MUGLER MIDNIGHT IN PARIS

Mugler, the French house, plans to return to the Paris runway on Jan. 26 with a stronger presence. It has scheduled a presentation for 8 p.m. on Jan. 26 at La Villette, a vast cultural complex on the northeastern edge of Paris will parade a see now, buy now collection.

Paris couture week runs from Jan. 23 to 26 this season, and there are always a few ready-to-wear events at either end of the schedule. An immersive experience across all channels, and in front of a live audience, is what Mugler offers as a new concept. Mugler’s last live runway show was for fall 2020.

During lockdowns, Cadwallader produced three fast-paced films featuring special effects; fierce, body-baring fashions, and cameos from Megan Thee Stallion, Chloë Sevigny, Hunter Schafer and Shalom Harlow.

As the designer reflected on the power of film to engage wider audiences, he expressed some hesitation about returning to a simple runway show after the trilogy ended. Mugler has always been a popular brand and we didn’t want to keep the show only for the happy few, he added. Continue reading

L’ACOSTE GLOBE-TROTTER

After four years as Lacoste’s creative director, Louis Trotter is stepping down. In addition to directing the fashion show and general collections, Trotter contributed to the company’s shift toward women’s wear, lauding her “real consistency” in creating the company’s overall line.

She had joined the company in 2018, showing her first collection in February 2019 during Paris Fashion Week. Thierry Guibert praised Trotter’s creativity and commitment, as well as her contribution to Lacoste’s legacy.

Lacoste’s executive had noted Trotter’s contribution to the brand’s enduring sports casual identity during the opening of its Champs-Elysées flagship. An intimate presentation in Paris showcased her latest designs. In spring 2023, they will be available for purchase.

Lacoste is rethinking its creative approach, stating that it will take the form of “a collaborative studio model focused on a collective vision.” The brand will also be celebrating its 90th anniversary in 2023.

FURS FOR BIMBOS IT IS OVER

Days before the end of 2022, a pop-up store displayed sable, chinchilla, mink, fox and other furs for 75 percent off.

Furs last retail outlet in California was the high-end Beverly Center, a large shopping complex adjacent to Beverly Hills. The shopping center was trying to sell as much merchandise as possible before the California Legislature passed a statewide fur ban on Jan.

Bimbos have been buying our furs here for years at 25 degrees, and this has killed our business. Fur opponents have spent years slowly whittling away at California’s fur business, and they win.

THEY QUIT THE FASHION INDUSTRY

In November, Alessandro Michele bowed out as creative director of Gucci, stating that “there are times when paths part ways because of the different perspectives each one of us may have. Revenue at Gucci almost tripled during this seven-year tenure, from roughly $4 billion in 2015 to $10 billion in 2021 (27 billion RMB to 69 billion RMB) And no sale in the boujtique !

In December, Miuccia Prada and her husband Patrizio Bertelli resigned as co-CEOs of the Italian luxury fashion house group.

After a star-studded presentation of its Spring 23 collection, British luxury brand Burberry announced that its chief creative officer Riccardo Tisci would step down by the end of September.

In August, Kasper Rørsted announced he would be leaving his CEO post at the end of the year, well before his contract expires in 2026.  The news came shortly after Rørsted stated in an interview that “we made mistakes in China,” which quickly dominated global headlines and became a trending topic on Weibo. Indeed, Adidas has faced an onslaught of challenges since the pandemic.

Continue reading

A DRAG QUEEN FACTORY

As part of its commitment to supporting emerging talents, AZ Factory is hosting an event during Paris Couture Week to showcase the work of Tennessy Thoreson, a recent fashion school graduate.

Having pivoted to a platform for collaborations with guest creatives, or “amigos,” following the untimely death of its founder Alber Elbaz in 2021, AZ Factory is set to present what it bills as a “theatrical show” on Jan. 23 featuring 12 looks by Thoreson inspired.

Mauro Grimaldi met Thoreson at the Geneva University of Art and Design (HEAD) in November 2021, where Thoreson won both the Eyes on Talents award and the bachelor Bongénie Prize.

A member of the drag community, Thoreson exemplifies the ethos of smart fashion at AZ Factory. The designs will be available for custom order, with fittings to be held at AZ Factory’s Paris atelier at Fondation Cartier.

COMPLETELY TIK LOCK

Blackpink’s Rosé the pop star, who has been an official ambassador for Tiffany since April 2021, will appear in images featuring new Lock designs as the collection begins an expansion beyond bracelets and into earrings, rings and necklaces.

