ROKH GOES FASHION

After a collaboration with H&M, Rokh Hwang unveiled recycled “ribbons” of cotton and linen, taking months to shred them into fine threads and rearranging them into floral clusters on the body, like French designer Dgena and the jacket he made for rapper Yamê.

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GUCCI MERCATO

At the end of December, Valérie Leberichel joined Gucci as SVP global communications, reporting directly to Cantino. Daughter of the most famous florist in Dinan, Valérie Leberichel began her career as head of public relations at Jean Louis Scherrer before becoming communications director at Issey Miyake Europe. In 2002, she joined Celine as communications director. All that remained for Pinault was to take on the general director of the Franco-British Chamber of Commerce, Catherine Leyaouanc, to stock up on Breton women from his region for his house, but as is well known, Bretons work with their compatriots.

Leberichel will “develop a strategic vision for brand positioning and create a comprehensive marketing and communications strategy designed to enhance brand awareness, strengthen emotional connections with audiences across all channels, and drive product demand.”

With Alessio Vannetti’s departure last week, Leberichel will assume Vannetti’s role as executive vice president and chief brand officer. In September last year, Vannetti returned to Gucci, replacing Susan Chokachi, who left after 25 years. Vannetti was previously Gucci’s worldwide communications director from 2015 to 2019, then spent 3.5 years at Valentino as its chief brand officer. Gucci’s chief people officer, Luca Bozzo, is also leaving.

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MARINA FOR A BAG SAAB

Elie Saab is strengthening its handbag division and has appointed Marina Raphael as its new artistic and design director.

The Greek-Austrian designer, who is part of the sixth generation of the Swarovski family, will remain artistic director of her eponymous brand, which she founded in 2017. A daughter of a family, the little girl has relied on her family to shore up her handbag business. Now she will have to prove herself.

“I have long admired Mr. Saab’s remarkable vision, his exceptional craftsmanship and the meticulous attention he pays to each creation. Our first discussions about expanding the handbag category began last year, and in February in Paris, I was honored when Elie Jr. offered me this extraordinary opportunity,” said Raphael, who is based in Athens, where her brand is headquartered.

THE LUXURY WAR IS RELOADED

The acquisition of Paris FC will mark the Arnault clan’s latest expansion into sports, following luxury conglomerate LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton’s sponsorship of the Paris Olympics and its 10-year partnership with the Formula One championship.

French sports daily L’Equipe revealed late Wednesday that Antoine Arnault, the group’s director of communications, image and environment and a keen football fan, had engineered the deal with his brother Frédéric Arnault, CEO of LVMH Watches and managing director of Agache. LVMH declined to comment.

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KIM JONES QUIT FENDI

After four years of Fendi’s turbulent collaboration with the Roman house, Kim Jones is leaving Fendi. The British designer, whose position at Fendi was artistic director of women’s haute couture, ready-to-wear and fur collections, will continue in his role as artistic director of men’s collections at Dior in Paris.

Fendi’s parent company, LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, announced Jones’ departure in a brief statement Friday.

Kim Jones has made significant contributions to the brand’s creative legacy, seamlessly integrating his modern, cross-cultural aesthetic with Fendi’s historic heritage, according to the joint statement.

Under his leadership, the house has reinvented its ready-to-wear and couture collections, offering an inclusive and innovative approach to fashion that constantly renews Fendi’s Italian codes. Throughout his four years, Jones’ work has been driven entirely by passion and creativity. In short, the usual luxury house story, blah blah…

THE VÉNUS BY MISHMASH RICCI

After the doves of Lalique, and the horrible series “Les Belles de Nina”, a sort of crowned multicoloured turd; here is a new femininity, which emerges from the Spanish, inspired by mythology, echoing the heritage of the house! Inventing a contemporary goddess of today, but this one will certainly be a bimbo wandering the lobbys of the hotels of the capital, “it’s the spirit of the times”. A fragrance where the Magnolia shines like a real jewel, and for the story…, magnolias appeared before beetles, and of course, Baroness Wildenstein, because fossilized specimens have been found and date back 20 million years before her first unsightly operation. A perfume bottle, like a fan-shaped jewel in the art deco style, a real innovation! It is a copy of a 1960 bottle from Tiffany & Co.; Sterling silver perfume bottle with scalloped sea shell below.

