FENTY NAKED AND CULLOTATED

The Lord’s newest recruit, the oh-so-creative Rihanna, is getting ready for her next show. After making men’s and women’s jackets, she’s moved on to lingerie. The muse entrepreneur announced on Thursday that she will present “Savage x Fenty Show Vol. 3” on September 24 on Amazon Prime Video.

Sharing the news on her Instagram with a video of her dressed in various pieces of “Klein blue” lingerie with the caption, “Oh, you think you’re ready?”. Bottle green eyes and breasts at “half mast”, it is said that at the bank in Zurich, the banker asks her: “How much does she want to deposit? Three million,” the Barbadian whispers, not wanting to be noticed. “You can speak up,” the banker replies. “Here in Switzerland, poverty is not a shame.

The fashion show will include a previously unknown “line-up of models, stars and artists”. Past celebrities have included Paris Krypton, Cara Two Lines, Rosalía land, Bella Indead , Demi Maure, Big Sin and Normani, a beautiful blonde who believes that synovial effusion is the son of Sy Novial. Continue reading

A SMILE NAMED DESIRE

For bimbos who look at themselves for hours on end, it’s easy to find flaws that they can focus on with their mono-neurons. Moreover, the selfie has made this practice, which seems to have been initiated by plastic surgeons, more and more common. The myth of Narcissus or the complex of teeth and their alignment are part of these new obsessions of the great horizontals of the planet, and men are not left out. Continue reading

SUPERSTITION MODE

Gabrielle Chanel’s lucky number was five, for Karl Lagerfeld it was seven, and for Riccardo Tisci it is 17. That’s apparently why he puts that number on his T-shirts and at the end of his Instagram handle. This is the tip of the iceberg, because when it comes to superstition in the fashion industry, fortune tellers, fortune tellers, lucky talismans and even shamans have been around for ages. Friday the 13th is still considered a bad luck day.

Irrational beliefs with supernatural influences that would be at the origin of the perfume of the late Alber Elbaz; created in 2017 and named “Superstitious”. Former Dior designer Gianfranco Ferré never included a No. 17 look in his collections. It was always 16 bis, which is also why four-leaf clovers and evil eye motifs became so popular in his jewellery collections.

Superstitions in fashion, say psychologists, are due to a predisposition especially to people in insecure situations. Fashion is an industry that goes through ups and downs; you can be the star of the catwalk one day and totally out of favour the next. Part of the superstition comes from a lack of autonomy and anxiety, and people in the fashion industry think it helps them to choose when to present their collection. Continue reading

PARIS FASHION GEEK 2022

The next “Paris Fashion Week” will count 92 houses including: “Paul Smith”, a Frenchman from the “perfidious Albion”, and “Raf Simonstre”, who are making their comeback on the official calendar of the Federation of Haute Couture and Fashion, having no one else to invite but old-timers! Nine days of presentation, from Monday 27 September to Tuesday 5 October, will take place in the traffic jams of the Magot Queen. To begin with, a must-see Kenneth Ize, the Austrian-Nigerian designer and finalist of the Lord’s Prize, and the season will end with a dead man, Albert Elbaz, with a show of his very young fashion house AZ Factory, but between dead men, they recognize each other.

The other Christian Dior, Balmain, Hermès, Balenciaga, Givenchy, Chanel, Miu Miu and Louis Vuitton will be organising shows in person, but only the Florentines, shoe-shiners and Instagrammers will be invited for a return to the shows of yesteryear on the sly, and at this word alone, the bimbos will say: “Catimini, I love Italian cars”. Don’t forget the Fringant flop, which judges fashion in one minute. Continue reading

IN FRONT OF PARIS MILAN FASHION WEEK

In the past few seasons and despite the pandemic Milan Fashion Week has quietly but increasingly become a launchpad for several emerging names, under the lead of the Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana, which has spearheaded a series of initiatives to enhance its mentoring role.

As much as the direct-to-consumer business model is mining the appeal, especially business-wise, of international fashion shows, there is still a slew of young designers who are sticking to the format in hopes that showcasing their collections within the frame of established fashion weeks can boost their appeal and global resonance.

