SAMANTA LEATHER GROUP

Chanel has acquired a stake in Italian tannery Samanta, a specialist in printed leather, as it continues to secure its supply chain in the face of a growing shortage of high-quality leather.

In a rapidly changing luxury market and leather industry, the two companies have decided to join forces to help Samanta further develop its unique offering, recognized by the biggest names in luxury. For Chanel, Samanta’s expertise and technical know-how represents a real added value for the leather industry as a whole.

Samanta’s expertise in printed leather will be especially useful for Chanel, which announced last year that it would no longer use exotic skins including crocodile, lizard, snake and stingray, and would instead rely on the know-how of its in-house ateliers to create high-end products. Continue reading

L’ORÉAL TALKS WITH CLARINS

L’Oréal is diving deeper into the designer perfume business, disclosing Tuesday that it’s in exclusive talks to acquire the Mugler fragrance and fashion businesses, and the Azzaro fragrance brand and accessories. It sets the stage for the world’s biggest beauty company to dabble in fashion once more, while Groupe Clarins will exit the perfume and ready-to-wear markets altogether to focus on skin care.

“The perfume category is at the heart of our global strategy for growth at L’Oréal Luxe,” said Cyril Chapuy, president of that division. “In this context, we would be thrilled to welcome Mugler and Azzaro: These signatures, with a long history in fashion and olfaction, would perfectly complete our portfolio of brands.”

“This is a strategic move, whose goal is to refocus and reinvest to unleash the full potential of Clarins. Mugler’s portfolio of perfumes includes the blockbuster Angel women’s scent, which pioneered the gourmand olfactive family when it launched in 1992, and Alien, that’s now an even a bigger bestseller. Continue reading

BELLETINI PRESIDENT

Francesca Bellettini succeeds Chanel’s Bruno Pavlovsky as president of the governing body of women’s fashion in France. Saint Laurent chief executive officer Francesca Bellettini has been elected president of the Chambre Syndicale de la Mode Féminine, the governing body of women’s fashion in France.

Bellettini succeeds Bruno Pavlovsky, president of fashion at Chanel and president of Chanel SAS. Pavlovsky and Chloé ceo Geoffroy de la Bourdonnaye were voted in as vice presidents at a meeting of the Chambre Syndicale’s general assembly on June 20. Continue reading

THE BIRD BY CLARE WAIGHT KELLER

With the Givenchy collection she showed on Tuesday night, Clare Waight Keller indicated a shift from the more clearly clinical perspective from which she created her first three couture collections for Givenchy, creating some quite beautiful clothes along the way, to that of a storyteller who now also buys into the wonderment of couture. Backstage post-show, she didn’t lead with the importance of precision cuts or modernist restraint. Rather, she dubbed the collection Noblesse Radicale.

“I wanted to kind of step it up a notch for myself,” she said. “I wanted to push it into something that has a little more theater.”

Waight Keller went back and forth between the smart elegant tailoring that she’s made a priority at Givenchy to beautifully crafted gowns, some constructed to nth degree, some more deliberately haphazard, their voluminous sleeves or skirts festoons of fabric taken from those imaginary curtains and secured by drawstrings. Continue reading

DIOR LAST DAY AV MONTAIGNE

A giant Jack and the Beanstalk faux redwood in charcoal creeping up four floors up through the stairway, fabulous black and white paintings and a string quartet in white Grecian robes playing Vivaldi. Ironically, the show was staged just days before the house begins a massive reconstruction of its historic headquarters on Avenue Montaigne. Continue reading

JOSSE LA FEMME DES SABLES

MINZOO BRAND SHANGHAI

The MINZOO brand is dedicated to creating a stylish IP with ethnic characteristics and bringing it to the international market. Apply intangible cultural heritage to modern daily life design, digg up new design power, make Chinese national culture fashionable, meet fashion and related industry insiders to find and inspire while at the same time promote the national special handicraft culture to the international market. Continue reading

PYER MOSS 250 $

Following its debut in pink, the Reebok Experiment 3 by Pyer Moss will be returning in a white colorway.  Pyer Moss was founded in 2013 by Kerby Jean-Raymond. Jean-Raymond describes the brand as an “art project” or “a timely social experiment” at times. Pyer Moss aims to use its voice and platform to challenge social narratives and evoke dialogue.

Pyer Moss continues to redefine itself every season with collections and runways that combine storytelling, activism, debate, theatre and social commentary; all while using collaboration with artists and brands as a medium to further the dialogue around seasonal themes. Continue reading

PARIS GOOD FASHION

Following the launch of the sustainable initiative Paris Good Fashion in January, founder Isabelle Lefort received a flood of reactions to the project, which was sparked by the city of Paris and supported by the Institut Français de la mode, LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton and the Galeries Lafayette.

Six months later, Kering, Chanel, Richemont and SMCP are also now on board, as well as both the French couture and ready-to-wear federations, textile trade show Première Vision and even fashion model Arizona Muse.

"It revealed there has clearly been a global awakening, but now everyone needs to sit round a table to discuss and exchange ideas for concrete actions’s Continue reading

KENZO GOOD BYE, LES LIM

Carol Lim and Humberto Leon were bidding a poignant farewell after nearly a decade as creative directors. The moving retrospective, which opened and closed the show, was choreographed by Léo Lerus. Some 5,000 guests attended, including members of the public, fashion students and Kenzo staff.

Fluttery strips of fabric, like little waves, lined the front and back of a navy dress, while halter tops with puff sleeves had a liquid sheen. One hoodie came with a toile de jouy like design and a big sailing ship, while sailor collars or fishing net panels adorned jackets.

This farewell should have come as no surprise to those familiar with Lim and Leon, whose shows have long included live bands, dance troupes and traditional Japanese theater, in a nod to the house’s founder, Kenzo Takada. LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton has so far been mum on its succession plan in order not to taint Leon and Lim’s final show.

But according to sources, Kenzo is zeroing in on a contract with Portuguese designer Felipe Oliveira Baptista, who last year wrapped an eight-year tenure as creative director of Lacoste. Continue reading

FIRST DAY PFW BY OFF WHITE

Off-White opened the second day of Paris Fashion Week with a controversial show. The subject of the debate wasn’t the clothes but the end of the presentation. Rewind.

The set was a huge stage mounted inside the Carreau du Temple made of plywood: people were sitting all around a big flower bed with musk and white carnations.

But the finale shook up the entire audience. The models came out in groups stomping on the flowers and devastating the bucolic atmosphere. We could naively interpret this as bad boys that violate the “keep off the grass” sign. Continue reading

BARTOLOMEO AT BOTTEGA’S

Kering has named Bartolomeo Rongone as chief executive officer of Bottega Veneta, succeeding Claus-Dietrich. Rongone’s appointment will be effective beginning Sept. 1, making him the third former Saint Laurent executive to take on a ceo role at Kering.

Rongone was previously chief operating officer of Saint Laurent in charge of ready-to-wear, leather goods and shoes, as well as global retail operations and client engagement. He joins Bottega Veneta at a time of rapid change for the brand, which last year hired Daniel Lee as creative director.

The Italian executive, 48, will report to François-Henri Pinault, chairman and ceo of Kering. Continue reading

PERFUME AWARDS WINNERS

Accademia del Profumo, the Italian association of cosmetics companies promoting the history of perfume, culture and art, named its annual award winners here on Tuesday.

Giorgio Armani’s Sì Passione and Dior Sauvage Eau de Parfum were named best fragrances of the year in the women’s and men’s categories, respectively, as a result of the votes of consumers. Continue reading