PARIS FASHION GEEK 2022

The next “Paris Fashion Week” will count 92 houses including: “Paul Smith”, a Frenchman from the “perfidious Albion”, and “Raf Simonstre”, who are making their comeback on the official calendar of the Federation of Haute Couture and Fashion, having no one else to invite but old-timers! Nine days of presentation, from Monday 27 September to Tuesday 5 October, will take place in the traffic jams of the Magot Queen. To begin with, a must-see Kenneth Ize, the Austrian-Nigerian designer and finalist of the Lord’s Prize, and the season will end with a dead man, Albert Elbaz, with a show of his very young fashion house AZ Factory, but between dead men, they recognize each other.

The other Christian Dior, Balmain, Hermès, Balenciaga, Givenchy, Chanel, Miu Miu and Louis Vuitton will be organising shows in person, but only the Florentines, shoe-shiners and Instagrammers will be invited for a return to the shows of yesteryear on the sly, and at this word alone, the bimbos will say: “Catimini, I love Italian cars”. Don’t forget the Fringant flop, which judges fashion in one minute. Continue reading

MOSCHINO FULL CONTROL

Aeffe SpA on Wednesday revealed that it was raising its stake in Moschino to take full control of the brand. Aeffe shares closed up 6.38 percent at 1.60 euros at the end of trading.

Aeffe already controls the Alberta Ferretti, Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini and Pollini labels. “Moschino is strategic for us and this is an important step in our medium-long term growth strategy, Aeffe’s executive chairman Massimo Ferretti told . Having full control over the Moschino brand, we are now in the best conditions to manage all activities related to the brand’s value chain, from product to quality and with positive effects on image, distribution and communication.

The acquisition will allow Aeffe to take action in a more powerful way, and will help integrate all of the women's apparel collections into Aeffe. We will be able to manage the brand autonomously and decide its strategic positioning, explained Ferretti.

Aeffe’s manufacturing plant is in San Giovanni in Marignano, near the beach town of Italy’s Cattolica, on the Adriatic Sea. Continue reading

FRAGONARD LE ROUGE BERNARD

Fragonard, this month it opened a guest house, called Maison Fragonard, at 7/9 Rue du Palais in Arles with six bedrooms in three apartments each spanning one floor.

Three years ago, Agnès Webster, who serves as chief executive officer of Fragonard, and her sister purchased a collection of traditional Arlésien costumes from a friend of their mother's. They’d decided to create a museum to display them in an old mansion there, and then thought to open a 1,290-square-foot boutique in a house of numerous floors, also in Arles.

They had an idea for the floors above the shop: to make guest rooms that would serve the sisters when they were in town but otherwise be guest rooms decorated to show the brand’s art de vivre and interior decor. Continue reading

PHOEBE PHILO AND THE LORD

Phoebe Philo is returning to fashion with an independent, namesake house and with LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton as a investor.

The acclaimed British designer would create clothing and accessories "rooted in exceptional quality and design," and would divulge more details about her new brand in January 2022.

With a powerful silent partner LVMH. I have greatly appreciated discussing new ideas with Bernard Arnault and Delphine Arnault and I am delighted to be embarking on this adventure with their support.

The designer has been keeping a low profile since exiting Celine at the end of 2017. In one of her first public projects, she signed on to be a juror for the 2021 ANDAM awards, which were presented in Paris earlier this month.

It is unusual, though not unprecedented, for LVMH to back a new brand. Its core expertise lies in animating heritage brands like Louis Vuitton, Dior and Fendi with buzzy designers, celebrity ambassadors, retail razzmatazz and spectacular press and client events. Continue reading

THE POWER OF HAUTE COUTURE

It is like a sun that suddenly breaks through the clouds to reveal a landscape where a city flooded with light in a second transforms everything without changing anything. Haute Couture transforms not reality, but the perception we have of it. At the first show, sometimes, suddenly, it bathes us with an irresistible ray, and with such force, that it makes us irremediably happy like a prick of the happiness needle. And there, apart from all aesthetic considerations, it makes your reality vibrate. This is how beauty and emotion come together in the evidence of a life sublimated by a dress that some people call the “Garment” but, forgive them Lord, they do not know what they are saying.

Beauty is enough to give meaning to this passing life. But, unfortunately, we live in a world where the beautiful and the ugly merge and we do not have the capacity to separate them, because some Men of the Court, who constitute it, wish to draw some substances that life imposes on them just to change their car. Continue reading

RICHEMONT ACQUIRES DELVAUX

Richemont acquires Delvaux, so Philippe Fortunato “a predestined name” and Managing Director of fashion houses and accessories at Richemont, hailed Delvaux’s heritage, know-how and exceptional manufacturing capabilities. The house’s rich archives and creative momentum over the past decade provide a solid foundation for the company’s long-term development, strengthening Richemont’s presence at the top of the global leather goods industry, putting a dagger in the side of the Lord of the Arnault, and that is not a Belgian story.

Founded in 1829, Delvaux is considered as the oldest luxury leather goods house in the world, the first to patent leather handbags in 1908, and the brand was one of the first luxury companies to introduce seasonality into its collections in the 1930s. Official supplier to the Royal Court of Belgium since 1883, it boasts an archive of over 3,000 designs, all of which are patented. Continue reading

MARCO GOBBETTI QUITS BURBERRY

Marco Gobbetti is stepping down as CEO of Burberry, and will leave his post at the end of 2021 after nearly five years on the job.

