Fashion landscapes are constantly changing, especially during pandemics. As global restrictions lessen, men are once again eager to dress up. Continue reading
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COMPLETELY TIK LOCK
Blackpink’s Rosé the pop star, who has been an official ambassador for Tiffany since April 2021, will appear in images featuring new Lock designs as the collection begins an expansion beyond bracelets and into earrings, rings and necklaces.
It is understood that Blackpink’s contract with its record label YG is set to end in mid-2023 and it’s unclear if the group will sign an extension and if Tiffany’s contract with Rosé is contingent on her status with YG.
The record group’s relationship with Tiffany holding company LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton is a lucrative one beyond Rosé’s contract with Tiffany, fellow group member Lisa has contracts with Celine and Bulgari and Jisoo is in contract with Christian Dior.
Rosé’s Lock; campaign is representative of Tiffany’s investment in what it sees as a new marquee product line.The new designs are expected in stores this month with prices ranging from $4,800 to $20,000.
CHAMPAGNE FOR CHRISTMAS
Artémis Domaines, the wine company of billionaire François Pinault, has acquired the champagne house Jacquesson, it announced Tuesday in a statement. The billionaire’s company, which already owns Château Latour wine and Henriot champagne among others, becomes “the sole shareholder” of the Jacquesson house, in which it had been a minority shareholder since February 2022, the statement said.
Jacquesson, founded in Dizy, Champagne, was previously owned by the Chiquet family, which acquired it in 1974. The estate covers 40 hectares and produces 300,000 bottles per year. Jean Garandeau, general manager of the Jacquesson house since September 2022, retains his steering. Jean-Hervé Chiquet, the former owner, will continue to sit on the board of directors of the house.
THE BLOND STORM
Lan Griffiths the designer revved up the house’s signature styles by referencing the ultimate icon, Marilyn Monroe. Not that the actress was a new inspiration in fashion or for Griffiths she’s already infused the brand’s narrative twice in the past but her influence is constantly revamped, and most recently by Ana de Armas’ interpretation in the “Blonde” movie.
FASHION IN PARIS AND NETFLIX
According to the provisional calendar released Friday by the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode, all 81 events at Paris Men’s Week in Fall 2023 will be physical. Between Jan. 17 and Jan. 22, 48 shows and 33 presentations will unveil the men’s wear collections.
Saint Laurent will return to Paris on January 17 with its men’s collection show at 9 p.m. Anthony Vaccarello has shown his menswear designs in Marrakech, Jersey City, New Jersey, Venice, Italy, and Malibu.
It had been more than a year since Maison Margiela has shown a men’s collection, the first and only Artisanal collection to date by John Galliano. Its show will take place on Jan. 22 at 8 p.m.
The fashion week cornerstones are settling back into familiar positions with Rick Owens and Louis Vuitton on Jan 19 at 12:30 p.m. and 2:30 p.m., Dior Homme the next day at 2:30 p.m., and Hermès on Saturday at 3 p.m.
Emily Bode will join Emily in Paris in January. The six-year-old brand announced on Wednesday that it would return to the official Paris menswear calendar this season with a show scheduled for 6:30 p.m. on Jan. 21. Normal for the new president confusing couture and Netflix series, he thinks that the creator of the dumbest series in the world deserves an advertisement to change the image of France by stupid French fashion people. I am willing to bet that there will be Nodelato shoes in the serie. Continue reading
DIOR BEST WISHES FROM GRANDVILLE
A black-and-white photo from the Christian Dior archives shows a slim, corseted dress from the founder’s fall 1954 couture collection, its strict silhouette softened by a drape of sari-style fabric over one shoulder. A true creation but a false inspiration.
CHRISTENSEN IS SO SLOW
Tuesday night, Helena Christensen joined Dodiee founder Elisa Dahan at the label’s pop-up store in New York’s SoHo for a low-key cocktail party, not secret.
Christensen said she loves Dodiee because it enhances women’s curves. Choosing a body-hugging black knit dress with an open back for the cocktail party was not without irony.
The fact that I ended up wearing something black is funny. I am a very colorful person.
