VIKTOR & ROLF 2024

“Haute Abstraction” rather than “Haute Couture” was in the ballroom of the InterContinental Paris hotel; an appearance of a couture sketch, with sharp angles and cubic volumes for a “hippopo-tala-nunuche” square, and a triangle for the bimbo next to me, a short “Origine du Monde” mini-skirt, which cooked like a well-known perfume store. You know this kind of machine to suffocate you.

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NO MORE TED BAKER IN UK

All Ted Baker UK stores will close permanently this week in the UK. Teneo administrators who oversaw the business formerly run by Ted Baker partner No Ordinary Designer Label (which collapsed earlier this year) will be responsible for closing the remaining 31 stores. But when I see the quality of my wife’s tot bag, it doesn’t really surprise me.

The owner of the Ted Baker brand, Authentic Brands Group, said there were no ongoing negotiations with the company, so the negotiations broke down.

It is also unclear what will happen now and whether Ted Baker could return to the streets under the leadership of a new licensing partner.

About 500 jobs are expected to be added to the 245 jobs lost earlier when 15 stores closed earlier this year.

THE ACTRESSES’ SCULPTURE

The idea of ​​an actress over 70 years old continuing to work under the surgeon’s knife is a reflection of the social pressures placed on women, particularly in the fashion and entertainment industry. These pressures often emphasize the need to remain young and attractive to maintain a career, even in old age, like Diane Keaton who no one can recognize anymore.

A sort of social movement of the void where society imposes a standard of eternal youth, particularly for women. Actresses are frequently forced to undergo surgical procedures to match unrealistic beauty standards and remain competitive in the job market. So, we continue to see “Naomie Pabelle”, “Claudia Chou-fleur”, and “Laetitia Casse-toi” on the catwalks of the big Fashion family.

It is not only a matter of personal choice, but also a response to the expectations of the industry and the public. There is an underlying critique of ageism and sexism in this world in which older men are usually valued for their experience and maturity, while women are judged on their appearance. In truth, if I had the choice, I would rather sleep with the “Cauliflower” than the man from Toledo.

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KATE AND SAFIYAA

The Princess of Wales, patron of the All England Tennis and Croquet Club, stepped out for the men’s finals of the 2024 Wimbledon Championships wearing a purple dress from British brand Safiyaa.

PEEKABOO FROM FENDI TRUE LUXURY

The iconic Fendi bag has become a thriving Fendi style line; a Peekaboo for men why not! Legendary top-handle bag in a special capsule collection that encapsulates the house’s refined craftsmanship and bold attitude.

An assortment of Peekaboo ISeeU Medium, Peekaboo ISeeU Small and Mini Peekaboo are made in four vibrant colorways (mimosa yellow, tulip red, cyan blue and truffle gray) with handmade macro saddle stitches, a larger stitch inspired by the original techniques master Roman saddlers.

True to the mix-and-match philosophy, the capsule also includes matching Nano Peekaboo and Strap straps with a pocket, both in natural canvas and embroidered with an FF logo in homage to Fendi’s know-how. Better than a Kelly or a Capucine and above all affordable for super quality.

BRITISH POLITICS IN FASHION

Last Friday’s parade of new cabinet ministers into No. 10 Downing Street was more like a red carpet premiere. Usually the rookie ministers stride into No. 10 looking sober, dressed in dark suits, sensible shoes and freshly coiffed.
Not this time. Instead, ministers expressed themselves through a rainbow of color ranging from turquoise to bright red to fuchsia, and ditched traditional suits for dresses or other top and trouser combinations.

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A MASCULINE FEMININE

In an effort to challenge gender norms, 61-year-old Mark has worn skirts and heels for four years. With his work outfits, this robotics engineer manager from Germany gained more than 73k followers on social media.

Mark wants to demonstrate that cisgender, straight men can be “masculine” while wearing clothes and shoes that are traditionally considered feminine. He wrote on his Instagram page: “I am just a straight, happily married guy that loves Porsches, beautiful women, and incorporating high heels and skirts into my daily wardrobe.”

According to the father of three, his outfits are not indicative of his sexuality, but rather a way to be comfortable and fashion-forward while challenging gender stereotypes.

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OWENS THE WHITE FLAME OF AIR

Ten looks 20 times for a total of 200 models, a sort of grand mass at the Palais de Tokyo for a frenetic, bubbling, almost enraged Fury Road like a saga, giving an almost stroboscopic effect of white on white. Pharaoh Akhenaten was back or the fall of an inhuman society, characterized by the loss of its cultural identity and its socio-economic complexity, decline of a civilization between war, epidemics and depopulation. A society collapsed in on itself which once again becomes more primitive in its clothing.

