dame Vivienne Westwood, who said, “Fashion changes lives, and I think it’s a lovely and generous thing to do for each other” in the collection.
With cargo and patchwork pocket skirts and flipped jackets, the collection began with dazzled and reworked denim and utility numbers.

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GOD SAVE THE QUEEN CARTNEY

Stella McCartney went to Windsor Castle on Tuesday to see her friend and environmental activist, King Charles III, and to receive her latest award, OBE, for services to fashion and sustainability. The woman who received by Bernard Arnault  100 million euros,  ve ry expensive for a socialite!

Ms. McCartney was among more than 1,000 members of the British public to receive an official award from Queen Elizabeth.  Ms. McCartney wore a bespoke navy dress, handcrafted in her London atelier from Nativa’s regenerative and traceable wool. Nativa’s wool adheres to the highest levels of animal welfare, environmental protection and care for farmers and local communities, according to McCartney’s company.

There’s no need to look for the dress in her store, it doesn’t exist, as ecology and the Cartney family drives 4X4 not really eco responsible.

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R.I.P HILARY

After a long illness, Hilary Alexander, the London-based fashion writer who described leopard prints in her 2018 book, died at 77.

As president of the Graduate Fashion Foundation, which hosts Graduate Fashion Week, an annual showcase for fashion students, Alexander mentored many British fashion journalists during her long career at The Daily Telegraph.

Woe to anyone who interfered with Alexander’s pursuing a story or rushing to the next show when she was a bon viveur partial to Champagne and cigarettes. The gravelly sound of her voice could be heard through even the most dense fashion crowd, and she traveled the world reporting on shows, special events, and, of course, parties.

As a fashion news reporter, features writer, stylist, and features writer for the newspaper, her joie de vivre never got in the way of her ambition. RIP.

FASHION GRAMMYS

Easily one of the most fun red carpets in Hollywood, the Grammys brought out the biggest names in music on Sunday. Harry Styles, Bad Bunny, Lizzo, Mary J. Blige, Brandi Carlile, Sam Smith, Steve Lacy, Kim Petras, and Luke Combs will perform at the 2023 awards.

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