Category Archives: BREAKING MODE

A CASTLE FOR CHANEL

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The French fashion house plans to unveil its annual Métiers d’Art collection on Dec. 1 at the Château de Chenonceau, one of the jewels of the Loire valley. The current château was built in 1514–1522 on the foundations of an old mill and was later extended to span the river. The bridge over the river was built (1556-1559) to designs by the French Renaissance architect Philibert de l’Orme, and the gallery on the bridge, built from 1570–1576 to designs by Jean Bullant.

Traditionally a traveling show that has alighted in destinations including Shanghai, Rome, Edinburgh, Salzburg and Dallas, the Métiers d’Art show was held in Paris last December in the wake of the death of Chanel’s longtime creative director Karl Lagerfeld earlier in the year.

Chanel is expected to be one of the first major brands to return to the catwalk this fall, with its show at the Grand Palais on Oct. 6 scheduled to be one of the highlights of Paris Fashion Week, which should also see brands including Dior, Louis Vuitton and Hermès welcome guests in a socially distanced manner. Continue reading →

VIRTUAL FRAGRANCE FOUNDATION AWARDS

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Despite double-digit sales declines in the category over the course of 2020, the fragrance industry had a bright spot Thursday afternoon, thanks to the 2020 Fragrance Foundation Awards webinar, which revealed winners in 25 categories.

Here, see the winners for all categories of the 2020 Fragrance Foundation awards.

Fragrance of the Year, Women’s Luxury: YSL Libre Eau de Parfum, L’Oréal, IFF, Anne Flipo, Carlos Benaïm.

Fragrance of the Year, Women’s Prestige: Lancôme Idôle, L’Oréal, Givaudan, Adriana Medina, Shyamala Maisondieu, Nadege Le Garlantezec.

Fragrance of the Year, Men’s Luxury: Dior Sauvage Parfum, LVMH, Parfums Christian Dior, François Démachy.

Fragrance of the Year, Men’s Prestige: John Varvatos JV x NJ Silver Edition, Revlon, Symrise, Carlos Viñals, Nathalie Benareau. Continue reading →

KARL AND KIM FOR FENDI

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The K.K touch, Jones is to show his first collection for Fendi in February 2021, the Italian brand said in a brief press release.

“Kim Jones is a great talent and since joining, he has continuously proven his ability to adapt to the codes and heritage of the LVMH houses while revisiting them with great modernity and audacity; said Bernard Arnault, chairman and chief executive officer at LVMH. At Fendi, I am convinced that his vision and passion will highly contribute to the success of the women’s collections.”

Serge Brunschwig, chairman and ceo of Fendi added: “Kim is one of the most talented and relevant designers of today. With Silvia Venturini Fendi, who has virtuously carried on Fendi and Karl Lagerfeld legacy, Kim will bring his contemporary one of a kind point of view into the world of Fendi.”

It is understood Jones has harbored ambitions to design women’s wear for some time, and held discussions with Versace in Milan in recent years. He is the latest acclaimed men’s wear specialist to broaden his fashion universe to women’s wear, following on the heels of Hedi Slimane. Continue reading →

FROM COCA-COLA TO FRAGRANCE

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A whopper or not ?There’s a new executive structure at Sephora, with Martin Brok joining the world’s largest prestige beauty retailer as president and chief executive officer, reporting to Chris de Lapuente, who previously led the chain for 10 years.

Brok, who most recently was Starbucks Inc.’s president of Europe, Middle East and Africa, will start at LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton-owned Sephora on Sept. 14.

Arnault said Brok would be charged with creating the next breakthrough chapter at Sephora,” highlighting his "extensive international leadership experience in multiple fast-paced and client-oriented businesses at a crucial moment of change for global retailing.”

In a letter addressed to Sephora’s more than 35,000 employees, de Lapuente said the executive shake-up would fire up our innovation and accelerate our quest to be the world’s most loved beauty community. Continue reading →

LANVIN NEWS FROM THE EDGE

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Lanvin has tapped Arnaud Bazin as its new deputy general manager. The fashion house confirmed his arrival and said Bazin would work with Grace Zhao, its new deputy general manager for the Asia-Pacific businesses. “Together, Mr. Bazin and Ms. Zhao will oversee the overall strategy for the brand and its implementation globally,” .The lord of luxury dispatches his men everywhere in fashion and luxury groups.

