Category Archives: Uncategorized
KNWLS LONDON 2025
Grunge and sexy that pays homage to fashion apparently! Since it is agreed that the eyes are the mirror of the soul, why not admit that the mouth is also the interpreter of the heart, but that is another story…
FENDI ART DES JONES
Art Deco is making a comeback, and next summer, the Paul Poiret retrospective, the turn of the century for the free woman and today’s vision of the world. André Breton’s surrealism is not far away. The abundant Art Nouveau, cut down by the war, is giving way to the precious purities of Art Deco.
THE LUXURY DEPRESSION
As organic sales momentum slows even more than initially expected and visibility on a potential rebound in luxury sales in China is really low, the French group is increasing its prices.
Over the summer, luxury consumption remained strong only in Japan, driven by Chinese tourism, while the Chinese cluster slowed down, the US cluster did not improve as much as expected and Europe delivered a mixed picture.
On the continent, many consumers have adopted a wait-and-see attitude, victims of “greedflation” and price increases by many brands after COVID-19 “simply because they could get away with it rather than simply because they were a reflection of inflationary pressures. Is there a glimmer of hope at the end of the tunnel for the luxury sector?
NEW YORK FASHION WEEK
Manhattan was the big attraction of New York Fashion Week for Spring 2025. The city itself has established itself as one of the world’s leading fashion hubs, much like the Paris Olympics. Designers of all nationalities and backgrounds have chosen iconic locations to stage their shows, placing the city at the very heart of the season’s collections.
The Big Apple was the big attraction of New York Fashion Week for Spring 2025, with 200 shows in the Big Apple, it remains, along with Milan, the Best Fashion Weeks on the planet.
KORS A CLASSIC BAG DRESS
“It’s a rustic opulence,” Kors said during a preview of his spring 2025 collection, summing up a seasonal trend as only he can. The designer’s mood board featured shots of romantic Mediterranean beaches.
So there were winning classics with artisanal, Italian-made extras, like a dark denim circle skirt hand-embroidered with denim flower petals, a statement beige “lace” pencil skirt crafted from leather sequins, and a black double-face cashmere T-shirt and skirt set studded with raffia pinwheels that rustled as they moved. Calais lace is back on the runways, and so is glamour, finally!
The designer better known for his bags than his dresses is making waves in New Yorkand, admittedly, this is Manhattan. Dresses that could have come straight out of the Netflix series Mad Men.
CAMPBELL AGAINST WINTOUR
Instead of starting late like awards shows usually do, the Harlem Fashion Row Show and Style Awards got off to a brisk start Tuesday night at Grant’s Tomb, and it didn’t matter if Wintour was there or not!
Harlem Fashion Row founder Brandice Daniel encouraged the hundreds of attendees to support Black designers by dedicating at least 10 percent of their clothing and home decor purchases to their designs “to create change in the industry.” She also noted that Black consumers’ purchasing power for clothing and footwear is expected to reach $70 billion by 2030, making it easier to see LVMH’s risk-taking with Pharelle Williams. Continue reading
MILLION GOLD A REAL GOLD MINE
it’s out after 5 years of hard work from Rabanne teams and Puig teams Million Gold fronted by the divine Gigi Hadid, to the hypnotic sound of Beyoncé Pure/Honey.
or the top notes, the sparkling rose sees its green facet and its shine nuanced by lavender and a luminous pear accord. To anchor the perfume, finally, a mineral musk, accompanied by moss and vanilla. Million Gold for Her evokes the ecstatic energy that intoxicates you with gold. A perfume mixing a bouquet of intensely feminine white flowers, a sparkling rose and an addictive mineral musk.
After millions in all sauces, here comes gold, for the Puig group a real gold mine.
VIKTOR & ROLF 2024
“Haute Abstraction” rather than “Haute Couture” was in the ballroom of the InterContinental Paris hotel; an appearance of a couture sketch, with sharp angles and cubic volumes for a “hippopo-tala-nunuche” square, and a triangle for the bimbo next to me, a short “Origine du Monde” mini-skirt, which cooked like a well-known perfume store. You know this kind of machine to suffocate you.
NO MORE TED BAKER IN UK
All Ted Baker UK stores will close permanently this week in the UK. Teneo administrators who oversaw the business formerly run by Ted Baker partner No Ordinary Designer Label (which collapsed earlier this year) will be responsible for closing the remaining 31 stores. But when I see the quality of my wife’s tot bag, it doesn’t really surprise me.
The owner of the Ted Baker brand, Authentic Brands Group, said there were no ongoing negotiations with the company, so the negotiations broke down.
It is also unclear what will happen now and whether Ted Baker could return to the streets under the leadership of a new licensing partner.
About 500 jobs are expected to be added to the 245 jobs lost earlier when 15 stores closed earlier this year.
THE ACTRESSES’ SCULPTURE
The idea of an actress over 70 years old continuing to work under the surgeon’s knife is a reflection of the social pressures placed on women, particularly in the fashion and entertainment industry. These pressures often emphasize the need to remain young and attractive to maintain a career, even in old age, like Diane Keaton who no one can recognize anymore.
A sort of social movement of the void where society imposes a standard of eternal youth, particularly for women. Actresses are frequently forced to undergo surgical procedures to match unrealistic beauty standards and remain competitive in the job market. So, we continue to see “Naomie Pabelle”, “Claudia Chou-fleur”, and “Laetitia Casse-toi” on the catwalks of the big Fashion family.