Venus, the goddess of love and seduction, the feminine beauty of Roman mythology, imported to the homeland of Antoni Gaudí who might smell not of mussels, but of clams.

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Y PROJECT CHAPTER 11

Y/Project, following the death of its co-founder Gilles Elalouf in June and the departure of its artistic director Glenn Martens last month, was placed in receivership by the Paris Commercial Court on September 26, according to legal documents.

Potential buyers have until October 16 to submit an offer for the company, which has 24 employees and generated revenue of just under €11 million in 2023, according to a press release published by the receivership firm 2M & Associés.

But without a creator, there is little chance that a buyer will take part in this adventure.

The Los Alamos Laboratory, also known as Project Y, was a secret laboratory created by the Manhattan Project and operated by the University of California during World War II. But let’s not talk about that, but about fashion designers

Y/Project was initially launched as a collaborative project between designer Yohan Serfaty and businessman Gilles Elalouf in 2010. Sadly, Serfaty passed away from cancer in 2013, leaving the brand without an artistic director. After Serfaty’s passing, Elalouf turned to Glenn Martens to lead the brand.

HEARST PARIS 2025

Gabriela Hearst brought the American spirit to Paris’s Left Bank on Monday afternoon, presenting her spring 2025 collection at Karl Lagerfeld’s former home to an audience that included Lily Gladstone, with live music by Wesley Schultz of Colorado folk rock band The Lumineers.

The Uruguayan-American designer served canapés and champagne on the verdant lawn. Inspired by female artistic heroines (you have to find inspiration somewhere)! The ultimate irony for a journalist is to be “on the verge” of death, but I’m still forcing myself to write a few pages about Saint Hearst’s muse who is carrying an estimable corpse: her former collections for Chloé.

Gabriela acts on me like a remedy for love and even with viagra, reason and logic always take over for me. At the word “Hearst”, nothing hardens, the nothingness more staggering than sidereal. This hippie nostalgic for the 70s, the wealthiest of seamstresses, is the bluff on the self, egocentric by her miserable vision that pushes you to a ridiculous dive into the sewing of ready-to-paste and who, to the extreme, to come to Paris for a “show of rags” for the story of a eunuch without head or tail, but do not say: “A man without equal.” Say: “A eunuch.”

ELIE SAAB 2025

Charm, elegance, grace with an apparent sweetness, for a sensitivity sweet as the honey of Lebanon, in a clever mix, it emanates in the room these princess dresses of which the couturier leaves his mark and is part of the lineage of the greatest creators by leaving to fashion an immense heritage of finesse. Continue reading

YSL THE LABYRINTH OF LUXURY

It was in the center of the Champs de Mars, where there are usually the street vendors of the Eiffel Tower cleared by the police for the occasion. The way Vaccarello stigmatized this change of location or better, is to return to the style of the founder of the house. Instinctively intelligent collection, for a dive into the brain of the master of Oran. Despite all the challenges that the luxury industry faces, the Kering group has just understood that, besides communication, the most important thing is to sell in stores.

While it was becoming increasingly difficult to identify the singularity of writing among all French designers, here is the blandness of the “good” but especially of the “safe” for a perspective of a winning ticket that slides gently on the 70s and the 54 club. Life is like fashion, an eternal recommencement! It is certainly safe to say that Vaccarello has found the door to Yves Saint-Laurent or the archives, depending on your point of view. Sometimes, when creation lets you down, it is better to dig into others, but not being able to go back is a form of progression in essence.
FM

DIOR AMAZON PRIME

Diana is the goddess of hunting, war and the night in Roman mythology, assimilated to “Artemis” in Greek mythology. Artemis, well, funny, isn’t it! Daughter of Jupiter and twin sister of Apollo, she wishes to remain a virgin forever, and when beauty makes its bed, sublime, always alone, she builds her reputation alongside men, but strangely apart too.

The one who invents, unlike the one who discovers, adds to things, and Maria Chiuri, for once, adds a touch of femininity without inventing anything. Amazon huntress to hit the nail on the head, but with the lord, it’s in the thousand billion “bollards”.

