A GIFT OF “SILK

Antoine Arnault, who had been appointed head of communications and image for the LVMH group (Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton), is truly a master of communications. Surfing on the Restos du Cœur for 10 million euros is certainly a stroke of genius. And all the while, the Insoumis are getting in their faces comments like “Did they donate any of their parliamentary ‘alimony’ to the Restos du Coeur?”

The group’s success, more powerful than that of oil company Total last year in the CAC 40 stock market rankings, imposes its strategy ahead of the Pinault group, whose Lord says: “the only diploma François has for assets is his driver’s license.” Let’s hope that by digging deeper into his differentiation from the other groups, he doesn’t end up finding oil! He might even sell it to us for perfume.

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EVENTS AROUND THE BOOK

For twenty years Jean-François Spricigo has developed an artistic language of rare power, mixing different photographic writings often nourished by dialogue with writing, sounds, video or staging. At the foundation of this radical work, the intense relationship with nature which animates the artist, refuting any hierarchy between forms of life: “Humbly, I observe nature and recognize it as the only tangible norm in the face of the changes in our societies” . As the only place, also, of possible reconciliation between the imaginary and the real.

The book Wild Prayer, published in 2021, testified to the strength and integrity of this journey.

We the horizon will remain alone (title to be read in two groups of words), is a story of recent travels on the island of Reunion, in Mayotte and in Guyana, for an intimate quest for the sensitive, thus marking a new stage in the work of the artist. Inspired by the fierce and indomitable dimension of overseas coastlines, this new book relates, in words and images (but also in sounds during a show), the memories of human and animal encounters, and echoes of ever-renewed wonder at the immensity of life.

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KERING BEAUTY

The French luxury house announced in early February that it had taken its beauty activity back in-house, and appointed Raffaella Cornaggia as CEO of Kering Beauté.

Bottega Veneta, Balenciaga, Alexander McQueen, Pomellato, and Qeelin asked her to develop a beauty team.

In late June, Kering Beauté made the bold move of acquiring Creed, the oldest existing high-end niche fragrance house. The deal was reportedly worth 3.5 billion euros.

During a call regarding Kering’s half-yearly 2023 results, François-Henri Pinault said Creed had revenues of around 250 million euros in 2022, with a very high EBITDA margin.

Creed was acquired after Kering chased Tom Ford International, which was ultimately acquired by Estée Lauder Cos. Inc., for $2.3 billion. A reported 1 billion euros was paid by Puig for luxury brand Byredo, which Kering was interested in acquiring.

FRAGRANCE HERITAGE A NICHE MARKET

The Cherigan Paris 1929 fragrance brand was discovered by Luc Gabriel in 2016, 87 years after its launch and more than a half century after its demise. The name cheri, French for darling, and gant, French for glove, intrigued him. Cherigan was part of the Art Deco period, which Gabriel adores.

As the executive learned, the brand had created iconic perfumes such as Chance, Parisienne, Bleu Impérial and Fleurs de Tabac. It owned a store on Paris’ Champs-Élysées. In the U.S., Australia, and France, Gabriel found some vintage Cherigan bottles and sampled their scents.

In faraway lands such as Cuba and the U.S., Cherigan was highly regarded by jetsetters. The label went under in the 1960s, so Gabriel purchased the rights from various people before relaunching it in 2022.

It’s spreading to other domains. Beauty brands with a sense of place and history are becoming increasingly popular. Ditto for make-believe heritage brands emitting a true identity. Continue reading

FLAG CHEAP FOR DIOR

As temples of luxury as well as tourist attractions, Dior Paris 30 Montaigne and Tiffany & Co’s Landmark boutique in New York set the tone. In order to increase traffic and productivity per square foot, luxury boutiques must now become “even more attractive.”

The Avenue Montaigne complex, which opened in March 2022, includes several restaurants, a museum, and a hotel suite. in addition to the home, beauty and fine jewelry departments. This Dior project is unique in that it combines a museum, several leisure spaces, a “total immersion” Dior and above all an immersion in your wallet.

In Shanghai’s Plaza 66, Dior occupies four floors. Tokyo, with 234 luxury stores, tops the list, followed by Seoul with 221, Paris with 165, Hong Kong with 148 and New York with 128. London, Shanghai, Beijing, Osaka and Taipei round out the top 10. Continue reading

SUITS OR NOT SUITS

We can safely say that casualwear has dominated our collective wardrobes for the last decade, and while some of it has become quite elevated when it comes to fabrics, the sartorial aesthetic remains the choice for special occasions for a number of reasons.

To begin with, tailored suits are created to flatter – the jacket shape narrows the waist and broadens the shoulders, creating a masculine silhouette, while elegant tapered trousers elongate the legs.

As a result of the influx of red carpet velvet jacket cameos, younger customers are investing in dinner jackets and velvet jackets.

The boring business suits that are worn like uniforms are dead, and as a result, their place as a signifier of corporateness is diminishing as men return to classical tailoring.

A young designer like Dgena marks DM’s updating of the men’s suit in 2019, she do who knows how to do the most difficult thing in the word making men’s suits.

