A SOUL IN THE EYE

At the heart of the luxury goods and perfume industry, where every detail counts and design is king, a singular and enigmatic figure emerges: a bottle designer like Serge Mansau and Pierre Dinand in their day. But not just any designer: this one doesn’t work for the big name brands, but rather for some completely unlikely ones. Here’s a look at an artist who’s going against the grain.

While the world of fashion and luxury is dominated by the big houses of the Lord of Arnault and the Prince of Venice, this designer deliberately chooses to stray from the beaten track to make a name for himself. Why design bottles for Chanel, Dior or Gucci when you can design “Ce n’est pas drôle c’est Marrant” for Isabelle, “A mon Aix” for Jacquemus, or “un Ami qui vous veut du bien” for AMI perfume?

He challenges norms and expectations, questions established values and offers a subtle but powerful critique of the excessive superficiality that often characterises the world of luxury and the lack of humour, a powerful factor in memorisation. His approach provokes conversation, fuels social media and challenges established conventions. Ultimately, this designer manages to kick-start even the very universe he deliberately chooses to defy.

Continue reading

AND THE WINNER IS LVMH

Natalie Portman wearing Dior couture. Louis Vuitton’s fashion brand juggernaut, which has tripled in size in less than seven years, dressed 19 celebrities at Sunday’s Golden Globes.

In a Dior Haute Couture, Natalie Portman channeled her character in Saltburn while Rosamund Pike wore Dior Haute Couture

In a black silk wool peak-lapel tuxedo and black embroidered shirt, Dior men’s artistic director Kim Jones dressed 12 guests, including Succession winner Kieran Culkin.

Styled by Petra Flannery, Emma Stone wore a custom deep-V gown with flower embellishments and Louis Vuitton high jewelry.

Barry Keoghan wore a red Damier-patterned Louis Vuitton suit with a punk edge from the men’s spring 2004 collection with pearl buttons and a pearl wallet chain. For the Golden Globes the winner is LVMH, congratulation Lord.

VERY SPEEDY PROCESSING P9

The French luxury brand has redoubled its deployment, including a temporary establishment on Avenue des Champs-Élysées in Paris and a takeover of its Fifth Avenue flagship in New York, both entirely decorated with the checkerboard pattern. . . it was the keystone of Monsieur Happy’s spring 2024 collection.

During Vuitton’s pre-fall men’s show in Hong Kong in early December, Williams took a quick business trip to China, which coincided with the installation of three giant Speedy airbags: one on the exterior of the Louis Vuitton house . . Chengdu lighthouse. and two in Shanghai, one of which ran down the Huangpu River into the city.

According to research and data analytics company Launchmetrics, the show had a media impact value of $42.6 million. The event broke records by garnering 775 million views on Vuitton-owned platforms and an additional 300 million video views on press accounts, the brand said, but no orders! Continue reading

THOM BROWNE PRE 2024

Thom Browne or the external sign of inner wealth, for one of the most personal collections he has ever presented. With its sense of shimmering color from the last collection, it is a perfect opposite because the gray now “relieves” it. Thom’s color this season, this gray symbolizes refinement, maturity, and conservatism in a cleverly constructed cocktail of the upcoming Trumpist wave.

There is a pleated skirt, Tartan type, an inexhaustible source of creations for Scots on the go, which could make Vivienne Westwood and Alexander McQueen out of date. The collection of an androgynous artist, who praises my wandering spirit as a Jew and Greek shepherd to the “faith”.

And despite everything, it is poetry from another time delivered in this sumptuous, inaccessible and insane setting of the Big Apple, initiated for an unfailing pleasure for the eye. Giving is a physical and psychological need, and the adrenaline of a heart in search of pleasure is also shared together in the city of “Taxi Driver” and Edgar Allan Poe.

FM

LVMH AND CHANEL GIVES LESSONS

The French want to take over global luxury under the patronage of the Marand nap. LVMH and the Lord Bernard Arnault also acknowledged LVMH and Chanel’s collaboration. The environmental challenge redefines the usual rules of competition, said the chairman and CEO. According to Lord Arnault, competition should focus on design and creativity, and businesses should share information. But the real reason is to get familly hands on global luxury.

According to Antoine Arnault, the two groups have the same vision of luxury and will have to work together to move faster. As part of a video interview, Chanel SAS president Bruno Pavlovsky discussed the importance of building a relationship between the groups that often source from the same suppliers.

“I believe it is our duty to know how to rise above the usual patterns. This is why we have chosen to invite certain competitors today,” he added. “Progress of any kind is crucial. We must join forces.” The name of the game from now on for us is going to be Scope 3. Continue reading

CHANEL FISH AND CHEAP

On Wednesday evening, a handful of tall Bimbos, sitting in the stands of the football stadium, located in the county of Greater Manchester, were waiting for the next day’s show. Did she know that the venue, built in 1909, is the home of Manchester United? This stadium was destroyed by German bombings during the Second World War, when Mademoiselle Chanel slept with a Wehrmacht officer. We prefer the memory of her affair with Hugh Grosvenor, the region’s second Duke of Westminster and the richest man in Britain, which reminds us that Coco was already very international.

This year, after Dakar, Chanel chose the black of Coke from Manchester, a mining town. For Haute Couture Bimbos, a shock of cultures contrasts with the destinations of yesteryear: heavenly beaches and champagne galore. For me it will be a wetsuit jacket in my Rimowa. Thank you Lord, and I’m taking the “Poudlard Express” for a Métiers d’Art parade which is ultimately a return to basics, because the city in the 19th century was driven by the textile industry where half of the world’s cotton passed through its factories. ; triangular slave trade obliges.

