Y PROJECT CHAPTER 11

Y/Project, following the death of its co-founder Gilles Elalouf in June and the departure of its artistic director Glenn Martens last month, was placed in receivership by the Paris Commercial Court on September 26, according to legal documents.

Potential buyers have until October 16 to submit an offer for the company, which has 24 employees and generated revenue of just under €11 million in 2023, according to a press release published by the receivership firm 2M & Associés.

But without a creator, there is little chance that a buyer will take part in this adventure.

The Los Alamos Laboratory, also known as Project Y, was a secret laboratory created by the Manhattan Project and operated by the University of California during World War II. But let’s not talk about that, but about fashion designers

Y/Project was initially launched as a collaborative project between designer Yohan Serfaty and businessman Gilles Elalouf in 2010. Sadly, Serfaty passed away from cancer in 2013, leaving the brand without an artistic director. After Serfaty’s passing, Elalouf turned to Glenn Martens to lead the brand.

HEARST PARIS 2025

Gabriela Hearst brought the American spirit to Paris’s Left Bank on Monday afternoon, presenting her spring 2025 collection at Karl Lagerfeld’s former home to an audience that included Lily Gladstone, with live music by Wesley Schultz of Colorado folk rock band The Lumineers.

The Uruguayan-American designer served canapés and champagne on the verdant lawn. Inspired by female artistic heroines (you have to find inspiration somewhere)! The ultimate irony for a journalist is to be “on the verge” of death, but I’m still forcing myself to write a few pages about Saint Hearst’s muse who is carrying an estimable corpse: her former collections for Chloé.

Gabriela acts on me like a remedy for love and even with viagra, reason and logic always take over for me. At the word “Hearst”, nothing hardens, the nothingness more staggering than sidereal. This hippie nostalgic for the 70s, the wealthiest of seamstresses, is the bluff on the self, egocentric by her miserable vision that pushes you to a ridiculous dive into the sewing of ready-to-paste and who, to the extreme, to come to Paris for a “show of rags” for the story of a eunuch without head or tail, but do not say: “A man without equal.” Say: “A eunuch.”

ELIE SAAB 2025

Charm, elegance, grace with an apparent sweetness, for a sensitivity sweet as the honey of Lebanon, in a clever mix, it emanates in the room these princess dresses of which the couturier leaves his mark and is part of the lineage of the greatest creators by leaving to fashion an immense heritage of finesse. Continue reading

YSL THE LABYRINTH OF LUXURY

It was in the center of the Champs de Mars, where there are usually the street vendors of the Eiffel Tower cleared by the police for the occasion. The way Vaccarello stigmatized this change of location or better, is to return to the style of the founder of the house. Instinctively intelligent collection, for a dive into the brain of the master of Oran. Despite all the challenges that the luxury industry faces, the Kering group has just understood that, besides communication, the most important thing is to sell in stores.

While it was becoming increasingly difficult to identify the singularity of writing among all French designers, here is the blandness of the “good” but especially of the “safe” for a perspective of a winning ticket that slides gently on the 70s and the 54 club. Life is like fashion, an eternal recommencement! It is certainly safe to say that Vaccarello has found the door to Yves Saint-Laurent or the archives, depending on your point of view. Sometimes, when creation lets you down, it is better to dig into others, but not being able to go back is a form of progression in essence.
FM

DIOR AMAZON PRIME

Diana is the goddess of hunting, war and the night in Roman mythology, assimilated to “Artemis” in Greek mythology. Artemis, well, funny, isn’t it! Daughter of Jupiter and twin sister of Apollo, she wishes to remain a virgin forever, and when beauty makes its bed, sublime, always alone, she builds her reputation alongside men, but strangely apart too.

The one who invents, unlike the one who discovers, adds to things, and Maria Chiuri, for once, adds a touch of femininity without inventing anything. Amazon huntress to hit the nail on the head, but with the lord, it’s in the thousand billion “bollards”.