Bazin was most recently senior vice president of collection merchandising at Versace, and has been in that role, a new one, a little over a year. Zhao joined Lanvin last November from Dolce & Gabbana, where she was senior vice president, Asia-Pacific.

“I am very glad that Arnaud has joined us and we will continue to drive the development of the company as a team,” said Joann Cheng, chairman of Lanvin.“We have seen significant growth in Asia-Pacific since Grace joined and we believe it is the second engine for us to display the growth trajectory globally,” she added. Continue reading →

PARIS FASHION WARMED UP

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Paris Fashion Week will go ahead this fall with 88 brands on the official calendar, although it is not yet known how many of them will be holding physical shows and presentations.

Among the major brands revealed to be missing from the schedule this season are Celine, Alexander McQueen, Comme des Garçons and Off-White. As reported, Saint Laurent and Valentino are also skipping the Paris season.

The list of absentees also includes Sacai, Lacoste, Lemaire, Junya Watanabe, Noir Kei Ninomiya, Rochas, Atlein, Guy Laroche and Kwaidan Editions. Rochas has been without a designer since last December after parting ways with Alessandro Dell’Acqua, and Lemaire showed its coed collection during the men’s week in July.

The spring 2021 collections for Comme des Garçons, Junya Watanabe and Noir Kei Ninomiya will be unveiled during mini shows or presentations in Tokyo between Oct. 19 and 23 as part of Comme des Garçons’ seasonal showroom there. And Franck Sorbier for a physical Show in Paris Downtown. Continue reading →

MEN MORE CASUAL OR NOT ?

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Now, as businesses across Europe and the U.S. begin to reopen, the question is raging as to whether those men going back to their offices are prepared to return to their dress wardrobe and ditch the casual look. Meanwhile, the fall collections shown nine months ago seemingly ancient history are just hitting stores.

The world has changed a lot since we saw the fall 2020 men’s wear collections in January. We’ve seen a seismic shift in the landscape due to the COVID-19 pandemic and quarantines that have shifted the fashion focus to things more comfortable and relaxed.

“We’ve seen classic pieces like the cardigan sweater in all of its iterations take on new importance as a comfortable, versatile jacket option that gives polish to a more casual look

No one could have predicted we were about to embark on a global crisis in January, when much of the fall collections were focused on tailoring and the new suit for the everyday working man. We’re seeing men are excited about updating their wardrobes for fall but leaning into pieces focused on quality, design and function. Continue reading →

CARDI B LIKE BELFEGORE

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Cardi B as Belfegor comes to haunt the Louvre. Beyoncé and Jay-Z took over the Louvre in Paris for the shoot of their “Apes–t” video in 2018. Cardi B is taking it to the next level with the unveiling on Tuesday of a giant billboard on the side of the museum featuring her debut in a Balenciaga advertising campaig, the quatari from brittany don’t know how to recognize vulgarity

The “WAP” singer, sporting a sleek black bob, is shown reclining on fake grass surrounded by bright yellow kids’ toys, wearing a slinky, black evening gown with an asymmetric cleavage cut low over one breast. Among the objects scattered on the ground is a pristine white version of Balenciaga’s new Neo Classic handbag, the slogan could be, throw your bag Piggy in the midle of the Louvre.

The image is part of the Kering-owned label’s (For the Owl Kering) winter campaign, which it said was self-styled and self-produced during lockdown by its network of friends, which also include American artist Eliza Douglas, a regular on the Balenciaga runway. Continue reading →

TEN UNKNOWN LABEL IN PARIS

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Ten labels have been added to the upcoming Paris fashion week, the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode said Monday, listing them as Ami, Cecilie Bahnsen, Enfants Riches Deprimés, Ester Manas, Gabriela Hearst, Mossi, Situationist, S.R Studio LA.CA, Vejas and Wales Bonner. Ten unknown labels in Paris Fashion week, and that nobody knows who has chosen them.

