RICHEMONT A CARTIER TO 1.99

Sales at Compagnie Financière Richemont nearly halved in the first quarter to 1.99 billion euros, despite double-digit growth in China fueled by jewelry and fashion. Sales fell 47 percent in the three months to June 30 due to store and workshop closures, anemic tourism and a lack of appetite for hard and soft luxury worldwide during the pandemic.

China was the outlier, growing 49 percent in the period. As a whole, the Asia-Pacific region was down 29 percent, with sales of 1.01 billion euros, and was Richemont’s largest market in the period.

In Europe, sales fell 59 percent to 436 million euros, with all markets impacted by public health protection measures, as well as by subdued local demand and a lack of international tourism. In the Americas region, sales were down 61 percent to 277 million euros, while in Japan they fell 64 percent to 112 million euros.

The Middle East and Africa region fared slightly better, with sales falling 38 percent, partly reflecting advanced purchases in anticipation of Saudi Arabia’s VAT increase on 1 July. Continue reading

PRADA MINIMALISM

For her last collection as the solo Prada creative director starting from September she will be joined at the creative helm by Raf Simons Miuccia Prada let five artists interpret her spring effort through five short videos, offering different interpretations and takes on the men’s and women’s lineup.

The message, The pandemic, the economic crisis, the social tensions spreading around the globe can’t leave anyone indifferent, and cannot leave a sensitive designer like Prada unresponsive.

This is a moment that requires some seriousness, a moment to think and to reflect on things. What do we do, what is fashion for, what are we here for? What can fashion contribute, to a community?”

In keeping with her commitment, the designer embraced an unfussy yet highly sophisticated approach, minimal yet emotional. Combining function and aesthetics, she proposed the alpha and the omega of the brand’s fashion lexicon, exuding no nostalgia, only contemporary desirability.

Touches of Nineties minimalism emerged along with a subtle Sixties vibe, but Prada really focused only on what is relevant today, for boys and girls, men and women, living in our own world, with its joys and its limits. Continue reading

FRENCH HANDBAG 25 % MORE

The administration of President Trump said late Friday that it would impose 25 percent duties on $1.3 billion worth of French fashion goods, the response to a digital services tax in France that impacts companies such as Amazon, Apple, Google and Facebook.

The office of U.S. Trade Representative Robert Lighthizer said it would delay implementation of the action for up to 180 days if “the Trade Representative determines that substantial progress is being made, or that a delay is necessary or desirable to obtain U.S. rights or satisfactory solution.”

That gives the U.S. and France until Jan. 6 to hold “bilateral and multilateral discussions that could lead to a satisfactory resolution of this matter,” the USTR said. Continue reading

VIRGIL ABLOH RAISES $1M

Virgil Abloh said on Thursday he has raised $1 million for a scholarship fund for Black fashion students.

The founder of luxury streetwear label Off-White and artistic director of men’s wear at Louis Vuitton has entered a long-term partnership with the Fashion Scholarship Fund to launch the Virgil Abloh “Post Modern” Scholarship Fund, which is endowed with a personal donation from the designer and matching funds from his partners Evian, Farfetch, Louis Vuitton and New Guards Group. The sum will provide scholarships to between 100 and 200 students of academic promise of Black, African American, or African descent.

“I was a student on a campus that was largely not as diverse as the world is. And it4s important to set up this foundation specifically for Black students who may feel like in the industry of fashion, they don4t see many people that they can identify with,” he added. Continue reading

CHANEL ROCK COLLECTION

Which makes it all the more surprising that Viard emerged from lockdown with a couture lineup so unapologetically maximalist, it could have walked straight off an Eighties runway. Party dresses, bling and Marie-Antoinette shoes were just some of the ingredients of her presentation during the online edition of Paris Couture Week

“It’s an eccentric girl with a touch of the Eighties. I wanted something joyful,” the designer said in a preview last week, as photographer Mikael Jansson shot models Adut Akech and Rianne Van Rompaey in an adjoining studio for the show video: a one-minute, 22-second burst of images spliced with grainy black-and-white footage.

There was a historical feel to the ample skirts, including what would have been the traditional finale dress: a bucolic bridal creation with a pannier-width skirt and blousy sleeves, and a front panel covered in dozens of tiny pleated bibs.

