To close the Paris fashion shows, Vuitton decorated the Louvre’s Passage Richelieu with a sea of vintage chandeliers and told a story few have ever heard. The passage was used by Louis Vuitton himself to “reach the apartments of Empress Eugenie” the wife of Napoleon III “for whom he was the trunk maker.” Thanks to Nicolas for this kind invitation.
There are undoubtedly some paradoxes in wanting to deal with ethos in a century that has abundantly boasted of having liquidated the poetry of its vocabulary. In fact, the very term ethos refers first of all to contemplations, its cohort of outcasts, and all those Greek words swept away by the supposedly liberating breath of today’s society. This word is hardly used anymore in our country except as a mockery to indicate a pretentious and bloated style.
Life is like that and everything gives hope, because from its failures, from its pains, we keep the mortgage of our mistakes, and Carine Viard, each time a little more, advances to transform the brand with the two Cs, after a Karl thundering of radiation, she will finally shine in the shadow of the house.
The last dresses like butterflies, silk fans as Gérard de Nerval might have said, dresses that unfold in azure colors like the golden wings of Lepidoptera, tiny wings of sailboats mistreated by the wind, superfluous petals that wander through the gardens of the Champs-de-Mars and end the presentation in beauty.
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The Balenciaga show was riotously fun, blurring the lines between fashion and entertainment; thawing the icy, impassive image of the Balenciaga brand, and further solidifying Demna Gvasalia’s position as one of the industry’s most original and unpredictable thinkers.
The “Théâtre du Châtelet” had all the trappings of awards season in Hollywood: howling photographers, efficient handlers, and a steady stream of attention-seeking guests. All of this was broadcast inside the venue on a giant screen as if it were Césars, the night of the Césars, a kind of French Oscar, usually at the Chatelet theater . Continue reading
You can find everything at the Samaritaine! Including young talented designers who parade from the first to the last floor, under the applause of the public. Fashion comes down to the street with men and women of the street (non-professional models)! This sacrosanct Fashion Week, this cenacle asleep and protected by some to remain in dark rooms hyperprotected for VIPs where everything sells so quickly that nothing is sold in the stores because they are empty of creation and meaning. Dgena, yesterday afternoon, brought fashion to the street, in Les Halles, the epicenter of youth, under “La Canopée” that young people want to protect at all costs and on the square of the last jewel of the Lord of Arnault, the young designer presented the last 20 models from Upcycling.
The originality of this one: all the pieces created are from overcycling, more commonly called “Upcycling” (end of rolls, fabric scraps, building tarpaulins, clothes found in resourceries, including clothes from individuals) and made in the luxury standards of Haute Couture. With this collection, Dgena shows that it is possible to make Luxury with existing clothes and materials, donated or from the recovery . Continue reading
The Chloé fashion show, carried out by its new artistic director, Gabriela Hearst was held on the banks of the Seine at the Port de la Tournelle, next the restaurant the “Cheval Blanc” owned by the Lord of Arnault. Walking down the quay of the Pont de la Cité, the clouds chased by the breeze and cleaned from the rats by the city, for the circumstance, we waited quietly as “baliste” ready to shoot. I see a small swallow twirling back into town, then the noise calms down around us. On the Seine, hardly a wave, and the show begins for Gabriela who is not Mistral, not more Neruda, the educated will understand.
Long and ample silhouettes, dresses in raw silk of cream color, fringed like the Indian “komants” or Comanches, which means “those who always fight”. So the devil is in the details, like these hand-painted glazed ceramic buttons or these laces-fringes, recovered from sneakers, decorated with stones and metal parts, a way to tell us that here we recycle and we take care of the planet. We always recognize the degree of a civilization at the way it does not pollute its environment Continue reading
Tiffany’s Blue Book collection, called Colors of Nature, offers collectors rare stones sourced from every corner of the globe.
Fir tree-colored emeralds, a 95-carat melo melo pearl hailing from a poodle-sized snail in the South China Sea and red diamonds so rare that a stone barely surpassing the one-carat mark is priced well within the seven-figure range: these are elements of Tiffany & Co.’s new Blue Book collection, its annual release of exceptional high jewel. Continue reading
Saint Laurent is finally back on the official Paris Fashion Week schedule . The Eiffel Tower is a finger pointing to the sky, a universal beacon to make the group of the Prince of Venice sparkle, it was Tuesday night at the Trocadero. The tower indifferent to the cycles that give rhythm to elegance, this may explain it, standing like a spear it crosses the centuries, a sign certainly for St Laurent.
