Author Archives: admin

IN THE EYES OF PASSION

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Here is the most glaring contradiction of this new world of fashion, new status and pillar of popular culture, a show that anyone can follow or even practice by commenting for the most part without any knowledge. A large part of the audience on Instagram is dominated by fashionistas in slippers often having unemployed neurons.

However, they believe they have a true devotion, for fashion, not out of passion, but out of a desire to shine from Andy Warhol’s 15 minutes of fame. Some of them think they are indispensable, like the bimbo who works for 1,200 euros gross at LVMH, and who, with a business card with the “Vuitton” logo, thinks she is the top of the fashion week. One of them told me one day: “fashion is me! She was a saleswoman at Sephora. Continue reading →

GUCCI A SPACE ODYSSEY

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New Gucci advertising campaign celebrating Stanley Kubrick. I’ve always been charmed by cinema. For its power to tell stories that can probe human adventure and its drift,” begin Alessandro Michele’s notes on the new Exquisite Gucci campaign, which draws inspiration from a series of iconic films by the late, celebrated sculptor of genres, Stanley Kubrick. Continue reading →

OSCARS BY CARATS

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To make rhyme style and sustainability, it was the mission given this year by the Oscars to the guests of the prestigious ceremony. They were invited this March 12 to favor rental, reuse, upcycling, or natural materials to green the most scrutinized red carpet of the season.

As a result, the expected “green” wave didn’t break over the Dolby Theatre in Los Angeles, but a handful of guests worked to show the way towards a more planet-friendly ceremony.

Always on the lookout for Pantone’s “color of the year” at the Oscars, Eiseman pointed to Cara Delevingne’s “exuberant and beautifully worn” red Elie Saab gown.

Mr. Eiseman highlighted Cara Delevingne’s “exuberant and beautifully worn” red Elie Saab dress. Cara and her new one hundred percent silicon bust and tattoos, muse of luxury houses, but especially muse of the best payers.

It was for this 95th ceremony to turn to vintage dresses, already worn on other occasions, rented, or borrowed in the archives of major fashion houses, pure marketing in fact. And we forgot the blood diamonds.

LUXURY INSIDE THE DREAM

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After two strong years of luxury sales in Europe and the U.S., high-end demand remains strong.Mostly, freewheeling spending is driven by “how people feel, what they want” Consumers “don’t care and want to have a good time” even if their stock market portfolios decline after experiencing two terrible years caused by the pandemic.

The demand for new dresses, shoes, and handbags is outpacing jewelry purchases, which spiked due to gifting during the pandemic and continue to show strong results, he added.

In 2018, Louis Vuitton reported that it had 5 million Chinese consumers, representing .03 percent of the Chinese population. This underscores how thin the penetration of Chinese demand is.

With the return of shoppers from China, who can now travel more freely, luxury stores, including some that already have waiting lists and require appointments, could potentially get very crowded.

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FASHION BUYERS FLEE THE FRENCH CAPITAL

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According to a study, the majority of Buyers leave the French capital. It was not until 508 that Paris became the capital of the Franks for the first time. And it is still the work of Clovis who resides in the thermal bath, as its name indicates, in Paris built by the Romans.

And despite the history of the capital, the fact is there, Russian, Chinese, American and Italian who represent 85% of the fashion buyers coming usualy in Paris during the Fashion Week, were on vacation this year. Since the French capital has begun works in the street it has made traffic more difficult and leds to heavy traffic and if you add strikes of all sorts plus garbages left on the pavements of the streets as well as a lack of services in the restaurants you discouraged people to come and work in Paris

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PARIS FASHION ACESSORIES 2023

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Exuberance for bold accessories found new expressions. In addition to Balenciaga and Loewe’s large handbags, Alexander McQueen and Victoria Beckham’s boots have taken the concept of thigh-high boots to the extreme by merging them directly with pants.

The handbags Loewe presented on the runway were inspired by the brand’s archive from the 1970s, under the creative direction of Jonathan Anderson.Sneakers were the only category missing this season.

With dazzling pumps and sandals, studded knee-high boots and a flamenco-inspired capsule collection with Rossy de Palma, Christian Louboutin celebrated 30 years of its signature red soles.

