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LOEWE EXCITING NEXT
It’s exciting to see Jonathan Anderson explore the unknown in menswear the void of Lavoisier.
The Loewe men’s show was stunning, challenging in its directness, unorthodox in its use of copper colors and pewter and vellum, and often chic in a strange way I thought I was a plumber.
In the midst of a fall season filled with tailored wool coats, Anderson’s were exceptional in their elasticity, and even more intriguing when cut a little looser and buttonless, with a deep V-shaped opening into which the mannequins rested an arm.
Several models wore white and red contact lenses, adding eerie and disturbing moments to the show, which was framed by three large-scale paintings by Julien Nguyen. The zombies are back.
Crewneck sweaters tightened at the side seams, creating bulbous shapes, while trench coats puffed up like dresses seen in old master paintings sponsored by Michelin. A silver top with a bulging hem contained sand to create a new “modular” shape. Continue reading
DIOR HIJACKS SAINT LAURENT
A horde of screaming fans huddled behind barriers greeted the BTS member on Place de la Concorde. The mood inside the darkened tent was one of controlled chaos as the South Korean heartthrob joined Robert Pattinson, Eddie Redmayne, J Balvin, David Beckham and Gwendoline Christie.VUITTON CHICAGO FIRE
Somebody pinch Colm Dillane. Just 18 months after winning the runner-up award at the LVMH Prize for Young Designers, the Brooklyn, New York-based designer was at Paris Fashion Week to present the collection he codesigned for Louis Vuitton, the world’s biggest luxury brand.
Dillane, the founder and creative director of the KidSuper label, came to the table with a 500-page book of ideas, but Vuitton’s in-house team had already designed a large portion of the collection, which revolved loosely around the theme made in Chicago.
GIVENCHIC BECOME GIVENCHEAP
In terms of savoir-faire, what is the difference between a man’s suit so peerlessly tailored in a couture atelier that there are no outseams on the trousers, and a windbreaker or puffer jacket that is garment dyed, producing unpredictable, uneven color variations?
Is it one of Matthew M. Williams’ best Givenchy men’s collections to date, showing his range as a designer and combining innovation in tailoring and sportswear? Probably not.
YSL MALE SINGULAR
In the soft gloom of the new flagship of the Kering Group, the spotlights reflected in the azure eyes of the models, and like a kiss that makes us shiver, Vaccarello, the magician, makes our souls shiver in a gesture so neutral that we are all surprised. A grand piano, in the middle of the large round room, installed there for the actress Charlotte Gainsbourg who plays on the keys of melancholy.
ZEGNA FLEECE IN CASHEMERE
A cashmere flakes installation protected by ceiling-high glass windows this season was the brand’s focus. It was intended to show guests a key phase in the production of Oasi Cashmere fabrics at the company’s Trivero factory. Oasi of Cashmere was the second cue: the name of the collection.
PRADA UNCONVINCING OUTERWEAR
In a Milan men’s season lacking in excitement, especially as Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons reinvent the ’70s pie collar
No applause broke out at the end of their sad Sunday show, an austere collection in a setting of Art Deco chandeliers was the only interesting thing about this show.
FENDI MADE IN LUXURY
In a mesmerizing display, it was difficult to take one’s eye off the stunning show. Hand-painted, antique-finish leather coats, shearling jackets, and hand-woven cashmere totes stuffed with cashmere blankets, along with crocodile boots with Cuban heels.If your budget is less than five figures, you’re out of luck. Continue reading
JAN JAN VAN ESSCHE 2023
TATJANA PATITZ
It would be necessary to speak in the language of Victor Hugo or Cornelius to describe the beauty.
In memory to TATJANA PATITZ (25 March 1966, Hamburg – January 2023), the German top model who achieved international prominence in the 1980s and 1990s representing fashion designers on runways and in magazines such as ‘Elle’, ‘Harper’s Bazaar’, and ‘Vogue’. Patitz was one of the big five supermodels who appeared in the 1990 music video “Freedom! ’90” by George Michael, and is associated with the editorial, advertising, and fine-art works of photographers Herb Ritts and Peter Lindbergh.
In the book ‘Models of Influence: 50 Women Who Reset The Course of Fashion’, author Nigel Barker reviewed Patitz’s career during the height of the supermodel era in the 1980s and 1990s, writing that she possessed an exoticism and broad emotional range that set her apart from her peers. Continue reading
THE RED AND THE BLACK
For those in the market for decidedly evening styles, the couturier delivered glamorous but believable fare, lining up draped goddess gowns, monochromatic sheath dresses, sequined suiting in changeant tones of aqua and purple. There was even another hoodie, this time dressed in silver and gold sequins.
MUGLER MIDNIGHT IN PARIS
Mugler, the French house, plans to return to the Paris runway on Jan. 26 with a stronger presence. It has scheduled a presentation for 8 p.m. on Jan. 26 at La Villette, a vast cultural complex on the northeastern edge of Paris will parade a see now, buy now collection.
Paris couture week runs from Jan. 23 to 26 this season, and there are always a few ready-to-wear events at either end of the schedule. An immersive experience across all channels, and in front of a live audience, is what Mugler offers as a new concept. Mugler’s last live runway show was for fall 2020.