I usually never wear black. People are surprised when I do. Lavender is my favorite color. Hot pink? Yes! Also, the neon lime green is a very bold color to use in a collection and using it in curvaceous designs is a very bold, cool way to show off a woman’s body,” she said of the Dodiee line. Like what, you can be, and go to a party in Soho and not have anything to say! That’s The Way It Is…
HOUSE OF ROLEX AND CHANEL
By getting closer to the Rolex group, the Franco-British luxury group Chanel is taking a stake in the company Kenissi. A terse piece of information within the watchmaking profession, for a small earthquake in the Swiss watch industry. Although it may seem insignificant, this announcement takes on its full meaning when you know that Kenissi is the industrial arm of Tudor, the second brand in the Rolex group. This news is the result of a merger between two of the most important independent players in the global luxury industry.
Chanel continues to strengthen its position as a player in the prestige watch industry by taking a stake in this new Swiss manufacturer of automatic movements, and so the Wertheimers, without giving any figures or details, are getting up to speed.
Kenissi is a name that means almpost nothing for Beotians. It is in fact the Gemini project, as it was nicknamed by its initiators in the greatest secrecy, which will see the birth of a factory of about 150 meters long divided in two parts. One for Tudor, the other for Kenissi. The former vice-president of Breitling Jean-Paul Girardin will be in charge of the management of the factory and, more broadly, of Kenissi.
JACQUEMUS DISCOVERS RAPHIA
This is my last show,” Simon Porte Jacquemus announced solemnly but unfortunately it was a joke. Raphia (raphias, a word of Malagasy origin attested in 1652) is a genus of palm trees of the Arecaceae family that can be found in swampy environments and along rivers. This may be a confusion between Malagasy, and malvoisies.
Monocarpic plant or hapaxanthe (the stem dies after the fruiting like the nun’s broom, but the roots remain alive, emitting new shoots), perfect plant for fashion but already used by Franck Sorbier a long time ago, so nothing new under the sun.
PUCCI PACKAGE SKI
Over a three-day experience here, Emilio Pucci’s artistic director, who unveiled the Pucci x Fusalp collection, explained, in an interview at Badrutt’s Palace Hotel, that she had known since Day One that she wanted to do a skiwear collection, despite the fact that it’s totally connected to the brand’s lifestyle philosophy. Continue reading
THE DAKAR NOIR OF CHANEL
A stunning collection, in three-day program of cultural events in Dakar Senegal marked Chanel’s first fashion show in sub-Saharan Africa, unveiling its Métiers d’Art collection on Tuesday.
Princess Caroline of Monaco and her daughter Charlotte Casiraghi attended the show along with Pharrell Williams, Naomi Campbell, Whitney Peak, and Nile Rodgers.
70s-inspired pantsuits topped with beaded vests and skirts in geometric motifs that nodded to the flamboyant Congolese style subculture of the sapeurs. The lineup, which included flared jeans, platform shoes and tiered skirts, was greeted with a roar of approval from the 850 guests in attendance.
It was a potentially perilous exercise for the French luxury brand, which sought to deflect any accusations of cultural appropriation by inviting a host of local creatives to cooperate on the event, as well as unveiling a series of long-term initiatives to promote craftsmanship and sustainable farming, including the first overseas exhibition by its 19M specialty workshop hub in Paris. Chanel finds the coridor of the lord to represent the Afro Europeans. Very intelligent but it does not deceive anyone.
CAROLINA HERRERA PRE 2023
GUCCI RENAME SEASONS
On Tuesday, Gucci announced its cruise 2024 show will take place in South Korea on May 15, kicking off Milan’s fashion week in January. Until a new creative organization is revealed after the departure of Alessandro Michele last month, Gucci’s design office will continue to steer the house forward.
It marks Gucci’s 25th anniversary in South Korea since its first flagship opened in Seoul in 1998. A 1395 Seoul landmark, also known as The Palace Greatly Blessed by Heaven and built during the Joseon dynasty, was the setting for Gucci’s Cosmogonie show, a repeat performance of its collection unveiled in Apulia last May.
On Nov. 1, Gucci CEO Marco Bizzarri and Choi Eung-Cheon, South Korea’s head of cultural heritage, signed an agreement to preserve the palace. Continue reading
DEATH AFTER THE NILE
Fashion journalist for fifty years, half of which she spent at the French Figaro since 1979. She was the first to have interviewed Yves Saint-Laurent, Normal when you are the only fashion journalist in Paris, and the first was Pierre Berger.
She had lunch at Maxim’s and at the Elysée Palace with the Queen of England, met Luciano Pavarotti, dared to ask Karl Lagerfeld for an account, stayed in Miami with Gianni Versace, discovered the secret Tangier of Jean-Louis Scherrer, and and its tax audi.