Over the past week, flashy pieces, scaled-up proportions, and strong collaborations dominated the accessories scene in footwear, handbags, and jewelry. Continue reading →

A HOTELKEEPER FOR PERFUME

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LVMH Mot Hennessy Louis Vuitton’s Perfumes and Cosmetics division has appointed Stephane Rinderknech chairman and CEO. Stéphane Rinderknech joined L’Oréal in 2001 in the United States within Travel Retail.

He oversees the group’s 15 beauty brands, grouped under Parfums Christian Dior, Guerlain, LVMH Fragrance Brands, and Kendo. Rinderknech also leads LVMH Hospitality Excellence, which includes Hôtels Cheval Blanc and Belmond Hotels. He remains a member of the group’s executive committee as well.

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BALENCIAGA BACK IN STYLE

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In love with black, purity and cuts, the unpredictability is a substantial element of the dissymmetrical creation. It creates an effect of surprise favorable to the eye, and the ignorance of the public is an asset in the hands of the Georgian designer.

To this factor is added the anxiety of creating by the uncertainty of a non-repetition of acts, the anxiety is further increased when the designer immerses us in his structures and the memory of the mud and water of his last collection.

Sunday’s fashion show at the Carrousel du Louvre, the meeting place par excellence of the old school, where Jacques Mouclier wanted, in his time, to gather the whole profession in view of the traffic problems to come, but visionaries are never recognized in their time. The show went off without a hitch, as minimalist as possible with rows of black chairs in a long room lined with white canvas, a tool that workshops like for their test canvases.

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COPERNI TOO ROBOT TO BE REAL

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Coperni designers Sebastien Meyer and Arnaud Vaillant sought to create more impactful images by sending robot dogs down the runway, which led to a confrontation between model Rianne Van Rompaey and a quadruped that created a palpable sense of unease. After the plastic painting on mannequin a robot that undresses the mannequins.

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DRIES VAN NOTEN PARIS 2023

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Intimacy. That’s what inspired Dries Van Noten’s fall 2023 women’s collection, which was dedicated to the love of clothes and cultivating relationships.Van Noten elevated dressmaker and mending details to the stage of Le Dôme de Paris (Palais des arts). Porte de versailles.

Some of the classics had special touches, such as a trench coat with gold paint rolled around the waist, as if it had been embellished by hand.

There were also feminine, lingerie-inspired pieces that contrasted with the masculine tailoring, including slipdresses embroidered with French lace or strapped with old necklaces, organza layered skirts with raw edges, and dusters with subtle floral prints over bra tops.

“We wanted pieces to look antique but not dusty,” he said, noting that a gold lamé floral was adopted from an archival piece found in a mill in Como, and another fabric was Continue reading →

SCHIAPARELLI PARIS 2023

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The Paris calendar is jam-packed with shows this season, so our backstage spy reporter will have more shows to cover, including big names like Christian Dior, Loewe and Givenchy as well as newcomers like Paco Rabanne and Y/Project. Daniel Roseberry’s Schiaparelli show is always a viral hit, and this season he’ll show ready-to-wear for the house for the first time. Wise very wise…

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PARIS FASHION GUERILLA

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As K-pop stars take over the front rows and crowds of fans follow in the streets, as well as guerrilla invitations aimed at the general public, fashion week draws bigger crowds every year. Organizers face unique challenges this season because of a nationwide strike called on the final day to “shut down the country.”

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AN SOCIALITE WAS BRUTALLY MURDERED

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Last week, 28-year-old Abby Choi, a Hong Kong socialite and influencer, was found brutally murdered and dismembered.

Choi’s ex-husband Alex Kwong, his brother Anthony, and their father Kwong Kau are charged with her murder. Jenny Li, the mother of the Kwong brothers, has been charged with perverting the course of justice. On Monday, the Kowloon City Magistrates’ Court denied bail to all members of the Kwong family.

Police found Choi’s body parts and a pot of “human soup” filled with Choi’s remains at an apartment near Tai Po District’s Lung Mei Beach that the elder Kwong had begun renting a few weeks earlier, two days after Choi was reported missing.

