MIU MIU 2022

One of the most defining runway looks of spring 2022 was Miu Miu’s midriff-baring miniskirt and super-crop top in a postage stamp-sized style.

The Aughts throwback became a viral hit, generating its own Instagram account, and becoming as recognizable to the public as the stars who wore it. Adding a touch of neo-preppy chic to girlishness, this fall’s look takes on a school-uniform flavor, with leather-clad misfits thrown in to keep things interesting.

Swedish artists Nathalie Djurberg and Hans Berg created beach chairs made of canvas for the show. What was on the runway also had a sense of transgression, with scandalously short skirts, shirts and the briefest of HotPants for those who do crunches, not lunches.

ETRO GLOBAL EXPENSION

Since July, Etro, controlled by the giant private equity firm L Catterton, has named Iacopo Martini as its chief financial officer. The position had been vacant since last June and was previously held by Michele Manzari. Company famous for its signature paisley motif and bold travel-inspired patterns.

They will report to Etro’s chief executive officer Fabrizio Cardinali, who, according to reports, took on the role of spearheading its global brand expansion in November 2021.

Martini graduated from Rome’s Luiss Guido Carli university and began his career at Procter & Gamble in 1995. He was the consumer goods giant’s CFO for its Italian subsidiary until he was promoted.  Most recently, he was CFO of the beauty company Kiko Milano.

CHANEL A TWEED FOR A TWEET

Chanel celebrates tweed throughout the event, from the fabric covering the walls, the floor, and the seats, to Virginie Viard’s tweed jacket in the battle of the tweed jackets.

A woman wearing a pink tweed jacket paired her leggings fastened with bows and rhinestone-covered shoes with a soft white dog in the peoples.

Viard’s color palette is influenced by images of the River Tweed in Scotland shot by Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin.

She used the full gamut of shades, from psychedelic pinks, purples and greens, to earthy tones fit for country walks at Balmoral Castle.

There’s an English spirit running through the collection, from ‘Spencer’ who drew on images of Coco Chanel wearing the duke’s oversize tweed jackets. Continue reading

VALENTINO MONOCHROME SHOW

After a heavy week dealing with the news, Zendaya’s bold look, which is just one of the elements of the simply joyful fashion show of Pierpaolo Piccioli, offered a glimmer of hope. The Spider-Man star posed for the Valentino fall-winter collection of the Italian house yesterday at the “careau du temple” during fashion week, and she looked simply stunning. Continue reading

BALENCIAGA FOREVER REFUGEE

After water on the ground a snowstorm in a cup of water. Guests arriving at the giant exhibition hall on the fringes of Paris discovered oversized T-shirts the colors of the Ukrainian flag on every seat, and a note card from Demna, whose family fled the civil war in Georgia in 1993. “And I became a forever refugee.

His title for the show, “360 Degrees,” appropriates the language of VR technology, which he subverted by recreating the same effect in real life behind a giant glass screen. It was something of a thumb in the eye to the metaverse, the latest comet hurtling toward planet fashion. The designer lives outside of Zurich and described “shock” at visiting familiar peaks at 3,500 meters and finding no snow.

He views this show as “chapter two” of his last IRL runway extravaganza pre-pandemic, which had models splashing through water in a dark, flooded arena as a metaphor for global warming. Before the lights went up, Demna’s voice could be heard reading a poem in Ukrainian by Oleksandr Oles, whose message, he said backstage afterwards, tells Ukraine “to be strong, to focus on love.”

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BRITISH FASHION CONDEMNING THE WAR

Following Russia’s invasion of Ukraine, the British Fashion Council is encouraging all those in its network to show support for the global campaign of condemnation. In a statement released Thursday, the non-profit organization referred to the British government’s position and the sanctions it imposed on Russia:

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LUXURY BRANDS AND PUTIN WAR

As a result of Russia’s invasion of Ukraine, a raft of new sanctions and travel restrictions have forced European brands to walk a tightrope balancing their moral obligation to help the suffering with their responsibilities to run their businesses.
As a result, a number of companies, including Kering, OTB, Gucci, Acne Studios, Burberry and LVMH Mot Hennessy Louis Vuitton, have pledged their support to organizations such as the United Nations High Commissioner for Refugees, UNHCR, and the Red Cross to aid war victims and those fleeing the Ukraine.
The brand community has reacted differently to the crisis: many have engaged in virtue signaling and posturing, while others have made grand declarations about boycotting Russia without doing any significant business in the country.
Apparently, Russia is no longer a hot market for European luxury brands. According to a Morgan Stanley report earlier this week, the importance of Russia for the luxury goods sector has diminished over the years, and is now essentially immaterial.

