THE LUXURY DEPRESSION

As organic sales momentum slows even more than initially expected and visibility on a potential rebound in luxury sales in China is really low, the French group is increasing its prices.

Over the summer, luxury consumption remained strong only in Japan, driven by Chinese tourism, while the Chinese cluster slowed down, the US cluster did not improve as much as expected and Europe delivered a mixed picture.

On the continent, many consumers have adopted a wait-and-see attitude, victims of “greedflation” and price increases by many brands after COVID-19 “simply because they could get away with it rather than simply because they were a reflection of inflationary pressures. Is there a glimmer of hope at the end of the tunnel for the luxury sector?

DI PETSA 2025 LONDON

The story was filled with love, friendship, sun, sea, and magical realism. Every detail was written in her journal, then translated into her show, which is always more of a performance art than a way to sell clothes.

Artworks created by the designer dotted the venue. Petsa created the paintings as votive offerings to her summer loves, some platonic, some erotic. Petsa smiled backstage as she said, “You can discover me through my creations.”

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NEW YORK FASHION WEEK

Manhattan was the big attraction of New York Fashion Week for Spring 2025. The city itself has established itself as one of the world’s leading fashion hubs, much like the Paris Olympics. Designers of all nationalities and backgrounds have chosen iconic locations to stage their shows, placing the city at the very heart of the season’s collections.
The Big Apple was the big attraction of New York Fashion Week for Spring 2025, with 200 shows in the Big Apple, it remains, along with Milan, the Best Fashion Weeks on the planet.

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LAQUAM SMITH 2025 NEW YORK

This poetic monster is one of those animals that are generally called “MY HONEY!” that is to say a woman with a husband chained to his legitimate wife like a beast, and looks longingly at the menu that he will never have, here is the brief summary of the collection of Monsieur Smith.

Close to spring 2024 with its mini-skirts and the super crop top, in a style the size of a postage stamp, in vinyl and leather with double belt, St-Tropez 1970 style. This throwback by Laquan-Smith has become a viral success on the “sail” of St Tropez of course, adding a touch of neo-preppy chic for femininity on all floors. Of sophisticated woman with casual suits, with a touch of asphalt on vacation plunging neckline to seduce males over 50 years old Rolex on the wrist, in short those who have succeeded in life.

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KORS A CLASSIC BAG DRESS

“It’s a rustic opulence,” Kors said during a preview of his spring 2025 collection, summing up a seasonal trend as only he can. The designer’s mood board featured shots of romantic Mediterranean beaches.

So there were winning classics with artisanal, Italian-made extras, like a dark denim circle skirt hand-embroidered with denim flower petals, a statement beige “lace” pencil skirt crafted from leather sequins, and a black double-face cashmere T-shirt and skirt set studded with raffia pinwheels that rustled as they moved. Calais lace is back on the runways, and so is glamour, finally!

The designer better known for his bags than his dresses is making waves in New Yorkand, admittedly, this is Manhattan. Dresses that could have come straight out of the Netflix series Mad Men.

A FECAL MATTER INFLUENCER

A Fecaloid woman, and for those who read me, a bimbo named Fecal Matter! Incredible, right? Here is the scatological letter from Madame Palatine, sister-in-law of Louis XIV, great-grandmother of Marie-Antoinette! So, you can imagine that scatological texts are not reserved solely for this new generation.

“You are very happy to go shit whenever you want. So shit all your dog drunk. We are not the same here, where I am obliged to keep my turd for the evening. There is no rubbing (toilet) in the houses on the forest side. I have the misfortune of living in one, and consequently, the sorrow of going to shit outside, which annoys me, because I like to shit at my leisure, and I don’t shit at my leisure when my ass is not touching anything. Everyone sees us shitting; men, women, girls, boys, abbots and Swiss people pass by. You see by that that no pleasure without pain, and that, if we didn’t shit, I would be in Fontainebleau like a fish in water.”

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PHILLIP LIM NEW YORK 2025

Phillip Lim was born out of a friendship between founders Phillip Lim and Wen Zhou, pioneers of affordable luxury, with the goal of bringing an innovative, refined and chic wardrobe to the modern global citizen.