It is understood that Blackpink’s contract with its record label YG is set to end in mid-2023 and it’s unclear if the group will sign an extension and if Tiffany’s contract with Rosé is contingent on her status with YG.

The record group’s relationship with Tiffany holding company LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton is a lucrative one beyond Rosé’s contract with Tiffany, fellow group member Lisa has contracts with Celine and Bulgari and Jisoo is in contract with Christian Dior.

Rosé’s Lock; campaign is representative of Tiffany’s investment in what it sees as a new marquee product line.The new designs are expected in stores this month with prices ranging from $4,800 to $20,000.

CHAMPAGNE FOR CHRISTMAS

Artémis Domaines, the wine company of billionaire François Pinault, has acquired the champagne house Jacquesson, it announced Tuesday in a statement. The billionaire’s company, which already owns Château Latour wine and Henriot champagne among others, becomes “the sole shareholder” of the Jacquesson house, in which it had been a minority shareholder since February 2022, the statement said.

Jacquesson, founded in Dizy, Champagne, was previously owned by the Chiquet family, which acquired it in 1974. The estate covers 40 hectares and produces 300,000 bottles per year. Jean Garandeau, general manager of the Jacquesson house since September 2022, retains his steering. Jean-Hervé Chiquet, the former owner, will continue to sit on the board of directors of the house.

Continue reading

THE BLOND STORM

Lan Griffiths the designer revved up the house’s signature styles by referencing the ultimate icon, Marilyn Monroe. Not that the actress was a new inspiration in fashion or for Griffiths she’s already infused the brand’s narrative twice in the past but her influence is constantly revamped, and most recently by Ana de Armas’ interpretation in the “Blonde” movie.

Continue reading

FASHION IN PARIS AND NETFLIX

According to the provisional calendar released Friday by the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode, all 81 events at Paris Men’s Week in Fall 2023 will be physical. Between Jan. 17 and Jan. 22, 48 shows and 33 presentations will unveil the men’s wear collections.

Saint Laurent will return to Paris on January 17 with its men’s collection show at 9 p.m. Anthony Vaccarello has shown his menswear designs in Marrakech, Jersey City, New Jersey, Venice, Italy, and Malibu.

It had been more than a year since Maison Margiela has shown a men’s collection, the first and only Artisanal collection to date by John Galliano. Its show will take place on Jan. 22 at 8 p.m.

The fashion week cornerstones are settling back into familiar positions with Rick Owens and Louis Vuitton on Jan 19 at 12:30 p.m. and 2:30 p.m., Dior Homme the next day at 2:30 p.m., and Hermès on Saturday at 3 p.m.

Emily Bode will join Emily in Paris in January. The six-year-old brand announced on Wednesday that it would return to the official Paris menswear calendar this season with a show scheduled for 6:30 p.m. on Jan. 21. Normal for the new president confusing couture and Netflix series, he thinks that the creator of the dumbest series in the world deserves an advertisement to change the image of France by stupid French fashion people. I am willing to bet that there will be Nodelato shoes in the serie. Continue reading

CHRISTENSEN IS SO SLOW

Tuesday night, Helena Christensen joined Dodiee founder Elisa Dahan at the label’s pop-up store in New York’s SoHo for a low-key cocktail party, not secret.

Christensen said she loves Dodiee because it enhances women’s curves. Choosing a body-hugging black knit dress with an open back for the cocktail party was not without irony.

The fact that I ended up wearing something black is funny. I am a very colorful person.

I usually never wear black. People are surprised when I do. Lavender is my favorite color. Hot pink? Yes! Also, the neon lime green is a very bold color to use in a collection and using it in curvaceous designs is a very bold, cool way to show off a woman’s body,” she said of the Dodiee line. Like what, you can be, and go to a party in Soho and not have anything to say! That’s The Way It Is…

HOUSE OF ROLEX AND CHANEL

By getting closer to the Rolex group, the Franco-British luxury group Chanel is taking a stake in the company Kenissi. A terse piece of information within the watchmaking profession, for a small earthquake in the Swiss watch industry. Although it may seem insignificant, this announcement takes on its full meaning when you know that Kenissi is the industrial arm of Tudor, the second brand in the Rolex group. This news is the result of a merger between two of the most important independent players in the global luxury industry.

Chanel continues to strengthen its position as a player in the prestige watch industry by taking a stake in this new Swiss manufacturer of automatic movements, and so the Wertheimers, without giving any figures or details, are getting up to speed.

