HERMÈS IN THE CHINESE TRAP

The French luxury firm posted revenues of 2.37 billion euros in the three months to Sept. 30, up 40.3 percent at constant exchange rates compared with 2019, considered a more reliable benchmark due to the disruption caused by the coronavirus pandemic last year, This represented an increase of 31.2 percent versus 2020.

But operating profit margin should be much lower than the 40.7 percent recorded in the first six months of the year, due to foreign exchange headwinds, higher employee costs and a lower contribution from leather goods.

The key leather goods and saddlery division saw organic sales rise 22.2 percent during the period, driven by sustained demand and significant deliveries during the quarter. Hermès opened a new leather goods workshop near Bordeaux in September, and several other production sites are in the works.

In the last month alone, it has reopened its store at the Istinye Park mall in Istanbul, and unveiled new boutiques at the Aventura Mall in Florida and in Shenzhen, China. In the long term, will Hermès Continue reading

J. AKEROYD NAME CEO OF BURBERRY

Versace chief executive officer Jonathan Akeroyd is returning home to the U.K., taking the top job at Burberry, the British company said Wednesday.

Akeroyd, 54, will succeed Marco Gobbetti, who was named CEO of Salvatore Ferragamo earlier this year. He will join Burberry on April 1.

Gerry Murphy, chairman of Burberry, described Akeroyd as ;an experienced leader with a strong track record in building global luxury fashion brands, and driving profitable growth. He shares our values and our ambition to build on Burberry’s unique British creative heritage and his deep luxury and fashion industry expertise will be key to advancing the next phase of Burberry’s evolution.”

Akeroyd served as CEO of Alexander McQueen from 2004 to 2016, and before that, he held a number of senior fashion roles at Harrods. Continue reading

ILONA OREL JEWELLERY

Like the sand of the azure deserts, like the long fluctuations of the swell of the seas, she grows with indifference, and her shining eyes are made of delicately chosen minerals. In this brilliant and symbolic nature where the angel mingles with the ancient sphinx, where all is only gold, steel, light and diamonds, shine forever for women to sublimate them.

Earth or Luna, a star whose Indo-European root means “to be luminous or illuminated”, it is also called the luminous one to designate both the star and the divinity. The earth turns to remind us of the meaning of life, here is the charm and beauty, like a kind of flower for the skin, which dances under an eye of diamonds so that the light carries a smile.

To offer a jewel to whoever wants love, is to drink the one or the other, depending on who you are, who is dying of the thirst to love. From the top of her heels, here is the feminine exterior, and I have never seen anything more grand and majestic than ILONA’s creations. Continue reading

LANVIN THE CHINESE SYNDROME

Fosun Fashion Group has a new name, Lanvin Group, and new investors who bring the valuation of the Chinese fashion conglomerate to more than $1 billion.

Armed with more capital and industry expertise, the Shanghai-based firm plans to push further into Asia and the U.S., and continue building its portfolio of premium and luxury brands.

Joann Cheng, chair of Lanvin Group, said Its latest funding round raised about $150 million and brought on board two strategic investors Japan’s Itochu Corp, and Chinese high-end footwear maker Stella International as well as private equity firm Xizhi Capital, but Fosun International Ltd remains stay the majority stakeholder. Continue reading

ST LAURENT IS BLACK

Saint Laurent is finally back and black on the official Paris Fashion Week schedule. Anthony Vaccarello’s narrow, elongated silhouettes for spring as emphatic as the Iron Lady, models filing in precise rows around a wall of scaffolding that blinked with lights and ultimately erupted with falling water. Continue reading

VUITTON PARIS 2022

To close the Paris fashion shows, Vuitton decorated the Louvre’s Passage Richelieu with a sea of vintage chandeliers and told a story few have ever heard. The passage was used by Louis Vuitton himself to “reach the apartments of Empress Eugenie”  the wife of Napoleon III  “for whom he was the trunk maker.” Thanks to Nicolas for this kind invitation.

BALENCIAGA MARGE AND WINTOUR

The Balenciaga show was riotously fun, blurring the lines between fashion and entertainment; thawing the icy, impassive image of the Balenciaga brand, and further solidifying Demna Gvasalia’s position as one of the industry’s most original and unpredictable thinkers.

The “Théâtre du Châtelet” had all the trappings of awards season in Hollywood: howling photographers, efficient handlers, and a steady stream of attention-seeking guests. All of this was broadcast inside the venue on a giant screen as if it were Césars, the night of the Césars, a kind of French Oscar, usually at the Chatelet theater . Continue reading

DGENA THE STREET WAVE

You can find everything at the Samaritaine! Including young talented designers who parade from the first to the last floor, under the applause of the public. Fashion comes down to the street with men and women of the street (non-professional models)! This sacrosanct Fashion Week, this cenacle asleep and protected by some to remain in dark rooms hyperprotected for VIPs where everything sells so quickly that nothing is sold in the stores because they are empty of creation and meaning. Dgena, yesterday afternoon, brought fashion to the street, in Les Halles, the epicenter of youth, under “La Canopée” that young people want to protect at all costs and on the square of the last jewel of the Lord of Arnault, the young designer presented the last 20 models from Upcycling.

The originality of this one: all the pieces created are from overcycling, more commonly called “Upcycling” (end of rolls, fabric scraps, building tarpaulins, clothes found in resourceries, including clothes from individuals) and made in the luxury standards of Haute Couture. With this collection, Dgena shows that it is possible to make Luxury with existing clothes and materials, donated or from the recovery . Continue reading

DIOR 2022

For the first major show of Paris Fashion Week after the covid, the Dior women’s wear designer transformed a tent in the Tuileries gardens into a ‘60s-era nightclub, with a multilevel circular stage where a live band played Italian disco music, and models stood until it was their turn to walk.