Frosty glamour is perhaps the best way to describe Vaccarello’s severe, polished brand of chic, this season hinged on mannish, square-shouldered jackets, skimpy disco catsuits and evening gowns and dresses with the shrugged-on ease of a polo shirt.
Big sunglasses, leather gloves and major gold jewelry heightened the 1980s allure and winked to Paloma Picasso, whose theatrical sense of dress a turban and big gemstones here, an austere bustier gown there was said to have inspired house founder Yves Saint Laurent and nudged his creativity out of bourgeois codes. Continue reading
For the first major show of Paris Fashion Week after the covid, the Dior women’s wear designer transformed a tent in the Tuileries gardens into a ‘60s-era nightclub, with a multilevel circular stage where a live band played Italian disco music, and models stood until it was their turn to walk.
Vault is a programming tool that allows you to create, manage and store project-specific secrets. Alessandro Michele loves the word so much it’s the name he has given to Gucci’s new online concept store. “It’s such a pregnant word,” he enthuses. “It can be pregnant with everything you know.” He is certainly doing his best to guarantee that Vault arrives with a bellyful of wonders. “An online storage of beautiful things,” he calls it, like a virtual
Vault, which launches Saturday, is described by Gucci as “a time machine, an archive, a library, a laboratory, and a meeting place.” It is also the latest manifestation of Michele’s appetite for experimentation.
A time machine has always been my dream. Not so much for Michele, though he admits he would really love to have “a beautiful dinner or maybe just a quick coffee” with Federico Fellini and Anna Magnani. In fact welcome to the twilight zone.
After 20 years, the show is back to his original theater at 11 Via Borgonuovo, an underground space at his storied headquarter where he showed his collections every season until he opened the new Tadao Ando-designed theater across town in 2001. Continue reading
Puglisi went wild with the tiger theme, perhaps a little too wild with the wicked, claw-like heels on pumps and the gorgeous metallic brocades that were slashed to smithereens. The designer cited a slipdress from the early Aughts worn by by Cindy Crawford as the springboard for the spring 2022 collection. Continue reading
Kim Jones since joining Fendi a year ago has fully embraced the family, the brand’s DNA and its entire heritage, including the rich and unprecedented contribution of the late Karl Lagerfeld, who designed the fur and ready-to-wear for the Roman house. -to -wear for 54 years. Continue reading
It’s raining men and cats in Victoria Beckham. The spirit of escape and vacation, the joy of slipping into his suitcase, the shirt of his partner thrown on his swimsuit to leave on vacation again and again … A jacket tucked into suit pants, I like the idea that a couple can share their clothes in the right way, she who has the Bac and the Ham at the same time. The green atmosphere has virtues, because it allows to solicit the right and left hemispheres of the brain at the same time, to concentrate on something creative. But green is also the color of chance, of fate.
It represents what changes, what is not stable. Therefore, it represents both luck and bad luck. The gaming tables in casinos are covered with a green carpet, so that the players captivated by the game remain focused. Continue reading
The Italians are rebelling, and by not wanting to give in to the group of Lord Arnault, mark a turning point in acquisitions. It would have been brilliant for LVMH, to continue to build progressively its portfolio of high-end wines, which did not yet have any Italian brands worthy of the name. Banfi is a vineyard. “It is known as the hop”, this great wine of Tuscany. An ideal brand for the Lord’s group, associated with a historic castle, the cornerstone of the image of authentic luxury that the group seeks to spread to sell the story of history. Continue reading
An English designer with an encyclopaedic knowledge of fabric who’s worked for years with Kim Jones both at Dior and Louis Vuitton before that—had a whole other dimension of deep British history on his mind.
The French Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode has published the final version of the official schedulen finally, with a number of changes as usual. The return of Saint Laurent, the first big house to step away from preset schedules to set its own pace for collections during the pandemic, who says goodbye to the Venice views and desert vistas to return with an 8 p.m. show on Sept. 28 at the new museum of the businessman Pinault.
It joins returnees Balenciaga, Loewe, Maison Margiela and Valentino among the big names that have decided to return their collections to Paris this season. Couturier Alexandre Vauthier has moved the reveal of his latest ready-to-wear offering to a bright and early 9 a.m. on Oct. 2. Continue reading
The subtle aesthetic changes in Apple’s latest collection of iPhones, iPads and Watch hold no carrot for a fashion set that craves newness.
