DIOR RETURN IN 1949

Saturday night, during the rise of the steps of the actress Natalie Portman in a dress from the archives of the house Dior. Between reinterpretation and iconic creation, we reveal the underside of this mythical dress.

And for good reason! This unique piece is a reinterpretation of a Dior model from the fall-winter 1949 Haute Couture collection.

This strapless dress, reworked for the occasion by the workshops of the house of Dior, is composed of tulle fully embroidered with sequins shaded.  Here is all the creativity of the Italian, take a vacation in Mexico and make a dress from the archives.
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MYSTERY HAS ALWAYS SURROUNDED CONSUMERS

There has always been a mystery surrounding consumers.In the $20 trillion U.S. economy, personal consumption expenditures account for 70.8 percent.Due to inflation rates, bank failures, and other factors, consumers are skittish right now.Retail’s leaders are left guessing where shoppers are and where they’re going.

Now is a great time to be a merchant. Consumers are spending more on food and consumables, which saw sales increase in the low double digits, while general merchandise sales declined in the mid-single digits.

Consumer shifts show just how fast retail is changing right now as consumers are changing dramatically.The good news here is that new shoppers seem to be sticking at least for the time being but the less good news is that their activity is mostly confined to staples and necessities.

There is a widespread sense that a tougher consumer environment is on the way. Even Johann Rupert, chairman of Cartier-parent Compagnie Financière Richemont, is looking for a volatile year ahead in the U.S. and described the Fed’s sudden move to higher interest rates as “reckless.”

“The United States will not be as buoyant as a year ago,” Rupert said last week. “Will it return?Consumers are spending more, but they may not be getting more, since inflation is at generational highs and eroding purchasing power.With luxury continuing to thrive while economic concerns push more shoppers to the value channel, the space in between has only gotten trickier, with brands really having to stand out. Continue reading

CANNES IN VENISE WITH BVLGARI

Here Bulgari unveiled its latest high jewelry collection, Mediterranea, a tribute to the company’s origins, inspired by founder Sotirio Bulgari’s journey from Greece to Italy. During a conversation at Palazzo Soranzo Van Axel, a hidden gem in Venice, a private building dating back to the 15th century, where Bulgari set up a showroom to show off is collection.

This inclusivity was reflected by the brand ambassadors who attended the show for press and American clients on Tuesday evening, held at the city’s Palazzo Ducale, including Lisa of Blackpink, Zendaya, Anne Hathaway, Priyanka Chopra Jonas, Crystal Liu, Hikari Mori, Yang Yang and Lashana Lynch.

In 2023, Bulgari held its event in Venice, as the crossroads of Mediterranean influences, “where the Roman Byzantine Empire fused with the Roman Western Empire to give rise to inclusive and unrivaled arts and architecture.”

VALENTINO RETURNS TO ITALY

Dubbed Valentino The Narratives, the show will take place on June 16 at 2 p.m. at the Università degli Studi di Milano Statale. The event will kick off Milan Fashion Week, which runs through June 20.

While the women’s and couture collections are traditionally unveiled in Paris, this is actually a return to the roots, since founder Valentino Garavani presented his first men’s show in Milan in January 1985. No more Paris and its traffic jams.

In 2022, the house launched Valentino House Essentials, a selection of timeless but ever-changing staples that serve as codes for Piccioli’s creative vision, and the project will continue this year.

Other luxury brands, from Gucci to Versace to Givenchy to Moschino, have moved away from the mixed-use format, where women’s clothing often distracts from men’s clothing. It’s likely to move away from Paris Fashion week as well.

CHANEL IN HOLLYWOOD

Coco Chanel was invited by Samuel Goldwyn to add glamour to the flagging film industry by creating costumes for his United Artists studio.

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LUXURY CRITIC, WHERE ARE YOU?

They are called the “Employees of Fear” and it is the lord of the Arnault family who sets the tone with the man from Toledo and his Marand who takes the “Edict of Nantes” for an English woman. But, can we criticize luxury today? Are there still critics in this profession? Because the luxury industries frame journalists and influencers by putting them under a drip of money, paying a salary to these “Dubaï-Brother”,

For my part, I only met tireless scribblers who lived off the brands, fake talents metaphorizing sclerotic words, never speaking with reflection but always with interest. Brands are content with little, because for them it is better to have a good jack who can be bent over and over again, than a dodgy smelling chief who might drop a truth in a moment’s lapse.

If you criticize these groups, and even if this criticism is constructive, they systematically blacklist you to relegate you to the bottom of their cesspool, a sort of luxury purgatory where you have to get down on your knees to show your allegiance before reaching paradise, a compulsory four-legged as a sign of submission.

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CHANEL MUSE BARBIE

On Tuesday night, Paris Hilton attended the Chanel 2024 collection fashion show in Los Angeles. She wore an openwork mesh dress and matching cardigan from the French brand. Chanel paired her Barbie-inspired pink ensemble with a matching tweed bag, cream patent leather heels and layered pearl necklaces.