The company said Monday he is leaving to take up another opportunity "that will enable him to return to Italy and be closer to his family.

He will be taking up the role of general director and CEO of Salvatore Ferragamo.

The hunt is on for his successor, said Burberry, adding that Gobbetti will work with chairman Gerry Murphy to provide full support to the executive leadership team on an orderly transition.

At Ferragamo, Gobbetti will step into the shoes of Micaela Le Divelec Lemmi, who was appointed in 2018.

HANDBAG RENTAL

Kering Invests in Luxury Handbag Subscription Rental, a London-based subscription platform for luxury handbag rentals.

The business, which launched in November 2019, has completed a new funding round with Kering as the newest investor. Cocoon’s model is rental rather than resale, with customers choosing from a variety of memberships that currently give them access to more than 35 luxury brands including Gucci, Dior, Prada and Chanel. Subscribers choose from flexible monthly and quarterly plans, and can keep the bags for a set period of time.

The handbags arrive at customers’ homes packaged with personalized notes as if they were gifts, but they are not for sale. Instead, they’re on constant rotation, with styles updated and refreshed by the Cocoon team in step with runway and social trends.

Ceanne Fernandes-Wong, chief executive officer and cofounder of Cocoon, said that with Kering’s “incredible history, proven track-record of innovation and deep luxury knowledge, it’s fantastic to have investment from such a powerful market leader.” Continue reading

SNEAKER IN PINAULT WOOD

After two years of in-house research and development, Gucci is unveiling an innovative and groundbreaking animal-free luxurious material called Demetra.

Demetra contains upward of 77 percent plant-based raw materials and is made of viscose and wood pulp compound from sustainably managed forest sources as well as bio-based polyurethane from renewable sources. Back in the wood business for Pinault it makes sense !

Produced entirely in Italy in Gucci’s factory, the new material is using the same expertise and processes for tanning, which ensures that, in addition to offering top quality, the material is soft, durable, resilient and pliable, claimed the company. Price will be between 590 and 790 euros. Continue reading

YANA BESFAMILNAYA

Nothing is constant in this world. Everything changes, evolves and transforms each day and everyday. Transformation is everything and everything is transformation. Take a risk and transform, invent, switch looks, play fashion, be badass, make a statement and be sexy.

“I started designing kids clothes when my first child Sophia was born and became a designer. Now looking back into the past, I realize that this was not the beginning. As a child I used to draw models in beautiful dresses in cla “I started designing kids clothes when my first child Sophia was born and became a designer.

Now looking back into the past, I realize that this was not the beginning. As a child I used to draw models in beautiful dresses in classes. Fashion design was always my passion” says Yana Besfamilnaya, the founder and designer. She started with local sewing courses, design courses then graduated Central Saint-Martin’s and NABA Milan fashion courses and ran her first womenswear collection. This was followed with a lot of self-seeking, great amount of hand embroidery, couture design and hard working on searching of the brand identity. Continue reading

FOCUS ON 3 ANDAM PRIZE COMPETITORS

To my opinion, there are only 3 out of 14th competitors to eventually win the ANDAM Grand Prize, The winner will receive 300,000 euros and a year of coaching from Balenciaga’s chief executive officer Cédric Charbit who is  the president of the jury this year. You will more information on the 3 finalists to be followed hereafter

GMBH

Berlin is known for its free and uninhibited underground parties. It is in the clubs of this temple of techno that the founders of GmbH, Serhat Isik and Benjamin Alexander Huseby, meet.

Serhat Işık and Benjamin A. Huseby established the Berlin-based label GmbH in 2016, quickly gaining a reputation for sustainable practices and an aesthetic that references underground club culture, migration, politics, queerness and more. Their gender-fluid collections are known for innovative tailoring, streetwear cool and subversive touches, with their fall 2021 collection boasting sensual off-the-shoulder coats and jackets worn by men.

Last month, Işık and Huseby were named creative directors of Trussardi and will present their first Fall collection on 2022.

Işık is a first-generation German of Turkish descent and Huseby, of Norwegian-Pakistani heritage, grew up in Norway. Cultural mixes and a sense of otherness have informed GmbH, and the city and cultural scene of Berlin have also shaped their approach. Last year GmbH was a finalist for the Woolmark Prize. Continue reading

SAMARITAINE ET CHEVAGE BLANC

It turns out the reopening of La Samaritaine remains a moving target. Having announced that the Right Bank department store would open its doors on June 19, following a 750-million-euro refurbishment, luxury conglomerate LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton said on Tuesday the reopening would finally take place on June 22 or 23, due to internal scheduling conflicts. Continue reading

RATS ARED DESERTING THE FASHION SHIP

Saint Laurent intends to stage a physical fashion show in Venice in July, featuring an installation by artist Doug Aitken commissioned by the label’s creative director Anthony Vaccarello.

Known for his site-specific installations and happenings, Aitken won the International Prize at the Venice Biennale in 1999 for his hypnotic video installation Electric Earth, which explored a black man’s journey though the contemporary American landscape.

The timing would suggest that it will be a men’s collection. In recent years, Saint Laurent has skipped Paris Men’s Fashion Week, instead staging annual itinerant shows in New York City and Malibu.

The brand, owned by luxury conglomerate Kering, was the first to announce last year that it would drop out of Paris Fashion Week .It’s like rats deserting a sinking ship. Continue reading