YSL

In last season’s Saint Laurent Collection, Anthony Vaccarello drew inspiration from Paloma Picasso, whose theatrical sense of dress was said to have inspired Yves Saint Laurent and nudged his creativity out of bourgeois codes. Continue reading

DRIES VAN NOTEN FRAGRANCE

The designer approached fragrance and lipstick the same way he approaches his design work: with clashing concepts, a riot of colors, prints, and textures. When he joined Puig in 2018, he knew right away that he wanted to dive into the luxury beauty sector.

For Van Notens beauty collection, sustainability was paramount. The perfume bottles are re-usable and refillableThe pouches are made from unused fabric from the fashion line. And there is no plastic foil covering the outer boxes, made from paper pulp.

Starting March 2, Dries Van Noten boutiques and its website will sell the new fragrances and makeup lineSelect retailers will carry them starting at the end of April or early May.

FENDI 2022 BY JONES

Kim Jones opens the show for Fendi in a steamy chiffon dress trimmed with small ruffles and a sheepskin cape. It isn’t my choice of what to wear at the show, but it is part of the brand’s warm up tour. “the Ferrari of fashion,” unveiling a collection that is similar to Karl’s, sexy for a Fall that will be tight around the waist.

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HERMES FOLLOW NOBODY

We don’t follow what others are doing,” executive chairman Alex Dumas said Friday after reporting “exceptional” growth in 2021 that pushed the company close to 9 billion euros in revenues.

 

“We do not intend to use prices as a way of ratcheting up further growth,” he told a webcast with analysts. “Our price is the genuine price.It is true that a bag Birking has 25 000 euro in crocro it can leave the prices at a very low level. Dumas ultimately concluded: “Margin is the result of work well done.”

Still, investors were spooked by a 5.4 percent dip in fourth-quarter revenues in leather goods and saddlery, which Hermès blamed on production constraints and depleted inventories, but who knows if it’s the right reason? But no one can know, because the journalists are held far from the factories, only the dumb bimbo its their news agency, to report on their factory. That the way it is.

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MONCLER CHINESE STYLE

As part of its Genius project, Moncler has teamed up with Chinese designer, DingYun Zhang. The result of this collaboration is a capsule collection of a dozen voluminous down jackets resembling strange and fascinating sculptures, which will be launched in stores to day

The Beijing-based designer set his sights on fashion early on in his life; he first started to design sneakers while still in high school. Inspired by the painters Robert Rauschenberg and David Hockney, Ding moved to England to study fine art. He eventually went on to attend Central Saint Martins in London, where he studied Fashion Design and graduated in 2020.

During his studies, he was spotted by Kayne West’s brand, Yeezy, who recruited him to design for its shoe department. We know now that Kayne West is not a designer. He contributed to the success of a serie of the streetwear brand’s cult models, including the Yeezy 700 Wave Runner. This exposure gave him the opportunity to extend his projects into other fields through clothing collaborations, such as with Moncler.

DIOR THE ECSTASY OF GOLD

The Paris Mint, or Monnaie de Paris, worked with the house of Dior last year on a unique 4.4-pound gold coin featuring the shape of the first perfume bottle created by Christian Dior for his first fragrance, Miss Dior.
This is the first coin the mint has made weighing 4.4 pounds and the first one it has ever presented at auction. The coin’s pre-sale estimate runs between 200,000 euros and 300,000 euros. Some of the auction’s proceeds are to go the association Fleurs d’Exception de Pays de Grasse, which sets out to protect, promote and bring the southern French city’s crops of flowers to their full potential.
“It supports young farmers, fosters the transmission of traditional expertise, advocates for local heritage and works to safeguard the environment and biodiversity,” The Miss Dior coin will go under the block during a live auction at Sotheby’s Paris scheduled to take place on March 2 at 9 a.m. The sale is part of the auction house’s first Luxury Week of 2022, known as Re(LUX).

 

A ROEGE HOVE 2022

Here I am caught in the spider’s web of Copenhagen Fashion Week. First step on the circle of solitude where I was slowly sliding into the labyrinth of the inhuman. Here is the search for the “Kilo Dior” in “Kilo ugly” mode for a more historical-artistic fashion approach, praising an original craft. Extravagant and unique silhouettes are created each season by founder Amalie Røege Hove. We don’t question her Master’s degree in textile design from the Royal Danish Academy of Fine Arts, but rather her years of experience as a knitwear designer mentioned on her website.

But, on the other hand, I can’t shoot them too much because they were kind enough to invite me. I was squeezed in between two Scandinavian blondes who were cocooning like a Sephora store on fire. Dressed as if they had dressed Corinne Masiero in Chic, you know the image of Captain Marleau in stilettos. Continue reading

CARDIN A JOURNEY TO MARS

The house of Pierre Cardin paid tribute to its founder on the one-year anniversary of his death with an outdoor show staged in front of replica of an Ariane 5 rocket.
Presented some 200 creations on a runway set up on the tarmac of the National Air and Space Museum next to Le Bourget airport on the outskirts of Paris.

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