JEAN PATOU BY HENRY

The fashion designer takes the reins at the storied fashion house, as Patou approaches its 100th anniversary. Guillaume Henry shares his ambitions for the French heritage brand, which has been dormant since the 1980s. With an out-of-the-ordinary vision, Henry hopes to awaken this sleeping beauty from a decades-long slumber.

This afternoon, Patou will present its first ready-to-wear collection designed by Guillaume Henry. The last time this French maison, founded in 1914 by Jean Patou, hit the runway, it was precisely in July 1986 during the Haute Couture presentations. The maison’s stylist at that time was Christian Lacroix and, the day after the show, Lacroix resigned and established his own label with the financial support of Bernard Arnault. From then on, the brand has merely been able to survive through its cosmetics and fragrance businesses – its fragrance “Joy” being particularly successful. A success which ultimately convinced the LVMH Group to acquire all of Patou’s activities in 2018 and repurpose the fragrance’s name within Christian Dior perfumes. Continue reading

JENNER ROUSTEING MAKEUP

Kylie Jenner is about to add a new line to her bulging résumé: Olivier Rousteing has asked the cosmetics entrepreneur to be the artistic director for makeup at his Balmain show during Paris Fashion Week.

To celebrate the event, Kylie Cosmetics and Balmain will launch a capsule collection for sale online on Sept. 27, the day of the show, available worldwide on Kylie Cosmetics; web site. Jenner will attend a party at the Balmain store on Rue Saint-Honoré on Friday to toast the collaboration, which includes lip color, eye shadow, and accessories incorporating makeup that will be unveiled at the show. Continue reading

DIOR UN GALOP D’ESSAI DE SAUVEGARDE

In the run-up to her spring 2020 runway show for Dior on Tuesday, the designer has been delving into the brand’s archives  and in particular its rich tradition of floral designs while trying to imagine how that heritage could be updated to address today’s climate crisis.

Her answer? A collaboration with the Paris-based landscape and urbanism collective Coloco on the set for the show, to be held at the Longchamp racecourse in Paris, which will feature 164 trees that will subsequently be replanted in four locations in and around the French capital.

Coloco, whose expertise ranges from botanical activism to ecological engineering, was founded on the idea that gardens should be collective endeavors. The show set was conceived as an “inclusive garden” that promotes the need for plant diversity as a response to climate change. Continue reading

UNITED COLORS OF JCCB

Jean-Charles de la Casa de Castel, newly appointed artistic director at United Colors of Baratton, (a cream!). But the question is: can a man over 70 rejuvenate a brand that is the most metaphorical in Italy, and thus restore confidence to these paranoid young Millennials who live around us and who think the world is full of evil people, to such an extent that they are taught in companies to be kind to their neighbours? A real highlight!

This is a challenge worthy of this son of “midge”. Your mission (if you accept it) will be to awaken the brand. Mission impossible? And, well, no, that’s it. The collection was perfectly balanced, playing between Luciano’s heritage more American than express, and with the inspiration of JCCB, which will not plunge us into the depths of the water or the “inherited bone”. It depends on.

This is the great return of the elders to the manoeuvre. Yes, the main inspiration was the idea of water, a link with travel and sailors. Would the foam have excited him so much to touch the pompom? Amazing for a straight guy! With a sailor like Popeye and a Lula in an ecological canvas background, this is a collection that is full of energy with its excess spinach. Continue reading

THE CADENCE OF MY HEART

Like a Japanese mask a resulting from a genetic mutation of the NÔ theatre and a tyrant, here is a hazardous drama in the detail where one cannot remain indifferent to the pathetic of a Japanese forgetting the values of the symbolism of Mount Fuji, where the origin of the sun is translated as “the Empire of the Rising Sun”, will not be justified in being a nauseous abscess. It is a couture out of memory, an organza from Japan and declined in more than 400 shades for a fashionable inspiration of the dresses of Cristobal Balenciaga, Lee Bowery or Sailor Moon, tells us the famous newspaper Magazine of fashion run without ever saying the name of the real designer, Stella Cadente. Continue reading

FASHION PACT OR ACT ?

One month after the ink dried on the G7 fashion pact Kering CEO François-Henri Pinault presented to world leaders in Biarritz last month, its marquis brand, Gucci, has gone completely carbon neutral.

Thursday, the Italian luxury brand said that it implemented manufacturing efficiencies to avoid and reduce its impact across the supply chain. It will also offset carbon emissions generated by preparations of its upcoming Spring/Summer fashion show by planting trees in Milan. “Gucci will continue to work in a smart and strategic way to avoid and reduce our impact, while simultaneously investing in innovation as a driver for sustainability,”

The environmental pact Pinault presented at the Group of 7 summit in Biarritz included 32 signatories including vanguard luxury companies Prada and Chanel, Nike, and fast fashion retailers like the H&M Group and Inditex, the parent company of Zara. Continue reading

VALLAT LEAVES RICHEMONT

Richemont’s fashion and accessories chief Eric Vallat is stepping down a little over a year after taking up the job. The parent of Cartier, IWC and Van Cleef & Arpels said Tuesday that Vallat will step down from his current position and from the senior executive committee for personal reasons. This change is effective Oct. 26, 2019.

