RICHEMONT THE REVOLVING DOORS

Richemont revealed the two key appointments on Tuesday within hours of each other, Louis Ferla CEO of Cartier and Catherine Rénier CEO of Van Cleef and Arpels.

Ferla, currently head of Vacheron Constantin, will succeed Cyrille Vigneron as CEO of Cartier. Rénier, currently CEO of Jaeger-LeCoultre, will succeed Nicolas Bos, now CEO of Richemont, at the head of Van Cleef and Arpels.

The appointments come in a year of leadership change for Richemont, whose chairman and founder Johann Rupert is planning succession as a generation of senior executives reaches retirement age.

At Richemont, employees tend to retire between the ages of 63 and 65, although Rupert often likes to keep some as advisors or in one-off positions. Ferla, who will be 49 this year, is part of the new generation of top managers. Continue reading

ROBERT WUN 2024

Wun was born and raised in Hong Kong.He started to take an interest in fashion at the age of 11 after he “met a cool girl a few years older than me at my family’s church who started a course in fashion design”. Wun moved to London where he studied at London College of Fashion. He graduated in 2012. I call him the Jackson Pollock of fashion.

BALMAIN AND DISNEY

Olivier Rousteing certainly cannot identify with the main character of “The Lion King” but with the fashion Mickey absolutely. When he was a nine-year-old boy growing up with his adoptive parents in Bordeaux, France, he created his own kingdom, with the question of where are my parents?

To mark the 30th anniversary of “The Lion King”. One of the highest-grossing animated films of all time, chooses Balmain.

But making T-shirts and accessories is not fashion and this limited edition Disney x Balmain collection will be launched on July 8 on balmain.com and in the main Balmain boutiques, as well as Saks Beverly Hills and saks.com , or how Mr. Pierre Balmain’s image can be destroyed by transforming him into an American-style clown.

The Lion King”; talks about Africa, so it was like a reference to my own origins, Bordeaux Africa” ​​That must be cool for his adoptive parents!!! The story of the lion king of Bordeaux, and tomorrow Olivier “Rintintin”. Not king, completely kong.

BALENCIAGA THE GAZAR BAND

Eccentric fabric headwear like overturned basins which already adorned models from the 1950s, it’s a surreal mix between oversized sets with baggy pants for Californian prisoners and jackets tied at the waist. Elegantly gloved hands holding numbers like in Cristóbal’s time; it’s a little warmed up. But, as always, this ace illusionist manages to make the son of the Prince of Venice believe that this is sewing! Ultimately, its fashion is like its turnover, a pendulum that swings from one extreme to the other.

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ROLLAND’S SONG

To the music of “Paris by Night”, the man with the longest hair of Fashion Week, and also the most Middle Eastern of the French, created jewel dresses this season, a sort of mix between Tiffany which would be mated with a satin duchess having swallowed ostrich feathers. The Lebanese woman, next to me, smelled stronger than a Sephora store and was still re-perfuming, during this time and on stage, a dress by Sister Marie-Thérèse “a nun” which would have gone straight from the ‘Ronceveau and “Rolland” church. “the educated will understand.”

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DIOR ANCIENT GREECE

This season, the theme that Maria Grazia Chiuri has chosen is to highlight the relationship between the body, clothing and performance on a scaffolding of claims, as usual, ancient Greece or ancient grace? There is the question.

Already in 2022, she showed Dior at the Panathenaic Stadium in Athens with dresses traditionally worn by the women of ancient Greece, against a backdrop of futuristic sneakers or “sneakers”; modernity requires for the business of the lord of Arnault.

The designer gradually stripped her high-end collections of embroidery and ornaments, at the risk of disappointing journalists, who, in any case, disappeared from the guest lists, and who came for Couture week in Paris to admiring frothy princess dresses with extravagant trains à la Elie Saab.

This season, she used swimsuits as the basis for her loosely draped goddess dresses, adding mosaic embroidery for a touch of evening glamour, and a nod to mosaic designer Faith Ringgold, who died last April. With her hair slicked back, for models, Chiuri is usually close to the heritage of founder Christian Dior. On the other hand, this time, there were hardly any nods to the archives of the master of Granville, but the collection was more reminiscent of the dresses of Madame Alix Grès.

