NEW FASHION MARC

The intimate runway show for Marc Jacobs’ spring 2023 collection took place Thursday night at the Park Avenue Armory, with a sense of excitement and nostalgia. Intimate for who, the journalists or the future customers?

In every detail, Jacobs is a master showman. The venue set up consisted of a single row of chairs for the audience, with a strobe light defining the runway of the darkened room so you couldn’t see anything at all; a pink-haired Jennifer Koh played a violin solo from Philip Glass’ “Einstein on the Beach: Knee Play 2,” and a cast of unisex/fluid models wearing his latest creations.

He also quoted Dame Vivienne Westwood, who said, “Fashion changes lives, and I think it’s a lovely and generous thing to do for each other” in the collection.
With cargo and patchwork pocket skirts and flipped jackets, the collection began with dazzled and reworked denim and utility numbers.

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ROLLAND THE GOLD RUSH

The nominations for the 2023 Oscars were announced yesterday, and the red carpet outfit predictions followed soon after. Consider turning heads in Stephane Rolland’s phenomenal gold gown that debuted on the haute couture runway yesterday in Paris.

The latter looked like frozen liquid gold midway through the show, spilling over the model’s shoulders and creating a glittering blistered lamé tent to protect her from the public. On her face and part of her torso was a tear-shaped cup, reminding everyone that she was both ethereal and earthy. She wore gold bracelets around her arms, like threads. As if she were a living sculpture, she was the manifestation of a god.

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A YOUNG MAN WITH A LOW POTENTIAL

Charles de Vilmorin will preside the 38th Hyères Festival, a young man that the French fashion industry is trying to make us swallow whole!

The Hyères editon 2023 is placed under the sign of the nonentity. This year’s competition for young creation has chosen to entrust the presidency of its various juries to three young names in fashion and photography ; for the fashion category, Charles de Vilmorin.

In Paris, it was announced on Wednesday evening, January 25th, at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs. On this occasion, Jean-Pierre Blanc, the founder and general manager of the event, officially launched the 38th edition of the International Fashion and Photography Festival of Hyères, which will take place from October 12 to 15. He also announced the selected finalists and the jury members.

In addition to celebrating the centenary of the Villa Noailles, which hosts the event, a miracle is explained by the presence of most of the fashion actors who are opening their houses around St. Tropez for the summer.

Charles de Vilmorin, 26, has achieved a meteoric rise over the past three years and is probably the youngest designer to have been named to the famous competition’s fashion jury.

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VUITTON CHICAGO FIRE

Somebody pinch Colm Dillane. Just 18 months after winning the runner-up award at the LVMH Prize for Young Designers, the Brooklyn, New York-based designer was at Paris Fashion Week to present the collection he codesigned for Louis Vuitton, the world’s biggest luxury brand.

Dillane, the founder and creative director of the KidSuper label, came to the table with a 500-page book of ideas, but Vuitton’s in-house team had already designed a large portion of the collection, which revolved loosely around the theme made in Chicago.

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FENDI MADE IN LUXURY

In a mesmerizing display, it was difficult to take one’s eye off the stunning show. Hand-painted, antique-finish leather coats, shearling jackets, and hand-woven cashmere totes stuffed with cashmere blankets, along with crocodile boots with Cuban heels.If your budget is less than five figures, you’re out of luck. Continue reading

TATJANA PATITZ

It would be necessary to speak in the language of Victor Hugo or Cornelius to describe the beauty.

In memory to TATJANA PATITZ (25 March 1966, Hamburg – January 2023), the German top model who achieved international prominence in the 1980s and 1990s representing fashion designers on runways and in magazines such as ‘Elle’, ‘Harper’s Bazaar’, and ‘Vogue’. Patitz was one of the big five supermodels who appeared in the 1990 music video “Freedom! ’90” by George Michael, and is associated with the editorial, advertising, and fine-art works of photographers Herb Ritts and Peter Lindbergh.