But the company, which held its virtual “California streaming” product announcement on Tuesday, is betting that its beefy camera upgrades and other under-the-hood improvements will keep its smartphones in high demand. Continue reading
Despite the ridiculous gestures more incongruous than couture, at Carolina Herrera the task does not matter as long as you have drunk. But it is true that with “Gordon who did not invent the Gin”, the creation and the filiform girls follow each other and look alike, these thin as nails, never make me hammer. “My eye is used to seeing beautiful things” he likes to say, he comes from Chicago Illinois, and builds dresses like the buildings of the city of Al Capone. If you attended the last presentation of his collection in New York, we had trouble seeing the beautiful and sublime being non-existent! A color palette of stains and gingham a la Tati, on suits that set the tone of a collection not very shiny.
Far, very far from this young boy so charming who, at the time, gave us his copy without inhibition. We thought then that his age would outweigh his youth to become a real designer, but it is not so. We have before us the finest example of couture cheating, imitation and false art, as well as the triumph of failure, the apotheosis of puffism. Continue reading
We are in the midst of a innerwear-as-outerwear, shorter-tighter, fetish-fashion moment the likes of which we haven’t seen since the ’90s. Making her New York Fashion Week debut Saturday morning at the Boom Boom Room, fittingly, Los Angeles-based Maisie Wilen designer Maisie Schloss was here for it. Continue reading
Did you know that onomatopoeia makes words from a sound? Coquelicot, which appeared in the 16th century, is derived from cocorico, because the red flower is reminiscent of a rooster’s crest. Click, which in 1306 meant “to make a dry noise” had disappeared from the French language. It came back in 1980, reported by the English as “To click” to designate the use of the computer mouse. But there are many other terms derived from onomatopoeia such as chuintement, claque, hibou, hiccup or even zézaiement…
Over the course of time, we will also discover that words are sometimes taken from proper names. As early as the 16th century, the “truism”, in other words “an obvious fact that is unnecessarily specified”, was known. It comes from Jacques de la Palissade, who had nothing to do with this posthumous glory. Continue reading
The Lord’s newest recruit, the oh-so-creative Rihanna, is getting ready for her next show. After making men’s and women’s jackets, she’s moved on to lingerie. The muse entrepreneur announced on Thursday that she will present “Savage x Fenty Show Vol. 3” on September 24 on Amazon Prime Video.
Sharing the news on her Instagram with a video of her dressed in various pieces of “Klein blue” lingerie with the caption, “Oh, you think you’re ready?”. Bottle green eyes and breasts at “half mast”, it is said that at the bank in Zurich, the banker asks her: “How much does she want to deposit? Three million,” the Barbadian whispers, not wanting to be noticed. “You can speak up,” the banker replies. “Here in Switzerland, poverty is not a shame.
The fashion show will include a previously unknown “line-up of models, stars and artists”. Past celebrities have included Paris Krypton, Cara Two Lines, Rosalía land, Bella Indead , Demi Maure, Big Sin and Normani, a beautiful blonde who believes that synovial effusion is the son of Sy Novial. Continue reading
For bimbos who look at themselves for hours on end, it’s easy to find flaws that they can focus on with their mono-neurons. Moreover, the selfie has made this practice, which seems to have been initiated by plastic surgeons, more and more common. The myth of Narcissus or the complex of teeth and their alignment are part of these new obsessions of the great horizontals of the planet, and men are not left out. Continue reading
Gabrielle Chanel’s lucky number was five, for Karl Lagerfeld it was seven, and for Riccardo Tisci it is 17. That’s apparently why he puts that number on his T-shirts and at the end of his Instagram handle. This is the tip of the iceberg, because when it comes to superstition in the fashion industry, fortune tellers, fortune tellers, lucky talismans and even shamans have been around for ages. Friday the 13th is still considered a bad luck day.
Irrational beliefs with supernatural influences that would be at the origin of the perfume of the late Alber Elbaz; created in 2017 and named “Superstitious”. Former Dior designer Gianfranco Ferré never included a No. 17 look in his collections. It was always 16 bis, which is also why four-leaf clovers and evil eye motifs became so popular in his jewellery collections.
Superstitions in fashion, say psychologists, are due to a predisposition especially to people in insecure situations. Fashion is an industry that goes through ups and downs; you can be the star of the catwalk one day and totally out of favour the next. Part of the superstition comes from a lack of autonomy and anxiety, and people in the fashion industry think it helps them to choose when to present their collection. Continue reading