Richemont’s chairman Johann Rupert said: “Eric has been offered a wonderful opportunity outside the group and I fully understand his decision to pursue it. The fashion and accessories businesses will report to Jérôme Lambert, group chief executive officer. Brands in Richemont’s fashion and accessories stable include Chloé, Dunhill and Maison Alaïa. Continue reading

DEVEAUX NEW YORK 2020

It’s the way most people shop, looking to update their look rather than doing a complete stylistic about-face.
Deveaux design by Tommy Ton isn’t about a wholesale discarding of pieces from season’s past, rather it’s about offering new ideas with garments people can slot into their existing wardrobe for an update on their personal style. create

His silhouettes in shades of camel, olive and creams. Standouts were a monochromatic sandy-colored ribbed tunic over a flared pant, easy jumpsuits and a mannishly proportioned suit in olive with a waist belt that produced a structured hourglass effect.
A black satin shirtdress felt seasonless and good for day or night, much like many of the looks in his collection.

He once again cast a wide net with his models, showing the collection on a mix of ethnicities, ages and gender expressions, all of which added to a joyful and exuberant update on his idea of uniform dressing.

FASHION WEEK EXTINCTION

Trump’s tariff war, the U.K. in Brexit chaos and Italy trying to cobble together a new government. There is a lot of news to keep up with this season, including Tom Ford’s imprint on the CFDA and the impact of luxury brands’ new diversity councils.

What’s likely to be the most pressing topic, though, is sustainability, especially with climate change reminder Hurricane Dorian creeping up the East Coast; 16-year-old Swedish environmental hero Greta Thunberg building momentum for the Sept. 20 global climate strike with her rallying cry, “The house is on fire, let’s act like it,” and Extinction Rebellion turning the heat up on the British Fashion Council. At least, there are 150 brands that can say they have signed French President Emmanuel Macron’s Fashion Pact.

But with the growing public outrage, will it be enough? Can fashion week save itself from extinction?

ONE MILLION BABY’S LIPSTICKS

Gucci sold more than 1 million lipsticks in the first month since the Alessandro Michele-designed line dropped in May.

At $38 each, that puts the Gucci brand at more than $38 million in retail sales for the lipstick launch. That could potentially put Gucci makeup ahead of industry projections, which estimated the collection would do more than $100 million in retail sales in the first year. Coty has held the Gucci beauty license since it bought it from P&G in 2016, and executives unveiled the Gucci numbers at the Barclays Global Consumer Staples Conference on Tuesday. Continue reading

CARTIER ROYAL WATCHES

Kate and Meghan own Cartier watches worth thousands of pounds – which is most expensive? Meghan Markle, 38, and Kate Middleton, 37, are both married into the Royal Family, and so have access to many luxuries in life. They both love Cartier watches, but whose is worth the most?

Meghan Markle and Kate Middleton are both style icons in their own rights. Since marrying into the Royal Family they have inspired items to sell out from a number of brands.

Their wedding dresses have inspired many, and Meghan guest edited the famous September Issue of British Vogue this year. Both women have penchant from watches from the same French brand, Cartier. Cartier is a jeweller founded as far back as 1847. It is now synonymous with expensive items, especially women’s watches. The brand also has a history long linked with the British Royal Family. Continue reading

BURBERRY COMMERCE ONLINE

Burberry is looking to augment its customer relationships beyond the physical store appointments by introducing a new Chat function within its mobile app.

The service, dubbed R Message, is by invitation-only and will be made available to the brand’s top-tier customers, allowing store associates to chat directly to their clients to book in-store private appointments, field product requests, as well as make sales on the platform with a seamless payment system created in partnership with Apple Pay. Continue reading

STEVE HIETT PASSED AWAY

Steve Hiett, best known as a photographer with a taste for deep color and eclecticism, died at age 79.

He had been hospitalized recently due to cancer, which he’d been fighting for several years, according to his agency D+V. Hiett died in Montpellier, France, having been based in Paris for many years, although born in England in 1940. He was with his wife Louise Despointes, whom he met as a model in the late Sixties and Seventies and went on to collaborate with often.

Although unable to work professionally in recent months due to his illness, Hiett was snapping shots for Instagram earlier this year. What appears to be his last public shot is a dark but artful picture of his hospital room at night, from his perspective in bed. Continue reading

FASHION PRICE POST MORTEM

His legendary fashion career was ignited by an award. In his twilight years, he acted as a judge for the LVMH Prize for Young Fashion Designers, leaving most contenders starstruck. And now he will be immortalized with a fashion prize in his name. LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton confirmed exclusively that its Special Prize will henceforth be named the Karl Lagerfeld Prize.

The first one is to be presented during the sixth edition of the contest on Sept. 4 at the Fondation Louis Vuitton.

“Karl Lagerfeld, creative director of the house of Fendi since 1965, was involved in the prize since its launch,” said Delphine Arnault, the force behind the high-profile design competition. “He was fully committed to it since Day One, transporting us with his enthusiasm and his energy, sharing with everyone, whether other jury members or candidates, his culture and his passion for fashion. We shall always cherish those precious moments.” Continue reading