Kenissi is a name that means almpost nothing for Beotians. It is in fact the Gemini project, as it was nicknamed by its initiators in the greatest secrecy, which will see the birth of a factory of about 150 meters long divided in two parts. One for Tudor, the other for Kenissi. The former vice-president of Breitling Jean-Paul Girardin will be in charge of the management of the factory and, more broadly, of Kenissi.

Continue reading

JACQUEMUS DISCOVERS RAPHIA

This is my last show,” Simon Porte Jacquemus announced solemnly but unfortunately it was a joke. Raphia (raphias, a word of Malagasy origin attested in 1652) is a genus of palm trees of the Arecaceae family that can be found in swampy environments and along rivers. This may be a confusion between Malagasy, and malvoisies.

Monocarpic plant or hapaxanthe (the stem dies after the fruiting like the nun’s broom, but the roots remain alive, emitting new shoots), perfect plant for fashion but already used by Franck Sorbier a long time ago, so nothing new under the sun.

Continue reading

PUCCI PACKAGE SKI

Over a three-day experience here, Emilio Pucci’s artistic director, who unveiled the Pucci x Fusalp collection, explained, in an interview at Badrutt’s Palace Hotel, that she had known since Day One that she wanted to do a skiwear collection, despite the fact that it’s totally connected to the brand’s lifestyle philosophy. Continue reading

THE DAKAR NOIR OF CHANEL

A stunning collection, in three-day program of cultural events in Dakar Senegal marked Chanel’s first fashion show in sub-Saharan Africa, unveiling its Métiers d’Art collection on Tuesday.

Princess Caroline of Monaco and her daughter Charlotte Casiraghi attended the show along with Pharrell Williams, Naomi Campbell, Whitney Peak, and Nile Rodgers.

70s-inspired pantsuits topped with beaded vests and skirts in geometric motifs that nodded to the flamboyant Congolese style subculture of the sapeurs. The lineup, which included flared jeans, platform shoes and tiered skirts, was greeted with a roar of approval from the 850 guests in attendance.

It was a potentially perilous exercise for the French luxury brand, which sought to deflect any accusations of cultural appropriation by inviting a host of local creatives to cooperate on the event, as well as unveiling a series of long-term initiatives to promote craftsmanship and sustainable farming, including the first overseas exhibition by its 19M specialty workshop hub in Paris. Chanel finds the coridor of the lord to represent the Afro Europeans. Very intelligent but it does not deceive anyone.

GUCCI RENAME SEASONS

On Tuesday, Gucci announced its cruise 2024 show will take place in South Korea on May 15, kicking off Milan’s fashion week in January. Until a new creative organization is revealed after the departure of Alessandro Michele last month, Gucci’s design office will continue to steer the house forward.

It marks Gucci’s 25th anniversary in South Korea since its first flagship opened in Seoul in 1998. A 1395 Seoul landmark, also known as The Palace Greatly Blessed by Heaven and built during the Joseon dynasty, was the setting for Gucci’s Cosmogonie show, a repeat performance of its collection unveiled in Apulia last May.

On Nov. 1, Gucci CEO Marco Bizzarri and Choi Eung-Cheon, South Korea’s head of cultural heritage, signed an agreement to preserve the palace. Continue reading

DEATH AFTER THE NILE

Fashion journalist for fifty years, half of which she spent at the French Figaro since 1979. She was the first to have interviewed Yves Saint-Laurent, Normal when you are the only fashion journalist in Paris, and the first was Pierre Berger.

She had lunch at Maxim’s and at the Elysée Palace with the Queen of England, met Luciano Pavarotti, dared to ask Karl Lagerfeld for an account, stayed in Miami with Gianni Versace, discovered the secret Tangier of Jean-Louis Scherrer, and and its tax audi.

Her life merges with the great moments of a half-century of fashion, parties, launches, crossed by leading personalities that she had the privilege to approach and tell.

Viperous articles fiellently distilled on Fashion show of the small and without rank to praise the brand that made her gifts. Lost Illusions of Honorés de Balzac has it all alone. She said of Jacques Mouclier to please Pierre Berger, that he was an civik servant of the crystal.

Continue reading

A NECROPLOLIS FOR DIOR

At the Grand Egyptian Museum near Cairo, Dior held a preview event for its pre-fall menswear show, set to take place before the pyramids of Giza.

An imposing statue of Ramesses II dominates the entrance hall of the imposing building in which Dior Tears, a capsule collection designed by Denim Tears creative director Tremaine Emory, was presented on Friday night. Continue reading