Once deemed as dormant or at least less exciting than Paris, especially during the men’s season, the showcase has been able to attract new names, not only supporting Italian creatives but also drawing designers from all continents. Continue reading

VUITTON 200 YEARS AGO

Two hundred years after his birth, the Vuitton company is marking the milestone in ways its founder never could have imagined, including a video game with embedded NFTs, a documentary on Apple TV, window installations, artworks, and social media activations galore.

Media is evolving so quickly that every time there’s a new way of communicating, you have to tell your story all over again, said Michael Burke, chairman and chief executive officer of Vuitton. Generations are now defined by technology, not by age.

Vuitton Louis setting off from the tiny town of Anchay in eastern France at age 13. And yet the life story of Vuitton, who eventually reached Paris and apprenticed at renowned trunk maker and packer Romain Maréchal, contains many universal business truths, including the necessity of taking risks, of staying close to the customer, and of passing the baton to the next generation at the right time. Continue reading

MOSCHINO FULL CONTROL

Aeffe SpA on Wednesday revealed that it was raising its stake in Moschino to take full control of the brand. Aeffe shares closed up 6.38 percent at 1.60 euros at the end of trading.

Aeffe already controls the Alberta Ferretti, Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini and Pollini labels. “Moschino is strategic for us and this is an important step in our medium-long term growth strategy, Aeffe’s executive chairman Massimo Ferretti told . Having full control over the Moschino brand, we are now in the best conditions to manage all activities related to the brand’s value chain, from product to quality and with positive effects on image, distribution and communication.

The acquisition will allow Aeffe to take action in a more powerful way, and will help integrate all of the women's apparel collections into Aeffe. We will be able to manage the brand autonomously and decide its strategic positioning, explained Ferretti.

Aeffe’s manufacturing plant is in San Giovanni in Marignano, near the beach town of Italy’s Cattolica, on the Adriatic Sea. Continue reading

WELCOME TO THE BUBBLE OF…

Consumers still appear willing to spend lavishly on luxury clothes and accessories, even as markets reopen and other activities like restaurants and travel compete for their discretionary dollars.

The world’s biggest luxury group, which owns 75 brands ranging from Dom Pérignon Champagne to Bulgari jewelry, said its fashion and leather goods, or FLG, division was once again the star performer in the second quarter, FLG activities posted sales of 7.13 billion euros in the three months to June 30, up 40 percent on an organic basis versus the same quarter in 2019, reflecting the resilience of star brands Louis Vuitton and Dior. Continue reading

FIVE BEACH BOOKS ON PERFUME

Le Dictionnaire Amoureux du Parfum, by Elisabeth de Feydeau

From Adam and Eve to Chanel N°5, from the still to orientalism, the historian Elisabeth de Feydeau, who has already written many books on perfume, wanted to add a novelistic dimension to the words and characters she tells. Historical references and unpublished anecdotes are combined in this book, which reads almost more like a short story than a dictionary.

Editions Plon, 27 €.

Les 5 parfums de notre histoire, by Laure Margerand

No, this is not a book about the five most mythical fragrances, but a novel. An olfactory novel about anosmia and the quest for a taste for life after a family tragedy. Bonus: a bookmark with 6 scents linked to key moments in the story. A card with repositionable stickers designed by Arcade Beauty and put in smell by the perfumer Irène Farmachidi of TechnicoFlor.

Editions J’ai lu, €19.90 Continue reading

FRAGONARD LE ROUGE BERNARD

Fragonard, this month it opened a guest house, called Maison Fragonard, at 7/9 Rue du Palais in Arles with six bedrooms in three apartments each spanning one floor.

Three years ago, Agnès Webster, who serves as chief executive officer of Fragonard, and her sister purchased a collection of traditional Arlésien costumes from a friend of their mother's. They’d decided to create a museum to display them in an old mansion there, and then thought to open a 1,290-square-foot boutique in a house of numerous floors, also in Arles.

They had an idea for the floors above the shop: to make guest rooms that would serve the sisters when they were in town but otherwise be guest rooms decorated to show the brand’s art de vivre and interior decor. Continue reading

A Mc QUEEN MEN’S 2022

Sarah Burton took the Romantic poet, painter and printmaker William Blake as her inspiration this season, filling the collection with ruffles, shredded tulle and pastel prints inspired by the artist’s work.