Damier Vuitton at Dior for brand synergy and a play of black and white light without the little Pharrells, but also very expensive “flesh”, and as a wink, a little Breton sailor’s shirt to infuriate the prince of Venice. With a Dijon “biker” jacket on her hips, the woman wants to be both masculine and feminine. So here I am on a journey towards my fiery thoughts in the black gravel of the thrill. Beyond the words through which I saw legs walking that stretched out to Dante’s Peak, and how far I pushed into the depths of a dream to write these words. Continue reading

GUCCI 2025

KNWLS LONDON 2025

Grunge and sexy that pays homage to fashion apparently! Since it is agreed that the eyes are the mirror of the soul, why not admit that the mouth is also the interpreter of the heart, but that is another story…

FENDI ART DES JONES

Art Deco is making a comeback, and next summer, the Paul Poiret retrospective, the turn of the century for the free woman and today’s vision of the world. André Breton’s surrealism is not far away. The abundant Art Nouveau, cut down by the war, is giving way to the precious purities of Art Deco.

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THE LUXURY DEPRESSION

As organic sales momentum slows even more than initially expected and visibility on a potential rebound in luxury sales in China is really low, the French group is increasing its prices.

Over the summer, luxury consumption remained strong only in Japan, driven by Chinese tourism, while the Chinese cluster slowed down, the US cluster did not improve as much as expected and Europe delivered a mixed picture.

On the continent, many consumers have adopted a wait-and-see attitude, victims of “greedflation” and price increases by many brands after COVID-19 “simply because they could get away with it rather than simply because they were a reflection of inflationary pressures. Is there a glimmer of hope at the end of the tunnel for the luxury sector?

NEW YORK FASHION WEEK

Manhattan was the big attraction of New York Fashion Week for Spring 2025. The city itself has established itself as one of the world’s leading fashion hubs, much like the Paris Olympics. Designers of all nationalities and backgrounds have chosen iconic locations to stage their shows, placing the city at the very heart of the season’s collections.
The Big Apple was the big attraction of New York Fashion Week for Spring 2025, with 200 shows in the Big Apple, it remains, along with Milan, the Best Fashion Weeks on the planet.

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KORS A CLASSIC BAG DRESS

“It’s a rustic opulence,” Kors said during a preview of his spring 2025 collection, summing up a seasonal trend as only he can. The designer’s mood board featured shots of romantic Mediterranean beaches.

So there were winning classics with artisanal, Italian-made extras, like a dark denim circle skirt hand-embroidered with denim flower petals, a statement beige “lace” pencil skirt crafted from leather sequins, and a black double-face cashmere T-shirt and skirt set studded with raffia pinwheels that rustled as they moved. Calais lace is back on the runways, and so is glamour, finally!

The designer better known for his bags than his dresses is making waves in New Yorkand, admittedly, this is Manhattan. Dresses that could have come straight out of the Netflix series Mad Men.

CAMPBELL AGAINST WINTOUR

Instead of starting late like awards shows usually do, the Harlem Fashion Row Show and Style Awards got off to a brisk start Tuesday night at Grant’s Tomb, and it didn’t matter if Wintour was there or not!

Harlem Fashion Row founder Brandice Daniel encouraged the hundreds of attendees to support Black designers by dedicating at least 10 percent of their clothing and home decor purchases to their designs “to create change in the industry.” She also noted that Black consumers’ purchasing power for clothing and footwear is expected to reach $70 billion by 2030, making it easier to see LVMH’s risk-taking with Pharelle Williams. Continue reading

MILLION GOLD A REAL GOLD MINE

it’s out after 5 years of hard work from Rabanne teams and Puig teams Million Gold fronted by the divine Gigi Hadid, to the hypnotic sound of Beyoncé Pure/Honey.

or the top notes, the sparkling rose sees its green facet and its shine nuanced by lavender and a luminous pear accord. To anchor the perfume, finally, a mineral musk, accompanied by moss and vanilla. Million Gold for Her evokes the ecstatic energy that intoxicates you with gold. A perfume mixing a bouquet of intensely feminine white flowers, a sparkling rose and an addictive mineral musk.

After millions in all sauces, here comes gold, for the Puig group a real gold mine.