It is true that after the devil Alexandro Michele, who dressed as Nada, the worst could not be even deeper at Gucci, but will that be enough to excite the millennials who consume luxury in a declining market?

Friday afternoon at the triennial, formerly called “La Force de l’Art”, a place for a stimulation of the interaction between industry and applied arts – a message perhaps? – we attend a show with a very impressive crowd that lines the street as far as the eye can see. The stars parade like the customers of the Goutte d’Or in the past. Daisy Edgar-Jones and Dakota Johnson were in cream-colored lace like two twins. François-Henri Pinault was all smiles as he posed with Jin from BTS.

On the podium, a year after taking over the brand owned by Kering, which was once the group’s cash cow, and which since Michele has been synonymous with freefall without “Para-pute”, artistic director Sabato De Sarno gives us Helmut Lang mixed with a zest of Hermès à la Miu Miu, for flower women that I knew in the 70s. With this collection, does he want to reaffirm the codes of the house and its return? There were a lot of accessories, but especially bags coordinated with the outfits, which were magnificent; you have to bring in cash to live! In short, Zara at stratospheric prices, luxury without a soul, yet I am for increasing the taste of the loaf, but not much here! If the son of the Prince of Venice wants a better designer, and moreover, Breton, I have a name to submit to him.

FM