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MANAGERS’ MERCATO

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With immediate effect, Philippe Farnier has been appointed executive vice president international of Parfums Christian Dior. In an internal memo, parent company LVMH Mot Hennessy Louis Vuitton announced changes in its Perfumes and Cosmetics Division earlier this month. That included the nomination of Véronique Courtois taking the helm of Parfums Christian Dior.

He succeeds Bruno Angibeau, who served as international managing director of Parfums Christian Dior since 2011. He is leaving LVMH.

For now, Farnier will continue to be chief executive officer of Travel Retail LVMH Beauty, working closely with Stéphane Rinderknech, the newly appointed chairman and CEO of LVMH’s Beauty Division. The group is cleaning up after the changes in the group’s newspapers, now it is the perfumes and after certainly couture… It was time!

L’OREAL AND GEMO

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The quest for sustainable ingredients is picking up pace at L’Oréal. One of the world’s largest beauty companies announced Monday that it has invested in a Geno-led initiative to develop and commercialize biotechnology-based alternatives to key ingredients in beauty products.

A founding member of the initiative is Genomatica Inc., known as Geno, along with Unilever and Kao.

According to Barbara Lavernos, L’Oréal deputy chief executive responsible for research, innovation, and technology, Geno is among the most powerful biotech start-ups.

Geno develops sustainable materials from plant- or waste-based feedstocks rather than fossil fuels. A wide range of products are made from its materials, including cosmetics, carpets, performance foods, drinks, and home cleaners. Continue reading →

SCOTT AT LVMH OR CHANEL

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A statement will be released shortly regarding Jeremy Scott’s departure from Moschino after 10 years as creative director.

Massimo Ferretti, executive chairman of Moschino’s parent company Aeffe, said he was fortunate to work with the creative force that is Jeremy Scott. “I would like to thank him for his ten years of commitment to Franco Moschino’s legacy house and for ushering in a distinct and joyful vision that will forever be a part of Moschino history.” Continue reading →

A STINKY SMELL PERFUME

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In many member states, the European Commission conducted unannounced inspections of companies and an association involved in the perfume industry. A collusion investigation is being conducted regarding the supply of perfumes and fragrance ingredients.

According to the Commission, which did not reveal the names of the companies and associations it inspected, it has also sent formal requests for information to several companies in the same sector. But knowing that few companies produce perfumes we can easily guess which ones.

“The inspection and requests for information concern possible collusion in the supply of perfumes and fragrance ingredients,” the European Commission said in a statement. “Fragrances are used in the manufacture of consumer products, such as household products and personal care products.

The Commission stressed that these inspections do not imply that the companies are guilty and do not prejudge the outcome of the investigation.

In exchange for reporting the conduct and cooperating with the Commission throughout its investigation, companies that participated in a secret cartel may receive immunity from fines or a significant reduction in fines under the European Commission’s leniency program. Continue reading →

BACK TO THE WISE FASHION

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From Sarah Burton’s return to Alexander McQueen’s Savile Row roots to Chitose Abe’s pinstriped suits at Sacai to Louis Vuitton’s blanket-soft herringbone blazers and pants to Simone Rocha’s sublime sailor-inspired styles, tailoring was prominent throughout the show.

At Prada, Raf Simons called the idea “daily couture,” and the collection he designed with Miuccia Prada was full of it, with perfect black pants, army shirts and classic crewneck sweaters, as well as floral-decorated white skirts and volume-back military coats with origami flowers. Even Loewe elevated everyday leather shirtdresses, twisty knits, and trompe l’oeil dresses to must-haves.

A masterful mix of Space Age and modern age was showcased by Julien Dossena at Paco Rabanne with chainmail, chandelier crystals, and fringed tinsel. Despite the return to reality, runway fireworks were largely absent, except for Thom Browne’s epic staging of “The Little Prince.” The season’s dominant storyline was wearable clothes, but it wasn’t enough to re-focus attention on New York, according to the new chairman of the CFDA. It’s important to put on a show.

IN THE EYES OF PASSION

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Here is the most glaring contradiction of this new world of fashion, new status and pillar of popular culture, a show that anyone can follow or even practice by commenting for the most part without any knowledge. A large part of the audience on Instagram is dominated by fashionistas in slippers often having unemployed neurons.