Akhenaten and the cult of Aten, no other, in more than three millennia of ancient Egypt, will have left such a controversial trace as this Egyptian symbol. At the height of the power of the pyramids, the pharaoh, considered a heretic, triggered a true cultural and religious revolution which still fascinates today with its audacity and its mysteries. Owens projects himself into this vision so realistic, but so dark, that he will use white to make us understand the power of his reflection.

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CHANEL AND AFTER VIARD

So here is a new page that is turning for Chanel, but does Haute Couture really have an importance in a luxury house since the 255 bag went from €200 to €9,500 in less than 20 years, bringing to the marks phenomenal internal growth without doing anything?

The choice could first have been Haider Ackermann because Chanel is not in Bogota, but, at the same time, also the young Jacquemus. However, the idea fell through very quickly, because how could he run a studio of small hands, he who knows neither how to draw nor sew himself. Continue reading

44 CHAMPS ELYSÉES

On Avenue des Champs-Élysées, Calvin Klein’s first global flagship will open. On Thursday night, a splashy, celebrity-filled opening party will take place at the 6,500 square foot, three-story space. The public is invited to visit on Friday.

A year ago, Calvin Klein took over No. 44, the former Netflix concept store that shuttered last summer. The opening coincides with Paris 2024’s Olympics and the expected 15 million-plus tourists, but the focus is on long-term premium positioning.

Making such an investment to sell t-shirts seems really weird to me.Calvin Klein’s first global flagship will open on 44 Avenue des Champs-Élysées for the Olympic game, maybe a good idea.

CHANEL BECOMES ORPHAN

Virginie Viard, artistic director of fashion collections at Chanel, has departed the company after five years, according to a statement from Chanel on Wednesday evening. Viard, 62, who succeeded Karl Lagerfeld; but the time for retirement has arrived.

Viard has worked at Chanel for 30 years and was a close collaborator of Karl Lagerfeld, who served as Chanel’s creative director for more than three decades until his death in 2019.

Chanel would like to thank Virginie Viard for her remarkable contribution to fashion, creativity and the vitality of Chanel, Bla bla bli bla bla la. So Viginie you are Fired and the amount of the transaction has not been communicated. Jacquemus are you ready to take the place?

CENTRAL SAINT MARTINS FASHION

John Galliano and his graduation collection, The Incredibles (BA 1984):
“It was totally electrifying, even though it was also a lot of work, I remember, but I was captivated, stimulated, inspired. I just had to stay the course with the universe I was creating. Every detail was important and had to be perfect.” Continue reading

LVMH MUSICAL CHAIR

After six years as CEO of Fendi, Serge Brunschwig will take on new responsibilities within the LVMH group. Pierre-Emmanuel Angeloglou has been appointed CEO of Fendi effective June 1, in addition to his role as CEO of LVMH Fashion Group.

Angeloglou became chief executive of LVMH Fashion Group in March, overseeing Fendi, Kenzo, Marc Jacobs, Pucci, Stella McCartney, Patou and Off-White.

I am delighted to find Pierre-Emmanuel as Managing Director of the Fashion Group. Since 2019 at Louis Vuitton, he has been a key player in the brand’s success. Its ability to articulate a convincing vision, coupled with the accountability available to its teams, will allow the Fashion Group Division to fully embrace the objective of enhancing the magic of these extraordinary Maisons, with their astonishing capacity for innovation and their history and unique know-how. do.” said Michael Burke.

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CHANEL VISITS THE RADIANT CITY

Chanel has placed its trust in Virginie Viard after the French luxury house once again achieved record revenues in 2023, but not in couture. Despite a slowdown in global luxury spending and mixed reactions online to the latest price hikes and ready-to-wear, everyone knows the growth is growing internally with their dramatic rise in accessories prices.

Revenue was $19.7 billion last year, up 16% like-for-like, with double-digit growth in all categories, like pricing, interesting right!

With its Chanel show in Marseille, which was aimed at a younger demographic, with a show held on the roof of the Cité Radieuse, one of architect Le Corbusier’s landmark mid-century housing projects. Chanel for the thug from Marseille, probably a new Jacquemus concept.