Heavy, flower-shaped gold brooches set with diamanté and semi-precious stones sprouted from a collarless gray and white tweed jacket flecked with gold – the fruit of a collaboration between embroiderer Lesage and jeweler Goossens. Continue reading

DIOR A CATHEDRALE SAINT-HONORÉ

Interior garden, framed photos dotting the walls, vintage furniture and views of the Notre-Dame-de l’Assomption church. What a surprise a church facing Dior’s cathedral? Dior’s new five-story flagship at 261 Rue Saint-Honoré has the grandeur and intimacy of a Parisian apartment, But you can’t sleep there.

The boutique, which opened to the public on July 4, to please Donald Trump and after a dedicated day for VIP clients, is five times bigger than the store it replaces just down the street a major statement about the brand’s momentum, ambitions, and long-term view.

During a walk-through of the store on Thursday, Pietro Beccari, president and chief executive officer of Christian Dior Couture, drew a parallel to the founder. Continue reading

SOCIETY ROOM 3

Like a serie of “Charlie’s Angels”, borrowing their husband’s clothes, feminine expresses itself, with all outward signs of distinction forward, as a subtle way of wanting to touch the sublime and the chic at the same time. On Joe Dassin’s music and in a Loulou atmosphere, from the top of the “Falaise Louvre”, fashion, last Thursday evening, met to embrace each other without restriction with just only a touch down, and finally relive those furtive little moments of the Parisian presentations that we were finally missing so desperately. Continue reading

FASHION CRUISE ON THE SEINE

On the eve of the first digital fashion weeks in Paris for couture and men’s wear, Olivier Rousteing and Balmain are swooping in with a live, floating fashion and music spectacle, after doing 700 models in his kitchen, In addition he has built the baot in his Batheroom !!! He is very strong indeed.

A barge is to cruise down the Seine River on Sunday evening, giving anyone gathered on the banks or pedestrian bridges a view of vintage couture and other fashions, a mini concert by French singer Yseult, and a surprise dance performance. Dubbed Balmain Sur Seine, it’s Rousteing’s way of celebrating the end of lockdown in Paris, reaffirming its stature as the capital of fashion, and making luxury more democratic, who does not belong to the institutions of French fashion, is a heresy for a couturier who does not know how to sew! Continue reading

CARTIER HUSSEIN PACHA

Setting the bar for luxury in a coronavirus era, Cartier has called on a diverse cast of assured stars for this year’s blockbuster watch launch for the label the new Pasha edition that kicks off in China.

Rami Malek, Troye Sivan, Willow Smith, Maisie Williams and Jackson Wang for the campaign, which includes a movie with all five discussing creativity and achievement, as well as short films featuring each one, and images by photographer Craig McDean, all set to flood social channels starting July 1 in China. Continue reading

ANNUAL GENERAL MELTING

LVMH is seeing “fairly robust” signs of recovery in some of its activities in June after widespread shutdowns of its stores and factories in the first half of the year, chairman and chief executive officer Bernard Arnault said on Tuesday.

Speaking at the company’s annual general meeting, which was held online due to ongoing sanitary restrictions in France designed to limit the spread of COVID-19, Arnault said it was impossible to forecast the impact of the pandemic on the group’s annual sales and results since some regions were still in lockdown.

“We do not yet fully know the timetable for the return to normal in the different areas where the group is established and we do not know in particular when the virus will disappear, hopefully completely,” The lord said. Continue reading

I AM NOT BLACK BY CIRCUMSTANCE

Bet Awards give an awards to Assa Traoré who has nothing to do with the Fashion world! It does not make sens.

I really hope, as other awards shows start to come back, we will see more Black designers represented not just when it’s convenient,” said L.A. designer Claude Kameni.

There wasn’t an actual red carpet, but Sunday’s virtual BET Awards was an impressive showcase of Black style nonetheless, starting with host Amanda Seales, representing all Black-designed clothing, jewelry, hair-care and makeup brands, including a custom gown by Los Angeles-based rising fashion star Claude Kameni. We wanted to tell a story of Black creativity, pay homage to iconic moments of Black style, and amplify the work of these Black fashion innovators; said Seales.

