Spring 2021 show, which was held in a vast white box in the Tuileries Garden. Chiuri has been one busy bee in recent months: creating a couture collection in miniature, and a lavish film that continued her narrative, and staging a massive open-air show in Lecce, Italy, for cruise that involved scores of collaborations with local artisans. Here she continued the thread and the toil for spring, linking with women in Indonesia for original Ikat prints, and turning out 86 exits in a dark room punctuated with stained-glass-like windows bearing magazine collages by artist Lucia Marcucci.

With all the loose shapes duster coats, short kimonos and wide culottes and the scarf prints in dusty colors, the clothes felt like old friends or heirlooms, far from the slick and glossy luxury goods of yore.

Chiuri remains committed to physical runway shows even as restrictions on daily life are mounting along with COVID-19 cases in France deeming them the best way to display haute craftsmanship, and a fashion message.

She had a chorus of women singing a lament by avant-garde Italian composer Lucia Ronchetti that added another somber, occasionally dissonant layer to the proceedings.

A woman in the audience would walk onto the catwalk toward the conclusion of the show and unfurl a yellow banner bearing the slogan “We Are All Fashion Victims” and the logo of London climate protest group Extinction Rebellion. We were not invited, however others were invited to protest again climat

The audience barely reacted. No photographers howled. No security guards rushed in, and the young woman completed her runway walk as calmly as the models who came before her. Some even thought she might be part of the show.