The spring-summer 2021 collections are expected to be a mix of digital and physical shows in Paris from Sept. 28 to Oct. 6, in conformance with requirements from local health authorities. Ami has said it plans to stage a physical show in the French capital, but outdoors.

French officials recently tightened measures to slow the spread of the coronavirus as people return from summer vacation and head back to work and school, requiring the public to wear masks in offices and on the streets.

Earlier this summer, the federation canceled physical shows for couture and men’s fashion week, and set up an online platform for designers to showcase videos for their collections. Continue reading →

ORANGE IS THE NEW VUITTON

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The second drop of Louis Vuitton LV2 collection, the collaboration between men’s artistic director Virgil Abloh and Bape and Human Made founder Nigo, has arrived with a temporary residency in New York City, 116 Greene Street : SoHo NY New York.

The SoHo storefront has been transformed as well with a bright yellow facade with drip effect, as well as large sculptures of the LV Made duck, which is the symbol of the collection, turtle rugs inspired by Nigo’s Human Made rugs, customized drum sets at the entrance, oversized mannequins and custom Marshall and Louis Vuitton speakers with LV x Nigo logos all in bright yellow.

LV2, which is Abloh’s first collaboration for Louis Vuitton, was revealed in December 2019 and launched in June. The second drop that launched today is also available on the Louis Vuitton web site. Continue reading →

BOARD OF CARTIER IS ON THE DOCK

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The coronavirus crisis delayed changes to the board of Compagnie Financière Richemont as well as its business strategy, according to the group’s chairman Johann Rupert.

“The new profile of the board must reflect the opportunities and challenges that we’re facing, evolving tastes, consumption habits, digital, Chinese clientele, cyber criminalities, diversity and inclusion matters, training needs, change management,” Rupert said.

“So we will be changing the board and we would have started this year but we need time to also transition the committees,”.

Noting that he had urged caution early on in the coronavirus crisis when it became clear that the group’s cash flow was being “badly affected,” by the drop in consumption, the executive said that at the end of August, there remains uncertainty over when a treatment or vaccine might emerge to prompt consumers to resume traveling and spending money. Continue reading →

FAN RECOVERS HER FANS

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Chinese actress Fan Bingbing is back, two years after being fined nearly $130 million for a highly publicized tax-evasion scandal and avoiding the limelight as a result.

Now, she has a global contract with LVMH prestige beauty brand Guerlain, and appears in its Chinese Valentine’s Day campaign to promote the limited-edition Rouge G lipstick, which comes with pink heart motifs on the packaging.

Fan was ranked as China’s best-paid actress four years running, according to Forbes, and places among the world’s best-paid, with more than 130 endorsement contracts, including Louis Vuitton, Montblanc and De Beers at the height of her stardom.

She is also expected to star in the period drama;Win the World,a $70 million television series, and Universal Pictures upcoming spy film alongside Jessica Chastain, Penélope Cruz, Lupita Nyong’o and Sebastian Stan. Continue reading →

THE LORD OF LOUIS MING DYNASTY

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Louis Vuitton’s Biggest Shanghai Store Sees Record-High $22M in August Sales. Louis Vuitton is on track to make sales history in China amid a strong COVID-19 rebound.

Its flagship in Shanghai’s Plaza 66, the largest in China, is expected to make $22 million in August, usually the sales at the store come in between $11 million and $13 million.

Local press said showgoers flocked to the Plaza 66 store to pick up head-to-toe new season looks for the event of the summer, which helped send sales up. Fortunately it was not at 666 the number of sales devil.

The Chinese Valentine’s Day, were also key factors driving up August sales. The event has been a national phenomenon, with shoppers queuing outside luxury stores in recent weeks to get a hold of limited-edition items brands have released exclusively for the world’s biggest luxury market. The lords of luxury become the lord of the Louis ming dynasty. Continue reading →

RISE AND FALL FOR MASSIMO

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Mossimo Giannulli, Lori Loughlin Sentenced to Jail Time in College Admissions Scandal
Fashion Designer Mossimo Giannulli received five months jail time, while “Full House” actress Lori Loughlin received two months.

