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LVMH SLEEP PEACEFULLY

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400 billion euros worth of ideas which follows President Xi Jinping’s decision to lift restrictions on COVID-19, LVMH Mot Hennessy Louis Vuitton says it is cautiously confident as 2023 approaches, but why?

After LVMH’s record results, Chairman and CEO Bernard Arnault said the signals from China were positive.

“I’m pretty confident that, because the Chinese leadership is very astute, they’re surely going to take advantage of the period that’s starting to revitalize Chinese growth. If that’s the case, and we saw signs of that in January, then we have every reason to be confident, even optimistic, about the Chinese market.”

According to the Forbes ranking, he and his family are the richest family in the world ahead of Tesla CEO Elon Musk, SpaceX CEO . During his speech, Bernard Arnault also mentioned that 5 billion euros of investments will be made in France, pointing out that “more than 500 stores and 100 craft production sites are located in the country.”
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A YOUNG MAN WITH A LOW POTENTIAL

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Charles de Vilmorin will preside the 38th Hyères Festival, a young man that the French fashion industry is trying to make us swallow whole!

The Hyères editon 2023 is placed under the sign of the nonentity. This year’s competition for young creation has chosen to entrust the presidency of its various juries to three young names in fashion and photography ; for the fashion category, Charles de Vilmorin.

In Paris, it was announced on Wednesday evening, January 25th, at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs. On this occasion, Jean-Pierre Blanc, the founder and general manager of the event, officially launched the 38th edition of the International Fashion and Photography Festival of Hyères, which will take place from October 12 to 15. He also announced the selected finalists and the jury members.

In addition to celebrating the centenary of the Villa Noailles, which hosts the event, a miracle is explained by the presence of most of the fashion actors who are opening their houses around St. Tropez for the summer.

Charles de Vilmorin, 26, has achieved a meteoric rise over the past three years and is probably the youngest designer to have been named to the famous competition’s fashion jury.

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IRIS VAN HERPEN 2023

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In one of the deepest pools, Iris Van Herpen’s otherworldly dresses, sometimes resembling sea creatures, found themselves submerged. With a filmed presentation, the Dutch designer invited French free diver Julie Gautier to interpret her spring haute couture collection with a powerful political message. Continue reading →

CHRONICLES OF NARNIA

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A spectacular display of Schiaparelli’s Surrealist aesthetic kicked off Paris Fashion Week. At the center of the firestorm were three outfits incorporating eerily realistic replicas of animal heads: a snow leopard, a lion and a wolf.

Shalom Harlow wore a snow leopard bustier dress, based on an archival 1938 design, while Irina Shayk wore a lion gown and Naomi Campbell wore a wolf coat. Some online commenters praised the reproductions’ artistry, while others accused the house of glamorizing trophy hunting.

The creatures were inspired by Dante’s “Inferno,” which provided the broad inspiration for the spring collection. However, the point was really Dante himself and this story about trial, tribulation, doubt, and the need to experience all of that in order to reach paradise,” the designer explained.

It’s understandable that Roseberry feels blank page anxiety after his creations were exhibited as part of Schiaparelli’s retrospective at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs. A strap dress shimmied with sequins made of tin covered in leather, while a bustier with a dramatically horned neckline quivered with ecru glass bugle beads. Continue reading →

LOEWE EXCITING NEXT

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It’s exciting to see Jonathan Anderson explore the unknown in menswear the void of Lavoisier.

The Loewe men’s show was stunning, challenging in its directness, unorthodox in its use of copper colors and pewter and vellum, and often chic in a strange way I thought I was a plumber.

In the midst of a fall season filled with tailored wool coats, Anderson’s were exceptional in their elasticity, and even more intriguing when cut a little looser and buttonless, with a deep V-shaped opening into which the mannequins rested an arm.

Several models wore white and red contact lenses, adding eerie and disturbing moments to the show, which was framed by three large-scale paintings by Julien Nguyen. The zombies are back.

Crewneck sweaters tightened at the side seams, creating bulbous shapes, while trench coats puffed up like dresses seen in old master paintings sponsored by Michelin. A silver top with a bulging hem contained sand to create a new “modular” shape. Continue reading →

VUITTON CHICAGO FIRE

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Somebody pinch Colm Dillane. Just 18 months after winning the runner-up award at the LVMH Prize for Young Designers, the Brooklyn, New York-based designer was at Paris Fashion Week to present the collection he codesigned for Louis Vuitton, the world’s biggest luxury brand.

Dillane, the founder and creative director of the KidSuper label, came to the table with a 500-page book of ideas, but Vuitton’s in-house team had already designed a large portion of the collection, which revolved loosely around the theme made in Chicago.

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GIVENCHIC BECOME GIVENCHEAP

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In terms of savoir-faire, what is the difference between a man’s suit so peerlessly tailored in a couture atelier that there are no outseams on the trousers, and a windbreaker or puffer jacket that is garment dyed, producing unpredictable, uneven color variations?

Is it one of Matthew M. Williams’ best Givenchy men’s collections to date, showing his range as a designer and combining innovation in tailoring and sportswear? Probably not.

YSL MALE SINGULAR

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In the soft gloom of the new flagship of the Kering Group, the spotlights reflected in the azure eyes of the models, and like a kiss that makes us shiver, Vaccarello, the magician, makes our souls shiver in a gesture so neutral that we are all surprised. A grand piano, in the middle of the large round room, installed there for the actress Charlotte Gainsbourg who plays on the keys of melancholy.

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PRADA UNCONVINCING OUTERWEAR

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In a Milan men’s season lacking in excitement, especially as Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons reinvent the ’70s pie collar

No applause broke out at the end of their sad Sunday show, an austere collection in a setting of Art Deco chandeliers was the only interesting thing about this show.

