CHINA NIBBLING THE FRENCH LUXURY

Suggesting investor appetite remains strong for unique luxury properties, Chinese fashion conglomerate Youngor Group has acquired 100 percent of French childrenswear brand Bonpoint from private investment firm EPI.
It is understood Bonpoint attracted several unsolicited offers, and Youngor outmaneuvered other potential suitors by touting its retail, Shein is suppose to be sad.

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SWAROVSKI YEARS OF JOY

In honor of the Year of the Snake, Swarovski has revealed its latest Lunar New Year collection, “130 Years of Joy,” marking the brand’s 130th anniversary celebrations. A variety of symbolic designs highlight Swarovski’s craftsmanship and creativity in this collection, which combines tradition with modernity.

At the heart of the collection is the Swarovski Swan. For this milestone year, the swan is reimagined in a new design that combines it with its mirror image, their necks intertwined.In pieces such as a gold-tone pendant featuring one gold-tone and one rhodium-plated swan, both adorned with shimmering Swarovski Zirconia pavé, this design is demonstrated.

I am writing this article because when I went to the store with my friend’s ring to buy her a new one, seeing that the one I had brought was slightly damaged she exchanged it for a new one.

TAISNE RIOCOUR AT THE TOP OF THE SUBLIME

This is a sparkling journey in the heart of the Côte des Bars, a day through the enchantment of the setting sun on the vineyards. There is the pleasure palace with its voluptuousness of the superfluous and the fantasy, taking us to the heart of the medieval and finishing on the hill of the Biodynamic.

In France, there are sometime chapels which, without noise, export the image of these in all their greatness, like a kind of abstract goddess escaping from a bottle after a light explosion, like Bacchus and the lord of the wine. So here is Les Riceys in the Côte des Bars with its 866 hectares of vineyards, and a commune that has the largest wine-growing area in the whole of Champagne.

Like Helios, Pierre welcomes us with his brotherhood, watching over the pleasure of the others. Coco Chanel said about champagne: “I only drink champagne on two occasions. When I am in love and when I am not. Here, the family produces nectar that helps to amaze the taste buds, but above all, they are passionate. The land of Ricey goes from the mystical to the divine with Pierre, it’s amazing, but also overwhelming. A historian’s concept, you may ask? No, I was thinking more of a network of links that governs a family for a set of poles that found the slopes of the heart of others.

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BETWEEN TRADITION AND MODERNITY

As everyone knows, I often visit young designers, and when I saw a jacket with a fabric that looked more like a Napoleonic Guard ceremonial set, I pointed this out to the designer: ‘I like this bomber with these fabrics from the 18ᵉ century to the 19ᵉ because it gives the buyer something to think about. Indeed, it is always reassuring to think that, in a garment, there is a bit of history from the past.’ The designer looked at me with an interested expression, because in fact she hadn’t thought about it, she’d done it instinctively, as artists often have this instinctive vision of the world of the future. It is no doubt commonplace to observe that modernity gives tradition a bye, and to say that the modern is the era of the new or of renewal; it is a little less so to explore this assertion in greater depth and to grasp the twofold gesture that constitutes its substance.

The new of modernity to dismiss the old, for a gesture of rupture, a caesura without appeal. But in the same way that Lord Arnault said to Steve Jobs: ‘You have the technology of the moment, while I am selling the heritage of France’. Modernity begins when it reflects on its separation from the previous world and culture. The thread of tradition is broken, and supposedly cannot be renewed, but as the sentimental man that I am knows, we always need a bit of the past to appreciate the future, or to hate it. Continue reading

A WOMAN AT THE HEAD OF FASHION

Finally a woman at the head of fashion (A hidden message for French organisations.). The British Fashion Council has appointed Laura Weir as its new chief executive, succeeding Caroline Rush. Ms Weir, currently executive creative director at Selfridges, will take up the role on 28 April.

Laura said she would work with designers, industry partners and government bodies to advance the organisation’s mission to champion British fashion through programmes that support creative talent.

NO 21 PRE-FALL 2025


Alessandro Dell’Acqua continued to explore bourgeois codes in a collection that wasn’t short on embellishments but with an anarchic undertone from Jurassic. Rebellion can come in many guises, including wrapped in candy hues and cascades of glitzy sequins.

A NICHE MARKET

A woman flew from Australia to meet master perfumer in the South of France. A lover of fragrance, she wanted a made-to-measure perfume. But more than having it just for herself, the client hoped the scent would ultimately be passed down to her granddaughters, to stir up memories of her. A small selection of perfumers are offering bespoke services to people from the world over. Just don’t ask who the clients are Confidentiality the rich aren’t secretive, they’re discreet.

Prices are from 45,000 euros and go up to 100,000 euros-plus. Among major cost contributors are the olfactive ingredients used. Yet still there are often waiting lists for those women and men wanting their own fragrance, since perfumers generally can only accommodate a handful of clients annually. In 1853, Eau de Cologne Impériale was created as a special order for the Empress Eugénie for her marriage to Napoleon III by Pierre François Pascal Guerlain, founder of the perfume house.

