On 30-31 January was held the 21st edition of the Barcelona fashion week which was visited by more than 32,000 people, including buyers, media representatives and a wider public, representing an increase of 5.7% compared with the previous Summer edition. Continue reading
Category Archives: pfw
AF VANDEVORST PARIS 2008
VIKTOR AND ROLF COUTURE PARIS 2018
KARL 30 YEARS AT CHANEL’S
“Karl Lagerfeld is almost as synonymous with Chanel as Coco Chanel herself today, but there was a time when the actual legendary designer was nervously working on his first Chanel collection, Couture for fall 1983. This being the notoriously work-centric Lagerfeld, he was toiling simultaneously for Chloé and Fendi and a “myriad of other clients.”
Not much has changed on that front as the infamously productive designer still heads up multiple houses, including Fendi and his namesake line, but when he first joined Chanel, only part time initially, he wasn’t welcomed with particularly open arms.
Lagerfeld made it through any tensions and overcame his frustrations with the slow production pace of couture and yanked Chanel into the Eighties with his first designs pulling inspiration from the Twenties and Thirties, while decidedly ignoring Chanel’s “comeback” era of the Fifties. But this was a risk, as was Lagerfeld’s decision to move away from the pastels and boxy suits the house had become more-or-less known for. Continue reading
CHRISTOPHE JOSSE COUTURE
FRANCK SORBIER PARIS 2018
When the show started, I immediately thought : “Live as a man, but remain a woman”. Right in the trend, the poet of fashion, Franck Sorbier is listening to our time, and it is precisely what the Haute Couture should be.
In 1920, women discovered not only the power of seduction but also their own body. As Isadora Duncan, famous dancer in the 1920’s, developed a style of free and natural movements or as the “Garçonnes” that Madame Chanel dressed to slum it, the designer has re-established the balance in delivering an undisputed collection inspired by “Les Années Folles”. Franck Sorbier always listens and catches the magic breath of this world.
On a music played by Manu Dibango, the dancers of the Paris Opera, wearing dressed inspired by the “Années Folles” flited from one room to the other one to present the collection. The Sorbier Haute Couture show is always one of the most expected moment of the Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week. You feel like a cocoon far away from Fashion industry and closed to the soul of fashion. Continue reading
ON AURA TOUT VU BEST SHOW 2018
This is at this time with dior the best show Paris Fashion Week 2018. Breaks introduced by the Haute Couture over the years to give their own interpretation codes. Diverting fashion and glamor. The designers Livia Stoianova and Yassen Samouilov stand out for several years for their extravagant and original creations, far from conventional classic haute couture fashion.
The stars are crazy for their creations. The success of designers is immediate and unparalleled. Always on hand with their own unique and singular way of creativity.
Today, brand, presents each season during the Haute Couture Paris Fashion Week but is also invested in other areas such as ready-to-wear, accessories, design objects, decor, makeup, perfumes as well as costumes and scenography for ballet performances and music. At this time the best show in paris 2018. Continue reading
CELINE AND EASY SLIMANE
One of fashion’s preeminent image-makers and trendsetters, Hedi Slimane is to lead Céline into men’s wear, couture and fragrance as its new artistic, he is to join the LVMH brand on Feb. 1 and unveil his first fashion proposition for men and women next September during Paris Fashion Week.
It marks a major homecoming for Slimane, who cemented his reputation and influenced men’s tailoring for more than a decade as the designer of Dior Homme between 2000 and 2007. He went on to reinvent and ignite the Kering-owned house of Yves Saint Laurent, which he rechristened Saint Laurent, betweenr
2012 and 2016 all the while maintaining a close rapport with the Arnault family, which controls LVMH and Dior
In a curious twist of fate, Slimane will be reunited with Sidney Toledano, the legendary chief executive officer of Dior, who recruited the designer to propel the storied couture house into men’s fashion. Continue reading
MARGIELA PARIS 2018
The designer John Galliano added his dose of cinematic fantasy plastic overlayers and matching aviators figured among the styling tricks to the Maison Margiela men’s wardrobe. Introducing Artisanal pieces to the line, he put his own stamp on the relaxed suit, reinterpreted in a bias cut.
Skeletal structure in fur on an oversized yellow bomber, giving a harness effect. Shadows crept across a flocked navy bomber, while an orange rubber cardigan in an Aran knit motif that quivered down the runway was pure showpiece.