FENDI MADE IN LUXURY

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In a mesmerizing display, it was difficult to take one’s eye off the stunning show. Hand-painted, antique-finish leather coats, shearling jackets, and hand-woven cashmere totes stuffed with cashmere blankets, along with crocodile boots with Cuban heels.If your budget is less than five figures, you’re out of luck. Continue reading →

TATJANA PATITZ

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It would be necessary to speak in the language of Victor Hugo or Cornelius to describe the beauty.

In memory to TATJANA PATITZ (25 March 1966, Hamburg – January 2023), the German top model who achieved international prominence in the 1980s and 1990s representing fashion designers on runways and in magazines such as ‘Elle’, ‘Harper’s Bazaar’, and ‘Vogue’. Patitz was one of the big five supermodels who appeared in the 1990 music video “Freedom! ’90” by George Michael, and is associated with the editorial, advertising, and fine-art works of photographers Herb Ritts and Peter Lindbergh.

In the book ‘Models of Influence: 50 Women Who Reset The Course of Fashion’, author Nigel Barker reviewed Patitz’s career during the height of the supermodel era in the 1980s and 1990s, writing that she possessed an exoticism and broad emotional range that set her apart from her peers. Continue reading →

THE RED AND THE BLACK

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For those in the market for decidedly evening styles, the couturier delivered glamorous but believable fare, lining up draped goddess gowns, monochromatic sheath dresses, sequined suiting in changeant tones of aqua and purple. There was even another hoodie, this time dressed in silver and gold sequins.

MUGLER MIDNIGHT IN PARIS

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Mugler, the French house, plans to return to the Paris runway on Jan. 26 with a stronger presence. It has scheduled a presentation for 8 p.m. on Jan. 26 at La Villette, a vast cultural complex on the northeastern edge of Paris will parade a see now, buy now collection.

Paris couture week runs from Jan. 23 to 26 this season, and there are always a few ready-to-wear events at either end of the schedule. An immersive experience across all channels, and in front of a live audience, is what Mugler offers as a new concept. Mugler’s last live runway show was for fall 2020.

During lockdowns, Cadwallader produced three fast-paced films featuring special effects; fierce, body-baring fashions, and cameos from Megan Thee Stallion, Chloë Sevigny, Hunter Schafer and Shalom Harlow.

As the designer reflected on the power of film to engage wider audiences, he expressed some hesitation about returning to a simple runway show after the trilogy ended. Mugler has always been a popular brand and we didn’t want to keep the show only for the happy few, he added. Continue reading →

L’ACOSTE GLOBE-TROTTER

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After four years as Lacoste’s creative director, Louis Trotter is stepping down. In addition to directing the fashion show and general collections, Trotter contributed to the company’s shift toward women’s wear, lauding her “real consistency” in creating the company’s overall line.

She had joined the company in 2018, showing her first collection in February 2019 during Paris Fashion Week. Thierry Guibert praised Trotter’s creativity and commitment, as well as her contribution to Lacoste’s legacy.

Lacoste’s executive had noted Trotter’s contribution to the brand’s enduring sports casual identity during the opening of its Champs-Elysées flagship. An intimate presentation in Paris showcased her latest designs. In spring 2023, they will be available for purchase.

Lacoste is rethinking its creative approach, stating that it will take the form of “a collaborative studio model focused on a collective vision.” The brand will also be celebrating its 90th anniversary in 2023.

FURS FOR BIMBOS IT IS OVER

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Days before the end of 2022, a pop-up store displayed sable, chinchilla, mink, fox and other furs for 75 percent off.

Furs last retail outlet in California was the high-end Beverly Center, a large shopping complex adjacent to Beverly Hills. The shopping center was trying to sell as much merchandise as possible before the California Legislature passed a statewide fur ban on Jan.

Bimbos have been buying our furs here for years at 25 degrees, and this has killed our business. Fur opponents have spent years slowly whittling away at California’s fur business, and they win.

THEY QUIT THE FASHION INDUSTRY

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In November, Alessandro Michele bowed out as creative director of Gucci, stating that “there are times when paths part ways because of the different perspectives each one of us may have. Revenue at Gucci almost tripled during this seven-year tenure, from roughly $4 billion in 2015 to $10 billion in 2021 (27 billion RMB to 69 billion RMB) And no sale in the boujtique !

In December, Miuccia Prada and her husband Patrizio Bertelli resigned as co-CEOs of the Italian luxury fashion house group.

After a star-studded presentation of its Spring 23 collection, British luxury brand Burberry announced that its chief creative officer Riccardo Tisci would step down by the end of September.

In August, Kasper Rørsted announced he would be leaving his CEO post at the end of the year, well before his contract expires in 2026.  The news came shortly after Rørsted stated in an interview that “we made mistakes in China,” which quickly dominated global headlines and became a trending topic on Weibo. Indeed, Adidas has faced an onslaught of challenges since the pandemic.

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A DRAG QUEEN FACTORY

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As part of its commitment to supporting emerging talents, AZ Factory is hosting an event during Paris Couture Week to showcase the work of Tennessy Thoreson, a recent fashion school graduate.

Having pivoted to a platform for collaborations with guest creatives, or “amigos,” following the untimely death of its founder Alber Elbaz in 2021, AZ Factory is set to present what it bills as a “theatrical show” on Jan. 23 featuring 12 looks by Thoreson inspired.

Mauro Grimaldi met Thoreson at the Geneva University of Art and Design (HEAD) in November 2021, where Thoreson won both the Eyes on Talents award and the bachelor Bongénie Prize.

A member of the drag community, Thoreson exemplifies the ethos of smart fashion at AZ Factory. The designs will be available for custom order, with fittings to be held at AZ Factory’s Paris atelier at Fondation Cartier.