It’s beautiful this collection with the models practically floating on the runway of the theater of the palace of Giorgio Armani, via Borgonuovo.
GUCCI GALA IN L.A
TOM CATCH ME IF YOU CAN KERING
A deal to buy U.S. fashion brand Tom Ford from the American designer is said to be in advanced stages between Kering, the French luxury giant that owns Gucci. Estée Lauder, who is also rumored to be in the running to secure Tom Ford, is in a close race with Kering for Tom Ford.
A deal could be reached as soon as next week, according to sources. As of now, François-Henri Pinault’s luxury giant has yet to confirm any deal.
It will be the largest acquisition ever made 3 billion of dollard, it is possible that the price has fallen, given today’s precarious market environment and current geopolitical crisis, which has led to almost unprecedented inflationary pressures and dramatically increased procurement costs around the world.
However, Kering has been able to ride a sort of post-pandemic surge in sales, particularly across its Gucci, Saint Laurent and Balenciaga brands, as wealthy customers wanted revenge and a return to normality; those who have shown themselves to be more resilient, despite the exponential rise in inflation, and continue to purchase expensive clothes, bags, and watches.
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CELINE SPRING IN DECEMBER
Hedi Slimane may have been a little late unveiling Celine’s spring 2023 collection, but he will be way early with the collection he’s designing for fall 2024.
A fashion show will be held in Los Angeles, California, on Dec. 8 to unveil the fall 2023 collection over two months before New York, London, Milan, and Paris fashion weeks.
In the meantime, Celine’s spring 2023 collection will be showcased as a film to be streamed on its website and social media platforms sometime during November.
Filming for Celine’s spring 2023 collection took place in the south of France, but the exact timing and other details are not yet known. The exact location of Celine’s runway event in Los Angeles was not disclosed either.
Ralph Lauren, Dior, Louis Vuitton and Saint Laurent are among the brands that have mounted runway displays in California recently. Is Paris burning?
CHINA AND FRENCH BRANDS
For emerging designers and established brands alike, navigating China’s copyright protection system might seem like a daunting task. In China, your rights are protected as long as your trademark is registered. But in the U.S., Last month the French luxury label Louboutin successfully defended its red-sole stilettos from copycats without a trademark registration.
Article 6 of the Anti-Unfair Competition Law of China was readily applied because it addresses the scenario where the brand owner has not yet acquired a prior registered trademark in China.
Louboutin proved that its red sole shoes as a commodity and its sole red decoration have a high fame and influence in the market, and therefore protected its rights according to the Unfair Competition Law.
The rampage of bad-faith trademark squatters in the market, who are quick to snatch up any popular corporate names, signs and designs, then gain a profit from trademark buybacks, is another common issue that brands and creators face in the China market. Continue reading
BURBERRY LONDON 2023
ART AND HAUTE COUTURE
YE DON’T LIVE MATTER FOR ADDIDAS
“After a thorough review, the company has taken the decision to terminate the partnership with Ye immediately, end production of Yeezy branded products and stop all payments to Ye and his companies. Adidas will stop the Adidas Yeezy business with immediate effect,” it added.
The German sporting goods firm, which had come under growing pressure to renounce its seven-year partnership with the rapper formerly known as Kanye West.
It expects a short-term hit of up to 250 million euros to its net income as a result. Adidas does not tolerate antisemitism and any other sort of hate speech. Ye’s recent comments and actions have been unacceptable, hateful and dangerous, and they violate the company’s values of diversity and inclusion, mutual respect and fairness,” Adidas said in a statement.
A VAMPIRE AT DIOR’S
Dior’s spring pre-collection will be presented by Robert Pattinson. It was photographed by Rafael Pavarotti, with art direction by Ronnie Cooke Newhouse and styling by Melanie Ward and Ellie Grace Cumming.
Since 2013, Pattinson has been the face of Dior Homme. “Twilight” actor also appeared in Karl Lagerfeld’s spring 2017 and fall 2016 menswear campaigns for the French fashion house.
The actor read lines from Jack Kerouac’s work on the soundtrack of Dior’s pre-fall men’s fashion show in London last December, in addition to attending dozens of fashion shows over the years.
RIMOWA’S NEVER STILL
A series of celebrities, including Rihanna, Patti Smith, and other VIPs, are chosen as ambassadors for Rimowa’s “Never Still” campaign
In a short film format, the “Never Still” campaign of RIMOWA gives life to a new era of travel by taking into account the extremely personal perspectives of four global legends. In collaboration with four exceptional brand ambassadors, Rimowa encourages us to travel with a new spirit and new awareness: Rihanna, Patti Smith, LeBron James, and Roger Federer. Continue reading
KERING STELLAR GROWTH
Kering said sales increased by 14% in its third quarter, driven by strong results in Europe, although Gucci revenues lagged behind overall growth.
With the dollar strong in Europe and the Chinese market recovering from COVID-19 restrictions, luxury giants are disregarding concerns that the industry’s post-pandemic boom may cool.