Her blonde hair was styled with a pink bow. Hilton’s makeup included white eyeshadow, pink glossy lips and a touch of chanel blush of course. At the after party, Hilton showed off her DJ skills. She shared videos of the event on her Instagram story, dancing with actress and Chanel muse Marion Cotillard.

She and husband Carter Reum welcomed their first child via surrogate in January. An heir for the hotel group. Hilton released her third book in March. “Paris: The Memoir” became a New York Times bestseller. This confirms that Americans have no culture!

In Los Angeles, where the Writers Guild of America is on strike, Chanel held its fashion show at Paramount Studios. Designed by creative director Virginie Viard, the event featured Sofia Richie, Lil Nas X, Margot Robbie and Elle Fanning, to name a few.

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DIOR CRUISE IN MEXICO

After its pre-fall show in Mumbai in March, the French fashion house revealed that it will unveil its 2024 cruise collection in Mexico City on May 20. Probably the house had not yet used all its carbon tax.

Maria Grazia will therefore continue its tradition of collaborating with and copying local artisans.Through this exciting dialogue, the artistic director will highlight the art and some emblematic figures of this country dear to the heart of Dior since the beginnings of the house in 1947, said the brand in a statement. Jacquemus’ big hat popularized by Pancho Villa. Immersion in the heart of the mythical couple Frida & Diego who formed in the 1930s, the most iconic couple in the history of Mexican art.

But also Porfirio Diaz, former head of state, who built many buildings and reorganized the city into neighborhoods. It is in the one of the “Roma” that he impels real changes with a very innovative architecture for the time and the Roman will take us there.For a Fashion the Ruins of Calakmul a must in perspective.

Pancho Villa était connu comme l’un des meilleurs cavaliers de son temps. On l’appelait pour cette raison « Le Centaure du Nord ». Maria aura lu le “CentDior du Nord “.
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BEST-DRESS AT THE CORONATION

The three best-dressed guests at the coronation of King Charles III.Parisian chic was infused into the coronation by Brigitte Macron, who attended with her husband, French President Emmanuel Macron. A pastel pink midi dress and matching Louis Vuitton coat completed her look.

Pippa Middleton, the younger sister of the Princess of Wales, chose a pastel yellow coat dress by British brand Claire Mischevani. She paired it with a matching hat.

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LIPA NAR AND DONATELLA LIPSTICK

Donatella Versace is not at her first collaboration with young or more established designers, from Christopher Kane to Kim Jones, but never with a youTuber the Dua Lipa, for a collection of fashion (THAT KNOWS NOTHING ABOUT COUTURE ONE MORE) Albanian singer whose name means “love” in Albanian a good program for Dona.

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WEST DOES NOT PAY HER BILLS

Kanye West and his fashion brand Yeezy have been ordered to pay more than $300,000 to Brooklyn, New York-based creative Katelyn Mooney after failing to appear in court. After Pharells Williams the Xerox now West the swindler. The French brands have to be careful with these pseudo designers.

Manhattan Supreme Court Judge Gerald Lebovits issued a default judgment in Mooney’s favor on Monday, after no lawyer for West or Yeezy was entered on the docket for the fashion line and it never responded to court papers.

According to court documents, Mooney was hired by West on Sept. 11 as an independent contractor to produce a shoot on Sept. 13 for Yeezy’s new line of SHDZ sunglasses for an agreed amount of $110,000.

The complaint stated that Mooney was hired to be fully responsible for every aspect of the photo shoot, including but not limited to hiring models, reserving studio space, procuring lighting, catering, pre-production and post-production. Continue reading

PINAULT STARVES TO DEATH

In the wake of Balenciaga’s ad scandal, a portion of Kering chairman and chief executive officer François-Henri Pinault’s pay will be indexed on the French luxury group’s efforts to protect the reputation of its brands.  Perhaps there should also be a sanction for parents who merchandise their children.

Speaking at the group’s annual general meeting in Paris on Thursday, Véronique Weill, an independent board director at Kering, said it was one of two new criteria determining the variable salary of the group’s top two executives, Pinault and group managing director Jean-François Palus, in 2023. Another new element is linked to the reduction of the group’s carbon footprint, Weill said.

Addressing the situation on Thursday, Pinault took responsibility for the error, but emphasized that Kering’s brands are bigger than the inviduals who run them.

Balenciaga triggered outrage with two ad campaigns in November, the effects of which continue to impact the revenues of Kering’s “other houses” division, which recorded a 9 percent sales decline in the first quarter.

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NEW ICONS AT DIOR

The official NewJeans Instagram account announces Haerin’s appointment as Dior’s global Ambassador for jewellery, fashion and beauty.