Her life merges with the great moments of a half-century of fashion, parties, launches, crossed by leading personalities that she had the privilege to approach and tell.
Viperous articles fiellently distilled on Fashion show of the small and without rank to praise the brand that made her gifts. Lost Illusions of Honorés de Balzac has it all alone. She said of Jacques Mouclier to please Pierre Berger, that he was an civik servant of the crystal.
A NECROPLOLIS FOR DIOR
At the Grand Egyptian Museum near Cairo, Dior held a preview event for its pre-fall menswear show, set to take place before the pyramids of Giza.
An imposing statue of Ramesses II dominates the entrance hall of the imposing building in which Dior Tears, a capsule collection designed by Denim Tears creative director Tremaine Emory, was presented on Friday night. Continue reading
HAIDER ACKERMAN AND JEAN PIPOL
Haider Ackermann still remembers its sublime chic. Or how they can take a blind designer hostage .
Gaultier remembers reading in Le Figaro about a hot new Belgian designer named Haider and being dazzled by his sophisticated colors and unexpected silhouettes, finally someone else to copy.
Seated opposite each other on black sofas in Jean Paul Gaultier’s couture salon designed by Philippe Starck, the two men shared a laugh for the photos. Ackermann put in a plug for Marina Yee, one of the lesser-known of the Antwerp Six that put the small Belgian city on the international fashion radar in fashion.
For his part, Ackermann said Gaultier opened his mind also because he pushed the envelop in culture and society. Not open only the mind blows me my assistant !
ZARA SECOND HAND AHEAD
With over 670,000 listings across major resale platforms, charity-linked discount finder Savoo identified Zara as the most popular secondhand brand. Aside from Nike, Adidas, H&M, Victoria’s Secret, Asos, Levi’s, Louis Vuitton, Gucci and Chanel, other brands with high listings volumes are Nike, Adidas, H&M, Victoria’s Secret and H&M. Continue reading
ALBERTA FERRETTI PRE 2023
RENATO BALESTRA PASSED AWAY
Renato Balestra, the dean of Italian couture, died in Rome on Saturday, age 98. After an apprenticeship with Jole Veneziani in 1959, he opened his first atelier in Rome, where the company is still based today.
Having come from a family of architects and engineers, he stood out for his artistic ability and was considered the “painter of fashion.” Known for his signature painterly embroidery and blend of fabrics and transparencies, his name was associated with a distinctive color Balestra blue.
Balestra designed exclusive collections for Isetan in Tokyo as well as Saks Fifth Avenue, Bergdorf Goodman, Foley’s, Neiman Marcus and Lord Taylor. In 1970, he included men’s looks in a women’s fashion show a pioneer in creating unisex collections on coed catwalks.
His brand was relaunched earlier this year with a new course set by his granddaughter, Sofia Bertolli Balestra, with a first ready-to-wear collection presented in February during Milan Fashion Week. Renamed simply Balestra, the logo revisits the hand-drawn version designed by the founder in 1971 and appears in his signature color.
The brand remains privately owned by the family, with the founder’s daughters Fabiana Sofia’s mother and Federica Balestra at the head of the fashion house.”
FM
AVATAR ZOE IN FASHION
She is probably best known for “Avatar,” the James Cameron epic that became the biggest movie of all time in 2009. But she’s also part of “Avengers” and “Star Trek”. She has become one of the highest-grossing actresses in today’s movies.
It’s naturally an entirely different world 13 years after the first “Avatar” movie was released, and the moment of course leads to reflection on how Saldaña’s life and career have changed in that time.
At a certain point, even being an action star begins to feel like riding a bicycle, and Saldaña is now in her moment of seeking out discomfort. Whjy not Fashion ?
Monot’s polyester dress. Boucheron Maillons necklace, from Paris, Vu du 26 high jewelry collection, set with quartz, pavéd with diamonds, on yellow gold; Vendorafa 18-karat yellow gold dome ring; Bulgari Serpenti Viper ring in 18k yellow gold with diamonds; David Yurman ring in 18k yellow gold with pavé diamonds; Anita Ko gold ring; Delfina Delettrez 18k gold, white diamond and akoya pearl ring; Hamilton Jewelers 18k rose gold ring; Saldaña’s own gold ring, worn throughout. Continue reading