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DRIES VAN NOTEN 2025

Dries Van Noten retired from the runway Saturday night in Paris. He had vowed that his swan song wouldn't be a retrospective, and indeed he showed a newsy men’s collection for spring 2025, roughly 38 years after starting out After standing and cheering for as long as Van Noten lingered on the catwalk, which is not very long, guests poured into the backstage melee to discover an ebullient scene. Continue reading

OWENS THE WHITE FLAME OF AIR

Ten looks 20 times for a total of 200 models, a sort of grand mass at the Palais de Tokyo for a frenetic, bubbling, almost enraged Fury Road like a saga, giving an almost stroboscopic effect of white on white. Pharaoh Akhenaten was back or the fall of an inhuman society, characterized by the loss of its cultural identity and its socio-economic complexity, decline of a civilization between war, epidemics and depopulation. A society collapsed in on itself which once again becomes more primitive in its clothing.

Akhenaten and the cult of Aten, no other, in more than three millennia of ancient Egypt, will have left such a controversial trace as this Egyptian symbol. At the height of the power of the pyramids, the pharaoh, considered a heretic, triggered a true cultural and religious revolution which still fascinates today with its audacity and its mysteries. Owens projects himself into this vision so realistic, but so dark, that he will use white to make us understand the power of his reflection.

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DIOR A KIM CAT WALK

Dior and the symbolism of the cat! In Egyptian mythology, the goddess Bastet, daughter of the sun god Ra, is represented as a cat or a woman with the head of a cat; benevolent figure, protector of humanity and symbol of femininity. She is also known for her terrible anger. Could there be a hidden message for the Lord? The cat as a symbol for the Pharaoh of luxury! This is indeed a four-legged submission that will please the Lord. People are going to call me xenophobic, but I’m going to tell you a secret, it’s foreign to me.

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ISSEY MIYAKE LIKE THE WIND

The collection is inspired by the wind, the legendary Plissé Issey Miyake. Like the structure of a kite, some clothing also resembles the construction of a parachute.

Collection that was full of graceful and very wearable clothing, thus inspiring the name of the collection, “Up, Up and Away”.

Some looks featured plaid and then a distorted print, in orange, white and black, or yellow, navy and white. A yellow hooded jacket, slightly rounded, flared at the back like a cape.

This style of coat, without a hood, also appeared in a shorter version. Shorts or long pants in solid, fresh colors, like the Purple Rose of Cairo.

KIDILL PARIS 2025

The collections of the KIDILL brand, founded in 2014 by Hiroaki Sueyasu, mix Harajuku street style with the punk irreverence of the 90s. It is inspired by post-war zazou, thinking of bringing luxury to the crazy old Vivienne Westwood and the genius Alexander McQueen, but influenced by punk icons John Lydon (Sex Pistols) he keeps the pistols and leaves sex behind, like all the young people these days. Transgressive, sophisticated silhouettes for the Flop journalist, but nothing couture, not even in the cuts.

A mixture of Pierre Baltringue by Olivier Rousteing, like an abortion so difficult, Here is the fashion that the nouveau riche never buy, and so that you can, not shine in the mysteries of couture. Vestige of a revolution already passed for a dichotomy which causes a stupefication of the past without history, mixing a present without a future. Continue reading

VUITTON AND THE OLYMPIC FRAME

The artist kicked off Paris Men’s Fashion Week on Tuesday at UNESCO, and focused on the next Olympic Games following the Lord’s order. Pharrell Williams teaches us about his origins: Welcome “to Africa”, if you were blind, under the frightened eyes of Anna Wintour, who on Park Avenue had never seen a black man so ready.

Rather than a true hymn to sporting performance, the programming was a celebration of humanity for the LVMH group that seems above ground. Williams played with archetypes like the Diplomat, complete with ’70s richness, then beaded pajamas to lull us to sleep.

