Coperni designers Sebastien Meyer and Arnaud Vaillant sought to create more impactful images by sending robot dogs down the runway, which led to a confrontation between model Rianne Van Rompaey and a quadruped that created a palpable sense of unease. After the plastic painting on mannequin a robot that undresses the mannequins.
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DRIES VAN NOTEN PARIS 2023
Intimacy. That’s what inspired Dries Van Noten’s fall 2023 women’s collection, which was dedicated to the love of clothes and cultivating relationships.Van Noten elevated dressmaker and mending details to the stage of Le Dôme de Paris (Palais des arts). Porte de versailles.
Some of the classics had special touches, such as a trench coat with gold paint rolled around the waist, as if it had been embellished by hand.
There were also feminine, lingerie-inspired pieces that contrasted with the masculine tailoring, including slipdresses embroidered with French lace or strapped with old necklaces, organza layered skirts with raw edges, and dusters with subtle floral prints over bra tops.
“We wanted pieces to look antique but not dusty,” he said, noting that a gold lamé floral was adopted from an archival piece found in a mill in Como, and another fabric was Continue reading
SCHIAPARELLI PARIS 2023
The Paris calendar is jam-packed with shows this season, so our backstage spy reporter will have more shows to cover, including big names like Christian Dior, Loewe and Givenchy as well as newcomers like Paco Rabanne and Y/Project. Daniel Roseberry’s Schiaparelli show is always a viral hit, and this season he’ll show ready-to-wear for the house for the first time. Wise very wise…
VICTOR WEINSANTO THE INVITATION
PARIS FASHION GUERILLA
MOSCHINO 2023 MILANO
At Moschino the surrealism that is the DNA of the brand, is undeniably transformed into a new facet of the Italian label, with a spirit of rebellion for a Chanel-lisation of the brand the posh in the anarchic vision of the punk cool for bourgeoises walk in Milan.
PRONOUNCE RTW 2023
Founded by Yushan Li and Jun Zhou, Shanghai-based Pronounce’s fall 2023 collection was inspired by Chinese oracle bone scripts and knots, two of humanity’s oldest ways of storing information.
The suits and coats of the Mao regime resembled bones dug up from the ground, while tops, trousers, and outerwear featured giant ancient Chinese characters.
Giant knots danced around the sweaters in red, white, and brown, and oversize decorative patterns were made by knotting.
They said the collection represents their reflection of the information overload of the digital age, and how looking back might be the best course of action.
Their instincts were correct. This collection offered a fresh take on Chinese culture that wasn’t cliché. For those seeking Chinese identity, the collection has it all, and for those looking for great clothes, the brand has a lot to offer.” Continue reading
BURBERRY FALL 2023
JW ANDERSON LONDON
UNITED COLOR OF ANDERSON; Looking at his archives, Anderson added the colors and images created by one of his heroes, pioneering dancer and choreographer Michael Clark. (In 2004, he staged the Alexander McQueen fashion show, which was more of an artistic performance than a fashion Show)
SIMONE ROCHA
Simone Rocha used Lughnasadh in Westminster’s cavernous Central Methodist Hall yesterday. Models walked around the first level of the hall before carefully descending the ornate central staircase to skirt the rows below. An ensemble of musicians performed a brooding, sometimes sinister, and very Celtic-sounding composition on stage.
You could imagine the venue’s founding fathers feeling aflutter as the looks unfolded and the soundtrack’s tempo gathered melodic urgency. The red ribbons that fell from the hair, garments, and sometimes eyes of certain models were meant to represent blood traditionally daubed on children’s faces to ward off ill spirits and bad luck.
Their ostensible primness and tumbled suggestion of their fabrication created a richly contradictory tension.
THOM BROWNBE AND ST EXUPERY
WILLIAMS MIDDLE FINGER FOR KANYE WEST
Louis Vuitton appoints Pharrell Williams as creative director for men, you now have to be a thug, athlete or rapper to be a fashion designer, so why make fashion schools? Pharrell Irish name which means brave, half black and not designer, after the achitechs the singers now!
RODARTE GLAM GOTHIC
Wednesday From Tim Burton, Gothic at Rodarte, animal at Collina Strada: two universes opened Friday the Fashion Week of New York, little provided in big names of fashion but full of young designers and emerging signatures, its trademark now.
Rodarte, the brand of the Californian sisters Kate and Laura Mulleavy, one of the most upscale to make its return in the New York calendar.
The two sisters, who had already made a detour into haute couture in Paris, and whose pieces are already featured in American museums, offered a gothic and mystical show, around a large table with tablecloths, dishes and silver candlesticks, in a landmark building in Brooklyn, the “Williamsburg Savings Bank Tower”.
