For fall 2025, Pierre-Louis Mascia stayed true to his approach to fashion, reinventing his colorful style without straying from following his North Star, he said backstage before his first coed runway show in Milan on Friday.
Category Archives: BREAKING MODE
LOST HIGHWAY FOR LYNCH’S
It was a shock to learn of David Lynch’s death and to realise that there would be no more films from him. A filmmaker who left a profound mark on the history of cinema, from ‘Eraserhead’ to ‘Mulholland Drive’, via ‘Blue Velvet’, ‘Sailor et Lula’ and the world of ‘Twin Peaks’.
Elephant Man, his second feature film in black and white, was David Lynch’s crowning achievement. Fascinated by deformity, the young director brought to life the story of Joseph Merrick, a British man at the end of the 19th century suffering from a deforming disease. The man with the monstrous morphology became a freak show throughout the country.
Last August, after an interview with Sight & Sound magazine in which he revealed that he was suffering from the consequences of years of smoking.
PROENZA SCHOULER EXIT
Proenza Schouler founders Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez, who are stepping down as creative directors of the brand they founded in 2002.
Their exit is effective Jan. 31 They are widely expected to succeed Jonathan Anderson at the creative helm of Spanish luxury house Loewe, owned by LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, clearing the way for Anderson to eventually take up a creative role at Dior, as has been reported.
The Proenza Schouler duo have long been on the radar of top European fashion houses. Valentino Fashion Group took a stake in Proenza Schouler in 2007. Four years later, a group of backers led by John Howard and Andrew Rosen bought most of Valentino’s position.
Then in 2018, Mudrick Capital Management led the designers’ buyback of their company. According to sources, LVMH has held discussions with McCollough and Hernandez over the years about joining one of its marquee fashion houses, which include Dior, Louis Vuitton, Givenchy and Fendi.
EMILIA PEREZ
I am not a film critic, and yet, after last night’s shock, I am going to tell you about Jacques Audiard latest nuggets that will change French cinema and bring it, like the New Wave in its time, into another dimension. The film “Emilia Perez” stands out for the complexity of its plot, centered on the personal transformation of its protagonist. The film explores in depth the journey of “Manitas Del Monte”, a cartel leader who has aspired to become a woman since childhood, and who, with the help of her lawyer Rita, begins a transition to become Emilia.
This transformation is much more than a simple physical change; it represents a quest for identity and redemption. Manitas, played by Karla Sofía Gascón, must navigate the emotional and social challenges of her transition, while facing the consequences of her criminal past.
The film explores themes such as self-acceptance, overcoming prejudice and finding inner peace. But the complexity of the plot also lies in the relationship between Emilia and Rita, played by Zoe Saldana. Their dynamic evolves over the course of the film, from a professional relationship to a deep friendship, marked by understanding and mutual support. This relationship is a central pillar of the story, illustrating how empathy and solidarity can help overcome personal obstacles. The subject it addresses: can we become a better soul by changing sex? Is redemption possible?
DOLCE & GABBANA IN PARIS
Bringing together for the first time the luxury fashion house’s unique creations, ‘From the Heart to the Hand: Dolce&Gabbana’ is an open love letter to Italian culture, the constant source of inspiration for Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana. The exhibition retraces the aesthetic itinerary of their creations, first worn in their hearts, then handcrafted in their workshops.
AWARDS FOR WINTOUR AND LAUREN
Fashion designer Ralph Lauren receives the Presidential Medal of Freedom from U.S. President Joe Biden in the East Room of the White House on January 4, 2025 in Washington, DC. President Biden presents 19 recipients with the nation’s highest civilian honor.
With Anna Wintour, Editor-in-Chief of Vogue, receives the Presidential Medal of Freedom from U.S. President Joe Biden in the East Room of the White House on January 4, 2025 in Washington, DC.
This is the nation’s highest civilian honor, recognizing Lauren’s extraordinary contributions as a visionary fashion designer, pioneering entrepreneur, innovative business leader and dedicated philanthropist. No comment for Wintour who had asked France and Great Britain for an award, it will finally be the United States that will obtain it thanks to her unwavering support for the Biden campaign.