In 1933, his grandson Jacques Guerlain developed Sous le Vent for Josephine Baker and six years later conceived Coque d’Or for Sergei Diaghilev, founder of the Ballets Russes to name a few of the made-to-measure creations. A niche market; let’s hope it’s not a doghouse.

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BACCARAT WHY NOT !

The 260-year-old Maison Baccarat is embarking on a strategic shift with the appointment of Laurence Nicolas as its next CEO.

A former executive at #Dior, where she led the watchmaking and fine jewelry division for 17 years, Nicolas has since consolidated her expertise in strategic roles at Sotheby’s and Printemps Haussmann.

Already familiar with #Baccarat through her seat on the Board of Directors since 2018, she succeeds Margareth (Maggie) Henriquez PhD, whose tenure was marked by ambitious modernization initiatives.

This transition comes as Baccarat seeks to strengthen its international presence and capture new audiences in a constantly evolving luxury market. It’s always interesting to watch someone who has arrived in a profession they don’t know and to see if coming from Dior they can manage a crystal factory!

ROKH GOES FASHION

After a collaboration with H&M, Rokh Hwang unveiled recycled “ribbons” of cotton and linen, taking months to shred them into fine threads and rearranging them into floral clusters on the body, like French designer Dgena and the jacket he made for rapper Yamê.

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GUCCI MERCATO

At the end of December, Valérie Leberichel joined Gucci as SVP global communications, reporting directly to Cantino. Daughter of the most famous florist in Dinan, Valérie Leberichel began her career as head of public relations at Jean Louis Scherrer before becoming communications director at Issey Miyake Europe. In 2002, she joined Celine as communications director. All that remained for Pinault was to take on the general director of the Franco-British Chamber of Commerce, Catherine Leyaouanc, to stock up on Breton women from his region for his house, but as is well known, Bretons work with their compatriots.

Leberichel will “develop a strategic vision for brand positioning and create a comprehensive marketing and communications strategy designed to enhance brand awareness, strengthen emotional connections with audiences across all channels, and drive product demand.”

With Alessio Vannetti’s departure last week, Leberichel will assume Vannetti’s role as executive vice president and chief brand officer. In September last year, Vannetti returned to Gucci, replacing Susan Chokachi, who left after 25 years. Vannetti was previously Gucci’s worldwide communications director from 2015 to 2019, then spent 3.5 years at Valentino as its chief brand officer. Gucci’s chief people officer, Luca Bozzo, is also leaving.

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MARINA FOR A BAG SAAB

Elie Saab is strengthening its handbag division and has appointed Marina Raphael as its new artistic and design director.

The Greek-Austrian designer, who is part of the sixth generation of the Swarovski family, will remain artistic director of her eponymous brand, which she founded in 2017. A daughter of a family, the little girl has relied on her family to shore up her handbag business. Now she will have to prove herself.

“I have long admired Mr. Saab’s remarkable vision, his exceptional craftsmanship and the meticulous attention he pays to each creation. Our first discussions about expanding the handbag category began last year, and in February in Paris, I was honored when Elie Jr. offered me this extraordinary opportunity,” said Raphael, who is based in Athens, where her brand is headquartered.

THE LUXURY WAR IS RELOADED

The acquisition of Paris FC will mark the Arnault clan’s latest expansion into sports, following luxury conglomerate LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton’s sponsorship of the Paris Olympics and its 10-year partnership with the Formula One championship.

French sports daily L’Equipe revealed late Wednesday that Antoine Arnault, the group’s director of communications, image and environment and a keen football fan, had engineered the deal with his brother Frédéric Arnault, CEO of LVMH Watches and managing director of Agache. LVMH declined to comment.

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KIM JONES QUIT FENDI

After four years of Fendi’s turbulent collaboration with the Roman house, Kim Jones is leaving Fendi. The British designer, whose position at Fendi was artistic director of women’s haute couture, ready-to-wear and fur collections, will continue in his role as artistic director of men’s collections at Dior in Paris.

Fendi’s parent company, LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, announced Jones’ departure in a brief statement Friday.

Kim Jones has made significant contributions to the brand’s creative legacy, seamlessly integrating his modern, cross-cultural aesthetic with Fendi’s historic heritage, according to the joint statement.

Under his leadership, the house has reinvented its ready-to-wear and couture collections, offering an inclusive and innovative approach to fashion that constantly renews Fendi’s Italian codes. Throughout his four years, Jones’ work has been driven entirely by passion and creativity. In short, the usual luxury house story, blah blah…

THE VÉNUS BY MISHMASH RICCI

After the doves of Lalique, and the horrible series “Les Belles de Nina”, a sort of crowned multicoloured turd; here is a new femininity, which emerges from the Spanish, inspired by mythology, echoing the heritage of the house! Inventing a contemporary goddess of today, but this one will certainly be a bimbo wandering the lobbys of the hotels of the capital, “it’s the spirit of the times”. A fragrance where the Magnolia shines like a real jewel, and for the story…, magnolias appeared before beetles, and of course, Baroness Wildenstein, because fossilized specimens have been found and date back 20 million years before her first unsightly operation. A perfume bottle, like a fan-shaped jewel in the art deco style, a real innovation! It is a copy of a 1960 bottle from Tiffany & Co.; Sterling silver perfume bottle with scalloped sea shell below.