BOTTEGA VENETA 2023

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Street style not from the extravagant, attention-seeking fashion species outside fashion shows, but from ordinary, arresting-looking people you might come across in your neighborhood just received a major stamp of approval from Bottega Veneta’s Matthieu Blazy, whose standing in the fashion landscape is on a meteoric trajectory. Continue reading →

MOSCHINO 2023 MILANO

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At Moschino the surrealism that is the DNA of the brand, is undeniably transformed into a new facet of the Italian label, with a spirit of rebellion for a Chanel-lisation of the brand the posh in the anarchic vision of the punk cool for bourgeoises walk in Milan.

PRONOUNCE RTW 2023

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Founded by Yushan Li and Jun Zhou, Shanghai-based Pronounce’s fall 2023 collection was inspired by Chinese oracle bone scripts and knots, two of humanity’s oldest ways of storing information.

The suits and coats of the Mao regime resembled bones dug up from the ground, while tops, trousers, and outerwear featured giant ancient Chinese characters.

Giant knots danced around the sweaters in red, white, and brown, and oversize decorative patterns were made by knotting.

They said the collection represents their reflection of the information overload of the digital age, and how looking back might be the best course of action.

Their instincts were correct. This collection offered a fresh take on Chinese culture that wasn’t cliché. For those seeking Chinese identity, the collection has it all, and for those looking for great clothes, the brand has a lot to offer.” Continue reading →

JW ANDERSON LONDON

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UNITED COLOR OF ANDERSON; Looking at his archives, Anderson added the colors and images created by one of his heroes, pioneering dancer and choreographer Michael Clark. (In 2004, he staged the Alexander McQueen fashion show, which was more of an artistic performance than a fashion Show)

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SIMONE ROCHA

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Simone Rocha used Lughnasadh in Westminster’s cavernous Central Methodist Hall yesterday. Models walked around the first level of the hall before carefully descending the ornate central staircase to skirt the rows below.  An ensemble of musicians performed a brooding, sometimes sinister, and very Celtic-sounding composition on stage.

You could imagine the venue’s founding fathers feeling aflutter as the looks unfolded and the soundtrack’s tempo gathered melodic urgency. The red ribbons that fell from the hair, garments, and sometimes eyes of certain models were meant to represent blood traditionally daubed on children’s faces to ward off ill spirits and bad luck.

Their ostensible primness and tumbled suggestion of their fabrication created a richly contradictory tension.

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DION LEE NEW YORK 2023

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Roots under my words, leaves at my fingertips, I dreamed of creating a lyrical lineage, but it will not be for today. There is an immutable rule in Fashion Week that the shows always start late and at Dion Lee’s show it is in an empty loft in midtown Manhattan that we have been waiting for 50 minutes, as if the designer had not finished this collection that has already started for over 6 months.

All his life as a designer he was a chronic latecomer, he missed his appointments with me, and yet when he dies we will agree to say that he left too early; the last straw! Here it is the party in New York, clud 54 and tutti quanti, and for a good reason the designer born of the largest island of Oceania has found a niche by creating what is practically an outfit for the Rave parties, Kangaroo obliges. Lee has a look always carried on the sex, its cuts not precise reveals the most often a body of model who is not perfect either.

Tight dresses, tank tops with puffed sleeves, mini skirts and jeans that are only a wear two even are legion. The collection was slightly more refined than that of Kim Shui without losing his identity on the fact that he is a cool person. And the stars he worships including Julia Fox and Ice Spice sitting in the front row, confirmed their disease of narcissus syndrome, and on the other side of the party people for a drug sex and iPhone Video until the end of the night. It is necessary to “fuck” the pressure.

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WILLIAMS MIDDLE FINGER FOR KANYE WEST

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Louis Vuitton appoints Pharrell Williams as creative director for men, you now have to be a thug, athlete or rapper to be a fashion designer, so why make fashion schools? Pharrell Irish name which means brave,  half black and not designer, after the achitechs the singers now!

In a bold move that confirms its positioning as a “cultural” brand, Louis Vuitton has appointed American Pharrell Williams as creative director of its men’s division. Yes, the one with the ridiculous glasses he wore at Chanel.

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