It is not only a matter of personal choice, but also a response to the expectations of the industry and the public. There is an underlying critique of ageism and sexism in this world in which older men are usually valued for their experience and maturity, while women are judged on their appearance. In truth, if I had the choice, I would rather sleep with the “Cauliflower” than the man from Toledo.
KATE AND SAFIYAA
The Princess of Wales, patron of the All England Tennis and Croquet Club, stepped out for the men’s finals of the 2024 Wimbledon Championships wearing a purple dress from British brand Safiyaa.
PEEKABOO FROM FENDI TRUE LUXURY
The iconic Fendi bag has become a thriving Fendi style line; a Peekaboo for men why not! Legendary top-handle bag in a special capsule collection that encapsulates the house’s refined craftsmanship and bold attitude.
An assortment of Peekaboo ISeeU Medium, Peekaboo ISeeU Small and Mini Peekaboo are made in four vibrant colorways (mimosa yellow, tulip red, cyan blue and truffle gray) with handmade macro saddle stitches, a larger stitch inspired by the original techniques master Roman saddlers.
True to the mix-and-match philosophy, the capsule also includes matching Nano Peekaboo and Strap straps with a pocket, both in natural canvas and embroidered with an FF logo in homage to Fendi’s know-how. Better than a Kelly or a Capucine and above all affordable for super quality.
BRITISH POLITICS IN FASHION
Last Friday’s parade of new cabinet ministers into No. 10 Downing Street was more like a red carpet premiere. Usually the rookie ministers stride into No. 10 looking sober, dressed in dark suits, sensible shoes and freshly coiffed.
Not this time. Instead, ministers expressed themselves through a rainbow of color ranging from turquoise to bright red to fuchsia, and ditched traditional suits for dresses or other top and trouser combinations.
A MASCULINE FEMININE
In an effort to challenge gender norms, 61-year-old Mark has worn skirts and heels for four years. With his work outfits, this robotics engineer manager from Germany gained more than 73k followers on social media.
Mark wants to demonstrate that cisgender, straight men can be “masculine” while wearing clothes and shoes that are traditionally considered feminine. He wrote on his Instagram page: “I am just a straight, happily married guy that loves Porsches, beautiful women, and incorporating high heels and skirts into my daily wardrobe.”
According to the father of three, his outfits are not indicative of his sexuality, but rather a way to be comfortable and fashion-forward while challenging gender stereotypes.
OWENS THE WHITE FLAME OF AIR
Ten looks 20 times for a total of 200 models, a sort of grand mass at the Palais de Tokyo for a frenetic, bubbling, almost enraged Fury Road like a saga, giving an almost stroboscopic effect of white on white. Pharaoh Akhenaten was back or the fall of an inhuman society, characterized by the loss of its cultural identity and its socio-economic complexity, decline of a civilization between war, epidemics and depopulation. A society collapsed in on itself which once again becomes more primitive in its clothing.
Akhenaten and the cult of Aten, no other, in more than three millennia of ancient Egypt, will have left such a controversial trace as this Egyptian symbol. At the height of the power of the pyramids, the pharaoh, considered a heretic, triggered a true cultural and religious revolution which still fascinates today with its audacity and its mysteries. Owens projects himself into this vision so realistic, but so dark, that he will use white to make us understand the power of his reflection.
CHANEL AND AFTER VIARD
So here is a new page that is turning for Chanel, but does Haute Couture really have an importance in a luxury house since the 255 bag went from €200 to €9,500 in less than 20 years, bringing to the marks phenomenal internal growth without doing anything?
The choice could first have been Haider Ackermann because Chanel is not in Bogota, but, at the same time, also the young Jacquemus. However, the idea fell through very quickly, because how could he run a studio of small hands, he who knows neither how to draw nor sew himself. Continue reading
44 CHAMPS ELYSÉES
On Avenue des Champs-Élysées, Calvin Klein’s first global flagship will open. On Thursday night, a splashy, celebrity-filled opening party will take place at the 6,500 square foot, three-story space. The public is invited to visit on Friday.
A year ago, Calvin Klein took over No. 44, the former Netflix concept store that shuttered last summer. The opening coincides with Paris 2024’s Olympics and the expected 15 million-plus tourists, but the focus is on long-term premium positioning.
Making such an investment to sell t-shirts seems really weird to me.Calvin Klein’s first global flagship will open on 44 Avenue des Champs-Élysées for the Olympic game, maybe a good idea.
CHANEL BECOMES ORPHAN
Virginie Viard, artistic director of fashion collections at Chanel, has departed the company after five years, according to a statement from Chanel on Wednesday evening. Viard, 62, who succeeded Karl Lagerfeld; but the time for retirement has arrived.
Viard has worked at Chanel for 30 years and was a close collaborator of Karl Lagerfeld, who served as Chanel’s creative director for more than three decades until his death in 2019.
Chanel would like to thank Virginie Viard for her remarkable contribution to fashion, creativity and the vitality of Chanel, Bla bla bli bla bla la. So Viginie you are Fired and the amount of the transaction has not been communicated. Jacquemus are you ready to take the place?
CENTRAL SAINT MARTINS FASHION
John Galliano and his graduation collection, The Incredibles (BA 1984):
“It was totally electrifying, even though it was also a lot of work, I remember, but I was captivated, stimulated, inspired. I just had to stay the course with the universe I was creating. Every detail was important and had to be perfect.” Continue reading