HAIDER ACKERMAN AND JEAN PIPOL

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Haider Ackermann still remembers its sublime chic. Or how they can take a blind designer hostage .

Gaultier remembers reading in Le Figaro about a hot new Belgian designer named Haider and being dazzled by his sophisticated colors and unexpected silhouettes, finally someone else to copy.

Seated opposite each other on black sofas in Jean Paul Gaultier’s couture salon designed by Philippe Starck, the two men shared a laugh for the photos. Ackermann put in a plug for Marina Yee, one of the lesser-known of the Antwerp Six that put the small Belgian city on the international fashion radar in fashion.

For his part, Ackermann said Gaultier opened his mind also because he pushed the envelop in culture and society. Not open only the mind blows me my assistant !

ZARA SECOND HAND AHEAD

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With over 670,000 listings across major resale platforms, charity-linked discount finder Savoo identified Zara as the most popular secondhand brand. Aside from Nike, Adidas, H&M, Victoria’s Secret, Asos, Levi’s, Louis Vuitton, Gucci and Chanel, other brands with high listings volumes are Nike, Adidas, H&M, Victoria’s Secret and H&M. Continue reading →

RENATO BALESTRA PASSED AWAY

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Renato Balestra, the dean of Italian couture, died in Rome on Saturday, age 98. After an apprenticeship with Jole Veneziani in 1959, he opened his first atelier in Rome, where the company is still based today.

Having come from a family of architects and engineers, he stood out for his artistic ability and was considered the “painter of fashion.” Known for his signature painterly embroidery and blend of fabrics and transparencies, his name was associated with a distinctive color Balestra blue.

Balestra designed exclusive collections for Isetan in Tokyo as well as Saks Fifth Avenue, Bergdorf Goodman, Foley’s, Neiman Marcus and Lord Taylor. In 1970, he included men’s looks in a women’s fashion show a pioneer in creating unisex collections on coed catwalks.

His brand was relaunched earlier this year with a new course set by his granddaughter, Sofia Bertolli Balestra, with a first ready-to-wear collection presented in February during Milan Fashion Week. Renamed simply Balestra, the logo revisits the hand-drawn version designed by the founder in 1971 and appears in his signature color.

The brand remains privately owned by the family, with the founder’s daughters Fabiana Sofia’s mother and Federica Balestra at the head of the fashion house.”

FM

AVATAR ZOE IN FASHION

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She is probably best known for “Avatar,” the James Cameron epic that became the biggest movie of all time in 2009. But she’s also part of “Avengers” and “Star Trek”. She has become one of the highest-grossing actresses in today’s movies.

It’s naturally an entirely different world 13 years after the first “Avatar” movie was released, and the moment of course leads to reflection on how Saldaña’s life and career have changed in that time.

At a certain point, even being an action star begins to feel like riding a bicycle, and Saldaña is now in her moment of seeking out discomfort. Whjy not Fashion ?

Monot’s polyester dress. Boucheron Maillons necklace, from Paris, Vu du 26 high jewelry collection, set with quartz, pavéd with diamonds, on yellow gold; Vendorafa 18-karat yellow gold dome ring; Bulgari Serpenti Viper ring in 18k yellow gold with diamonds; David Yurman ring in 18k yellow gold with pavé diamonds; Anita Ko gold ring; Delfina Delettrez 18k gold, white diamond and akoya pearl ring; Hamilton Jewelers 18k rose gold ring; Saldaña’s own gold ring, worn throughout. Continue reading →

ALESSANDRO MICHELE QUIT GUCCI

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Is Gucci about to undergo a major transformation? Alessandro Michele is leaving the brand as creative director. According to a source who spoke anonymously, Michele “was asked to initiate a strong design shift” to revitalize the brand, but she didn’t.

In the past, Pinault has shaken up one of Kering’s key brands. In a surprise move last November, Pinault fired Daniel Lee from Bottega Veneta, despite his strong performance and critical acclaim.

Matthieu Blazy, who worked in Bottega’s studio before becoming creative director at Burberry, succeeded Lee at the brand. The artisanal roots of the brand have been returned by Blazy in just two seasons.

Continue reading →

RAF SIMONS FINALLY QUITS FASHION

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The Spring Summer 2023 collection is a conclusion of an extraordinary of 27 years journey and the final season of the Raf Simons’ Fashion brand. That was on the Raf Simons’s Instagram today.

Raf Simons has finally discovered that he has no talent to be a fashion designer. He said to his team: “Thank you all for believing in our vision and in me.” And if he had to tell the press something, he would surely say:

“Thank you for never having supported me” and I would have answered him: “If you had been a true designer we would probably have supported you.” Nevertheless, we wish you all the best for your retirement and you should know that we will not regret you. Same for your successor in dior Maria Grazzia.

This is the difference between a real designer and a fake one, the real one stays in his passion until his death. A Belgian story perhaps?

CHIVAS FOR A SHIVA

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Alcohol is brown but reddens the face, while yellow gold always blackens the heart.  A whiskey to start seeing double like Gucci or see blurred to appreciate the “Wonder Toy” fashion in David yellowstone. After Evian by Balmain, the house really needs cash flow, it must sell something! So Evian water for Qatar is still better than whiskey forbidden to Muslims. A “Shiva” or nothing had confused the designer, confusing Chivas and Shiva, the god of the destruction of illusion and ignorance: it suits him so well.

