LANVIN OLIVIER STONING

Since the Chinese conglomerate, Fosun International, took over Lanvin, the French fashion house, they started by parting away with its creative director Olivier Lapidus and general manager Nicolas Druz. In the meantime, the women’s collections will be designed by an in-house team in the interim.

Joann Cheng, president of Fosun Fashion Group and chairman of the board of directors of Lanvin, has been appointed chief executive officer of the house for an interim period, effective immediately. Druz, who had led the brand since 2017, will take up the new position of managing director of Fosun Fashion Group, where he will support the group’s business expansion in Europe.

“Olivier steered the maison through a transitional period between ownerships,” said Cheng. “We thank him for that, and wish him every success for his own brand and future endeavors.” Continue reading

HERMES, FLY ME TO THE MOON

Hermès International confirmed its objectives for revenue growth in the medium term, despite growing economic, geopolitical and monetary uncertainties worldwide.

The manufacturer of Kelly bags and silk scarves said that net profits raised by 11% last year to 1.22 billion euros, up from 1.1 billion euros in 2016.

Hermès is in mutation. It becomes a cash machine for stakeholders. When shareholders starts being more important than clients, the products enclines to become low quality products.  However for Chinese clients it is not a big deal. Continue reading

KIM JONES REPLACES VAN ASSCHE

Kim Jones will present his first collection for Dior Homme in June as its new artistic director of ready-to-wear and accessory collections. The previously men’s artistic director at Louis Vuitton is succeeding Kris Van Assche and will start on April 1. We hope it is not an April fool.

The arrival of Jones represents the first big move by Pietro Beccari, who became chairman and chief executive officer at Christian Dior Couture six weeks ago after stints at Fendi and Vuitton. With his streetwear credibility, 345,000 Instagram followers and loads of famous friends, Jones will be sure to shake up Dior Homme.

“I am delighted to welcome Kim Jones, with whom I had the chance to collaborate previously at Louis Vuitton,” Beccari told . Continue reading

OFF SCORE KERING GROUP

French luxury group Kering has refuted a report of alleged tax evasion published by Mediapart, a French investigative and opinion newspaper, citing confidential documents.

It would seem that the Kering’s brand Gucci has been investigated by the Italian tax authorities that has revealed  that Kering had saved 2.5 billion euros in taxes. It should have paid in Italy and France by attributing wholesale revenues from brands including Gucci and Yves Saint Laurent to its LGI logistics center in Cadempino, Switzerland, thereby benefiting from a lower local tax rate. Kering said the Swiss company was established in the Nineties, prior to the group’s acquisition of Gucci Group, and now employs more than 600 people.

LGI is a strategic hub namely for the centralized distribution and logistics of Kering brands it said in a statement. Continue reading

BALMAIN FALL WINTER 2018-19 PARIS

Balmain Fall-Winter 2018-19 collection presented in Paris is a futuristic vision of feature from 90s. Models in sci-fi uniforms in neon-spectrum plissé and holographic paillettes look like girls from Andy Warhol Vinyl Factory or planet of Glamoria. Sparkly and shiny steampunk collection of Balmain has a moto : “We are the new generation”, as read on a T-shirt. There are also some disco inspired pieces, and pieces related to pollution of planet and plastic bags. Continue reading

LANCEL LEAVES RICHEMONT

The Italian accessories brand Piquadro has entered into negotiation to buy the French label “Lancel” which is part of the Swiss luxury Richemont group, parent company of Cartier, Dunhill and Van Cleef & Arpels. Piquadro is an Italian leather goods company specialized in travel and business goods. The company offers products ranging from professional bags for men and women to luggage and small leather goods. In April 2010, it distributed its products in around 1,500 retail outlets. Piquadro holds a large number of patents in recognition of its technical innovations.

Piquadro listed on the Milan Stock Exchange has confirmed talks and that an agreement could be reached by the middle of the year. The sale of Lancel would follow the sale of Shanghai Tang by Richemont last year to an Italian investor. Richemont is currently planning to buy 100% of Yoox Net-a-Porter Group shares as part of an agreement expected later this year. Continue reading

DIOR ICI MODE

It could seem that one of the key achievement of Dior’s revolution would be a more unified brand with men’s and women’s, Christian Dior Couture and Perfume could be fully integrated under the creative director, Maria Chiuri or others.

