In part, Valentino’s performance at the Beaux-Arts school with FKA Twigs was a response to violence against women in Italy, which has fueled public discourse that blames victims for attacks. “It’s important for women to be free to express themselves through their body and not to be judged,” Piccioli said during a preview at the brand’s headquarters on Place Vendôme.
In response to those seeking to police women’s bodies, what is his response? More skin. In a censor bar nudity manifesto, his models wore open-worked dresses over short skirts.
A raw linen cape featured sirens, a reference to the fantastical figures in Renaissance frescoes.
Oversized T-shirts, crisp white cotton poplin suit jackets and blanket-like sweater dresses put the accent on comfort. Fluid T-shirt dresses, cut out at the midriff or slit to the thigh, occupied a middle ground.
There was no coincidence that it was Valentino’s first dedicated women’s show since breaking away from the coed format. It was also the first since French luxury conglomerate Kering, a vocal advocate for women’s causes, acquired a 30 percent stake in the brand.