However, they believe they have a true devotion, for fashion, not out of passion, but out of a desire to shine from Andy Warhol’s 15 minutes of fame. Some of them think they are indispensable, like the bimbo who works for 1,200 euros gross at LVMH, and who, with a business card with the “Vuitton” logo, thinks she is the top of the fashion week. One of them told me one day: “fashion is me! She was a saleswoman at Sephora. Continue reading →

GUCCI A SPACE ODYSSEY

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New Gucci advertising campaign celebrating Stanley Kubrick. I’ve always been charmed by cinema. For its power to tell stories that can probe human adventure and its drift,” begin Alessandro Michele’s notes on the new Exquisite Gucci campaign, which draws inspiration from a series of iconic films by the late, celebrated sculptor of genres, Stanley Kubrick. Continue reading →

OSCARS BY CARATS

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To make rhyme style and sustainability, it was the mission given this year by the Oscars to the guests of the prestigious ceremony. They were invited this March 12 to favor rental, reuse, upcycling, or natural materials to green the most scrutinized red carpet of the season.

As a result, the expected “green” wave didn’t break over the Dolby Theatre in Los Angeles, but a handful of guests worked to show the way towards a more planet-friendly ceremony.

Always on the lookout for Pantone’s “color of the year” at the Oscars, Eiseman pointed to Cara Delevingne’s “exuberant and beautifully worn” red Elie Saab gown.

Mr. Eiseman highlighted Cara Delevingne’s “exuberant and beautifully worn” red Elie Saab dress. Cara and her new one hundred percent silicon bust and tattoos, muse of luxury houses, but especially muse of the best payers.

It was for this 95th ceremony to turn to vintage dresses, already worn on other occasions, rented, or borrowed in the archives of major fashion houses, pure marketing in fact. And we forgot the blood diamonds.

LUXURY INSIDE THE DREAM

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After two strong years of luxury sales in Europe and the U.S., high-end demand remains strong.Mostly, freewheeling spending is driven by “how people feel, what they want” Consumers “don’t care and want to have a good time” even if their stock market portfolios decline after experiencing two terrible years caused by the pandemic.

The demand for new dresses, shoes, and handbags is outpacing jewelry purchases, which spiked due to gifting during the pandemic and continue to show strong results, he added.

In 2018, Louis Vuitton reported that it had 5 million Chinese consumers, representing .03 percent of the Chinese population. This underscores how thin the penetration of Chinese demand is.

With the return of shoppers from China, who can now travel more freely, luxury stores, including some that already have waiting lists and require appointments, could potentially get very crowded.

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FASHION BUYERS FLEE THE FRENCH CAPITAL

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According to a study, the majority of Buyers leave the French capital. It was not until 508 that Paris became the capital of the Franks for the first time. And it is still the work of Clovis who resides in the thermal bath, as its name indicates, in Paris built by the Romans.

And despite the history of the capital, the fact is there, Russian, Chinese, American and Italian who represent 85% of the fashion buyers coming usualy in Paris during the Fashion Week, were on vacation this year. Since the French capital has begun works in the street it has made traffic more difficult and leds to heavy traffic and if you add strikes of all sorts plus garbages left on the pavements of the streets as well as a lack of services in the restaurants you discouraged people to come and work in Paris

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PARIS FASHION ACESSORIES 2023

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Exuberance for bold accessories found new expressions. In addition to Balenciaga and Loewe’s large handbags, Alexander McQueen and Victoria Beckham’s boots have taken the concept of thigh-high boots to the extreme by merging them directly with pants.

The handbags Loewe presented on the runway were inspired by the brand’s archive from the 1970s, under the creative direction of Jonathan Anderson.Sneakers were the only category missing this season.

With dazzling pumps and sandals, studded knee-high boots and a flamenco-inspired capsule collection with Rossy de Palma, Christian Louboutin celebrated 30 years of its signature red soles.

Over the past week, flashy pieces, scaled-up proportions, and strong collaborations dominated the accessories scene in footwear, handbags, and jewelry. Continue reading →

A HOTELKEEPER FOR PERFUME

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LVMH Mot Hennessy Louis Vuitton’s Perfumes and Cosmetics division has appointed Stephane Rinderknech chairman and CEO. Stéphane Rinderknech joined L’Oréal in 2001 in the United States within Travel Retail.

He oversees the group’s 15 beauty brands, grouped under Parfums Christian Dior, Guerlain, LVMH Fragrance Brands, and Kendo. Rinderknech also leads LVMH Hospitality Excellence, which includes Hôtels Cheval Blanc and Belmond Hotels. He remains a member of the group’s executive committee as well.

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BALENCIAGA BACK IN STYLE

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In love with black, purity and cuts, the unpredictability is a substantial element of the dissymmetrical creation. It creates an effect of surprise favorable to the eye, and the ignorance of the public is an asset in the hands of the Georgian designer.