The “Happy” singer’s bright-toned silhouettes, including a selection of flocked, monogrammed and sparkling tracksuits, are sure to please French footballers Mbappé.

Finally, the only interesting thing about this collection was the music which sanctified the parade on a background more “God kalispel than “Gospel”. Hallelujah, but God is Humor!
FM

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GUCCI VAMOS A LA PLAYA

For Sabato De Sarno, creative director of Gucci, this translates into his great passion as well as his love of revisiting tailoring. Like what int now understands who doesn’t know what that is.

A pure hymn to summer days, there is no shortage of homages to the archives, from models inspired by iconic luggage to the evolution of the Horsebit shoe. Meetings, between the city and the beach, between people who love life, and those who don’t like this style.

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PRADA 2024 MILANO

Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons redefine new boundaries; the feminine prevailing over the masculine. These two designers who intellectualize fashion want us to believe that they have found an answer in these turbulent times: simplicity, joy and the human touch, but, when it comes to couture, it is already less brilliant. Continue reading

CHANEL AND AFTER VIARD

So here is a new page that is turning for Chanel, but does Haute Couture really have an importance in a luxury house since the 255 bag went from €200 to €9,500 in less than 20 years, bringing to the marks phenomenal internal growth without doing anything?

The choice could first have been Haider Ackermann because Chanel is not in Bogota, but, at the same time, also the young Jacquemus. However, the idea fell through very quickly, because how could he run a studio of small hands, he who knows neither how to draw nor sew himself. Continue reading

44 CHAMPS ELYSÉES

On Avenue des Champs-Élysées, Calvin Klein’s first global flagship will open. On Thursday night, a splashy, celebrity-filled opening party will take place at the 6,500 square foot, three-story space. The public is invited to visit on Friday.

A year ago, Calvin Klein took over No. 44, the former Netflix concept store that shuttered last summer. The opening coincides with Paris 2024’s Olympics and the expected 15 million-plus tourists, but the focus is on long-term premium positioning.

Making such an investment to sell t-shirts seems really weird to me.Calvin Klein’s first global flagship will open on 44 Avenue des Champs-Élysées for the Olympic game, maybe a good idea.

MAX MARA MADE CHINA ROAD

For Max Mara, it is Marco Polo, the Venetian merchant who traveled from Europe to Asia in the 13th century. This year marks the 700th anniversary of his death, and several exhibitions are being organized around the world, including one at the Palazzo Ducale, the Doge’s Palace, where Max Mara unveiled his collection on Tuesday evening a superb Gothic venue overlooking the lagoon. Continue reading

HERMÈS EAST SIDE STORY

The story was not over at Hermès, which is offering a new chapter to its fall-winter 2024-2025 collection, the first silhouettes of which showed at Paris Fashion Week last March. However, this time, a new wind has blown across the East Side; type of unblocking of the sitting for the clients of the little banker, inspired by the artistic director Nadège Vanhée.

In fashion, courage is so rare that they had to call in a historian. Thus, like a momentum, that of Antwerp propels the Hermès women in Milady with studded leather and in Harley-Davidson, who “ride” in the “Lower East Side” more precisely, passing from Park Avenue via the Eastern Parkway.

Hermès fall-winter is truly at a crossroads, what if the women of Hermès in Paris played tough? Those of New York appear more open than ever to the unknown, but the New York bourgeoisie is more unbridled, it is well known.

Palette of rich colors, from harsh blue, saffron yellow or roaring red, at the crossroads of new influences before our eyes, with dipped lamb materials for a marriage of skin and canvas offering a certain size to the jackets and jumpsuits, and thus distilling the idea of ​​confident femininity, finally! Because, after Jacquemus, I thought that the woman had disappeared. Continue reading

JACQUEMUS LIKE THE OTHERS

At Villa Malaparte, it is the story of a fashion designer who presents a collection that he did not create. If you go to Capri, usually, Capri is over, but here it continues. Villa Malaparte is an architectural work built between 1938 and 1943, on the side of a cliff on the edge of the Mediterranean Sea, east of Capri in Italy. I site for bimbos.

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