Damier Vuitton at Dior for brand synergy and a play of black and white light without the little Pharrells, but also very expensive “flesh”, and as a wink, a little Breton sailor’s shirt to infuriate the prince of Venice. With a Dijon “biker” jacket on her hips, the woman wants to be both masculine and feminine. So here I am on a journey towards my fiery thoughts in the black gravel of the thrill. Beyond the words through which I saw legs walking that stretched out to Dante’s Peak, and how far I pushed into the depths of a dream to write these words. Continue reading

GUCCI 2025

KNWLS LONDON 2025

Grunge and sexy that pays homage to fashion apparently! Since it is agreed that the eyes are the mirror of the soul, why not admit that the mouth is also the interpreter of the heart, but that is another story…

FENDI ART DES JONES

Art Deco is making a comeback, and next summer, the Paul Poiret retrospective, the turn of the century for the free woman and today’s vision of the world. André Breton’s surrealism is not far away. The abundant Art Nouveau, cut down by the war, is giving way to the precious purities of Art Deco.

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THE LUXURY DEPRESSION

As organic sales momentum slows even more than initially expected and visibility on a potential rebound in luxury sales in China is really low, the French group is increasing its prices.

Over the summer, luxury consumption remained strong only in Japan, driven by Chinese tourism, while the Chinese cluster slowed down, the US cluster did not improve as much as expected and Europe delivered a mixed picture.

On the continent, many consumers have adopted a wait-and-see attitude, victims of “greedflation” and price increases by many brands after COVID-19 “simply because they could get away with it rather than simply because they were a reflection of inflationary pressures. Is there a glimmer of hope at the end of the tunnel for the luxury sector?

NEW YORK FASHION WEEK

Manhattan was the big attraction of New York Fashion Week for Spring 2025. The city itself has established itself as one of the world’s leading fashion hubs, much like the Paris Olympics. Designers of all nationalities and backgrounds have chosen iconic locations to stage their shows, placing the city at the very heart of the season’s collections.
The Big Apple was the big attraction of New York Fashion Week for Spring 2025, with 200 shows in the Big Apple, it remains, along with Milan, the Best Fashion Weeks on the planet.

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KORS A CLASSIC BAG DRESS

“It’s a rustic opulence,” Kors said during a preview of his spring 2025 collection, summing up a seasonal trend as only he can. The designer’s mood board featured shots of romantic Mediterranean beaches.

So there were winning classics with artisanal, Italian-made extras, like a dark denim circle skirt hand-embroidered with denim flower petals, a statement beige “lace” pencil skirt crafted from leather sequins, and a black double-face cashmere T-shirt and skirt set studded with raffia pinwheels that rustled as they moved. Calais lace is back on the runways, and so is glamour, finally!

The designer better known for his bags than his dresses is making waves in New Yorkand, admittedly, this is Manhattan. Dresses that could have come straight out of the Netflix series Mad Men.

CAMPBELL AGAINST WINTOUR

Instead of starting late like awards shows usually do, the Harlem Fashion Row Show and Style Awards got off to a brisk start Tuesday night at Grant’s Tomb, and it didn’t matter if Wintour was there or not!

Harlem Fashion Row founder Brandice Daniel encouraged the hundreds of attendees to support Black designers by dedicating at least 10 percent of their clothing and home decor purchases to their designs “to create change in the industry.” She also noted that Black consumers’ purchasing power for clothing and footwear is expected to reach $70 billion by 2030, making it easier to see LVMH’s risk-taking with Pharelle Williams. Continue reading

MILLION GOLD A REAL GOLD MINE

it’s out after 5 years of hard work from Rabanne teams and Puig teams Million Gold fronted by the divine Gigi Hadid, to the hypnotic sound of Beyoncé Pure/Honey.

or the top notes, the sparkling rose sees its green facet and its shine nuanced by lavender and a luminous pear accord. To anchor the perfume, finally, a mineral musk, accompanied by moss and vanilla. Million Gold for Her evokes the ecstatic energy that intoxicates you with gold. A perfume mixing a bouquet of intensely feminine white flowers, a sparkling rose and an addictive mineral musk.

