Since arriving at the helm of Saint-Laurent in 2016, Anthony Vaccarello has breathed new energy into the house, juggling Yves Saint Laurent’s legacy while propelling it into a sharpened modernity. The Belgian designer has imposed his vision: a sculptural, sensual and striking style, where every line and every cut seems to have been cut with a scalpel.

His Saint Laurent is a perfect balance between sharp glamour and radicalism. He doesn’t just evoke the audacity of the 70s, he reinvents it with structured minimalism and an almost insolent sensuality. The shoulders are strong, the legs endless, the black and fuchsia omnipresent, and each silhouette seems to defy convention with an electric, sober elegance – a real challenge!

Under her direction, the brand has become a manifesto of femininity, where seduction is worn like armour. Ball gowns mixed with leather Bomber jackets with meticulous cut-outs, he played with the shadow of thugs and the woman of Versailles under Louis XIV.

Purity and excess, rigour and audacity: the designer doesn’t copy Yves Saint Laurent, he extends him with a radical modernity, proving that audacity, when mastered, is timeless.

FM