Although Maria Grazia Chiuri has been going through criticism, sales ar growing since she joined in 2016. She has brought an activism-tinged, millennial-friendly approach to Dior. Top-selling products are the classic Lady Dior bag, but also new cult accessories designed by Chiuri, including her logo-ribboned slingback heels and metal logo bags.

However, Maria Chiuri remains in a string of name that have taken over since the abrupt departure of John Galliano, who first made Dior a mega-brand during his time as artistic director from 1996 to 2011. And Dior has not recovered its DNA Continue reading

VUITTON IN THE LOUVRE

Vuitton in the Louvre make sence ! Nicolas Ghesquière attended at the Chloe show, next to Wintour ! Maybe Nicolas will leave to the Richmont group who knows ? For this collection Women were at the core of his fall display, which explored quintessentially French notions of elegance. The cropped jacket on a gray buttonless skirt suit was trimmed with spiky metal medallions and chains fine strands sprouting from its embroidered collar, or thick links decorating faux pockets.

Trouser suits and cocktail dresses were paired with graphic waist trainers, the corset-like belts made popular by Kim Kardashian, though their impact was diluted by attaching them to draped halter-neck tops that drooped lower over one breast. Continue reading

RICCARDO TISCI AND BURBERRY

Tisci will replace Christopher Bailey, graduate of Central Saint Martins in London, will direct all Burberry collections and present his first for the brand in September. When Bailey stepped down in October, he said February was to be his last collection, with an in-house team likely working on the September outing.

Tisci will be based at Burberry’s headquarters in London. A women’s wear, men’s wear, leather goods and accessories designer, Tisci spent more than a decade at Givenchy.

While Tisci’s arrival at Burberry marks a new beginning, it also signals the end of a dramatic narrative for the designer: Rumors were circulating last year that Tisci was to join Versace, but the much talked-about deal never materialized. Continue reading

DOLCE FASHION DRONES

Over the past few seasons, the brand  has made the court  to the always-connected generation,.

During the show, Dolce & Gabbana spent then the first half an hour trying to convince its guests to log off the WiFi. Finally, everyone did and then it all became apparent as drones flew out handbags down the catwalk.

And that was just the beginning of a collection that was packed full of fashion gimmicks. The set was made out like a church, appropriate for a Sunday in Italy, reading “Fashion Devotion” of course, fashion as religion.

So out came “Fashion Sinner” slogans on T-shirts, which had leanings more towards the fashion satire of Moschino. There were ornate mirror bags and those that looked like a theatre stage; handbag headbands; wings on the back of the bombers – standard angel garb one imagines up in heaven; and there was a giant zebra coat and hat ensemble. Really? Yes. Continue reading

BAILEY FINAL REVERENCE

Goodbye Burberry – On Saturday night guests entered the west London venue to the chants and screeches of fur protesters  who came out in even larger numbers than last season  and entered a vast and largely vacant brick venue where the designer’s guests and friends were gathering to watch his last show for the brand.

The collection was meant to be a support to the LGBT community.

“I’m proud and sad ” said Sienna Miller, who starred in Burberry’s 2016 Christmas campaign, a short film that also featured Dominic West. “All the Burberry girls had to be here tonight.” They came out in force: Naomi Campbell, Kate Moss, Keira Knightley and Naomi Watts joined Michelle Dockery, Naomie Harris, Lily James and Daphne Guinness.

Chelsea Clinton, who is best friends with Bailey’s husband Simon Woods, sat in the friends and family section. “It was Simon who brought Christopher into our lives and we’re so thankful for that. There was nowhere else we wanted to be tonight” said Clinton, who was accompanied her husband Marc Mezvinsky.

FOSUM AND LANVIN JUST MARRIED

Chinese conglomerate Fosun International has beat Qatari’s rival Mayhoola Group to win control over the French fashion house Lanvin. The sale agreement leaves Taiwanese media magnate Shaw-Lan Wang, who previously held 75% stake, on board as a minority shareholder with 20%. Swiss businessman Ralph Bartel is apparently holding 25% share in  the house’s capital.

Lanvin which was facing a liquidity crises was under pressure to find an investor by the end of the month. Fosun has pledged to bring 100 million euros to the table, although they cautioned that this would only provide temporary relief, given Lanvin’s deepening losses.

The oldest French fashion house, still in activity, has seen its sales erode since a peak of 235 million euros in 2012. In 2016 revenues fell 23 percent to 162 million euros, with a net loss of 18.3 million euros, marking its first red ink in nearly a decade. Continue reading