Category Archives: BREAKING MODE
SKIMS KARDASHIAN
DOLCE & GABBANA
GEORGES CHAKRAS PARIS 2023
BALENCIAGA JEANNE ARCHIVES
It was hard to find virgin girls at the Balenciaga’s show, though the metal Jeanne d’Arc dress at the end of the collection caused quite a stir.
Stunning optical illusion, where jeans, tweed jackets and Haute Couture fur coats were displayed under the reproachful eyes of Peta association fighting against “Furriiiiiire”, says the old Israelite by my side, botoxed like a MG and lifted like a French 75 Cannon.
Celebrities who were packed like sardines into golden chairs like the so smart Cardi B, Yseult and consorts, and a few stroll the catwalk, notably the French actress, Isabelle Huppert, with her big emotional eyes that she can’t close them anymore and who cries profusely for good reasons … And like the Black Eagle that the French singer Barbara wouldn’t deny, wears a dress shining like stars, but not on Hollywood Boulevard walk of fame.
VALENTINO 2024
HUGO MARTIN PARASITE
Studying design, but with optician parents, he was immersed in the world of optics from an early age, and it was only natural that he should become the builder of your eyes. In 2000, he entered an eyewear competition in the Jura region of France with an original idea for glasses with four temples that could only be held together with the help of your temples. He set up his own brand and named it “Parasite”, because like Parasite, his glasses clung to his face and he couldn’t get rid of them.
CHANEL PORT OF SHADOWS
FASHION AND RIOTS
Hedi Slimane, artistic director of Céline, faced with the fear of riots, did not present this Sunday, July 2. As a challenge to the rules of Paris Fashion Week, Jacquemus chose the week between the men’s and haute couture shows to present its collection, on June 26, off-calendar, in the very extravagant setting of the Château de Versailles basin created by Lenôtre.
Thirteen years later, the “customary” of this calendar, which Jacques Mouclier and Pierre Berger had organized for the profession, and not Didier Grumler, as some Irish and other journalists say… recomposing history in low-brow books for the fashion Net-Woke.
PACO THE FOURTH OF JULY
With its fashion and fragrance businesses synced up, Paco Rabanne is ready for its close-up and global expansion. The Mariano Puig PlanasPuig-owned fashion and fragrance house is launching makeup, kicking off a D2C intensification with a flagship store in New York City and gradually bringing its new visual identity to several product lines and retail spaces.
This is crystallized in the brand’s new logo, with typeface inspired by the brand’s 1968 hit perfume Calandre. Dossena’s contribution has bolstered Rabanne’s fashion credibility, reworked and clarified the brand’s key aesthetic codes, and recently made significant inroads with celebrities by adding eveningwear.
Beyoncé, for instance, wore a gleaming, waist-cinching Rabanne gown created from round, mirror-effect plates when she appeared at the Stade de France last month. Continue reading
JACQUEMUS LES FOURBERIES D’ESCARPIN
These are the aristocratic women of our time, the Marie-Trottinettes of Versailles, who come to contemplate the couturier of couturiers, the man who can neither sew nor draw, and who is imbued with the noble desire to instruct us.
On Monday, guests at the Jacquemus fashion show at the Château de Versailles shielded themselves from the sun with ivory-colored parasols. The 75 boats lined up along the red runway that skirted one bank were accompanied by baroque music.
The goal of this ambitious fashion show was to position the Jacquemus brand in a more important league, as well as to aim for sales of 500 million euros by 2025. But that’s not going to happen with the dresses presented.
As a nod to Marie-Antoinette and Versailles’ court fashion, the collection is remembered for its frothy skirts and ugliest pantyhose. We’ve certainly not read the same history books.
VAN NOTEN BY COLOR
Van Noten’s absence of prints robbed the show of its usual visual strength, but it did highlight two things: his distinctive tailoring and his mastery of color. Van Noten favored fluid, lightweight and sometimes gossamer fabrics, putting his strong-shouldered jackets in shirt-quality fabrics that could be tucked into high-waisted pants. Continue reading
NIGO TAKADA
Finally, Nigo chose a symbolic bridge for his track: the Passerelle Debilly, first known as the “Passerelle de l’Exposition Militaire”, then as the “Passerelle Magdebourg” and the “Passerelle Billy”, named after Jean-Louis Debilly, a general in the First Empire, and soon to be known as the Passerelle Pharrell. One of the bridges over the Seine linking the Palais de Tokyo to the Eiffel Tower. What if Kenzo wasn’t Pharrell Williams? He’s a fixture on every LVMH catwalk. Perhaps a Japanese fashion brand Kenzo Takada “A bridge between Afro and French cultures?