Venus, the goddess of love and seduction, the feminine beauty of Roman mythology, imported to the homeland of Antoni Gaudí who might smell not of mussels, but of clams.

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Y PROJECT CHAPTER 11

Y/Project, following the death of its co-founder Gilles Elalouf in June and the departure of its artistic director Glenn Martens last month, was placed in receivership by the Paris Commercial Court on September 26, according to legal documents.

Potential buyers have until October 16 to submit an offer for the company, which has 24 employees and generated revenue of just under €11 million in 2023, according to a press release published by the receivership firm 2M & Associés.

But without a creator, there is little chance that a buyer will take part in this adventure.

The Los Alamos Laboratory, also known as Project Y, was a secret laboratory created by the Manhattan Project and operated by the University of California during World War II. But let’s not talk about that, but about fashion designers

Y/Project was initially launched as a collaborative project between designer Yohan Serfaty and businessman Gilles Elalouf in 2010. Sadly, Serfaty passed away from cancer in 2013, leaving the brand without an artistic director. After Serfaty’s passing, Elalouf turned to Glenn Martens to lead the brand.

HEARST PARIS 2025

Gabriela Hearst brought the American spirit to Paris’s Left Bank on Monday afternoon, presenting her spring 2025 collection at Karl Lagerfeld’s former home to an audience that included Lily Gladstone, with live music by Wesley Schultz of Colorado folk rock band The Lumineers.

The Uruguayan-American designer served canapés and champagne on the verdant lawn. Inspired by female artistic heroines (you have to find inspiration somewhere)! The ultimate irony for a journalist is to be “on the verge” of death, but I’m still forcing myself to write a few pages about Saint Hearst’s muse who is carrying an estimable corpse: her former collections for Chloé.

Gabriela acts on me like a remedy for love and even with viagra, reason and logic always take over for me. At the word “Hearst”, nothing hardens, the nothingness more staggering than sidereal. This hippie nostalgic for the 70s, the wealthiest of seamstresses, is the bluff on the self, egocentric by her miserable vision that pushes you to a ridiculous dive into the sewing of ready-to-paste and who, to the extreme, to come to Paris for a “show of rags” for the story of a eunuch without head or tail, but do not say: “A man without equal.” Say: “A eunuch.”

ELIE SAAB 2025

Charm, elegance, grace with an apparent sweetness, for a sensitivity sweet as the honey of Lebanon, in a clever mix, it emanates in the room these princess dresses of which the couturier leaves his mark and is part of the lineage of the greatest creators by leaving to fashion an immense heritage of finesse. Continue reading

YSL THE LABYRINTH OF LUXURY

It was in the center of the Champs de Mars, where there are usually the street vendors of the Eiffel Tower cleared by the police for the occasion. The way Vaccarello stigmatized this change of location or better, is to return to the style of the founder of the house. Instinctively intelligent collection, for a dive into the brain of the master of Oran. Despite all the challenges that the luxury industry faces, the Kering group has just understood that, besides communication, the most important thing is to sell in stores.

While it was becoming increasingly difficult to identify the singularity of writing among all French designers, here is the blandness of the “good” but especially of the “safe” for a perspective of a winning ticket that slides gently on the 70s and the 54 club. Life is like fashion, an eternal recommencement! It is certainly safe to say that Vaccarello has found the door to Yves Saint-Laurent or the archives, depending on your point of view. Sometimes, when creation lets you down, it is better to dig into others, but not being able to go back is a form of progression in essence.
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DIOR AMAZON PRIME

Diana is the goddess of hunting, war and the night in Roman mythology, assimilated to “Artemis” in Greek mythology. Artemis, well, funny, isn’t it! Daughter of Jupiter and twin sister of Apollo, she wishes to remain a virgin forever, and when beauty makes its bed, sublime, always alone, she builds her reputation alongside men, but strangely apart too.

The one who invents, unlike the one who discovers, adds to things, and Maria Chiuri, for once, adds a touch of femininity without inventing anything. Amazon huntress to hit the nail on the head, but with the lord, it’s in the thousand billion “bollards”.

Damier Vuitton at Dior for brand synergy and a play of black and white light without the little Pharrells, but also very expensive “flesh”, and as a wink, a little Breton sailor’s shirt to infuriate the prince of Venice. With a Dijon “biker” jacket on her hips, the woman wants to be both masculine and feminine. So here I am on a journey towards my fiery thoughts in the black gravel of the thrill. Beyond the words through which I saw legs walking that stretched out to Dante’s Peak, and how far I pushed into the depths of a dream to write these words. Continue reading

GUCCI 2025