The fashion designer was sentenced to five months in prison Friday morning for his part in the nationwide college admissions scandal, just hours before his wife, “Full House” actress Lori Loughlin, learned her own fate. Loughlin, who was believed to have a less active role in the crimes, received two months of jail time.

The sentence was a clear message from U.S. District judge Nathaniel Gorton that college admissions cannot be bought. Giannulli also received two years of supervised release, 250 hours of community service and a $250,000 fine, while Loughlin received two years of supervised release, 100 hours of community service and a $100,000 fine. Continue reading →

CLEOPATRA OIL

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Cleopatra used to keep her skin radiant and glowing, Egyptian Magic cream has become a Cultural treatment all over the world. Olive oil is having a moment, both in and out of the kitchen. Whether induced by quarantine cooking or consumers’ growing predilection for all things clean, olive oil has found its way into baked confections and skin-care products alike. Lifestyle brand Poosh even recently collaborated with a Los Angeles-based bakery on a variety of olive oil cakes.

Furtuna is one of the brands capitalizing on the ingredient’s buzz. “It’s high in antioxidants and it also includes vitamins A, D and K, as well as E. It’s amazing what olive oil can do for your health. Furtuna Skin, founded by Luczo and Kim Walls, offers a range of products all enriched with Italian olive oil sourced from a 700-acre farm in Sicily. Continue reading →

THE DREAM OF ARNAULT BELGIUM

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It hopes that humor can serve to energize the local shopping scene, Le Bon Marché is filling the store with Belgium-themed merchandise starting Aug. 29, with an emphasis on the country’s cartoon tradition.

The Smurfs, Marsupilami and Gaston Lagaffe are among characters decorating the selling space as well as merchandise throughout the tony, Paris Left Bank department store and its neighboring food hall, La Grande Épicerie de Paris and even spilling out into the street, with stands selling beer and fries. I’d have preferred Balthazar Picsou.!!!

Retailers have been struggling to draw shoppers into stores even before the coronavirus crisis hit  it’s hard to compete with the convenience of online purchases turning to events and temporary, exclusive offers to drum up consumer interest. The store called on comedian Stéphane De Groodt to take part in the Belgium theme, resulting in hoodies, T-shirts and pouches with word play in French. A box of matches, for example, which are called “allumettes” in French, is stamped “allumeuses,” which means “teasers.” The theme runs through Oct. 18. Continue reading →

VIRTUAL FASHION FOR VIRTUAL CLIENTS

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August Getty’s couture is going virtual with the help of a new digital fashion shop, the Institute of Digital Fashion in London.

Created by Leanne Elliott Young, founder of creative hub CommuneEast, and Cattytay, founder of the Digi-Gxl network of women, trans and nonbinary 3-D artists, the company aims to animate the tactile vision and creativity of designers with AR and VR, while thinking about ways to push inclusivity, diversity and sustainability in fashion.

Their first high-profile client is the Los Angeles-based designer, whose eveningwear has been worn by sister-in-law Gigi Gorgeous, as well as by Kim Kardashian West, Paris Hilton, Miley Cyrus and Katy Perry, Since the couture institutions no longer invite them to Europe.

Cattytay and her digital atelier; are building an online world called Tinnitus, similar to a gaming world, in which Getty will debut his new collections. Continue reading →

KERING SAID …

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Kering said net profit fell 63.4 percent in the first six months of the year after the coronavirus pandemic.

Group revenues in the three months to June 30 fell 43.5 percent to 2.17 billion euros, representing a decline of 43.7 percent in comparable terms. This came on the heels of a 15.4 percent drop in the first quarter.

In percentage terms, the decline was greater than the one recorded by sector leader LVMH, which on Monday reported a 38 percent drop in second-quarter sales, but was below a consensus of analyst estimates, which called for a 48 percent fall.

Kering flagged an “encouraging” recovery as stores reopened, particularly in the Asia-Pacific region, and saw a 72.4 percent jump in online sales in the second quarter. But organic sales at its cash cow brand Gucci fell 44.7 percent during the period, compared with a 23.2 percent drop in the prior three months. Continue reading →