MARANT OPTIMISM EXUBERANCE

The Isabel Marant catwalk show was singled out for optimism and exuberance both for the dance performance and the clothing.

The fashion crowd knew it would be an unusual Paris Fashion Week, with much of the audience following presentations from screens at home often from different time zones and a cloud of uncertainty hanging over the small number of physical shows. With each day, tensions rose as coronavirus cases mounted in France, prompting stiffer travel rules and tightened security measures from local authorities.

In this environment, what emerged came as a display of resilience. Despite ongoing rumblings of frustration with being anchored at home, buyers expressed extra appreciation for efforts to get the show on the road with more successful endeavors carrying extra resonance.

With everyone out for a pick-me-up, bold expressions of optimism were appreciated. The Isabel Marant catwalk show shot past all others, in buyers’ minds, singled out for the vibrant and shimmery clothing as well as the dance performance from (LA)Horde.

“The energy was so fun and vibrant, in contrast to reality. The show was driven by a burning desire to go out and escape, which made you want to invest in every style that walked down the runway,”

VIRGIL ABLOH RAISES $1M

Virgil Abloh said on Thursday he has raised $1 million for a scholarship fund for Black fashion students.

The founder of luxury streetwear label Off-White and artistic director of men’s wear at Louis Vuitton has entered a long-term partnership with the Fashion Scholarship Fund to launch the Virgil Abloh “Post Modern” Scholarship Fund, which is endowed with a personal donation from the designer and matching funds from his partners Evian, Farfetch, Louis Vuitton and New Guards Group. The sum will provide scholarships to between 100 and 200 students of academic promise of Black, African American, or African descent.

“I was a student on a campus that was largely not as diverse as the world is. And it4s important to set up this foundation specifically for Black students who may feel like in the industry of fashion, they don4t see many people that they can identify with,” he added. Continue reading

DIOR A CATHEDRALE SAINT-HONORÉ

Interior garden, framed photos dotting the walls, vintage furniture and views of the Notre-Dame-de l’Assomption church. What a surprise a church facing Dior’s cathedral? Dior’s new five-story flagship at 261 Rue Saint-Honoré has the grandeur and intimacy of a Parisian apartment, But you can’t sleep there.

The boutique, which opened to the public on July 4, to please Donald Trump and after a dedicated day for VIP clients, is five times bigger than the store it replaces just down the street a major statement about the brand’s momentum, ambitions, and long-term view.

During a walk-through of the store on Thursday, Pietro Beccari, president and chief executive officer of Christian Dior Couture, drew a parallel to the founder. Continue reading

PUCCI SERIAL DESIGNER

Emilio Pucci is to invite guest creatives to interpret its rich heritage, starting with Christelle Kocher, a French designer whose ready-to-wear label Koché is well-known for vibrant patchworks, prints and streetwise savvy.

Revealing the new strategy, the Italian brand said it would unveil a fall collection of rtw and accessories by Kocher on Feb. 20 during Milan Fashion Week.

Controlled by LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton for the past 20 years, Emilio Pucci has experimented with a variety of permanent designers, including Julio Espada, Christian Lacroix, Matthew Williamson, Peter Dundas and MSGM’s Massimo Giorgetti. Since Giorgetti exited in 2017, an internal team has turned out collections as LVMH executives pondered the best way forward for the Florentine house.

Engaging serial collaborators rather than a full-time creative director is becoming a more common business model, pioneered by Ruffo Research in the late Nineties and adopted in recent years by larger brands such as Moncler and Tod’s.

Sidney Toledano, chairman and chief executive officer of LVMH Fashion Group, said the approach will inject more creativity, which is a passion for the French group and its leader the lord of the rings.

ELIE SAAB PARIS 2020

Continue reading