The collection also had its fair share of commercial pieces, like the sharply cut plain beige suit worn with patent leather cowboy boots, which was supercool, and a slim red nylon sports jacket tucked into pants like a shirt. Continue reading
LOUIS VUITTON MENSWEAR PARIS
VALENTINO MENSWEAR PARIS 2018
MARIO AND WINTOUR DIVORCE
Face to allegations of sexual exploitation and harassment, Fashion brands and magazine titles quickly decided to stop working with famed photographers Mario Testino and Bruce Weber.
During the men’s fashion show in Milan, speculation raged over other well-known photographers who might be caught up in the scandal. Sexual exploitation and harassment has long been known to take place during fashion shoots for the last several decades, but unfortunately both brands and magazine editors have generally turned a blind eye to it.
Both Testino and Weber made their careers and fortunes on shooting ad campaigns. Last Saturday, both Michael Kors and Stuart Weitzman said they would no longer be working with Testino on future advertising campaigns. Continue reading
ALIBABA AND THE 40 CHINESES
Xinhua, CEO of Chinese giant Alibaba, will soon sign an agreement with Paris to install a logistics center in France and to increase the sale of French products on its trading platforms online.
“We are planning to open a logistics center in France, we are currently looking for a site and partners,” said the founder of the Chinese number one of the e-commerce, on the sidelines of the meeting between French and Chinese presidents, Emmanuel Macron and Xi Jinping, at the People’s Palace in Beijing.
Jack Ma met Emmanuel Macron last Tuesday morning with also Richard Liu, boss of JD.com, number two of the Chinese e-commerce, which also announced to want to set up in France and promised to sell for 2 billion euros of French products on its platforms within two years. Continue reading
TOURNE DE TRANSMISSION LONDON
Graeme Gaughan, Tourne de Transmission’s creative director, returned to foreign cultures for fall 2018, the inspiration material that fueled his rise on the men’s wear scene. “I got a bit distracted in the last few seasons, this season it was images in photographer Lee Gordon’s book, “Kanaval: Vodou, Politics and Revolution on the Streets of Haiti,” that galvanized his return to form.
Jacmel’s Carnival celebrations are famous across Haiti, and every year thousands of partygoers descend on the city to take part in this fantastic spectacle. Jacmel turns into one giant street theater for the event: it’s a world away from the sequins and sparkle of Carnival in Rio de Janeiro.
Gordon’s images of the carnival in Jacmel, Haiti, in the Nineties depict men smeared in paint or mud wearing dresses, and children in ill-fitting suits gathered to reenact a grisly story from their history. Continue reading
FASHION CAMPAIGNS 2018
Spring 2018 Ad Campaigns: Calvin Klein Jeans, Kaia Gerber, 16 and Presley Gerber, 18, children of Cindy Crawford and Rande Gerber.
Spring 2018 Ad Campaigns: Dior, Dior’s spring campaign features Sasha Pivovarova, the model and artist who opened Maria Grazia Chiuri’s Spring runway show wearing a T-shirt printed with the title of Linda Nochlin’s essay, “Why Have There Been No Great Women Artists?” Continue reading
EMILIO PUCCI PRE 2018
A LAST MINUTE NEW YEAR’S
Years Eve might only be four days away, but you’d be forgiven for having not yet planned what you’re going to wear due to a whirlwind of office Christmas parties, present giving and mince pie eating. Continue reading
BETTY TRAN IN PARIS
GUCCI PLACES TO BE
Gucci reinvents “Instagram”. Earlier this year Gucci has launched an application called “Gucci Places” using geolocation services on user’s phones that sends them a push notification when they are near a Gucci shop. Once in the place, the user can earn corresponding badges and share them on social media.
The aim is to invite aficionados to discover unexpected stories about these places, and to form a community. The first Gucci Place was the Chatsworth in Derbyshire, England, where Gucci was supporting an exhibition of clothing and memorabilia baptized “House Style”, as well as where it realized its Cruise 2017 advertising campaign.
The latest Gucci places to discover include: The Angelica Library, in Rome, Italy; the Castello Sonnino, in Montespertoli, Italy; The Assouline House, in London, England; the Los Angeles County Museum of Art (LACMA), in Los Angeles, California; Bibo restaurant, in Hong Kong; and the Waltz store in Nakameguro, Tokyo, Japan. Continue reading