Continue reading

GIORGIO ARMANI SPRING 2022

After 20 years, the show is back to his original theater at 11 Via Borgonuovo, an underground space at his storied headquarter where he showed his collections every season until he opened the new Tadao Ando-designed theater across town in 2001. Continue reading

FRENCH FEDERATION CHANGE

The French Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode has published the final version of the official schedulen finally, with a number of changes as usual. The return of Saint Laurent, the first big house to step away from preset schedules to set its own pace for collections during the pandemic, who says goodbye to the Venice views and desert vistas to return with an 8 p.m. show on Sept. 28  at the new museum of the businessman Pinault.

It joins returnees Balenciaga, Loewe, Maison Margiela and Valentino among the big names that have decided to return their collections to Paris this season. Couturier Alexandre Vauthier has moved the reveal of his latest ready-to-wear offering to a bright and early 9 a.m. on Oct. 2. Continue reading

IN FRONT OF PARIS MILAN FASHION WEEK

In the past few seasons and despite the pandemic Milan Fashion Week has quietly but increasingly become a launchpad for several emerging names, under the lead of the Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana, which has spearheaded a series of initiatives to enhance its mentoring role.

As much as the direct-to-consumer business model is mining the appeal, especially business-wise, of international fashion shows, there is still a slew of young designers who are sticking to the format in hopes that showcasing their collections within the frame of established fashion weeks can boost their appeal and global resonance.

Once deemed as dormant or at least less exciting than Paris, especially during the men’s season, the showcase has been able to attract new names, not only supporting Italian creatives but also drawing designers from all continents. Continue reading

VUITTON 200 YEARS AGO

Two hundred years after his birth, the Vuitton company is marking the milestone in ways its founder never could have imagined, including a video game with embedded NFTs, a documentary on Apple TV, window installations, artworks, and social media activations galore.

Media is evolving so quickly that every time there’s a new way of communicating, you have to tell your story all over again, said Michael Burke, chairman and chief executive officer of Vuitton. Generations are now defined by technology, not by age.

Vuitton Louis setting off from the tiny town of Anchay in eastern France at age 13. And yet the life story of Vuitton, who eventually reached Paris and apprenticed at renowned trunk maker and packer Romain Maréchal, contains many universal business truths, including the necessity of taking risks, of staying close to the customer, and of passing the baton to the next generation at the right time. Continue reading

WELCOME TO THE BUBBLE OF…

Consumers still appear willing to spend lavishly on luxury clothes and accessories, even as markets reopen and other activities like restaurants and travel compete for their discretionary dollars.

The world’s biggest luxury group, which owns 75 brands ranging from Dom Pérignon Champagne to Bulgari jewelry, said its fashion and leather goods, or FLG, division was once again the star performer in the second quarter, FLG activities posted sales of 7.13 billion euros in the three months to June 30, up 40 percent on an organic basis versus the same quarter in 2019, reflecting the resilience of star brands Louis Vuitton and Dior. Continue reading

KRIS WU INFLUENCESEX

Several brands, including Louis Vuitton, Bulgari and Porsche, have cut ties with top Chinese Canadian singer-actor Kris Wu as controversial claims surrounding his personal life emerged on Chinese social media over the weekend. A young woman who said she’d dated the pop star accused him of targeting young and sometimes underage females for sex. Continue reading

VALENTINO 2022

Fashion is not art,” believes Valentino’s creative director Pierpaolo Piccioli. “Fashion always has a practical scope while art is an end in itself.” Ateliers couture collection shown in Venice on Thursday, as 22 out of the 82 designs on the runway.

Andrea Respino inspired a stunning intarsia coat almost trompe l’oeil, said Piccioli made of 150 different swatches of fabrics, from satin to taffeta, laminated and sequined. One could catch glimpses of the painting on the front of the garment, while the back was conceived with the help of Respino, responding with his own creativity to the design.

Another standout was a long, glittering sequined slipdress worn under a floor-length, taffeta bouillonné cape with a pattern reminiscent of poetic images of the moon reflected on a lake by Chinese art curator and photographer Rui Wu.

Fashion and art are creative practices that respond to different purposes one linked to the body and movement, the other completely free from constraints of sorts which nevertheless find a conjunction in the atelier: the place of making, of thinking with the hands, of translating a desire, an idea, a sensation into a tangible object. Continue reading

FRANCK SORBIER 2022

The title sounds like a philosophical fable, a dreamlike tale, a belief shared by believers from all walks of life. But he speaks, above all, despite his backward references, of an increasingly hot topicality on the subject of wealth and poverty.

Some time ago, the magazine « L’Histoire » had the headline « The Rich and the Poor, 1000 years of inequality ». Far from me the idea of any morality or a trial of intent. I must admit that I had a lot of trouble choosing the direction of this collection. To be honest, I didn’t want to choose and each character finally found its place.` The Servant, the Ferryman and the Relic.

The Servant embodies a girl of the woods, glades and ponds. A peasant woman who evolves in a bucolic universe which translates my desire for stripping back.

Jean-Jacques Rousseau, who has never left my thoughts, is once again present in Ermenonville, not far from Chaalis. He will live there for the last ten years of his life. Here, he is at the heart of his deep convictions, those related to nature. Continue reading