Willy Chavarria  the CFDA Menswear Designer of the Year Award winner showed in a primo time slot on the first night of New York Fashion Week in the same building where his design studio is housed in Greenpoint, Brooklyn.

His packed front row included Julia Fox, Becky G, Sam Smith, Susanne Bartsch and former club kid Amanda Lepore. The room was flooded with sexy red lighting, and the wooden chairs were stamped with the image of the Virgin of Guadalupe, underscoring the influence of the Catholic church and religious life on the Mexican American designer.

Charles de Vilmorin is ready for his next act: a ready-to-wear line! showcase hosted by the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode.

Moschino has appointed Adrian Appiolaza as creative director. The Argentinian designer will lead the house’s women’s, men’s and accessories collections, succeeding Davide Renne, who died prematurely last November a few months after being appointed head of style at Moschino.

Adrian Appiolaza left Buenos Aires, where he grew up, in his early twenties to move to London, where he graduated from Central Saint Martins fashion school. On leaving school in 2002, he made his debut at Chloé, before transferring to Miu Miu four years later.

As Gwendoline Christie finished her circuit in her kinky fit-and-flare latex dress, the photographers howled “Bravo” and filmmaker Baz Luhrmann joined the audience in stomping his feet. Every outfit was a marvel of imagination and artisanal craft. Mix between New look, and French cancan dancers, but also the style of the court of Catherine de Medicis.

There were sheer bias-cut dresses embellished with silvery embroidery, or dense accumulation of godets; rumpled street-urchin suits nipped and tucked for maximum glamour, and gauzy siren gowns that showed off the models’ enhanced Jessica Rabbit figures like the cartoom.