In last season’s Saint Laurent Collection, Anthony Vaccarello drew inspiration from Paloma Picasso, whose theatrical sense of dress was said to have inspired Yves Saint Laurent and nudged his creativity out of bourgeois codes.

In fall, Vaccarello drew inspiration from shipping heiress Nancy Cunard, whose reed-thin body and stacks of ivory bracelets made her a style icon in the ’20s and ’30s. The designer explained that she “dressed audaciously ahead of her time by adding her own indelible stamp” to an otherwise masculine wardrobe.