Rousteing is like this sultan, who betrayed by his companion, is persuaded of the infidelity of all men. So he swears to conquer one of them every night and to have his head cut off the next day. For three years, this barbarism consumes the city, and to stop the course of this gay genocide, Whisky’s “Shérazade” proposes marriage to him, much to his father’s dismay.

But the son of the Vizir has more than one tale in his bag, and night after night, he maintains the interest of the king of kings of Quatar, he tells him that he was a dressmaker in another world, thus transforming Pierre Balmain into Pierre I’m no coward. What finally “turlute pine” him now is to be put in a coffin without alcove … Especially in case of sudden death! No ?

FASHION UNDER COVER

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Between the official sponsors of the soccer world cup and the vertigo of endless wealth,  they are torn between their will to shine without alienating dictatorships, with the risk of scratching their image by associating themselves with a world cup truly tainted with accusations that hint at the trampling of Human Rights. But, in the world of fashion, we are used to these counterfeit humans, and they perform daily a balancing act so perfect.

RICHEMOND AND THE LORD

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The answer is hard to determine, say principals at Compagnie Financière Richemont. Consumer behavior is still impacted by COVID-19, China remains volatile, and U.S. growth is slowing.  Are storm clouds gathering over luxury?

The demand for high-end watches, jewelry, and accessories remains robust, resulting in solid results for the first half of the fiscal year. Richemont’s sales increased 24 percent to 9.68 billion euros at actual exchange rates, and its profit from continuing operations increased 40 percent to 2.11 billion euros.

On Friday, Richemont’s shares surged more than 10 percent to close at 118.10 Swiss francs.One thing is certain: COVID-19 continues to change consumption patterns worldwide, for better and for worse. Richemont managers discussed volatility and a lack of visibility in the market.

In fact, Richemont says consumption patterns have changed so dramatically since COVID-19 that no single geography is driving revenue or dominating the balance sheet. Continue reading →

DIOR AND SANTA CLOSE

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Harrods is transforming into a gingerbread world as Dior takes over its flagship store with a larger-than-life holiday takeover. In the absence of Santa’s Grotto at Harrods this year, who needs the North Pole contingent anyway?

There has never been a collaboration between Dior and a department store of this scale before, and this is Harrods’ largest brand takeover. A warm cookie brown, caramel, cinnamon and powdered sugar white replace the season’s usual red and green hues inside and outside Dior’s stores.

Christian Dior’s life and the evolution of the couture house are traced through an immersive experience. There is a 17-meter-high mega-star above the Brompton Road entrance, which is part of a lavish 3D display inspired by sketches by Roman artist Pietro Ruffo for the Dior cruise 2023 collection.

UOTANI TIME TO GO

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Shiseido’s president and CEO Masahiko Uotani announced succession plans on Thursday that will see him step down within two years. As of Jan. 1, Uotami’s role will change to representative director, chairman and CEO, while Kentaro Fujiwara will assume the position of president and chief operating officer.

“Fujiwara and I will work closely together for two years managing the company jointly, and then we will see what happens after that. I don’t want to just pass the baton on suddenly,” Uotani said. 

Shiseido’s business grew 19 percent on a like-for-like basis in 2021, despite continued lockdowns in China. The growth of the business in China has been a cornerstone of Uotani’s globalization strategy. Continue reading →

FERRAGAMO OR FERRAGAME ON

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Marco Gobbetti has full confidence in Maximilian Davis’ design skills as he leads the Ferragamo turnaround. During the first nine months of the year, it has reached a 17.2% increase in revenues, the chief executive officer and general manager touted the success of Davis’ first collection, shown in Milan last September for spring 2023.

His style is now out in the open, he is an elegant designer, his clothes are elegant, and they have a high component of sexiness, said Gobbetti of Davis, who was appointed creative director of Ferragamo in March.

Gobbetti trumpeted continued growth in revenues in the third quarter, “ensuring especially the quality of sales throughout all our distribution channels” at full price. “We delivered progress in our operating profit and cash flow for the first nine months, while implementing the planned increase of marketing and communication expenses.

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MUGLER IN SELFRIDGES

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With Body Spaces, French luxury brand Mugler will take over Selfridges Corner Shop until December. The brand’s fall 2022 and spring 2023 collections, along with festive gifts, will be featured in the space, along with its signature scents Angel, Alien and Alien Goddess.

In partnership with Random Studio, The Corner Shop features reflective silver surface sculptures depicting the contours of the human body. The brand has never set up an immersive pop-up before. It’s a unique approach that is accompanied by a strong architectural gesture.

Chrome hues will be available in a limited number of fragrances. Mugler is offering 30 hand-blown, hand-sculpted bottle variations of Angel, one of Mugler’s bestselling fragrances.

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FRANCOIS BAUFUMÉ PASSED AWAY

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French fashion executive François Baufumé the Kenzo and Christian Dior Couture businesses in the 80 and & 90 died suddenly on Friday in Saint-Jean-de-Luz at age 77.

Services are scheduled for Wednesday in Urrugne, France, according to a family announcement signed by his two daughters. He was a visionary, who recently stepped down as president of the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode.

A great and bold entrepreneur, an outstanding executive and a charismatic leader, and despite his famous temper tantrums, he was a very warm and endearing character who knew how to enjoy life.

He built Kenzo into a fashion and perfume company with combined sales of roughly $150 million by 1992, extending the brand into menswear, jeans and childrenswear, and opening many key boutiques.

Continue reading →