This season, the theme that Maria Grazia Chiuri has chosen is to highlight the relationship between the body, clothing and performance on a scaffolding of claims, as usual, ancient Greece or ancient grace? There is the question.

Already in 2022, she showed Dior at the Panathenaic Stadium in Athens with dresses traditionally worn by the women of ancient Greece, against a backdrop of futuristic sneakers or “sneakers”; modernity requires for the business of the lord of Arnault.

The designer gradually stripped her high-end collections of embroidery and ornaments, at the risk of disappointing journalists, who, in any case, disappeared from the guest lists, and who came for Couture week in Paris to admiring frothy princess dresses with extravagant trains à la Elie Saab.

This season, she used swimsuits as the basis for her loosely draped goddess dresses, adding mosaic embroidery for a touch of evening glamour, and a nod to mosaic designer Faith Ringgold, who died last April. With her hair slicked back, for models, Chiuri is usually close to the heritage of founder Christian Dior. On the other hand, this time, there were hardly any nods to the archives of the master of Granville, but the collection was more reminiscent of the dresses of Madame Alix Grès.