The Rodarte show also reveals sublime dresses evoking both the fashion of the 30s with pieces adorned with bangs but also the golden age of Hollywood through dresses in silk and glamorous lace. Continue reading
HALLE BERRY METABOLIC
Halle Berry has joined Pendulum Therapeutics as chief communications officer, where she will advise on products and support the brand’s mission. She also became a brand equity owner and investor.
With its probiotic capsules, Pendulum Therapeutics offers gut health, sugar management, occasional gut discomfort, and metabolic health. Berry has been using the brand’s products for over a year, according to the brand, which received a $54 million Series C investment in 2021.
“Your gut and microbiome are so important to the rest of your overall health. It’s all connected. When I started using Pendulum, I immediately felt the difference in both my body and mind and I have been using it every day since,” Berry said in a statement. Continue reading
GOD SAVE THE QUEEN CARTNEY
Stella McCartney went to Windsor Castle on Tuesday to see her friend and environmental activist, King Charles III, and to receive her latest award, OBE, for services to fashion and sustainability. The woman who received by Bernard Arnault 100 million euros, ve ry expensive for a socialite!
Ms. McCartney was among more than 1,000 members of the British public to receive an official award from Queen Elizabeth. Ms. McCartney wore a bespoke navy dress, handcrafted in her London atelier from Nativa’s regenerative and traceable wool. Nativa’s wool adheres to the highest levels of animal welfare, environmental protection and care for farmers and local communities, according to McCartney’s company.
R.I.P HILARY
After a long illness, Hilary Alexander, the London-based fashion writer who described leopard prints in her 2018 book, died at 77.
As president of the Graduate Fashion Foundation, which hosts Graduate Fashion Week, an annual showcase for fashion students, Alexander mentored many British fashion journalists during her long career at The Daily Telegraph.
Woe to anyone who interfered with Alexander’s pursuing a story or rushing to the next show when she was a bon viveur partial to Champagne and cigarettes. The gravelly sound of her voice could be heard through even the most dense fashion crowd, and she traveled the world reporting on shows, special events, and, of course, parties.
FASHION GRAMMYS
Easily one of the most fun red carpets in Hollywood, the Grammys brought out the biggest names in music on Sunday. Harry Styles, Bad Bunny, Lizzo, Mary J. Blige, Brandi Carlile, Sam Smith, Steve Lacy, Kim Petras, and Luke Combs will perform at the 2023 awards.
PACO RABANNE PASS AWAY AT 88
Black magic for white poetry of burning metal, and like a magnetic transgression, the man from Castille had enriched Parisian fashion with feminine sculptures in polyethylene and metal?
His sewing is chemical and fantastic, it was phenomenal, but also pheromonal at the sight of his dresses surges an ocean of oxytocin .
I remember; he was there kneeling in that human distress of the true creators, and you could feel the passionate fervor in his black eyes. He would pull his hands back behind his back to show that he was the slave and not the master of his sewing. He leaned his head against the bottom of the mannequin’s throat, and on his side he clipped a metal ring like a child adoring the Madonna as a devotee, receiving the host of notoriety.
HERMES AND ROTHSCHILD
In the Southern District of New York, Mason Rothschild wrapped up his testimony Thursday at the trademark infringement trial brought forth by Hermès.
California-based artist has been accused of trademark infringement, dilution, and cybersquatting. 100 “MetaBirkin” NFTs were created by Rothschild, two-dimensional images of faux-fur-covered handbags inspired by the luxury house’s prized Birkin bag.
Rothschild, according to Hermès executives and its legal team, confused consumers, diluted the brand and affected the company’s own NFT and metaverse plans. The project was conceived in late 2021 by Rothschild, who goes by the name Sonny Estival. It was motivated by the fur-free movement that was becoming popular in the fashion industry at the time, as well as his desire to create an illusion of value for digital handbags similar to Birkins. He and his team have argued repeatedly that his artistic expression is protected by the First Amendment and the two-dimensional blockchain-hosted images cannot be used as handbags in the metaverse. Continue reading
CREATIVE DIRECTOR QUITS TIFFANY
LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton owned jeweler Tiffany and Co has lost its executive creative director, Ruba Abu-Nimah, to another company. In a forced march you always end up destroying someone. Is it possible for an overweight woman to have a role in LVMH?
After LVMH acquired Tiffany, Ruba Abu-Nimah joined Tiffany’s new creative leadership team in 2021. In her role, she was responsible for overseeing visual creative assets such as website design and imagery, social media content and advertising.
Abu-Nimah is a seasoned creative, who has also held executive and coaching positions at Revlon and Shiseido.