In the book ‘Models of Influence: 50 Women Who Reset The Course of Fashion’, author Nigel Barker reviewed Patitz’s career during the height of the supermodel era in the 1980s and 1990s, writing that she possessed an exoticism and broad emotional range that set her apart from her peers. Continue reading

THE RED AND THE BLACK

For those in the market for decidedly evening styles, the couturier delivered glamorous but believable fare, lining up draped goddess gowns, monochromatic sheath dresses, sequined suiting in changeant tones of aqua and purple. There was even another hoodie, this time dressed in silver and gold sequins.

L’ACOSTE GLOBE-TROTTER

After four years as Lacoste’s creative director, Louis Trotter is stepping down. In addition to directing the fashion show and general collections, Trotter contributed to the company’s shift toward women’s wear, lauding her “real consistency” in creating the company’s overall line.

She had joined the company in 2018, showing her first collection in February 2019 during Paris Fashion Week. Thierry Guibert praised Trotter’s creativity and commitment, as well as her contribution to Lacoste’s legacy.

Lacoste’s executive had noted Trotter’s contribution to the brand’s enduring sports casual identity during the opening of its Champs-Elysées flagship. An intimate presentation in Paris showcased her latest designs. In spring 2023, they will be available for purchase.

Lacoste is rethinking its creative approach, stating that it will take the form of “a collaborative studio model focused on a collective vision.” The brand will also be celebrating its 90th anniversary in 2023.

FURS FOR BIMBOS IT IS OVER

Days before the end of 2022, a pop-up store displayed sable, chinchilla, mink, fox and other furs for 75 percent off.

Furs last retail outlet in California was the high-end Beverly Center, a large shopping complex adjacent to Beverly Hills. The shopping center was trying to sell as much merchandise as possible before the California Legislature passed a statewide fur ban on Jan.

Bimbos have been buying our furs here for years at 25 degrees, and this has killed our business. Fur opponents have spent years slowly whittling away at California’s fur business, and they win.

COMPLETELY TIK LOCK

Blackpink’s Rosé the pop star, who has been an official ambassador for Tiffany since April 2021, will appear in images featuring new Lock designs as the collection begins an expansion beyond bracelets and into earrings, rings and necklaces.

It is understood that Blackpink’s contract with its record label YG is set to end in mid-2023 and it’s unclear if the group will sign an extension and if Tiffany’s contract with Rosé is contingent on her status with YG.

The record group’s relationship with Tiffany holding company LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton is a lucrative one beyond Rosé’s contract with Tiffany, fellow group member Lisa has contracts with Celine and Bulgari and Jisoo is in contract with Christian Dior.

Rosé’s Lock; campaign is representative of Tiffany’s investment in what it sees as a new marquee product line.The new designs are expected in stores this month with prices ranging from $4,800 to $20,000.

CHAMPAGNE FOR CHRISTMAS

Artémis Domaines, the wine company of billionaire François Pinault, has acquired the champagne house Jacquesson, it announced Tuesday in a statement. The billionaire’s company, which already owns Château Latour wine and Henriot champagne among others, becomes “the sole shareholder” of the Jacquesson house, in which it had been a minority shareholder since February 2022, the statement said.

Jacquesson, founded in Dizy, Champagne, was previously owned by the Chiquet family, which acquired it in 1974. The estate covers 40 hectares and produces 300,000 bottles per year. Jean Garandeau, general manager of the Jacquesson house since September 2022, retains his steering. Jean-Hervé Chiquet, the former owner, will continue to sit on the board of directors of the house.

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FASHION IN PARIS AND NETFLIX

According to the provisional calendar released Friday by the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode, all 81 events at Paris Men’s Week in Fall 2023 will be physical. Between Jan. 17 and Jan. 22, 48 shows and 33 presentations will unveil the men’s wear collections.

Saint Laurent will return to Paris on January 17 with its men’s collection show at 9 p.m. Anthony Vaccarello has shown his menswear designs in Marrakech, Jersey City, New Jersey, Venice, Italy, and Malibu.

It had been more than a year since Maison Margiela has shown a men’s collection, the first and only Artisanal collection to date by John Galliano. Its show will take place on Jan. 22 at 8 p.m.