LAUDER THE FAMILY BUSINESS

Leonard A. Lauder will step down from the board of directors of the Estée Lauder Cos. in November when his current term expires.

He will retain the title of chairman emeritus of the firm founded by his parents, Estée and Joseph Lauder, in 1946.

The Lauder family overall owns 35 percent of the company’s total common stock and about 84 percent of the outstanding voting power. Leonard Lauder remains a significant stockholder, and he has the right to designate two directors. William P. Lauder, his son, is executive chairman of the board and occupies one of those seats.

In November, his youngest son, the managing director of Silicon Valley-based venture capital firm Lauder Partners LLC, will run for the board’s second seat. How does one become a millionaire in business? It’s simple: you just have to start out as a billionaire.

PLASTIC BAMBINO IN THE SEA

Eight tons of plastic on the Côte d’Azur for a couturier always looking for buzz … This Monday, the designer proudly posted a video on his Instagram account to present his latest creation: an enormous inflatable bag, set up on the beach in Villefranche-sur-Mer.

The inflatable was modeled on the iconic bambino bag for Marseille bimbos. The aim: to promote the short-lived Jacquemus boutique that has set up shop on the Côte d’Azur.

Unfortunately, nobody talks about the ecological impact of such a campaign, and the polyphenols that escape every second into the sea, polluting the Mediterranean. It is estimated that over 8 billion tonnes of plastic waste have been produced since the 1950s. Marine biodiversity is the first victim of ocean plastic pollution.

To day, an estimated 100,000 turtles and marine mammals die every year from plastic pollution. What’s more, 90% of seabirds have plastic fragments in their stomachs. In all, 693 marine species are currently threatened by plastic pollution.

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RETURN TO BABYLON 2024

Here I am, back from a rather hectic holiday, and today I open my 1,280 emails… Given my advanced age, I discover all these spams sent to me for old-age insurance and incontinent diapers, in itself quite a program… I know that, from time to time for some, I have verbal diarrhea, but still!

So here I am, back in the limelight, in the luxury cottages, because in the houses, the mercato has already begun well before the vacations and the general managers have jumped like the jumping peas. We’re also witnessing the replacement of certain designers, who in fact create nothing, by others who will create no more. It’s the demand of luxury houses that have stayed in the marketing stratégy to sell 10,000-euro bags that you can find in China for 100 euros, and sometimes of better quality.

And then there’s the abundant readers’ mail, which fluctuates between 50% insults and 50% compliments, which makes for a pretty even balance. The day after tomorrow, I’ll probably give you a glimpse of a particularly nice letter to which I’ve replied in kind.

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KORS THE BODY OF MY ENEMY

As inflation bites its mass-market US shoppers and even aspirational consumers after a post-pandemic handbag spending spree, Michael Kors, which generates the largest chunk revenue, has experienced steeper revenue declines than some higher-end peers in recent quarters.

Nevertheless, Tapestry executives (American multinational luxury fashion holding) believe they can take a page from Coach and Kate Spade’s playbook.

In the past couple of quarters, those outlets have been weak for sales. Department stores generate around 10%  revenue, while wholesale accounts for about one-third of Capri’s sales holdings .

In order to showcase Michael Kors and appeal to more consumers, executives plan to increase their marketing investments.

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SKIMS KARDASHIAN

On Monday, Skims launched its new swim campaign featuring co-founder Kim Kardashian ( la Skims Kardashian). The most famous influencer on the planet, who always gets her jewelry stolen, introduces Skims’ Rubberized Scuba and Faux Leather swimwear collections on Skims.com and on Skims’ social media platforms, for a dive into the world of Nikki Beacher and other hooker theater.

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BALENCIAGA JEANNE ARCHIVES

It was hard to find virgin girls at the Balenciaga’s show, though the metal Jeanne d’Arc dress at the end of the collection caused quite a stir.

Stunning optical illusion, where jeans, tweed jackets and Haute Couture fur coats were displayed under the reproachful eyes of Peta association fighting against  “Furriiiiiire”, says the old Israelite by my side, botoxed like a MG and lifted like a French 75 Cannon.

Celebrities who were packed like sardines into golden chairs like the so smart Cardi B, Yseult and consorts, and a few stroll the catwalk, notably the French actress, Isabelle Huppert, with her big emotional eyes that she can’t close them anymore and who cries profusely for good reasons … And like the Black Eagle that the French singer Barbara wouldn’t deny,  wears a dress shining like stars, but not on Hollywood Boulevard walk of fame.

Bang & Olufsen portable speakers or “Bank” & Olufsen, like handbags, are among the best-selling items in Balenciaga boutiques. Music, Rap and Haute Couture were the new cocktail of the Fashion Week.

CHANEL PORT OF SHADOWS

A stroll along the quays of the Seine is a delight! The body relaxes, the mind escapes and the hum of the bateaux-mouches mingles with the rattle of the waves on the quayside. Lovers embrace and swear eternity, a promise that the night will surely swallow. But how to conceive a work of art in an inconceivable world? It seems insurmountable, and I’m sure that if you were to bake a banana cake at Le Meurice with Baron Hans Gunther Von Dincklage, the world wouldn’t be any worse off.

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