But it is worth noting high employee satisfaction rates, despite a series of high-profile manager departures last year, it is well known that employees leave because they feel good in the company. Welcome to the wonderful world of fashion.

THE IMPOSTER CREATED DIORAMA

The artistic director of Dior Joaillerie, Victory Puffism, yet another designer who doesn’t know how to draw, and despite this for 25 years, the designer has managed to shape a style that is that of others. I always wonder how you can draw jewelry in a house when you don’t know how to draw? Bravo to the designers behind who understand the ideas of Castellane.

Dreamlike and magical flora and fauna for the Diorama and Diorigami collections, unveiled in Florence with a fashion show in the courtyard of the cloister of the Basilica of Santa Maria Novella where as usual I was not invited.

The models, dressed in 25 outfits created for the occasion by Maria Grazia Chiuri, artistic director of the women’s haute couture collections the Georges Sand of couture. Guests sipped Ruinart champagne branding requires.

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MAN HUNTING CANNES

Help ! Mine, Marquis de Sade! It was yesterday, once again, at the opening of the Cannes Film Festival. This time, as at every demonstration, the majority of men are made to look like harassers, serial rapists! Once again, we are stigmatized, and moreover by a woman, who would certainly never have been in a producer’s room, she, who often goes to La Châtre, to see the grave of Georges Sand.

Hearing the Nespresso Mistress of a café called “Désir” ends up tiring of me. Being continually placed in the ranks of a minority, suggesting that the male majority are counterfeit humans: “Cetaceans” could have said Harvey The Whale.

I love women and I respect them. I have no apprehension for these subjects which advance civilization and which can do good for humanity. But enough is enough! Who will dare to say it in front of these “Females” thirsty for revenge, and who absolutely want to create a tsunami against the male gender.

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SAMARITAIN IN PARIS

Opening September 1, Florasis à la Samaritaine. The counter will be located in the center of the beauty floor, alongside a wide range of premium international beauty brands. The space will allow the brand to demonstrate what merging Eastern beauty philosophy with Western luxury retail would look like. The lord’s flagship leaves the door open to China in the center of Paris
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The brand is known for being an affordable brand in China and loved by millions, it aims to maintain a consistent global pricing strategy. That said, prices at the Samaritaine counter will be considered to reflect the local market, as Samaritaine is not the most competitive location or prices.

Gabby Chen, president of global expansion for Hangzhou-based Florasis, known locally as Hua Xizi, said the partnership with DFS, notably at Samaritaine in Paris, provides the brand with “a strategic location synonymous with luxury and style. But the financial agreement is unknown, we have to make profitable a store which is more of a museum than a real boutique.

The location should also appeal to international and especially Chinese travelers, more than to local Parisians.

DIOR KIM ISLAND

Kim Jones, artistic director of men’s collections at Dior, is a longtime fan of the brand founded by Massimo Osti in 1982 so much so that he is one of the faces of its upcoming campaign featuring members of its community.

Stone Island is something that I’ve worn since I was a teenager. I could afford one piece. I remember saving up for it and it was so hard to get,” Jones said in an interview at the Dior showroom in Paris. “It was just a little sweatshirt, but with the patch, and I was probably about 19.” Continue reading

BEYONCE PLATINUM ILLUSIONS

With this new hairstyle, Beyoncé pushes the “Texan hair” trend even further. Beyoncé seems to be taking on the “Texan hair” trend after showing off with blonde curls defying weightlessness under her cowboy hat during the last Superbowl in Nevada, she reiterates with a sixties-inspired hairstyle defying the laws as much of gravity than Dolly Parton’s hair abundance.

Platinum blonde, the singer pushed the limits by appearing as if wearing a helmet with her roots unstuck, brushed and lacquered back, simply leaving two strands to frame her face.

A way for her to attract attention and admiration, but also to rewrite the codes of beauty in the South of the United States…

FALABELLA A DWARF PONY

A nude Cara Delevingne carrying a Falabella XXL bag in Stella McCartney’s latest campaign, celebrating the 15th anniversary of the original vegan fashion. Created in Argentina, the breed owes its name to the Falabella family, who have managed its main breeding since the end of the 19th century.

Named after the designer’s favorite species of pony growing up in the British countryside, the Falabella has been loved by major pop stars like Rihanna, Beyoncé and Kate Hudson. The poor little girl who came to school in her father’s Rolls.

All Falabella bags have an ocean monogram plastic lining and are hand-laced with an organic cotton rope, made of Vegan plastic of course.