The fashion week cornerstones are settling back into familiar positions with Rick Owens and Louis Vuitton on Jan 19 at 12:30 p.m. and 2:30 p.m., Dior Homme the next day at 2:30 p.m., and Hermès on Saturday at 3 p.m.

Emily Bode will join Emily in Paris in January. The six-year-old brand announced on Wednesday that it would return to the official Paris menswear calendar this season with a show scheduled for 6:30 p.m. on Jan. 21. Normal for the new president confusing couture and Netflix series, he thinks that the creator of the dumbest series in the world deserves an advertisement to change the image of France by stupid French fashion people. I am willing to bet that there will be Nodelato shoes in the serie. Continue reading

CHRISTENSEN IS SO SLOW

Tuesday night, Helena Christensen joined Dodiee founder Elisa Dahan at the label’s pop-up store in New York’s SoHo for a low-key cocktail party, not secret.

Christensen said she loves Dodiee because it enhances women’s curves. Choosing a body-hugging black knit dress with an open back for the cocktail party was not without irony.

The fact that I ended up wearing something black is funny. I am a very colorful person.

I usually never wear black. People are surprised when I do. Lavender is my favorite color. Hot pink? Yes! Also, the neon lime green is a very bold color to use in a collection and using it in curvaceous designs is a very bold, cool way to show off a woman’s body,” she said of the Dodiee line. Like what, you can be, and go to a party in Soho and not have anything to say! That’s The Way It Is…

JACQUEMUS DISCOVERS RAPHIA

This is my last show,” Simon Porte Jacquemus announced solemnly but unfortunately it was a joke. Raphia (raphias, a word of Malagasy origin attested in 1652) is a genus of palm trees of the Arecaceae family that can be found in swampy environments and along rivers. This may be a confusion between Malagasy, and malvoisies.

Monocarpic plant or hapaxanthe (the stem dies after the fruiting like the nun’s broom, but the roots remain alive, emitting new shoots), perfect plant for fashion but already used by Franck Sorbier a long time ago, so nothing new under the sun.

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GUCCI RENAME SEASONS

On Tuesday, Gucci announced its cruise 2024 show will take place in South Korea on May 15, kicking off Milan’s fashion week in January. Until a new creative organization is revealed after the departure of Alessandro Michele last month, Gucci’s design office will continue to steer the house forward.

It marks Gucci’s 25th anniversary in South Korea since its first flagship opened in Seoul in 1998. A 1395 Seoul landmark, also known as The Palace Greatly Blessed by Heaven and built during the Joseon dynasty, was the setting for Gucci’s Cosmogonie show, a repeat performance of its collection unveiled in Apulia last May.

On Nov. 1, Gucci CEO Marco Bizzarri and Choi Eung-Cheon, South Korea’s head of cultural heritage, signed an agreement to preserve the palace. Continue reading

DEATH AFTER THE NILE

Fashion journalist for fifty years, half of which she spent at the French Figaro since 1979. She was the first to have interviewed Yves Saint-Laurent, Normal when you are the only fashion journalist in Paris, and the first was Pierre Berger.

She had lunch at Maxim’s and at the Elysée Palace with the Queen of England, met Luciano Pavarotti, dared to ask Karl Lagerfeld for an account, stayed in Miami with Gianni Versace, discovered the secret Tangier of Jean-Louis Scherrer, and and its tax audi.

Her life merges with the great moments of a half-century of fashion, parties, launches, crossed by leading personalities that she had the privilege to approach and tell.

Viperous articles fiellently distilled on Fashion show of the small and without rank to praise the brand that made her gifts. Lost Illusions of Honorés de Balzac has it all alone. She said of Jacques Mouclier to please Pierre Berger, that he was an civik servant of the crystal.

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A NECROPLOLIS FOR DIOR

At the Grand Egyptian Museum near Cairo, Dior held a preview event for its pre-fall menswear show, set to take place before the pyramids of Giza.

An imposing statue of Ramesses II dominates the entrance hall of the imposing building in which Dior Tears, a capsule collection designed by Denim Tears creative director Tremaine Emory, was presented on Friday night. Continue reading