The designer and entrepreneur were pioneers in the field of affordable luxury, with the goal of bringing an innovative, refined and chic wardrobe to the modern global citizen, especially in China.

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SARAH BURTON THE McQUEEN GIRL

Kering said Burton would be leaving the house where she has served as creative director since 2010. Her final show for the brand will be spring 2024.

Sarah Burton has been named Givenchy’s new creative director, and she will show her first designs in March 2025. The acclaimed Burton, who spent her entire career at Alexander McQueen, becomes the French maison’s eighth designer since it was founded in 1952.

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CAMPBELL AGAINST WINTOUR

Instead of starting late like awards shows usually do, the Harlem Fashion Row Show and Style Awards got off to a brisk start Tuesday night at Grant’s Tomb, and it didn’t matter if Wintour was there or not!

Harlem Fashion Row founder Brandice Daniel encouraged the hundreds of attendees to support Black designers by dedicating at least 10 percent of their clothing and home decor purchases to their designs “to create change in the industry.” She also noted that Black consumers’ purchasing power for clothing and footwear is expected to reach $70 billion by 2030, making it easier to see LVMH’s risk-taking with Pharelle Williams. Continue reading

MILLION GOLD A REAL GOLD MINE

it’s out after 5 years of hard work from Rabanne teams and Puig teams Million Gold fronted by the divine Gigi Hadid, to the hypnotic sound of Beyoncé Pure/Honey.

or the top notes, the sparkling rose sees its green facet and its shine nuanced by lavender and a luminous pear accord. To anchor the perfume, finally, a mineral musk, accompanied by moss and vanilla. Million Gold for Her evokes the ecstatic energy that intoxicates you with gold. A perfume mixing a bouquet of intensely feminine white flowers, a sparkling rose and an addictive mineral musk.

After millions in all sauces, here comes gold, for the Puig group a real gold mine.

GAME SET AND DIAMS

For the second year in a row, LVMH Mot Hennessy Louis Vuitton is opening a pop-up shop at the USTA Billie Jean King National Tennis Center. The pop-up will be open through September.

The pop-up celebrates Tiffany Co.’s heritage in crafting sports trophies. There will be replicas of the U.S. Open Men’s and Women’s Singles Championship Trophies that the fine jeweler has crafted since 1987. The trophies are created by expert silversmiths at Tiffany & Co.’s workshop in Cumberland, R.I.

There will also be a unique Elsa Peretti Diamonds by the Yard tennis racket displayed with a leather cover painted by artisans using the ancient Japanese technique called “inden.” Continue reading

BETTY PASSED AWAY AT 96

Betty Halbreich, died Saturday in Manhattan she was 96. In addition to her discerning eye and impeccable taste, she charmed the many celebrity and typically affluent shoppers she met regularly, as well as her colleagues, and was considered an institution at Bergdorf Goodman. A native of Chicago, Halbreich was also a best-selling author.

She joined Bergdorf’s as a sales associate in 1976. The store created a personal shopping office for her upon her suggestion. Bergdorf Goodman, which is part of the Neiman Marcus Group, continues to maintain one of the strongest reputations in the retail industry for lavish, high-touch service.

During her long tenure at Bergdorf Goodman, Halbreich won the praise of fashion designers, celebrities, and loyal clients for her decisive and honest approach to getting dressed, beginning with her first client, style icon Babe Paley. Funny and cultured, she represented the best of America in the kingdom of the Big Apple. May his soul rest in peace.

VIKTOR & ROLF 2024

“Haute Abstraction” rather than “Haute Couture” was in the ballroom of the InterContinental Paris hotel; an appearance of a couture sketch, with sharp angles and cubic volumes for a “hippopo-tala-nunuche” square, and a triangle for the bimbo next to me, a short “Origine du Monde” mini-skirt, which cooked like a well-known perfume store. You know this kind of machine to suffocate you.

