A horde of screaming fans huddled behind barriers greeted the BTS member on Place de la Concorde. The mood inside the darkened tent was one of controlled chaos as the South Korean heartthrob joined Robert Pattinson, Eddie Redmayne, J Balvin, David Beckham and Gwendoline Christie.

It isn’t the first time Kim Jones has used literature to inspire a collection. The designer, who collects rare book editions, has referenced Virginia Woolf and Jack Kerouac.

From metallic brocade shorts to a light gray hammered satin trench coat, Jones combined literal references like fisherman sweaters, waxed capes, lifesaver vests and sou’wester hats with shimmering textures.

However, the main inspiration came from the Dior archives. Having mined the legacy of Marc Bohan in previous collections, Jones turned to Yves Saint Laurent’s work after the unexpected death of founder Christian Dior in 1957.

As Baillie Walsh directed the performance set to Max Richter’s live performance, the performance was an invitation to quiet reflection, but its mood quickly dissipated outside, where screaming continued long after Jones, Pattinson and Christie had finished.