CALENDAR OF MY UNWANTED DESIRES
The men’s and couture calendars published by the Fédération des méandres and the Haute “mouture” de la Mode will be from January 21 to 26, and only 38 shows of the men’s collections in 2025 will be presented, followed by 28 fashion houses from January 27 to 30.
Among the expected highlights of the men’s calendar, we find the arrival of New Yorker Willy Chavarria and the return of Jacquemus back home, who had left Paris since 2001.
MANGO FOUNDER DIES
Isak Andic, non-executive chairman and founder of Mango, died Saturday. The Spanish retailer’s chief executive officer Toni Ruiz confirmed that the cause of death was an accident.
Andic was 71 years old. According to media reports, Andic died falling almost 500 feet in a cave of the Montserrat mountain range near Barcelona, in Catalunya, Spain, during an excursion with his family. We extend our deepest condolences to his family.
FM
TROTTER AND KERING
Kering and Bottega Veneta are delighted to announce the appointment of Louise Trotter as Creative Director.Formerly Creative Director of Carven, she is renowned for her meticulous approach to craftsmanship. She will join Bottega Veneta at the end of January 2025.
Thus, Chanel will be able to give the information that Matthieu Blazy will become the creator of the Coco brand, as announced in our magazines a few weeks ago.
The Sunderland-born designer studied marketing and design at Newcastle Polytechnic. She then moved to the US to work as Vice President of Womenswear Design at Gap in New York. She then became Head of Womenswear at Calvin Klein, before taking on a design role at Tommy Hilfiger. Continue reading
THE NEW FASHION EMPIRE
Sales at Zara’s parent company Inditex are holding steady, albeit slowing from pandemic peaks, with sales up 9% during the holiday season from November 1 to December 9.
That’s still below the 14% sales surge seen at the start of last year’s holiday shopping season, however. The news sent shares down 6.5% in Wednesday trading after the news broke. Zar is taking market share from the LVMH-owned brands.
CHANEL CHINESE STYLE
These Chinoiserie give us a luxury without doubt, and without doubt, there is no mystery, and without mystery, there is no more dream. Here the public, brain in hand, film and look through the prism of their mobile phone, and even the AI will not make this collection a sublime moment.
THE QUEEN OF TAX
T
he Alexander McQueen brand is the subject of a tax probe by Italian authorities, Kering announced on Monday. Kering and the company are confident that their operating mode is correct and are pursuing these discussions constructively, it said.
Italy’s financial police allege that Alexander McQueen failed to declare between 60 million euros and 70 million euros in taxable income between 2016 and 2022, leading Florence prosecutors to open an investigation.
To settle an investigation into Gucci’s tax payments related to its Italy sales between 2011 and 2017, the conglomerate paid the Italian Revenue Agency a total of 1.25 billion euros in 2019. Italian tax authorities claim Kering intentionally avoided Italian taxes by directly operating a Swiss subsidiary named Luxury Goods International to distribute Gucci products in Italy. Continue reading
A NIGHT IN NEW YORK
In 2024, New York City is looking forward to a repeat performance of last year’s holiday season. The city attracted 4.4 million visitors in 2023 who spent over $500 million and created 14,000 jobs.
New York City is back, as said Arnold… Holidays are a time when millions of people come to our shopping districts from around the world and we can’t wait to welcome them. Our local economy benefits from thousands of jobs and businesses. There were 4.4 million people in town on the weekend before Christmas last year.
The most popular retail hubs in Manhattan were Fifth Avenue, Bryant Park, Times Square, and SoHo, as well as downtown Flushing in Queens and MetroTech in Brooklyn.
CHANEL IN THE HOMELAND OF COPYCATS
Although Chanel never visited Hangzhou, the Chinese city dubbed “heaven on earth,” she was fascinated by black lacquer. China tops the list of countries producing counterfeit and pirated goods.
A collection that brings together the intricate skills of more than 100 artisans from the house’s subsidiary subsidiaries, including embroiderers, feather workers, florists, goldsmiths, pleaters, shoemakers, hatters, milliners, glove makers and tanners, was designed by the studio team and depicts the fictional life of a traveler, perhaps modeled on Coco herself, a journey not to Germany, but to China. Continue reading
THE LUCKY BUGGER CLIENTS
The empty house Jacquemus is about to launch its own lottery, to attract customers to its empty store of products worthy of the name. I hope that the National Gaming Authority (ANJ) is aware of this.