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WHEN MARCO POLO VISITED CATHAY

Sephora is cutting jobs in China, the LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton-owned company confirmed on Wednesday. The beauty retailer, which has operated in China since 2004, is cutting its workforce by 3%, or about 120 jobs, amid a slowing economy in China, which is not a major issue for a population of 1.4 billion.

Given the challenging market environment, the company is streamlining its organizational structure to ensure long-term sustainable growth in China. Over the past two years, Sephora has launched Anastasia Beverly Hills, Hourglass and Tatcha in China, to positive reviews. The launches of Drunk Elephant and Fenty came in May, but were less popular.

But one of the things about China is that when it comes back, you have to be nimble, and it will come back very quickly. It was reported earlier this week that Estée Lauder Cos. expects further declines in prestige beauty in China next year, while North America is also weakening.

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NO MORE TED BAKER IN UK

All Ted Baker UK stores will close permanently this week in the UK. Teneo administrators who oversaw the business formerly run by Ted Baker partner No Ordinary Designer Label (which collapsed earlier this year) will be responsible for closing the remaining 31 stores. But when I see the quality of my wife’s tot bag, it doesn’t really surprise me.

The owner of the Ted Baker brand, Authentic Brands Group, said there were no ongoing negotiations with the company, so the negotiations broke down.

It is also unclear what will happen now and whether Ted Baker could return to the streets under the leadership of a new licensing partner.

About 500 jobs are expected to be added to the 245 jobs lost earlier when 15 stores closed earlier this year.

FASHION AND THE LOUVRE

The storied Paris museum Le Louvre will host some of the late German designer’s haute couture and Métiers d’art creations for Chanel in January. It is the first time the Louvre has created an exhibition about fashion and its own collections. After catwalk on the top of the Louvre, here is fashion that is entering under the pyramid.

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THE ACTRESSES’ SCULPTURE

The idea of ​​an actress over 70 years old continuing to work under the surgeon’s knife is a reflection of the social pressures placed on women, particularly in the fashion and entertainment industry. These pressures often emphasize the need to remain young and attractive to maintain a career, even in old age, like Diane Keaton who no one can recognize anymore.

A sort of social movement of the void where society imposes a standard of eternal youth, particularly for women. Actresses are frequently forced to undergo surgical procedures to match unrealistic beauty standards and remain competitive in the job market. So, we continue to see “Naomie Pabelle”, “Claudia Chou-fleur”, and “Laetitia Casse-toi” on the catwalks of the big Fashion family.

It is not only a matter of personal choice, but also a response to the expectations of the industry and the public. There is an underlying critique of ageism and sexism in this world in which older men are usually valued for their experience and maturity, while women are judged on their appearance. In truth, if I had the choice, I would rather sleep with the “Cauliflower” than the man from Toledo.

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THE MAN FROM GIBRALTAR COULD WAIT

He was fired from Dior in a row and returned to Fendi as quickly as the “Parker” probe. As such, the return of the prodigal son, to the group of the lord of lords, was predictable. And even if Baudelaire, to create, drank “l’asbtreinte”, the man from Toledo, like a good sectarian, was very wrong about him, and rather than disgracing him, he should have had him treated with his addictions, for a redemption, that everyone would have understood.

“John”’s last collection for “Margiela” was like a call: the new look revisited to show the lord that not only was he cured, but that he was still just as creative. He is the man of couture excesses and excesses of all kinds, but like Verlaine or Apollinaire, to fight against absence, you sometimes have to surround yourself with lost paradises. Continue reading

BURBERRY A AMERICAN IN LONDON

The British luxury group Burberry announced this Monday the replacement of its managing director Jonathan Akeroyd, after the publication of new “disappointing performances” from a group which has suffered for months from the slowdown in demand for high-end products.

Jonathan Akeroyd, a 57-year-old Briton who arrived just over two years earlier, “resigns and leaves the company with immediate effect by mutual agreement with the Board of Directors,” Burberry announced in a press release.

He will be replaced on Wednesday by Joshua Schulman, a 52-year-old American, former boss of the American brands Michael Kors and Coach or the luxury department store Bergdorf Goodman, but also of Jimmy Choo in London, also passed during his career by Yves Saint Laurent and Gucci.