Van Noten’s absence of prints robbed the show of its usual visual strength, but it did highlight two things: his distinctive tailoring and his mastery of color. Van Noten favored fluid, lightweight and sometimes gossamer fabrics, putting his strong-shouldered jackets in shirt-quality fabrics that could be tucked into high-waisted pants.

An extra-long, narrow trench coat with square shoulders opened the Belgian designer’s show, reminiscent of the column silhouette that dominated the collection. Van Noten favored fluid, lightweight and sometimes gossamer fabrics, putting his strong-shouldered jackets in shirt-quality fabrics that could be tucked into high-waisted pants.

Unexpected color combinations paraded through an abandoned building, whose concrete bones served as the venue’s main decoration. The predominant colors were neutrals and spicy tones, juxtaposed with lilac, apricot, petrol blue, khaki, and lime. There was a quiet, almost dormant luxury fashion to the show.æ