Last season was the long-awaited start, the big bang of colors, patterns, and new shapes, but spring is a blank slate.

Burberry is under pressure and Lee, known for his golden touch with accessories, has spent the last few months refining his approach and putting his vision forward. A collection of silver and gold accessories, motorcyclist swagger and touches of medieval heraldry with a strong commercial connotation graced the catwalk on Monday.

There were some moments of British eccentricity in the collections, but the underlying principle was classicism.

Silk shirts, trench coats, ruffled dresses, scarves, and trench coats feature a chain print inspired by Burberry bags. An archival emblem of an equestrian knight that Lee dusted off and turned bright blue inspired the new Shield bag.