The BETs are our Oscars, our Grammys, our everything, where we are able to show ourselves and have fun and show off; said her stylist Bryon Javar of the 13 looks, using pieces from Pyer Moss, Romeo Hunte, Sergio Hudson, Sister Love, Brother Vellies, Grayscale, Bishme Cromartie, Dapper Dan-Gucci and more, and paying homage to iconic moments in Black style history, from Hilary Banks Nineties power wardrobe in “The Fresh Prince of Bel-Air” to Janet Jackson’s fierce Rhythm Nation outfit. It made sense for this moment to celebrate Black everything Javar said. Continue reading

TAPS KENNETH AND KARL BRAND

Born in Lagos, Nigeria, and raised in Austria from age 4, the designer had previously shown at Arise Fashion Week in Lagos, and came on to the international radar as a finalist for the 2019 LVMH Prize for Young Fashion Designers.

Honoring its founder’s penchant for surprising collaborations, he has cooked up a capsule collection with buzzy designer Kenneth Ize, whose colorful, energetic fashions exalt Nigerian weaving and craft skills.

“The breadth of Karl’s work has been very inspiring to me, and it’s an honor to be working with his namesake maison,” Ize said, sharing details of the project first with WWD. “Our vision is to combine Karl’s Parisian-chic aesthetic with elements of traditional African artistry.”

Ize made a splash with his official Paris Fashion Week debut last February as Naomi Campbell closed the show, handily sparking a social-media sensation. Continue reading

PARIS FASHION READY FOR THE MESS

Paris Fashion Week will take place this fall with physical shows, augmented by a digital platform, French fashion’s governing body said on Wednesday. As usual, a weather vane would have been more accurate

The Spring 2021 women’s wear fashion week will be held from Sept. 28 to Oct. 6 and will comply for its implementation to the recommendations of public authorities.

The federation canceled couture and men’s fashion weeks this Summer due to the coronavirus pandemic. It has yet to release the schedules for the digital couture week, scheduled for July 6 to 8, and men’s shows, due to take place online from July 9 to 13. But why make it simple when you can make it complicated? Continue reading

SHAME ON ART

The art of shame or the shame of art! this is the ultimate for an Egyptian to have a “papy Russe”, and when this one is called Bergé it is linked to a traffic of antiques worth several tens of millions of euros that has been dismantled. It will shake up the fashion world, with five arrests, for hundreds of antiques sold in particular by the Pierre Bergé company, arts industry cultural looted in the Middle East in countries such as Egypt, Libya, Yemen and Syria. Continue reading

BURBERRY OUTDOOR SHOW

Riccardo Tisci is answering a cry from the great outdoors with plans to stage a Burberry presentation under British skies in September. Everyone’s invited to the spring 2021 outdoor shoW.

The show will take place on Sept. 17 Tisci’s lucky number and on the eve of London Fashion Week, which runs from Sept. 18 to 22. Burberry’s chief creative officer said he wanted to channel the “purity and simplicity of the outdoors” and redefine the fashion landscape through new forms of expression.

After Bambi a Tisci signature featured big in his first collection for the brand, while hand-sketched, painted and collaged animal prints have pranced and swung their way across jackets, bags and silk scarves. Continue reading

MEN’S STORE FOR ABLOH

Louis Vuitton is opening its first ever standalone men(s store in Tokyo. Originally scheduled to coincide with the Summer Olympic Games in the Japanese capital, the opening comes as the country’s economy is reopening cautiously against the backdrop of the coronavirus pandemic.

In line with the ongoing social distancing restrictions, the store in the new Miyashita Park mall will open on July 6 by appointment only. Advance booking online will be required until July 27. Continue reading

FAKE DRESSES FOR A FAKE DESIGNER

Olivier Rousteing and his team designed Balmain’s resort collection during the coronavirus pandemic, swapping images on WhatsApp and drafting in suppliers worldwide to get it made !!! Interesting !

Embroideries were done by old ladies working in their kitchen in the south of Italy, the myth of Haute Couture is killed in eggs. In Japan, they were working in their living room, you know in this very large apartment in Tokyo !!!

It was tough,” said the designer, who tried on the men’s prototypes in his Paris apartment. The fabrics were a real struggle because I was choosing by Zoom. It is a very difficult and great performance in fact, but so much easier than sewing a dress.

In the whole Balmain produced more than 400 looks for women and 300 for men, presented since June 15 in a digital showroom with an avatar of Rousteing acting as host and guide. But if you can make 400 models in your kitchen why not do away with the design studio ? Continue reading