The designer said she wanted to “draw on the concept of imagination as a pure form of escapism,” and said the collection was based around lightness, air and water, “and on beauty emerging from darkness.”

Her man has rarely had such feminine flair, what with the single, asymmetric ruffle tumbling down the front of a printed cotton blouse; the long skirts with frills made from shredded tulle, and the tuxedo jackets with shoulders that looked as if they’d been slashed by a swashbuckler’s sword.

KRIS WU INFLUENCESEX

Several brands, including Louis Vuitton, Bulgari and Porsche, have cut ties with top Chinese Canadian singer-actor Kris Wu as controversial claims surrounding his personal life emerged on Chinese social media over the weekend. A young woman who said she’d dated the pop star accused him of targeting young and sometimes underage females for sex. Continue reading

TRACY MAKEUP ARTIST

Eyes dressed up in colorful hues had a moment during the recent winter 2021 couture season. For Armani Privé Couture, Linda Cantello swathed models’ eyelids in an eggshell blue.

To conjure up ideas for the beauty look for Alexis Mabille’s couture presentation, the designer presented makeup artist Lloyd Simmonds the clothes and set for the video and photos.

“My first reaction was that I needed to create something graphic and sharp to unify the different geometries of the clothes,” said Simmonds. “Secondly, I needed to use color in a simple way to intensify each girl in the brightly colored background.

Peepers popped at other brands’ displays this season, too, such as Off-White, Schiaparelli, RVDK Ronald Van Der Kemp and Viktor & Rolf. Continue reading

VALENTINO 2022

Fashion is not art,” believes Valentino’s creative director Pierpaolo Piccioli. “Fashion always has a practical scope while art is an end in itself.” Ateliers couture collection shown in Venice on Thursday, as 22 out of the 82 designs on the runway.

Andrea Respino inspired a stunning intarsia coat almost trompe l’oeil, said Piccioli made of 150 different swatches of fabrics, from satin to taffeta, laminated and sequined. One could catch glimpses of the painting on the front of the garment, while the back was conceived with the help of Respino, responding with his own creativity to the design.

Another standout was a long, glittering sequined slipdress worn under a floor-length, taffeta bouillonné cape with a pattern reminiscent of poetic images of the moon reflected on a lake by Chinese art curator and photographer Rui Wu.

Fashion and art are creative practices that respond to different purposes one linked to the body and movement, the other completely free from constraints of sorts which nevertheless find a conjunction in the atelier: the place of making, of thinking with the hands, of translating a desire, an idea, a sensation into a tangible object. Continue reading

PHOEBE PHILO AND THE LORD

Phoebe Philo is returning to fashion with an independent, namesake house and with LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton as a investor.

The acclaimed British designer would create clothing and accessories "rooted in exceptional quality and design," and would divulge more details about her new brand in January 2022.

With a powerful silent partner LVMH. I have greatly appreciated discussing new ideas with Bernard Arnault and Delphine Arnault and I am delighted to be embarking on this adventure with their support.

The designer has been keeping a low profile since exiting Celine at the end of 2017. In one of her first public projects, she signed on to be a juror for the 2021 ANDAM awards, which were presented in Paris earlier this month.

It is unusual, though not unprecedented, for LVMH to back a new brand. Its core expertise lies in animating heritage brands like Louis Vuitton, Dior and Fendi with buzzy designers, celebrity ambassadors, retail razzmatazz and spectacular press and client events. Continue reading

BALENCIAGA 2022

Fifty-three years have passed since cristóbal balenciaga closed the doors of his house, largely due to the birth of ready-to-wear, which questioned the raison d’être for the concept of haute couture.

over half a century later i see it as my creative obligation to the unique heritage of m. balenciaga to bring the couture back to his house. it is the very foundation of this century-old maison.

couture is above trends, fashion, and industrial dressmaking. it is a timeless and pure expression of craft and the architecture of silhouette that gives a wearer the strongest notion of elegance and sophistication.

couture is the highest level of garment construction, that is not only relevant in today’s mass-productive industry, but even absolutely necessary for the survival and further evolution of modern fashion design.