To this factor is added the anxiety of creating by the uncertainty of a non-repetition of acts, the anxiety is further increased when the designer immerses us in his structures and the memory of the mud and water of his last collection.

Sunday’s fashion show at the Carrousel du Louvre, the meeting place par excellence of the old school, where Jacques Mouclier wanted, in his time, to gather the whole profession in view of the traffic problems to come, but visionaries are never recognized in their time. The show went off without a hitch, as minimalist as possible with rows of black chairs in a long room lined with white canvas, a tool that workshops like for their test canvases.

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COPERNI TOO ROBOT TO BE REAL

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Coperni designers Sebastien Meyer and Arnaud Vaillant sought to create more impactful images by sending robot dogs down the runway, which led to a confrontation between model Rianne Van Rompaey and a quadruped that created a palpable sense of unease. After the plastic painting on mannequin a robot that undresses the mannequins.

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DRIES VAN NOTEN PARIS 2023

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Intimacy. That’s what inspired Dries Van Noten’s fall 2023 women’s collection, which was dedicated to the love of clothes and cultivating relationships.Van Noten elevated dressmaker and mending details to the stage of Le Dôme de Paris (Palais des arts). Porte de versailles.

Some of the classics had special touches, such as a trench coat with gold paint rolled around the waist, as if it had been embellished by hand.

There were also feminine, lingerie-inspired pieces that contrasted with the masculine tailoring, including slipdresses embroidered with French lace or strapped with old necklaces, organza layered skirts with raw edges, and dusters with subtle floral prints over bra tops.

“We wanted pieces to look antique but not dusty,” he said, noting that a gold lamé floral was adopted from an archival piece found in a mill in Como, and another fabric was Continue reading →

SCHIAPARELLI PARIS 2023

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The Paris calendar is jam-packed with shows this season, so our backstage spy reporter will have more shows to cover, including big names like Christian Dior, Loewe and Givenchy as well as newcomers like Paco Rabanne and Y/Project. Daniel Roseberry’s Schiaparelli show is always a viral hit, and this season he’ll show ready-to-wear for the house for the first time. Wise very wise…

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PARIS FASHION GUERILLA

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As K-pop stars take over the front rows and crowds of fans follow in the streets, as well as guerrilla invitations aimed at the general public, fashion week draws bigger crowds every year. Organizers face unique challenges this season because of a nationwide strike called on the final day to “shut down the country.”

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AN SOCIALITE WAS BRUTALLY MURDERED

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Last week, 28-year-old Abby Choi, a Hong Kong socialite and influencer, was found brutally murdered and dismembered.

Choi’s ex-husband Alex Kwong, his brother Anthony, and their father Kwong Kau are charged with her murder. Jenny Li, the mother of the Kwong brothers, has been charged with perverting the course of justice. On Monday, the Kowloon City Magistrates’ Court denied bail to all members of the Kwong family.

Police found Choi’s body parts and a pot of “human soup” filled with Choi’s remains at an apartment near Tai Po District’s Lung Mei Beach that the elder Kwong had begun renting a few weeks earlier, two days after Choi was reported missing.

BOTTEGA VENETA 2023

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Street style not from the extravagant, attention-seeking fashion species outside fashion shows, but from ordinary, arresting-looking people you might come across in your neighborhood just received a major stamp of approval from Bottega Veneta’s Matthieu Blazy, whose standing in the fashion landscape is on a meteoric trajectory. Continue reading →

MOSCHINO 2023 MILANO

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At Moschino the surrealism that is the DNA of the brand, is undeniably transformed into a new facet of the Italian label, with a spirit of rebellion for a Chanel-lisation of the brand the posh in the anarchic vision of the punk cool for bourgeoises walk in Milan.

PRONOUNCE RTW 2023

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Founded by Yushan Li and Jun Zhou, Shanghai-based Pronounce’s fall 2023 collection was inspired by Chinese oracle bone scripts and knots, two of humanity’s oldest ways of storing information.

The suits and coats of the Mao regime resembled bones dug up from the ground, while tops, trousers, and outerwear featured giant ancient Chinese characters.

Giant knots danced around the sweaters in red, white, and brown, and oversize decorative patterns were made by knotting.

They said the collection represents their reflection of the information overload of the digital age, and how looking back might be the best course of action.

Their instincts were correct. This collection offered a fresh take on Chinese culture that wasn’t cliché. For those seeking Chinese identity, the collection has it all, and for those looking for great clothes, the brand has a lot to offer.” Continue reading →