THE FUTUR OF LANVIN FUTURE
Lanvin’s next collection will feature rapper Future. After shocking the fashion world last April by announcing the departure of Bruno Sialelli, Lanvin is about to enter a new era: the French fashion house is launching a new entity called “Lanvin Lab” in addition to its collections for men and women, which will continue to be presented at Paris Fashion Week.
International talents are invited to collaborate on projects. We now know who the first guest will be: the American rapper Future, who has already appeared in Hugo Boss advertising campaigns and on the front row of runway shows.
The fashion house explains its decision by its desire to celebrate “an innovative, individualistic vision that bridges music and fashion”. The collection is also a fitting tribute to its designer, Jeanne Lanvin, whose daughter, Marguerite, was an accomplished musician.
Following in the footsteps of Pharrell Williams, another multi-disciplinary artist originally from the music scene, who this week presented his first collection for Louis Vuitton, Future and Lanvin are expected to present their first collaborative drop in the coming months, comprised of clothing and accessories for women and men.
CITIZEN KANE FALL
Christopher Kane Shutters Namesake Company. One of London’s most renowned and talented designers is closing his label, and hoisting a For Sale sign. The company said the board of Christopher Kane Ltd. has recently resolved to file a notice of intention to appoint FTS Recovery as administrators to wind down operations. Continue reading
WILLIAMS OH MY GOD SPELLS
On Tuesday, the magic hour served as a vuitton plastic canvas for a fashion show spectacular just by its location on the Seine. Omar Sy, Timbaland, J Balvin, Anitta, Jared Leto, Kim Kardashian, and Lenny Kravitz were among the celebrities in attendance, justifying the media hype surrounding the season’s most anticipated fashion show. Continue reading
TWO BLACK KNIGHTS AT CHEVAL BLANC’S
JAQUEMUS LIKE PUTIN IN VERSAILLES
Jacquemus, the French brand known for its cinematic runway shows in spectacular locations such as a lavender field and a salt mine, will visit the Château de Versailles for its next fashion show on June 26, as part of a brand elevation strategy that includes plans for an international retail rollout.
Designer Simon Porte Jacquemus, known for his Mediterranean aesthetic and deft use of social media, follows in the footsteps of major brands such as NafNAF and Zara. What could be better than a king’s castle for the king of tartuffery?
To be able to do a fashion show at Versailles has always been a childhood dream,” declared the couturier, who can neither draw nor sew a dress.
But Jacquemus CEO Bastien “Dag-Usant” has his work cut out for him! The initiative is part of a long-term strategy to elevate the brand somewhere.
Chiquito handbags, the brand’s best-sellers, start at 490 euros, the company’s cash cow. At 5.2 cm long and 8.7 cm high (with handle), it can only hold the letter “J” in the Jacquemus logo. It’s worn hanging from a ridiculous finger.
FASHION THE PRICE WE PAY
According to three people with direct knowledge of the matter, EU antitrust regulators are investigating how Kering’s (PRTP.PA) Gucci and other fashion firms set prices of handbags and leather goods for distributors.
Reuters reported previously that the European Union raided Gucci’s Milan site, which makes such products, at dawn in response to a Reuters report. Kering confirmed at the time that Gucci had cooperated with EU regulators.
An EU competition watchdog is investigating whether the companies are imposing consumer prices on multi-brand retailers selling their products and threatening not to sell to them if they don’t.
EU antitrust laws prohibit such practices, and breaches can result in fines of up to 10% of a company’s global revenue.
RADIANCE IS A SERIOUS MATTER
When Jean-Christophe Babin, CEO of Bulgari, unveiled the new Bulgari Hotel on Thursday, he expressed his enthusiasm for the world’s 9th luxury hotel BULGARI, which has special significance because of its location in Rome, where Bulgari is based, marking as well as its historical significance.
With six floors and over 151,000 square feet of space, plus an additional terrace offering breathtaking views of Rome from the Vatican to the Villa Medici, there was no shortage of superlatives. The Pope himself is said to have blessed the luxury lord’s new flagship from his bed.