After millions in all sauces, here comes gold, for the Puig group a real gold mine.

VIKTOR & ROLF 2024

“Haute Abstraction” rather than “Haute Couture” was in the ballroom of the InterContinental Paris hotel; an appearance of a couture sketch, with sharp angles and cubic volumes for a “hippopo-tala-nunuche” square, and a triangle for the bimbo next to me, a short “Origine du Monde” mini-skirt, which cooked like a well-known perfume store. You know this kind of machine to suffocate you.

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NO MORE TED BAKER IN UK

All Ted Baker UK stores will close permanently this week in the UK. Teneo administrators who oversaw the business formerly run by Ted Baker partner No Ordinary Designer Label (which collapsed earlier this year) will be responsible for closing the remaining 31 stores. But when I see the quality of my wife’s tot bag, it doesn’t really surprise me.

The owner of the Ted Baker brand, Authentic Brands Group, said there were no ongoing negotiations with the company, so the negotiations broke down.

It is also unclear what will happen now and whether Ted Baker could return to the streets under the leadership of a new licensing partner.

About 500 jobs are expected to be added to the 245 jobs lost earlier when 15 stores closed earlier this year.

THE ACTRESSES’ SCULPTURE

The idea of ​​an actress over 70 years old continuing to work under the surgeon’s knife is a reflection of the social pressures placed on women, particularly in the fashion and entertainment industry. These pressures often emphasize the need to remain young and attractive to maintain a career, even in old age, like Diane Keaton who no one can recognize anymore.

A sort of social movement of the void where society imposes a standard of eternal youth, particularly for women. Actresses are frequently forced to undergo surgical procedures to match unrealistic beauty standards and remain competitive in the job market. So, we continue to see “Naomie Pabelle”, “Claudia Chou-fleur”, and “Laetitia Casse-toi” on the catwalks of the big Fashion family.

It is not only a matter of personal choice, but also a response to the expectations of the industry and the public. There is an underlying critique of ageism and sexism in this world in which older men are usually valued for their experience and maturity, while women are judged on their appearance. In truth, if I had the choice, I would rather sleep with the “Cauliflower” than the man from Toledo.

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KATE AND SAFIYAA

The Princess of Wales, patron of the All England Tennis and Croquet Club, stepped out for the men’s finals of the 2024 Wimbledon Championships wearing a purple dress from British brand Safiyaa.

PEEKABOO FROM FENDI TRUE LUXURY

The iconic Fendi bag has become a thriving Fendi style line; a Peekaboo for men why not! Legendary top-handle bag in a special capsule collection that encapsulates the house’s refined craftsmanship and bold attitude.

An assortment of Peekaboo ISeeU Medium, Peekaboo ISeeU Small and Mini Peekaboo are made in four vibrant colorways (mimosa yellow, tulip red, cyan blue and truffle gray) with handmade macro saddle stitches, a larger stitch inspired by the original techniques master Roman saddlers.

True to the mix-and-match philosophy, the capsule also includes matching Nano Peekaboo and Strap straps with a pocket, both in natural canvas and embroidered with an FF logo in homage to Fendi’s know-how. Better than a Kelly or a Capucine and above all affordable for super quality.

BRITISH POLITICS IN FASHION

Last Friday’s parade of new cabinet ministers into No. 10 Downing Street was more like a red carpet premiere. Usually the rookie ministers stride into No. 10 looking sober, dressed in dark suits, sensible shoes and freshly coiffed.
Not this time. Instead, ministers expressed themselves through a rainbow of color ranging from turquoise to bright red to fuchsia, and ditched traditional suits for dresses or other top and trouser combinations.

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