The 16-year-old member of K-pop girl group NewJeans has been chosen as luxury ambassador. Chanel snagged member Minji, Gucci and Armani Beauty are working with Hanni. Burberry and YSL Beauty has Danielle, and Hyein is with Louis Vuitton.

We hope that they have a badge of unaccompanied minors and maybe it is the new mission of Sydney to care on the group of 16th years old girls.

The singer and Dior have privileged ties that are stronger than ever. Between elegance and audacity, a unique friendship in the name of creativity,” Dior said in a statement.

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GO FORD-WARD

It’s the end of the shows for Tom Ford. The designer has just released his latest women’s ready-to-wear collection for fall on his website, featuring his favorite looks from the past 13 years.The cult of personality like Karl without the talent

Ford orchestrated his release in cinematic fashion, animating his models in glass cases as if they were mannequins in a museum exhibit, and standing in front like a conductor. A sort of Karl of the poor, he will make collections with his trainees, and after the first two nothing more.

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JOHN QUITS CHANEL

John Galantic, president and chief operating officer of Chanel Inc., is stepping down from his role.

Galantic’s resignation was announced internally last Wednesday. His plans were not available for comment Monday. Through initiatives such as Sunrun, Chanel Community, and the Racial Justice Fund, Galantic drove sustainability and social commitment.

Alain Wertheimer, global executive chairman of Chanel, and Leena Nair, global chief executive officer, emailed a letter to employees last week, noting that under Galantic’s leadership, the U.S. achieved its highest ever Voice of Client scores and gained in brand equity results. Galantic has been a director at Bacardi, and a non-executive director at Ferrari. Bernard Arnault is looking for directors for his 500 billion euro group.

A PANDA AGAINST A VUITTON

Lord Arnault met with Wang Wentao, Chinese Minister of Commerce. This is starting to look messy after the French President’s controversial visit to Dior on Avenue Montaigne in Paris just after the man, who passed Normal Sup. three times, finished his visit to China earlier this month. But, this lady of the Elysée, who is dressed by the group, might be “enjoying” it!

The luxury group has old and intense links with the communist party, and in Luxury, to reach what you want to achieve, will owe you all the vileness of the world. For me, a hint of freedom will never be freedom, but the new rich decorate their contemporary cave with the trappings of a squire, and in the end, the only thing bohemian owns are their tableware. In Jean Yanne’s film, “Les Chinois à Paris”, he doesn’t really make fun of the Chinese, but more of the French, of their past close to collaboration and of the intellectual fashions of the time for the naive and unmeasured infatuation of many French intellectuals for Marxism-Leninism, very “Montant”!

I am a man slightly living in a heavily compromised world, and while Wang congratulates himself on the strength and diversity of the commitment of the world’s largest luxury group in China, I only see the commercial exchanges of a waxed canvas bag for two Pandas at the Beauval Zoo, a real cultural compromise, indeed! Continue reading

THE FASHION GAME IN 2024

Bruno Pavlovsky, president of the Federation of Haute Couture and Fashion, and Pascal Morand, its executive chairman, detailed some of the measures taken by the organization to preserve its schedule from the disruptions expected from the Games, which will monopolize the city’s venues and security forces for several months.

There will be two Olympic Games in 2024, the Olympic Games from July 26 to August 11 and the Paralympic Games from August 28 to September 8, 2024. Next summer, the federation is working with the authorities to identify 200 spaces that usually host fashion events.

Men’s fashion weeks will be held Jan. 16-21 and June 18-23; women’s fashion weeks will be held Feb. 26-March 5 and Sept. 23-Oct. 1; haute couture shows are scheduled for Jan. 22-25 and June 24-27.

Chanel, the only private sponsor of the Grand Palais renovation, will not return until October 2024. For now, the French fashion industry is not expected to be involved in the opening ceremony.

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LVMH SHARESOLDIERS

Sidney Toledano, chairman and CEO of LVMH Moet Hennessy Louis Vuitton, is moving on to another role within the French luxury group LVMH. The same old story: the people who go up are the same people you see when they come down.

At the annual shareholders meeting, Mr. Arnault was pleased to thank Mr. Toledano for his leadership over the past three decades at LVMH.

“I wanted to highlight the exceptional work he has done. He is not leaving. He will be moving on to other roles,” Arnault said. I had the feeling that I was in the serie of Trumps “the Apprentice” and the director says to sydney, you are fired.

“We will continue to work together in a different setting. I won’t say any more about it, but I’ll tell you about it anyway next year. A big thank you, Sidney, for the great job you’ve done over the years,” BLA BLA BLA BLA BLA.

An independent news site reported that Michael Burke, another veteran LVMH executive, was the favorite to succeed Mr. Toledano as head of the Fashion Group. Mr. Toledano’s successor will be announced in the coming months, but the decision has not yet been made. Continue reading