With overall sales of 5.137 billion euros in the three months to September, Kering also benefited largely from that trend. Analysts had predicted a 12% increase on a comparable basis, which strips out currency fluctuations. However, Gucci’s sales grew by 9%, below a consensus forecast of 11%.
The label’s performance in China was “mixed” and “has yet to normalize,” said Kering’s finance chief Jean-Marc Duplaix. Following years of stellar growth, Gucci has underperformed rivals Louis Vuitton and Hermes in terms of its sales, which accounts for the bulk of profits at Kering. Too bad the turnover is not like Gucci’s collection this season, a double vision.
MARINO AN ARTCHITEC FOR HANDBAG
The pitch-black handbag, with leather straps, nail heads, and medieval-inspired hardware, is not a wussie bag, Peter Marino deadpanned about Louis Vuitton’s Artycapucines collection.
In a limited edition of 200, the handbag will be sold in Vuitton boutiques around the world by six contemporary artists. Each is priced at 8,000 euros.
Could it be a sculpture, or a handbag? he teased over the line from his New York office. I know at least three women who collect handbags and put them under glass.
At Paris+, the new art fair from Art Basel organizers, Vuitton will unveil its 2022 Artycapucines Collection. Vuitton has been appointed associate partner of the event, which runs from Oct. 20 to 22 at the Grand Palais Éphémère.
UK TAX FREE SHOPPING IS BACK
Within less than a month of announcing plans to restore tax-free shopping for international visitors, the British government has backed down. The return of tax-free shopping had been hailed by industry groups and luxury retailers as a way to boost tourism post-COVID-19 and help British luxury brands and retailers compete with their European counterparts.
With Jeremy Hunt as Chancellor of the Exchequer, that euphoria has dissipated as the country tries to generate as much tax income as possible to restore confidence in brand Britain. It is estimated that the new measures he announced will save the government 32 billion pounds per year.
After the speech, the pound rose by roughly 1 percent against the dollar, trading at $1.13. By late afternoon, it had risen to $1.14. Continue reading
RALPH LAUREN 2023
Thursday night at The Huntington Library, Art Museum and Botanical Gardens in the preppy Los Angeles suburb of San Marino, California. Ralph Lauren joined the luxury brand movement of destination shows, bringing his runway to the West Coast for the first time. Continue reading
ROKSANDA FASHION WEEK
SIMONS THE GATEWAY TO LONDON
The bar turned into a runway. Students, artists, designers, musicians, DJs, and fashion types all pressed together in the chaotic spirit of euphoria that Raf Simons wanted to whip up around the showing of his spring collection.
“I decided to come to London last year, because I felt the energy was incredible,” he said, while prepping a show at Printworks, a massive post-industrial newsprint factory
London, like the country, is a hurt animal, but it’s one that’s ready for release. Positives can be found within the negatives. He is probably talking about him hurt by the fashion Week in Paris and then in New York he is now trying London.
On tee shirts and dresses, he embedded prints of scrawled works by the late Ghent artist Philippe Vandenberg. I know his words are cruel, like, ‘Kill them all and dance,’ but he meant to kill things you’re doing creatively before moving on. Continue reading
FASHION FROM THE SUBURBS 93
She comes to make Paris Fashion Week look ridiculous, and so the doors of the suburbs open, those of the real suburbs, not those where we used to look for the sons of the bourgeoisie in order to make them look like little ruffians who come out of the mire of immigration in order to propel them into fashion. No, the real one, the one that creates, the one that is multi-cultural, the one that is not afraid to be in a multi-ethnic couple, the one of multiple confession.
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PRADA BREAKFAST AT TIPHANIE
In its first fine jewelry collection, Prada is breaking ground as the first global luxury brand to use 100 percent recycled gold. Featuring American poet and activist Amanda Gorman; American actor, model and singer-songwriter Maya Hawke; and Dutch-Korean-Canadian musician Somi Jeon, Prada’s campaign is being photographed by David Sims.
Classic portraits are juxtaposed with gold-gilded reflections for a visually strong and immediate campaign, recognizably different from others in the category.
At the core of the collection is Prada’s signature triangle motif, which harks back to the brand’s founder Mario Prada. the bimbos of the fashion week thought that the triangle was the representation of their sex !
BROWNE MASTER OF CFDDA
The Council of Fashion Designers of America has named Thom Browne its next chairman, effective Jan. 1. Browne will be tasked with overseeing the organization as it continues to undergo rapid changes.
Browne was unanimously elected to the position for a two-year term by the CFDA board. Tom Ford completed his three-year term as chairman at the end of May, and he is succeeded by the 57-year-old designer.
During his term Ford diversified the board; initiated new programs to help bring much-needed diversity, equity and inclusion to the fashion industry; worked with brands to provide access to hundreds of jobs, opportunities, and mentorships; and founded A Common Thread with Vogue, which provided over $5 million in relief aid to fashion businesses during the first two years of the pandemic.