During lockdowns, Cadwallader produced three fast-paced films featuring special effects; fierce, body-baring fashions, and cameos from Megan Thee Stallion, Chloë Sevigny, Hunter Schafer and Shalom Harlow.
As the designer reflected on the power of film to engage wider audiences, he expressed some hesitation about returning to a simple runway show after the trilogy ended. Mugler has always been a popular brand and we didn’t want to keep the show only for the happy few, he added. Continue reading
L’ACOSTE GLOBE-TROTTER
After four years as Lacoste’s creative director, Louis Trotter is stepping down. In addition to directing the fashion show and general collections, Trotter contributed to the company’s shift toward women’s wear, lauding her “real consistency” in creating the company’s overall line.
She had joined the company in 2018, showing her first collection in February 2019 during Paris Fashion Week. Thierry Guibert praised Trotter’s creativity and commitment, as well as her contribution to Lacoste’s legacy.
Lacoste’s executive had noted Trotter’s contribution to the brand’s enduring sports casual identity during the opening of its Champs-Elysées flagship. An intimate presentation in Paris showcased her latest designs. In spring 2023, they will be available for purchase.
Lacoste is rethinking its creative approach, stating that it will take the form of “a collaborative studio model focused on a collective vision.” The brand will also be celebrating its 90th anniversary in 2023.
FURS FOR BIMBOS IT IS OVER
Days before the end of 2022, a pop-up store displayed sable, chinchilla, mink, fox and other furs for 75 percent off.
Furs last retail outlet in California was the high-end Beverly Center, a large shopping complex adjacent to Beverly Hills. The shopping center was trying to sell as much merchandise as possible before the California Legislature passed a statewide fur ban on Jan.
Bimbos have been buying our furs here for years at 25 degrees, and this has killed our business. Fur opponents have spent years slowly whittling away at California’s fur business, and they win.
THEY QUIT THE FASHION INDUSTRY
In November, Alessandro Michele bowed out as creative director of Gucci, stating that “there are times when paths part ways because of the different perspectives each one of us may have. Revenue at Gucci almost tripled during this seven-year tenure, from roughly $4 billion in 2015 to $10 billion in 2021 (27 billion RMB to 69 billion RMB) And no sale in the boujtique !
In December, Miuccia Prada and her husband Patrizio Bertelli resigned as co-CEOs of the Italian luxury fashion house group.
After a star-studded presentation of its Spring 23 collection, British luxury brand Burberry announced that its chief creative officer Riccardo Tisci would step down by the end of September.
In August, Kasper Rørsted announced he would be leaving his CEO post at the end of the year, well before his contract expires in 2026. The news came shortly after Rørsted stated in an interview that “we made mistakes in China,” which quickly dominated global headlines and became a trending topic on Weibo. Indeed, Adidas has faced an onslaught of challenges since the pandemic.
A DRAG QUEEN FACTORY
As part of its commitment to supporting emerging talents, AZ Factory is hosting an event during Paris Couture Week to showcase the work of Tennessy Thoreson, a recent fashion school graduate.
Having pivoted to a platform for collaborations with guest creatives, or “amigos,” following the untimely death of its founder Alber Elbaz in 2021, AZ Factory is set to present what it bills as a “theatrical show” on Jan. 23 featuring 12 looks by Thoreson inspired.
Mauro Grimaldi met Thoreson at the Geneva University of Art and Design (HEAD) in November 2021, where Thoreson won both the Eyes on Talents award and the bachelor Bongénie Prize.
A member of the drag community, Thoreson exemplifies the ethos of smart fashion at AZ Factory. The designs will be available for custom order, with fittings to be held at AZ Factory’s Paris atelier at Fondation Cartier.
MEN IN 2023
Fashion landscapes are constantly changing, especially during pandemics. As global restrictions lessen, men are once again eager to dress up. Continue reading
COMPLETELY TIK LOCK
Blackpink’s Rosé the pop star, who has been an official ambassador for Tiffany since April 2021, will appear in images featuring new Lock designs as the collection begins an expansion beyond bracelets and into earrings, rings and necklaces.
It is understood that Blackpink’s contract with its record label YG is set to end in mid-2023 and it’s unclear if the group will sign an extension and if Tiffany’s contract with Rosé is contingent on her status with YG.
The record group’s relationship with Tiffany holding company LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton is a lucrative one beyond Rosé’s contract with Tiffany, fellow group member Lisa has contracts with Celine and Bulgari and Jisoo is in contract with Christian Dior.
Rosé’s Lock; campaign is representative of Tiffany’s investment in what it sees as a new marquee product line.The new designs are expected in stores this month with prices ranging from $4,800 to $20,000.
CHAMPAGNE FOR CHRISTMAS
Artémis Domaines, the wine company of billionaire François Pinault, has acquired the champagne house Jacquesson, it announced Tuesday in a statement. The billionaire’s company, which already owns Château Latour wine and Henriot champagne among others, becomes “the sole shareholder” of the Jacquesson house, in which it had been a minority shareholder since February 2022, the statement said.
Jacquesson, founded in Dizy, Champagne, was previously owned by the Chiquet family, which acquired it in 1974. The estate covers 40 hectares and produces 300,000 bottles per year. Jean Garandeau, general manager of the Jacquesson house since September 2022, retains his steering. Jean-Hervé Chiquet, the former owner, will continue to sit on the board of directors of the house.