A coupon of communication after having opened its first store in London, by offering the British to participate in a traditional French bad tea ceremony thinking that the English know nothing about Tea, and to win a “Bisou Chaine” bag, you know the one made in China and bad quality at 550 euros.
It will be on Instagram, that Jacque mumuse announced the news last Friday. And wants to offer his community to be part of the 200 participants drawn at random to attend and play the Jacquemus Lottery. We can say for next year that he will have had 200 clients.
This pinch butt will be held in Paris “in an iconic place, presented by an icon”, probably a supermarket bimbo. It will be on December 5 at 6 p.m. No more informations.
SUITCASE BUILDING IN BIG APPLE
Luxury brand Louis Vuitton has concealed its New York flagship under renovation under a suitcase-like façade and moved into a temporary shop.
From East 57th Street and 5th Avenue a trunk-inspired facade simultaneously covers a temporary location around the corner, with sculptures developed with OMA partner Shohei Shigematsu . As for the next Vuitton hotel on the Champs Elysées in Paris.
A VETERAN PROCTER IN LVMH
Beware of knockoff, sometimes it can be surprising..Dior Creates New Industrial Department, Taps EssilorLuxottica Veteran as Chief Production Officer. The French luxury house vowed to take a larger proportion of its production in-house following a scandal over subcontractors in Italy.
After being hit by a scandal over its subcontractors in Italy earlier this year, Dior is bolstering its in-house production arm. The French luxury house revealed Wednesday the creation of a new industrial department, tasked with strengthening its overall production capacity over the long term and ensuring the continuity of its knowhow.
“It is more important than ever to sustainably support our various production processes at each stage of manufacturing, respecting the ethical regulations in force, overseeing all the house’s activities, while preserving and promoting Dior’s creativity, craftsmanship and exceptional savoir-faire,” said Delphine Arnault, chairman and chief executive officer of Christian Dior Couture.
A IDOL FOR KORS
Idol previously ran Michael Kors through a major growth spurt as the brand transformed from small designer to a publicly traded force in the accessible luxury handbag market.
Now he’s taking direct control of a business in the midst of a major turnaround, while keeping his day job as chairman and CEO of parent company Capri Holdings, which also owns Versace and Jimmy Choo.
After 16 years as CEO of Michael Kors, Cedric Wilmotte is leaving the company. Philippa Newman will take on the role of chief product officer at Michael Kors following the changeover. As president of accessories and footwear, Newman has been with the brand for 14 years. Continue reading
MADE IN ITALIARABIA
Sindalah Island, Saudi Arabia’s newest ultra-luxury resort, is preparing to welcome its first visitors. Located at the northern tip of the Red Sea, facing the eastern coast of Egypt, Neom is an exclusive resort destination designed by Crown Prince Mohammed bin Salman, the Gulf’s super-democrat.
Italian architect and designer Luca Dini has been chosen to lead the full design, and the island will feature an 86-berth superyacht marina, yacht and golf clubs, a village, three five-star hotels with over 550 ultra-premium rooms, villas and apartments, 38 restaurants, 51 boutiques and much more, with LVMH not to be outdone.
CARTIER IN DOWNTON PARIS
For its 40th anniversary, the Fondation Cartier is pulling out all the stops because in 2025, it will set up shop at Place du Palais-Royal, swapping Boulevard Raspail to better anchor itself in the beating heart of Paris and the ghetto of the Lord of LVMH. Neighbors: the Louvre Museum, the Museum of Decorative Arts, the Comédie-Française, the Bourse de Commerce – Pinault Collection, the Musée de l’Orangerie, the Jeu de Paume, the Opéra Garnier and the Musée d’Orsay, but especially the Samaritaine.
An architectural revolution led by Jean Nouvel, and setting up in such an impressive place, given its location and history, implies inventing something new or art nouveau.
Inside, 6,500 m² of exhibition spaces, 1,200 m² of mobile platforms, verticalities that rise up to 11 meters. A playground that lives up to the ambitions of the Foundation, which is celebrating 40 years.