Continue reading

BE VIGILANTE AT ROCHAS

As its new creative director of ready-to-wear, Rochas has selected Italian designer Alessandro Vigilante. Under Alessandro Michele, he worked also for Dolce and Gabbana, Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini, and Gucci.

He was a known commodity to Interparfums SA, the parent company of Rochas and Philippe Bénacin, the chairman and chief executive officer, revealed in an exclusive interview that Vigilante quietly started working for Rochas in May, contributing to its spring 2024 collection.

During Paris Fashion Week in February, he will unveil his first official collection for Fall 2024. A return to the runway is planned for September 2024 in a presentation format, according the group.

According to Vigilante, the brand was immediately understood by Vigilante, which will create a new identity while building on its codes of elegance, audacity, femininity, and sophistication. We will stay Vigilante.

Continue reading

A NEW CEO IN STELLA

Amandine Ohayon has been appointed CEO of Stella McCartney. She will be based in London and will replace Gabriele Maggio, who joined the company four years ago and will leave next month to pursue other opportunities, according to an anonymous source he will join the LVMH group.

Amandine was most recently CEO of Pronovias and has spent much of her career in the beauty industry, working with brands such as YSL Beauty and Armani Beauty.

In her new role at Stella McCartney, she will help elevate the house and accelerate its development based on its long-standing commitment to sustainable fashion, with a very corporate message.

Continue reading

WOULD THE LORD LEAVE THE SHIP?

Mansvelt succeeds Antoine Arnault, Bernard Arnault’s eldest son, who has held the position since 2012 and will now remain as Chairman of Berluti, Chairman of Loro Piana, and in charge of Image and Environment for LVMH.
Arnault said: “I am very happy and quite emotional to welcome Jean-Marc as the new CEO of Berluti, building on the values of elegance, audacity and unique “savoir-faire”.

Continue reading

SAKS FIFTH AVENUE J’ADIOR

Dior’s Carousel of Dreams at Saks marks the retailer’s first exclusive collaboration with a luxury fashion house for its annual holiday initiative. The largest acquisition in Saks history took 10 months of planning by 100 artisans and involved designing and manufacturing objects in Italy for the Saks building and flying them to New York, hello eco planet.

Saks’ annual holiday celebration, which begins with its magnificent light show on Fifth Avenue, is one of the most anticipated, spectacular and enchanting in the world.

Marc Metrick, CEO of Saks, and Delphine Arnault, president and CEO of Dior, were introduced Monday evening at the unveiling in front of the flagship product.

LOUBOUTIN AND KNOCK-OFF

Earlier this week, Meta and Christian Louboutin filed a lawsuit against a Mexican individual accused of running a counterfeiting operation.

On Thursday, Meta and Louboutin filed a lawsuit in the Northern District of California alleging Cesar Octavio Guerrero Alejo violated Meta’s terms of service and Instagram’s terms of use and infringed Christian Louboutin’s intellectual property rights by using Facebook and Instagram accounts to promote counterfeit Christian Louboutin products.

In violation of Meta’s terms, Cesar Octavio Guerrero Alejo has operated an online business trafficking in counterfeit goods, including fake Louboutin-branded shoes, handbags, and accessories, starting in June 2020 and continuing until May 2023.

According to the lawsuit, Alejo created and maintained at least 44 Facebook user accounts from May 3, 2010, to Jan. 11, 2023, as well as 32 Instagram accounts from Oct. 15, 2015, to Dec. 28, 2022. Continue reading

ANNE FONTAINE IN MADISON

Thirty years after starting her company, Anne Fontaine was understandably reflective before Thursday night’s launch party for her Madison Avenue store.

While guests mingled in the Gabriel Kowalski-designed space, the designer and her cofounder husband Ari Zlotkin detailed future plans and one life-changing experience that left an indelible imprint on Fontaine.

Some of last year’s gains were due to opening a Monaco store, relocating stores in Florence and Zurich and a revival in sales in the company’s Paris flagship, he added, adding that the number of high-end travelers from Russia, China and the Middle East have declined in Europe, due to ongoing military and political conflicts, including the Israel-Hamas war.

Continue reading

BURBERRY A BAR IN NEW YORK

Burberry is taking its Streets   to New York, opening the Knight Bar, a temporary takeover of Temple Bar in NoHo, and recreating a small corner of London.

For seven days, from Friday to Nov. 16, the bar will be decorated in a new Burberry red check and serve a special menu curated by Norman’s, the North London café famous for its English muffins, scrambled eggs, sausages, battered fish and hash browns. Continue reading

JORG G BUCHERER DEAD AT 87

Jörg Gerold Bucherer, the chairman and third generation of the now Rolex-owned watch and jewelry retailer Bucherer, died on Monday at the age of 87.

A grandson of watchmaker Carl-Friedrich Bucherer, who opened a shop in Lucerne, Switzerland, in 1888, distributing his own designs before launching his own brand in 2001, followed by timepieces from others.

In the 1920s, Carl Eduard and Ernst joined the business, and Ernst struck a deal with Rolex founder Hans Wilsdorf to distribute the brand.

The son of Carl Eduard Bucherer, Jörg Bucherer took over the Switzerland-based business in 1977, expanding it to Austria in the following years then Germany in the 90s. Continue reading